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E-tek Restorations: PROJECT THREAD

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e-tek

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Here she goes! The 40 Ford gets modern EFI power - with looks to match -

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We changed the exhaust to these sweet Sanderson shorty headers to gain some much needed clearance at the steering linkage and it seems to have worked:

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Tomorrow the front and rear glass goes in and the engine gets wired.
 
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e-tek

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Well the glass guys came but they didn't leave themselves enough time, so I had them do the glass in my own car (the Z) rather than someone elses (the 40 Ford). They'll come back tomorrow when the have ample time to do the 40Ford without rushing.

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In the meantime, I continued on with the running gear, wiring and engine re-assembly on the '40:

Every time I replace a seal like the rear ****** seal, I think there's got to be a better way....but there still isn't..... ;)

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I always clean up the yoke when I replace a rear trans seal:

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A lot of wiring work still to be done. Prior to paint I had labelled most of it and had done up a schematic, but there's still a lot of final wiring to be done, including a lot of fine details and the removal of all the excess wiring not needed in this application.

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I removed paint from around the ECU mount studs to act as good grounding points:

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The painted and polished intake looks awesome in the engine bay!

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I wanted to get this shot of everything together but the polished name plate stole the show!

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Before quitting for the evening, I put the rear bumper on - what a rear end! :pimpflash

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More tomorrow!
 
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e-tek

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Back glass going in - lots of soapy water!

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The front, 2-piece windshield has this chrome centre piece which had a lot of rust on the backside. It took a good hour to clean, treat and paint as the last thing we need is some rust affecting the fit - or worse (?) the seal...

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Metal Ready, my favourite phosphoric acid solution was used to soak the metal inner piece. It should have gone all the way through and under the chrome outer section to stop any rust inside.

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After a few applications over a couple hours to allow it to work it's magic, I cleaned it off with pre-paint solvent and applied a few coats of Rust Paint.

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Finally, I gave it a good polishing and it was ready to rock -

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Unfortunately, with everything ready to go, the men here and the pieces ready, I misplaced the glass pieces!!:dunno::willy_nil Seriously.

So the guys left and I called the owner, to ask if he had actually dropped them off. Yes he did. A further, closer look and I found them - still wrapped in their plain brown paper, standing up against the parts washer - right next to all the other glass pieces. What an idiot!

Once I found them I made sure they fit. The guys will be back tomorrow to get er done....



Lots of wiring still to be done before the front - end goes together. Best to get all this done now rather than leaning over freshly painted fenders!

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During fitment the inner fenders took a bit of a beating, so everything was hammered straight, sanded, primed....

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...then painted Dupli-Color's trim black - the perfect hue for anything under the hood -

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I sprayed the opposite sides with Dupli-Color's Undercoating treatment, but we plan to use a bed-liner product in all the wheel wells once it's all assembled to add a true protective, sound-deadening layer.

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:beer:
 

DynoDave

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That bumper looks nice. And if you stripped/prepped/primed/blocked/painted that rounded trunk, and it came out that nice...you are the MAN! My neighbor built a '39 Plymouth coupe, and a '39 Chevy coupe, and he struggled with both of those deck lids.
 
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e-tek

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That bumper looks nice. And if you stripped/prepped/primed/blocked/painted that rounded trunk, and it came out that nice...you are the MAN! My neighbor built a '39 Plymouth coupe, and a '39 Chevy coupe, and he struggled with both of those deck lids.

Thanks Dave! Another shop welded some back-end parts in it 10+ years ago but they didn't fit up as they didn't have the hatch to match it. I welded in some metal to bring the lower lip out, aligned the hatch, made a mount for the latch and did a ton of blocking to even it all up. No one's happier than me that it turned out so good! :lol:
 

ddawg16

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The wiring for that motor should be easy. If it was anything like the TBI for my jeep....I ended up taking out more wires than what got added. For the most part, the engine should pretty much be it's own wiring system....bat, ign, start, brake....maybe a couple more...that is about it. Stupid simple once you really get into it.

I'm a fan of soldered connections as well....

One suggestion....double check those ground connections....especially on older cars where they depend on the body and chassis as the ground points.

