To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Ever evolving garage plans...

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
So this all began almost 3 years ago as I was getting ready to close on my first home. The one thing the property lacked was a garage -- it had a huge barn and an equipment/woodshed that housed firewood, a 1980s vintage Ford 4600 tractor and a riding mower (both included in the sale)... but nowhere to park (or work on) cars. Bummer.

So I started dreaming big! I designed a gigantic carriage-house garage / apartment that would replace the equipment shed. Here’s the rundown:

  • 1 separately conditioned single-bay to house the project car I was in the process of restoring once it got done;
  • an oversize bay to contain the tractor and attachments;
  • a 3-bay wing to provide parking for two daily drivers plus a workshop where I could finish the project car;
  • An entertaining space / game room / man cave / guest apartment above the whole thing

It was going to look something like this (but with one more bay on the right):

CarriageHouse.jpg

Once we moved in, spring 2014, I was immediately overwhelmed… Since this was the first home I’d owned, I didn’t own any yard maintenance tools (besides the tractor and mower that came with the property). And the third time I went to mow the yard, the mower quit :-/ I had to get a trailer to haul the riding mower in for service and fetch in a rental mower to deal with grass that grew knee high waiting for the mower to be repaired, a weed whacker to trim around the edges of the pond where I couldn’t get in with the mower, a gas powered hedge trimmer to cut back the trees that were blocking the view of the road pulling out of the driveway, rakes, shovels, pruning shears, it didn’t stop!

Long story short: I dived into home ownership with a fully renovated, didn’t need a thing done house (win!) plus a huge barn in need of repair and 7.5 acres of land, lawn, pasture, trees and pond to take care of without the equipment, knowledge or experience to manage all of it (fail!). The first year was pretty rough...

As our first winter here came to a close and we went into spring again, I found I had a better handle on things. We’d bought a weekend retreat on a nearby lake, though, so a lot of our weekends were spent there that year. Keeping up with the yard took most of the daylight hours I wasn’t at work through the week. Not much time for other projects. And that was the summer I realised how much the dream garage would cost… project reclassified from “back burner” to “unrealistic fantasy”...

The following winter, sick of shoveling my truck out of the snow, I started thinking about a more modest garage -- a lot more modest. Just covered parking for two vehicles, at minimum cost and effort. Simple and utilitarian, and it could go in that problem spot at the edge of the property where we had a break in the tree line to restore the privacy of the lot. Something like this would work just fine:

1958901.jpg

I figured 5 or 10k would get the job done. Only one problem: the reason there’s a break in the tree line is that it’s a low lying spot on the infeed side of our pond. So it’s soft and marshy, and prone to flooding:

Flooding.jpg

So I called a concrete contractor and asked what a 24x24’ foot slab would cost. He informed me that you don’t just pour a slab of concrete to put a garage on; you need a foundation, with footings and all (I knew so little then…) 7k ought to do it, he said… I hadn’t even described the adverse site conditions yet! After I filled him in he said maybe $10k? There goes my budget… :eyecrazy:

So I called a local construction company that specializes in garages and had them come out and formally quote it. Maybe they could do better?... Nope! Quote came back at $13.5k :-( :wtf: I was going to have to DIY it after all…

So I spent a couple days tramping around in the marsh and woods coming up with ideas… reroute this little creek… dig up the driveway and install a larger culvert… bring in dirt to raise the grade… I don’t know what I’m doing, but maybe I can make this work… Then the wife stepped in.

After five minutes of listening to me describe everything I was planning to do she was like, “Good God, that’ll take you two years to get done! [she’s learnt by now that 95% of my time goes to keeping the yard tidy, and everything else gets slowly done in the time that’s left.] Can’t you put the garage somewhere else that won't take so much work?”

God bless her for that, because the number one reason I was trying to get the garage into that spot was because the gap in the ‘privacy fence’ tree line bothers her so much. So we went out and walked around and she pointed, “what about there?” and I had to reject each suggestion -- that’d be on top of the leach field for the septic system… sure, I could replace the equipment shed but then I’d have to build a new equipment shed somewhere… nope, too close to the bank of the pond… no, it’d be an eyesore there… wait, what?

She finally suggested putting it next to the house, in the one place I’d discounted from the get-go because I assumed she wouldn’t want to look out the window and see a garage (as opposed to grass and trees). She said she was fine with that, and it was a far more conducive location to try and build. Sold! :beer:

Part of the reason to relocate the garage was so that I could more reasonably tackle a DIY foundation job. Figuring out cost of materials, I realised I’d easily be saving enough to go from a 2-car to a 3-car garage and have room to work on that Fury that’s been languishing in the barn all this time! It wouldn’t cost a whole lot more to go to something like this:

GAR7305.jpg

One small problem… that’s ugly as hell. If it was going to sit right beside the house, I didn’t want it to look like a commercial storage rental building. It needed to be more aesthetically pleasing. So I went looking for other options. Bingo, this looks perfect:

1958094-29254-ARTWORK.jpg

Available in kit form from Menards for under 10k:

http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...r-garage-with-extra-gable/p-1444422402427.htm

If I DIY the foundation and slab and get the kit, I may be able to bring it in at 15k, which would be 50% over the original budget but would deliver so much more value. Parking… workshop… additional property value should we ever sell (maybe…) Worth it! Only one problem: I need to learn how to DIY the foundation and slab… :dunno:

Enter Garage Journal!
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
So I came across my first Garage Gallery build thread which went into lots of detail on preparing and pouring a foundation, laying concrete block for stem walls, and pouring a slab inside. From there I found more build threads talking about design considerations, shop layout plans and all sorts. I found threads about lifts, ceiling heights, roof truss design alternatives and all sorts of useful stuff.

So yes, GJ happened, and my plans changed… and evolved… and changed… and evolved… I’ll be bankrupt by the time I’m done! :shocking:

I started out thinking just 24’ x 24’ for a two-car daily driver basic shelter. Then I went to 36’ x 28’ for the basic three-car. Finally, to 35’ x 25’ for the more aesthetically pleasing one. The GJ. Now the sky’s the limit… :lol_hitti

I've gone around and around with designs and trying to meet my goals within my constraints and minimize the resulting conflicts... I'm going to have to compromise somewhere... :headscrat

Here's the rundown on what I'm trying to achieve:

Goal: 3 car garage for parking and vehicle restoration and maintenance.

Intended Use: parking for 2 daily drivers (2013 Chevy Silverado 1500 and 1998 Jaguar XJ8) plus a workshop for restoration of project vehicle (1968 Plymouth Fury Convertible) and general vehicle maintenance.

Design Goals:
  • 2-post lift for workshop bay -- maybe a MaxJax, though full height lift would be nice
  • 4-post storage lift later on
  • Bonus: room-in-attic with potential to finish out later

Design Constraints:
  • 10ft offset required from property line
  • 10-15ft desired between house and garage
  • Result: max width is probably between 35 and 40 feet (need to measure)
  • Aesthetically complimentary to existing property

Conflicts:
  • Desire for lifts argues for higher ceilings, meaning taller walls
  • Desire for room-in-attic argues for 1.5 storey construction, meaning taller walls
  • The higher the walls, the less the building will “fit in” next to the house...

The home is an 1870s farmhouse:

FarmHouse.jpg

There’s also a large barn:

BigOldBarn.jpg

You can see where the carriage house from the first post in the thread got its board-and-batten siding inspiration from... It would have been built between the barn and the house, nearer the barn, so it made sense to match the building style. Now the garage is going on the other side of the house, and up close to it, I don't think that makes as much sense. Vinyl siding or similar, as on the home's addition(s), is probably the way I'll go.

So, now I'm thinking 40' wide if I can manage it while respecting offsets and leaving enough (10-15') space between the house and garage, maybe 28' deep. As I said, width is constrained... but depth isn't, it could be 100s of feet deep if I wanted (and could afford it)!