BTW....and I know I'll get flamed by some of the guys....but I liked the other (lighter) blue on your Z better....
 

don long

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Unfortunately, with everything ready to go, the men here and the pieces ready, I misplaced the glass pieces!!:dunno::willy_nil Seriously.

So the guys left and I called the owner, to ask if he had actually dropped them off. Yes he did. A further, closer look and I found them - still wrapped in their plain brown paper, standing up against the parts washer - right next to all the other glass pieces. What an idiot!

Once I found them I made sure they fit. The guys will be back tomorrow to get er done....

Ed
I played that game all day today
Every time put down a part or tool I could not find it again
for several minutes. Just couldn't remember where I had layed it down.

The old ford is looking great.

(took a page out of your play book and changed my avatar)
Don
 

gipraw

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Looking good. Can't wait to see it with the glass all installed.



I played that game all day today
Every time put down a part or tool I could not find it again
for several minutes. Just couldn't remember where I had layed it down.

The old ford is looking great.

(took a page out of your play book and changed my avatar)
Don

I am horrible with that kind of thing. Partially explains why I have five and six of the same type tool.
 
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e-tek

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Robert - all the restoration/build threads are in Garage Gallery now. Mine was the only one in Free PArking, which may still not be long for this world (though you didn't hear that from me!)

ddawg - you could not be more right! ;) The basics were easy enough, but tracing, ID'ing and labelling all the other stuff took a while. Entire looms are dedicated to the AC systems, cruise control, WOT cutouts....

Don - you and I should work together some time - it might be FUN (or funny!!) Of course it's rather embarrassing when others are waiting on you...

And gipraw.....the front glass....is IN! :thumbup:


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And this time there was no wasted time - so I had them pull the Front and Rear glass from the 68 Camaro project as well:

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The Camaro has some odd clips holding the WS mouldings in place. Takes a couple special tools and some wishing for them to pop out...

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e-tek

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So glad you asked Simon - LOTS!

Chrome center piece and wiper towers add sparkle to the front end!

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Owner picked up an ECU tester which plugs into the available leads. Looked like a simple operation... (sorry for the blurry photos' - I gotta slow down)

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...until I saw the programming book!

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For all you solder and shrink-wrap fans!

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Time for some more house-cleaning. I SWEAR it didn't look like this when it left for paint!

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Sometimes I feel like I'm back in college.....

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After a lot of wiring, some power steering work and hooking up the heater hoses, as well as a coat of DC Trim Paint on the rad shrouding and the front end is nearly ready for re-assembly.

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e-tek

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When I did the 56 Chev I tried Eastwood's Chassis Black on the vent window frames and found it to be perfect: a hard-shell glass-like black, so it's now my go-to paint for items like this. As luck would have it, I have lots on hand, since Eastwood sent me a bunch and it looks like **** on frames....

So I threw together my "Instant" parts paint booth and put 4 good coats on it.

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After letting it bake overnight it was rock hard and ready for re-assembly:

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Of course the photo doesn't show the nearly hour-long struggle it took to just to get to this point! :willy_nil

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Next up was the vent seal on the window surrounds - which was much easier!

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The included rivets fit perfectly -

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One item that has been an issue since the 40 rolled into the E-tek compound ;) was the inner door latch rods. At first they just rode a bit on the inside of the doo rat the latch, but then they got worse when I had to install the window bars...

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It seemed a simple enough but there were 3 or 4 possible fixes and I was in no hurry to choose the wrong fix as I didn't want to compromise the strength of the door panel.

So I finally decided a hole near the latch - and running it on the outside - was the right fix:

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e-tek

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Also got some prep work done on the dash ahead of it's installation:

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The owner decided on the use of the round vent holes and it was definitely the right call:

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BLING!

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e-tek

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Eastwood reads that and they're not gonna send you any more ****! :lol_hitti

....that's OK Robert, they blew it with me when they had an issue with me being honest before. I told them I wouldn't editorialize if it wasn't warranted.
 
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e-tek

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Ed, Tell me what do you do when you have a project that needs Air Con gassed ? Can they do it on site for you ?

All happening in your workshop.

Yes, there are several on-sight shops that do that. I'll have them come out later to cut and crimp the lines, test and fill the system.
 

HOTFR8

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Yes, there are several on-sight shops that do that. I'll have them come out later to cut and crimp the lines, test and fill the system.