Practically, 28' deep for the double parking bay seems fine; and the minor gable and bump-out on the third bay gives me the opportunity to make the workshop bay a bit deeper. I'd also have the option of extending it backward later, making it double depth if I ever needed to. There's also plenty of room behind the garage for additional 'vehicle storage' to be constructed.

I know from experience my truck barely scrapes through a 9' wide door, so I'm thinking either two 10's or one 18' for the parking bays, with a 10x8 or 10x10 for the workshop bay (undecided yet if I'm OK with the workshop bay's door being taller than the parking door(s).

I think the roofing on the house and barn is around 4:12 or 6:12 (need to measure) so I'd probably want to match that on the garage -- at least for the forward facing minor gable. Would a 12:12 pitch for the main gable be a noticeable mismatch? Not sure... Trouble is, a 4: or 6: pitch doesn't achieve the room-in-attic goal. So... build a 1.5 story structure? Those exterior walls are going to be awful tall... Especially with ceiling height raised to 12' to accommodate the lifts...

Sorry, light on pictures for this entry, but feedback never-the-less gratefully received!
 

Oggy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
1,295
Location
Central New York
Subscribed, sounds like you (and your wife) put a lot of thought into this!

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
Final build intro post...

Since I'm DIYing the whole deal, I've been thinking about tools and equipment. I have a compressor and various pneumatic nailers (from a framing nailer down to brad and staple guns; no roofing nailer though); circ saw and mitre saw (just upgraded from a cheapie HF unit to a nice DeWalt with portable stand); and various miscellaneous hand tools and such. But what about the big stuff, and the specialty tools?

First of the big stuff is, of course, the tractor that came with the house (my wife's genius idea to request it!) As mentioned above, it's a Ford 4600, and it came with bushhog and rear grader blade attachments plus a front loader mounted:

Ford4600.jpg

That'll help with the basic surface excavation and grading work, but it's not much help for trenching for footings, utility hookups, etc. A backhoe would be great, but I can't afford to get one... :eyecrazy: Aside from trenching for the garage build, I have lots of other projects around here that I could use having an excavator for (includig digging out a tree stump or two for the garage build), so I'm thinking about picking up one of these:

image_25451.jpg

OK, it's a Harbor Freight unit, but the price isn't bad for what it is (especially if I can get them to take a 25% off coupon on it!).

Next most expensive thing I really could do with having is a concrete/mortar mixer; I'm watching Craigslist for one at a reasonable price. For the foundation and slab I'll probably order ready mixed, but I owe my wife a greenhouse and concrete patio and there are bound to be things like a landing pad for the man door. Most importantly, though, mortar for the block stem walls and grout to fill the block.

Next up, I'm not that strong and I'll be working mostly alone. Need something to help wrangle those sheet goods... Like one of these:

image_20361.jpg

From HF again, but I can likely find one cheap on CL, maybe from a better quality manufacturer. I see that as necessary equipment for putting up a ceiling solo, and I suspect it'll come in handy for lots of other things too.

I'm also thinking about raising walls alone. The tractor / FEL will probably be helpful, especially if I get creative with rigging and custom-built gantries? But maybe I'll need some wall jacks? Getting them upright is one thing, though; getting them up over the j-bolts is the bit that worries me...

And raising trusses alone? Maybe I just need to rent a telecaster for a day for that? Not sure...

Managing building wrap solo? Eh, I'm sure I can improvise there!

What else should I be thinking rent vs. buy? What else would you want if you planned on doing most / all of the work by yourself?
 

bgarrett

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
4,393
35'?? Consider making the garage using standard length boards. I know a guy who decided on a 15' porch and learned that he would have to cut off a foot of every 16' board and throw it away
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
35'?? Consider making the garage using standard length boards. I know a guy who decided on a 15' porch and learned that he would have to cut off a foot of every 16' board and throw it away

Totally agree; in practice I'd go 36' rather than 35'. Final size will be determined once I clear the area (currently covered in felled tree debris) and take proper measurements!
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
When I first started thinking about building a garage myself I had no construction experience (still don't actually) and knew about nothing about it. I watched lots of YouTube, read a lot, and learned about post-and-frame, balloon framing and of course stick framing. We heat with an electric heat pump (painful when it gets really cold out!) so no LP/NG available. So I want the garage to be an efficient structure so I can heat it effectively in winter when I'm working out there.