Interesting to know as here the regulations are being tightened although I queried how they do farm machinery for example as that is still done on site.
Many workshops here want the vehicle moved so they can do the work in their own premises.
 

signcrafter

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Looking good Etek.

Do you have anymore pictures of your "instant" paint booth? Just some Styrofoam made into a box? Any fans to pull overspray out?

Also you mentioned you let it bake overnight. In an oven or what did you mean by bake?
 
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e-tek

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Interesting to know as here the regulations are being tightened although I queried how they do farm machinery for example as that is still done on site.
Many workshops here want the vehicle moved so they can do the work in their own premises.

Regulation were tightened here too - but it was a while ago now (1990's) when they switched from R12 to R134. They tried to get everyone to "capture" old refrig, but few did - and the R134 leaked out on its own anyways! We can get fairly cheap DIY kits to recharge your own systems, but between crimping, cutting, parts, a flush and re-charge, someone else can do it! ;)
 
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e-tek

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Looking good Etek.

Do you have anymore pictures of your "instant" paint booth? Just some Styrofoam made into a box? Any fans to pull overspray out?

Also you mentioned you let it bake overnight. In an oven or what did you mean by bake?

If you look back in the thread, you'll see one of my "make-shift" booths explained in detail, using a 4" furnace duct fan that filters it through a Allergen media.

By "bake" I just meant I kept the ceramic heater running - which heats the little box up to about 200F and really seems to help flow and harden these paints.
 

HOTFR8

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DIY kits :eek:.

Regulation were tightened here too - but it was a while ago now (1990's) when they switched from R12 to R134. They tried to get everyone to "capture" old refrig, but few did - and the R134 leaked out on its own anyways! We can get fairly cheap DIY kits to recharge your own systems, but between crimping, cutting, parts, a flush and re-charge, someone else can do it! ;)

We went through the same changes here from R12 to R134. Although here I have never seen a DIY kit in fact you can not touch Air Con here unless you have the correct qualifications. In the process of getting my F4 Air Con sorted out yet again as it has lost the gas twice now. When working it blows ice.

Sorry to hijack the topic but I noticed an Air Con hose in I think the 40 Ford and I just had to ask.
 
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e-tek

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Continued working on the dash today....

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Some intricate trimming of the center chrome piece that was required:

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A broken glovebox locking tab had to be fabbed up:

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Vent openings installed:

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In between those items I cleaned and painted the rear glass runners prior to their installation:

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Prepped these window surround moldings I just found in the parts box - they should have been painted purple with the rest of the car!

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Engine looking much cleaner after wires on this side had been trimmed and re-routed. Pretty much ready for front end bolt up!

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signcrafter

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If you look back in the thread, you'll see one of my "make-shift" booths explained in detail, using a 4" furnace duct fan that filters it through a Allergen media.

By "bake" I just meant I kept the ceramic heater running - which heats the little box up to about 200F and really seems to help flow and harden these paints.

I'll go back and try and find that post. I was a little late to the party on this thread but now that I started reading it I come back everyday to check for updates!

That engine wiring turned out really nice and clean.

What are you using in your shot sprayer?
 
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e-tek

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I'll go back and try and find that post. I was a little late to the party on this thread but now that I started reading it I come back everyday to check for updates!

That engine wiring turned out really nice and clean.

What are you using in your shot sprayer?

Thanks man, much appreciated. The sprayer has a Wax and Grease remover, which I buy in bulk.

Those fiddly little pieces like for the glove box must be fun to fabricate. Nicely done.
I noticed the vents are the same I used in the F4 so they must be popular. What is the front end for the 40 ?

Those vents are the stock pieces from the Vintage Ari unit - likely a universally available after-market vent piece.

This:

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When I was looking for ^THAT^ photo I was getting confused by my own thread! So I CAN'T IMAGINE (!) what it's like for someone else looking through this thread! It's not that the thread jumps all over - but my life in the shop sure does. So when it looks like I'm rebuilding a flathead 8 with twin SU's and mating it up to a 3spd Ford trans, then stuffing it all in a Henry '27 shell (all while Mrs E-tek is spayed across a couple convertibles)...it just looks that way.....