H260_cover1000x1254.jpg


Since I want a tight envelope and good insulation, I'm going to go with stick framing using 2x6s @ 24oc. I read an article in Fine Homebuilding magazine that talked about bringing back some balloon framing techniques in a stick built structure. Their claim is that a double 2x4 wall with 12" top and bottom plate gives higher R-value for less cost than a 2x6 wall. I haven't costed it, but I don't buy it... 2x6 @ 24oc is meant to cost close to what 2x4 @ 16oc costs, so doubling the number of framing members has to add up! I'm also not comfortable with the balloon framed, ceiling hung on ledger boards technique they describe (especially since building inspectors are often unfamiliar and/or uncomfortable with it.

So I'm sticking with 2x6 walls, but I plan to make full use of "advanced framing" practices where I can. California corners all the way baby! But maybe not single top plate... apparently that's problematic, though I don't quite understand what this guy's issue with it is? :wtf:

That's the first decision out of the way (yay me). Next question: what size headers to I need for my garage doors? I'll have to finalize their size, then I'm hoping I can just walk into Menards or one of the other big box stores and ask what I need? Would be nice to know going in though, so I need to find appropriate span tables for whatever engineered lumber product makes most sense. Do I want LVLs, GLU LAM beams, or maybe sistered I-joists filled with insulation for best thermal efficiency? I'd appreciate any advice the GJ can offer here... :headscrat I do know I'm not gonna just go with 2x headers at least! :)

Next thing is roof framing. I'll get to that in another post...
 

sean Buick 76

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2013
Messages
3,221
Location
Edmonton Alberta
Have you considered doing something like this with a taller center bay and lower walls on each side? This is my plan.
 

Attachments

  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    18.3 KB · Views: 135
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
Oh, and since I just know someone is going to ask, I thought I'd throw up some info and pics of the Fury project :)

Coming off the trailer after I bought it:
IMG_0038.jpg

A couple of it being worked on at my old place, before it got moth-balled in the barn when I bought this place:
IMG_0039.jpg
IMG_0041.jpg

As mentioned before, it's a 1968 Plymouth Fury III Convertible. There were apparently only about 4.5k of them made in '68, making it the third least common variant for that year (and relativley rare when you consider they made almost 400,000 across all model variants in '68). As you can see in the pictures, it's already in primer. The guy I bought it from had done quite a bit of work on the car by the time he sold it to me. He's a welder by trade, so he'd cut out all the rust and replaced with new metal.

He also rebuilt the brakes, ran new brake and fuel lines, replaced all the suspension bushings and body mounts, and redid the motor -- it has maybe $3k in after-market parts on it (and most of the original parts are stashed in the trunk :)) New crank bearings and seals, new piston rings, rest of the long block is factory. From the deck up, it's all new. Mostly Edelbrock parts with Comp cams and a Holly 750. MSD electronic ignition and electric choke conversion. Dual exhausts dumping out under the floor (need to change that) through a pair of glass-pack mufflers. The thing is loud! And of course the engine is dressed with billet and chrome accessories.

Basically all it needs is paint and interior, but I have plans for a bit more than that... Shaved door handles / locks, conversion to '71 side marker lights, exhaust exiting through the 1/4 panels just ahead of the rear wheels, electric windows all around, keyless ignition and remote start, battery relocate to the trunk and engine bay cleaned up with as much hidden as possible, bumpers smoothed... Once all that's done and it's in paint I'll tackle the interior. Then it'll get lowered a bit, and get a disk brake conversion. :rocker:

That's a lot to do. Now you know why I'm really building a garage...! :beer:
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
Have you considered doing something like this with a taller center bay and lower walls on each side? This is my plan.

I don't need a door that tall, but I did consider having the gabel end on the front. Making the roof span the width instead of the depth may help get me my room in attic, and it'd be nice for snow to shed away from the driveway. But for how I see using the space, I think what I'm aiming for suits me better.

I did think about putting the 'minor gable' in the middle instead of on one end. Aesthetically I like it, but I don't think it'd serve my use as well.

Now I want to sketch a few models with your roof orientation, just to confirm I prefer my plan :bounce:
 

sean Buick 76

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2013
Messages
3,221
Location
Edmonton Alberta
No worries, just tossing out an idea... Super cool car you sure scored on that one in my books!!! Good call on getting rid of the dumped exhaust and glasspacks.... Look into magnaflow for a good sounding muffler that is both mean and no drone or reverberation.
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
No worries, just tossing out an idea... Super cool car you sure scored on that one in my books!!! Good call on getting rid of the dumped exhaust and glasspacks.... Look into magnaflow for a good sounding muffler that is both mean and no drone or reverberation.

Cool car, hard work done, and bought for a steal!! I'll never tell what I paid! :bowdown:

A little bit of reassembly and I could put the car on the road as is... if I did that, sorting the exhast would be the top priority. It needs not to deafen me, but more importaintly I'd like it not to suffocate me if I get stuck in traffic :D
 

sean Buick 76

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2013
Messages
3,221
Location
Edmonton Alberta
I was lucky like you, bought a car for pennies on the dollar with all the hard work done.... I also need to route the exhaust out to the back of my car one of these days....
 

Attachments

  • 4.jpg
    4.jpg
    44.9 KB · Views: 79
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
I was lucky like you, bought a car for pennies on the dollar with all the hard work done.... I also need to route the exhaust out to the back of my car one of these days....

I was beyond lucky with this car; I was looking for a project that was all original but rust free, since welding isn't in my skill set yet. Pennies on the dollar about captures what I found too :)
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
Sorry Endmout, I missed your query; the answer is that plans have changed, grown more ambitious, gotten out of hand, been rained in, and essentially ended up back where we started. Felled trees and other distractions have me a year behind schedule, but some financial good fortune should allow me to get a jump start on the reboot.

Current plan is to sub out foundation and slab (at a cost probably 3x my original budget for the whole garage :-/) and then start the build from there. Goal: 3 car garage/shop with capacity to to enlarge the shop section in the future.

My awesome wife has given me carte blanche. I could build a simple garage and a separate shop of any size, or a nicer garage with integrated shop that fits beside the house... but can be as deep as I want. In terms of depth, I have plenty of room... does 20' wide by 800' deep for the workshop wing sound silly? :)

L.
 

Ajustable

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2014
Messages
153
Location
Niagara
This is a great way to start out a build thread! You have me hooked for updates. Since you have the depth of property for almost any size you want, I would think a gable entry style garage, would give you the best options for the future. That and you could blend the style well to suit the house. Good luck with the decisions.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
Since this *is* an ever evolving plan, the wife has now floated the idea of shifting the garage/shop back so it sits behind the house, rather than next to it. I'm not 100% sold on that idea yet, but what I like about it is:

  • The side of the house facing the garage has a couple of windows that would admit less light with the garage placed along side; moving the garage back would fix that.
  • It'd replace my view from my office of the neighbouring commercial property with a view of the new garage; I think I like that better :)
  • Most significantly, the new location is level ground; up by the house I'd be dealing with a significant falloff in grade at the front right corner of the structure.

The biggest downsides are a longer walk from the house to the garage (i.e. less convenience for parking); and the added cost of additional new driveway to get back to the garage in that location.

I'll be doing gravel driveway (to match what's existing) so the additional cost would be less than if I needed to get concrete or asphalt laid, but still...

Hmm, it also occurs to me it may resolve a conflict with an easement along that property line that I've been meaning to double-check!

Laurie
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
Additional pros of setting the garage further back: I wouldn't be constrained on width; and I could throw a carport / lean-to on the back to put the boat / RV under... Played with some ideas tonight and came up with this possibility:

side-load-1.jpg

Here's the general floor plan:

side-load-5.jpg

And a view from the side-load workshop end:

side-load-3.jpg

I'm liking it so far...