I would have gotten MUCH more done today, but it was also time to rake up the 6" carpet of leaves blanketing the front yard.....

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e-tek

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HAHA! We JUST got curbside recycling!

Of course these are CITY trees and the wind comes from the West (to our side), so I get MORE than my share of leaves....PLUS the neighbors on BOTH sides are single, older females....so that's a LOT of their leaves too....

Oh well, all told, 5 kids came around this year asking if they can 'help' for $$, so I spread the work around a bit like that....otherwise it'd KILL me!
 
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e-tek

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The 40 Ford's onwer, Leonard, came out to lend a hand with the color-sanding process (speaking of which, I have no idea why it's even called "Color-sanding', as no color is sanded, only clear....and the major part of the process is buffing, not sanding)...

Tools of the trade...

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A newer tool in the process are these "Hook-it" (velcro-backed) sanding pads meant to attach to a Velcro backing disc in the DA or Palm-sander. They also work brilliantly on a rubber sanding block, or by hand.

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Leonard took one side, while I went down the other, first with 1000 on any bits of dirt, runs or heavy peel, then 1500 and finally 3000. Once the sanding was done, I followed up with the polisher -

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....while Leonard went on to some other items that required attention.

Such as attempting to fit a vent glass in it's frame (note the fender he had just completed in 3000 grit)

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Measuring out chrome strips to add a "deluxe" touch to the dash....

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...and attempting to place an order for some parts missing from the inventory (or so he said as I had my suspicion he was texting his sweetie...)

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Meanwhile, back at the polishing-party....

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Swirl-marks in the truck lid mean were about 3/4 the way done with this panel!

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Here's that fender from above - after a first pass with the full-cut compound -

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And here it is after a second cut and come clean-up -

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Reflections are a good gauge of how much cut is left to be done -

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After everything is sanded and cut to this point (still have to do the rest of the roof, front fenders and hood...) the wool pad is exchanged for one of 2 or 3 foam pads in order to do a final cut, a swirl remover and a filler. Total hours to color-sand? Between 25 and 30.....sometimes as high as 40! :willy_nil
 

Jtcrep

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E-tek,

Man you sure have a lot of things going on all at the same time. I just spent three days reading all 88 pages, and I gotta echo everyone else you do wonderful work and I want to thank you for taking the time to share. I learned a lot and look forward to hearing and seeing more.
 

Zeke

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The 40 Ford's onwer, Leonard, came out to lend a hand with the color-sanding process (speaking of which, I have no idea why it's even called "Color-sanding', as no color is sanded, only clear....and the major part of the process is buffing, not sanding)...

Because back in the day when nitrocellulose lacquer was used on customs it was done in stages. 10 coats and sand. 10 coats and sand. 10 more coats and sand. All the while the floor of the shop took on the color of the paint. But I think the real reason for calling color sanding was that you were sanding the color between coats.

We didn't have anything finer than 600 grit either. I know, walked to school in the snow up hill both ways. We had to take the 600 scratches out with rubbing compound followed by polishing compound. Then we used several coats of Blue Coral wax and finally a pure carnuba blend of pure wax, no abrasive action. Maintenance was often done with Maguires as that was the only decent cream wax available.

Today you can pick and choose. Then, Maguires made only one product and 3M made the best compounds. Original Blue Coral is an incredible product but very hard to use.
 
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e-tek

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E-tek,

Man you sure have a lot of things going on all at the same time. I just spent three days reading all 88 pages, and I gotta echo everyone else you do wonderful work and I want to thank you for taking the time to share. I learned a lot and look forward to hearing and seeing more.

THIS. Thank YOU for reading and taking the time to say it.

Because back in the day when nitrocellulose lacquer was used on customs it was done in stages. 10 coats and sand. 10 coats and sand. 10 more coats and sand. All the while the floor of the shop took on the color of the paint. But I think the real reason for calling color sanding was that you were sanding the color between coats.

We didn't have anything finer than 600 grit either. I know, walked to school in the snow up hill both ways. We had to take the 600 scratches out with rubbing compound followed by polishing compound.

I was just a kid when I saw that kind of work going on at my Dad's shop so I don't recall the details, but it makes total sense.

THANKS for the history lesson Zeke!! :beer:
 
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