Laurie
 

Attachments

  • side-load-2.jpg
    side-load-2.jpg
    10.7 KB · Views: 68
Last edited:
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
Downvote from the wife; she doesn't like the amount of hardscaping it'd take to have an apron / driveway connection to the side-load door. She has a point, so I made a revision. I moved the workshop door to the front wall and added an initial sketch of the gravel driveway plan:

side-load-4.jpg

Also tried to update the floor plan in the previous post with a more readable version bui no luck. Looks like attachments get automatically resized, so I'll have to get image hosting set up somewhere to fix that.

Laurie
 
Last edited:
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
So this design is at 64' wide, basically a 32'W x 26'D workshop on the side of a 32'W x 28'D two car garage for parking. 16' x 8' door on the workshop side, man door and two 10' x 8' doors on the parking side.

Plan is to have the two halves walled off, heat and A/C in the workshop side and the parking side unconditioned. Entering through the man door there would be stairs to the attic in front, insulated door to the workshop to the the left, open into the parking side to the right.

Why is the parking side bigger than the workshop side? For architectural aesthetics to better match the house; I want the front wall on that half bumped forward. But that adds depth to the half of the building that doesn't need it instead of the half that could use it...

So... Should I bump that wall out more, so I can have a room off the workshop in back of the parking area? It could be a "dirty room" for a mill, lathe, and other messy metal working tools that I don't own but, since joining the GJ, have started wanting to get...

Don't give me the standard "you'll never regret going bigger!" response; I started with a goal of parking two cars out of the weather on a budget of 10k so I already went bigger!

Laurie
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
:eyecrazy:"For architectural aesthetics (...) But that adds depth to the half of the building that doesn't need it instead of the half that could use it..."

Yeah, so I started laying it out in SketchUp... Moved the bump-out forward to create the "machine shop" room in back of the parking section... And wasn't feeling it at all.

Then I got the patio furniture out of storage and set up and spent some time sitting on the deck at the back of the house, just looking at where the garage will go. And realizing how much of that corner of the yard it would take up... And then I had an epiphany :eyecrazy:

So the latest evolution spins the garage 90*, eliminates the "bump-out" to greatly simplify the roof framing (and foundation) plan, and gives me better space distribution I think. Here's what I think I'm going with; this is at 30' x 58', still need to settle on final dimensions:

garage-simplified.jpg

When I start thinking about how I might lay out the workshop, this footprint seems to work better. The blocky boat-looking thing in this render represents the Fury / future project vehicles; I currently own nothing else pictured :) I'll be getting a lift for sure, currently leaning back towards a 4-post with caster kit or maybe a single-post since I don't want to commit to a permanently located 2-post.

inside.jpg

Enough analysis paralysis, fetch me a shovel already!... :lol_hitti
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
Not sure if anyone's still following along, but the plan has only evolved mildly since I posted last... Went to 36' wide with a man door, an 18x8 and an 8x8 in the gable end to provide parking for three cars instead of just two.

I also reworked the stairs to the attic, and am trying to decide what to do with the space under the stairs. I'm thinking utility closets for a boiler / water heater for radiant heat (and the PEX manifold and pumps and such), and one for the compressor to reduce the noise... Then maybe closed shelving for storage for the rest? Not sure...

Currently investigating monolithic foundations (as opposed to footing + block) to eliminate the 'curb' wall so cabinets, tool boxes and other stuff along the walls can actually be against the wall, not 2" off it... :headscrat

Pretty sure I'm finalized on footprint and positioning. Roughly laid it out in the yard and discovered there's another tree in the way... :mad: That needs to come out, along with I think three of the stumps left after last year's tree clean-up fiasco. Sigh.
 

65cayne

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 26, 2010
Messages
216
Location
Oklahoma
24x24 design changed to..
64' wide with 32'W x 26'D workshop on the side of a 32'W x 28'D two car garage changed to ...
30x58 changed to ...
36x58 changed to....

Yes, yes this is going in the right direction
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
I still haven't found a good drafting tool for drawing 2D plans, but I did figure out how to get Sketchup to render dimensions at a more readable size. Now I'm pretty final on size and layout, here's a couple of views showing the proposed building and also a first pass at apron and driveway layout.

Building will be 36' x 56'; parking section will have 18' x 8' and 8' x 8' doors an interior (usable) depth of just over 21' (dimension shown is without drywall, which I probably wont put up on this side).

Not drawn in, but the narrow section in the middle is for stairs to the attic; haven't finalized stair placement and wall framing here; the parking side will have a full wall and door but I may make the area under the stairs open to the workshop side for extra storage / shelving / workbench space.

Apron is 20' deep on two sides, connected to a 12' driveway. The apron and driveway will all be gravel, with a small ramp section of poured concrete to transition from the slab to the gravel at the doors, I guess.

plan - building.jpg

plan - with drive.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
No pictures, but today I pulled my zoning permit, got my building and electrical permit application put together, and called 811 to have utilities marked. I can legally begin excavation as of late Friday afternoon.

Which means I'd better either rent or buy an excavator, since none of the local concrete contractors is returning phone calls right now... :eyecrazy:
 

ChevyEFI

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
8,699
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I like how you methodically developed the best location plans as a team. I am paying attention for tips.
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
I like how you methodically developed the best location plans as a team. I am paying attention for tips.

Thanks. Everything's a compromise, though; I have to clear a 30' easement along the edge of my property, which pushes the building over more than I'd like, which means I need to get a surveyor out to accurately mark the property line to get as close to that boundary as I possibly can...

Here's the plot plan showing what I'm talking about:

Proposed Site Plan.jpg
 

Riley

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Messages
398
Sorry for tossing this out there at this late-ish date; but why doesn't the west side towards the pole shed and barn work?

Seems to me you'd be saving the extra drive and keeping the mechanical elements in the same general location rather than bracketing the house with them?

Depending on the current entry to the shed and barn it looks like you could just about put it on the property center-line, kind of block the view to the shed, and not encroach much on the yard.

You've probably reviewed this option already and I'm curious to the reasoning for the current NE side of the house.

Thanks!
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
Sorry for tossing this out there at this late-ish date; but why doesn't the west side towards the pole shed and barn work?

Seems to me you'd be saving the extra drive and keeping the mechanical elements in the same general location rather than bracketing the house with them?

Depending on the current entry to the shed and barn it looks like you could just about put it on the property center-line, kind of block the view to the shed, and not encroach much on the yard.

You've probably reviewed this option already and I'm curious to the reasoning for the current NE side of the house.

Thanks!

My original plan was to replace the pole shed with a huge carriage house / garage / guest house. What the site plan doesn't show is all the trees and other vegetation we have... :lol: We definitely considered the location you're suggesting, and it does make sense in some ways, but my wife doesn't like the idea of parking being that far from the house. It may not look like a big difference on the drawing, but it's quite a bit in fact...
 

Riley

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Messages
398
That makes perfect sense.

As they say "If Mom's not happy, no body's happy."

Looking forward to following along.
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
Last week I called about a half a dozen land survey companies looking for quotes to get the easement I have to allow for accurately marked. They all promised to call me back with a quote but a week later none have...

After calling for utilities to be marked, I ended up with just one flag, planted in the middle of the side yard on the wrong side of the house, telling me that AT&T have nothing buried there... :dunno: And nothing else. :(

On the plus side, a number of concrete contractors picked up their phones and I've had a parade of them coming out to look at the site. Four have been out so far, some said they'd put together a proposal without coming on site first, and one even called to confirm my email address so they could send me their proposal. That was on Monday, they never sent anything, and haven't responded to voice message and email follow-ups. :willy_nil

I asked a question about the structural integrity of my design, and it would seem I need to get a structural engineer involved to ensure I have adequate shear strength in my gable end wall with door openings. Yet another set of sub contractors to coordinate... :scared:

How do GCs do it?? :bounce:

Tonight I tweaked on my shop layout some more. I decided that I'm not going to put in a bathroom, or try to include provisions for a bathroom in the future. Existing septic is too far away to hook up to without an effluent pump, and I know it's a minimally sized system, so I may well be required to install a separate one. Not going to take on the cost or complexity at this time!

So I ripped the bathroom out of the shop model. Below is a pic of what I'm thinking. The blast cabinet, machine tools, metal cabinets and lift are all things I want to get down the line; the lift and metal cabinets will be acquired during the build, the rest sometime in the future.

I'm still torn between a two-post vs. a movable single column lift. I think a fixed two post is just going to be in the way more often than it's worth. I just modified the framing enclosing the stairs to better accomodate the two post, and I'm not sure I still have enough enclosed space under the stairs to use as a utility closet for my 60gal compressor, a water heater/boiler, radiant manifold and pumps, etc.

And I still have to decide where to put a utility sink at. I'm thinking between the door and bench.

Anyway, too many words; here's the layout:

garage rough layout.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
I've been neglecting this thread... :eek: Time for an update.

First, I got a notice that my building permit has been approved and is ready to be picked up (and paid for! but ~$330 is less than I was expecting, for a total of ~$430 in permitting fees for the project with zoning). :rocker:

Second, I can see from the thread stats that lots of people are reading, but I don't get many answers to questions here so I've been starting separate threads elsewhere on the board to seek advice. Since this thread is meant to be a journal of sorts for my own reference in the future, and for any who are following along to learn for their own future projects, I thought I'd gather a list of links to some of those other threads here:



Final update item: I've called at least half a dozen concrete contractors that have promised to supply estimates, four of whom have come out for a site inspection and promised I'd have a proposal from them within a few days, and one of which called to confirm my email address so they could send me their proposal. Two weeks later and no proposals in hand.

If I don't have an acceptable estimate and scheduled start date by the end of the month I'm giving up on the pros and renting the equipment to do it myself.

One way or the other, we're breaking ground in August. Otherwise, the speed this project has been moving, I'll be dried in by the time I retire...! :willy_nil
 
OP
L

laurie71

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
181
Location
Centerville, Ohio, USA
It's happening... equipment is on site, things are getting dug up, this build is getting started!

So it took a while to get a contractor lined up, I nearly gave up and rented the equipment to build the foundation myself, but patience paid off. Today I have a two man crew on site doing the initial site prep, moving stacked wood from the trees I had cut down over a year ago, pulling out a huge bush in the middle of where the slab will be, and generally getting everything ready.

We have a lot of rain coming later today (Monday) and tomorrow, so the major excavation wont happen until Wednesday. Never the less, I think it would be fair to say that ground will be broken today. It's already getting scarred...

I posted pictures earlier in the thread of the massive downed tree that was in the way. Over the weekend I got that cut up into more manageable sized pieces that can be dragged out of the way with the excavation equipment that's going to be brought on site:

IMG_0139.jpg

There was also a large brush pile I had to get rid of. It took a total of three burns, and one session with a hose to put my house out when a window sill caught fire, to get that taken care of:

IMG_0127.jpg
IMG_0132.jpg

Yes, I said I had to put my house out. That slash pile has been stacked up there for 6 months, made of tree debris that's been on the ground for a year and a half. It was very dry, and burned very hot. Enough so that a window sill that's rotted and in need of replacement is now just a bit more in need of replacement:

IMG_0134.jpg

After getting that under control, and re-stacking the brush pile a couple of times, I got things tidied up pretty nicely:

IMG_0140.jpg

And here comes the crew to get site prep under way:

IMG_0142.jpg

One other bit of prep I took care of over the weekend: the sump pump in the cellar of the house dumps out into a hole in the front lawn :-/ The water drains away across the front yard, making the ground very soft where the concrete and building material delivery trucks will need to come through. Some temporary drain pipe should help alleviate that problem:

IMG_0144.jpg

More to come!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom