If you have removed the bottom plug sure, I always install from the top, it's beveled to allow it to be installed from the top.
Hein Werner OS
- Thread starter Elroy
- Start date
If you have removed the bottom plug sure, I always install from the top, it's beveled to allow it to be installed from the top.
Roberts210
Well-known member
Sorry to be asking so many questions, but this H-W jack is more complicated than the green Sears jack I rebuilt for my buddy a few months ago.
Roberts210
Well-known member
Any idea where this small, thick gasket goes? Trouble is I disassembled this jack 2 months ago and then got sick with the flu and the Siberian body rot and a couple of other maladies, and am just now trying to get it back together. You can't see it very well, but the black thing below the gasket is a penny to give an idea of size.
Any idea where this small, thick gasket goes? Trouble is I disassembled this jack 2 months ago and then got sick with the flu and the Siberian body rot and a couple of other maladies, and am just now trying to get it back together. You can't see it very well, but the black thing below the gasket is a penny to give an idea of size.
That is the Packing I referenced earlier that resides inside the release mechanism.
Roberts210
Well-known member
Do you think I should take the release mechanism apart and install it?
I always do, with that said I've never seen one leak at the top end because of the seal. If you do take it apart, be gentle with removing the gear, it's splined and held on with the nut, be even more careful when reinstalling the gear as you need to hold the gear stationary while buttoning things up. It's easy to bend a tooth and occasionally break one off.
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Roberts210
Well-known member
I put the ram in, and this is how I compressed the cup first:
I bought coupler fitting from a hardware store--it looks sort of like a piston ring compressor. Cost $7.
Here's a picture from a hardware store website:
And when I used it, I pulled out the rubber piece and just put the compressor over the cup that I had installed onto the ram and compressed it for 10 minutes. I loosened the compressor and the ram went into the pipe pretty easily.
Here I've got the old cup sitting in the compressor just to show you how I used it:
I bought coupler fitting from a hardware store--it looks sort of like a piston ring compressor. Cost $7.
Here's a picture from a hardware store website:
And when I used it, I pulled out the rubber piece and just put the compressor over the cup that I had installed onto the ram and compressed it for 10 minutes. I loosened the compressor and the ram went into the pipe pretty easily.
Here I've got the old cup sitting in the compressor just to show you how I used it:
Roberts210
Well-known member
By the way, how do I get fluid into the tank?
Roberts210
Well-known member
Ok, I've got the power unit rebuilt. Only thing is I am not sure the best way to put fluid in it now. Any ideas?
Ok, I've got the power unit rebuilt. Only thing is I am not sure the best way to put fluid in it now. Any ideas?
The fill hole is on the back side of the block, it's a standard drive round head screw. I can't recall the exact ounces, I've posted it a half dozen times here if you do some searching. I like to fill these units with the release mechanism off, this allows oil to flow more easily versus having 2 way traffic on a 1 way street.
Roberts210
Well-known member
Thanks Hiball. I"ll search out the exact ounces. Thanks for your reply.
Roberts210
Well-known member
This came from page 8 of this thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18055&page=8
Roberts210
Well-known member
Does this, from that thread, sound accurate?
After filling the reservoir as much as you can, set the jack back down and block the rear caster up on 2 x 4. Walk away for 24 hours and let all the excess oil run out. The 2 x 4 just places the fill port slightly high. Install the plug and you should be full. You'll know if you have too much oil if the ram won't park full down and too little oil will prevent the ram from reaching full extension.
After filling the reservoir as much as you can, set the jack back down and block the rear caster up on 2 x 4. Walk away for 24 hours and let all the excess oil run out. The 2 x 4 just places the fill port slightly high. Install the plug and you should be full. You'll know if you have too much oil if the ram won't park full down and too little oil will prevent the ram from reaching full extension.
Don't overthink it, 8 ounces is factory spec, not enough oil will prevent full extension and ingestion of air, too much oil will cause poor performance and if oil was added while the ram was extended it could obviously prevent the ram from retracting fully.
Roberts210
Well-known member
OK, got the unit filled with 8 oz of trans fluid. I poured 4 oz into that glass and marked a line on the glass. Poured it into the unit, refilled the glass and poured in again. 8 oz total.
I put everything back together, rolled it out and jacked up SWMBO's Ford Escape.
Yes, that's a LEAK under the power unit! So I pulled the jack out, turned it over and found I hadn't tightened the bottom plug. I tightened it back up, rolled it under the car and... it still leaked when jacking, but not nearly as much. Upon pulling the plug I discovered I'd installed an o-ring onto the plug--that was a mistake. I removed the o-ring, re-installed the plug, put another 1/2 oz of fluid into the unit and jacked the Ford up again. NO leaking.
I put everything back together, rolled it out and jacked up SWMBO's Ford Escape.
Yes, that's a LEAK under the power unit! So I pulled the jack out, turned it over and found I hadn't tightened the bottom plug. I tightened it back up, rolled it under the car and... it still leaked when jacking, but not nearly as much. Upon pulling the plug I discovered I'd installed an o-ring onto the plug--that was a mistake. I removed the o-ring, re-installed the plug, put another 1/2 oz of fluid into the unit and jacked the Ford up again. NO leaking.
Roberts210
Well-known member
And a huge THANK YOU to Hiball. I'd never have done this on my own.
Roberts210
Well-known member
Question. Once the jack is under load--that is once a car is jacked up, the pressure is on the steel valves, and not on the leather cup. Correct? In other words, the leather cup is only under pressure while the jack is being pumped. is this correct?
When under load, there is Pressure against the Upper Ball/Main Ram Piston seal/Overload ball/release. The pump piston only transfers oil from the reservoir ---> the valve system ---> Into the Cylinder, Once the pump piston has done its job the upper ball/seat prevents pressurized oil from back feeding into the valve system. Of course that is assuming there is a good contact between the ball/seat.
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Roberts210
Well-known member
That's what I thought, but I couldn't say it right. Thanks Hiball.
Walker OS
Found this on fleabay. Walker OS, how many of these are left?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walker-Auto...:g:ibMAAOSwAYtWPij1&item=111958053536&vxp=mtr
Found this on fleabay. Walker OS, how many of these are left?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walker-Auto...:g:ibMAAOSwAYtWPij1&item=111958053536&vxp=mtr
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paulsomlo
Well-known member
Re: Walker OS
Judging from the price, I'd say the owner thinks his is the last one. Wait until the listing expires, then offer him $40. And that's only if it works.
I don't need another jack around here myself, can't walk around in my garage now...lol
Just posted it to show others as surely not many Hein Werners were made with a Walker name on them.
I'm guessing it would have been one of the last of the original HW jacks made just before they trashed this original HW design and went with the superior Walker/Lincoln design still made today.
But' yes he must think it is the last mohican.
Several fleabayers think that way..
Look at this dudes deal of the day... Milwaukee 20 $487.44 ... lmao
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professiona...on-Model-20-Floor-Jack-Service-/291755058732?
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Just posted it to show others as surely not many Hein Werners were made with a Walker name on them.
I'm guessing it would have been one of the last of the original HW jacks made just before they trashed this original HW design and went with the superior Walker/Lincoln design still made today.
But' yes he must think it is the last mohican.
Several fleabayers think that way..
Look at this dudes deal of the day... Milwaukee 20 $487.44 ... lmao
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professiona...on-Model-20-Floor-Jack-Service-/291755058732?
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Roberts210
Well-known member
The Milwaukee Model 20 floor jacks are outstanding jacks, but more importantly parts are still available for them through Milwaukee Hydraulics. They are still proudly made in the U.S.A. But you can alllllmost buy a brand new one for the B.I.N. price he's asking. And if you buy a new one you won't have to deal with the stripped release screw he mentions in the auction. He also neglected to get new decals for that jack, which he could have gotten for free by calling Milwaukee Hydraulics. I have the exact same model... got it at a garage sale in 1993 for $10. True story.
Roberts210
Well-known member
123go, I bought it at a garage sale and had no idea how nice a jack it was. It came without a handle and one of the rear, pivoting wheels was missing. Later that day I went back to the garage sale and asked the guy if he had the handle. He was not a very nice specimen of humanity, but did go into his garage and come out with the handle. I used it without the rear wheel for 22 years until last summer when I found a used one at Voris Hydraulics--they are a Milwaukee certified rebuilder. I got the wheel for $35.
Currentlly Working on my early 70's WS
That pointy sealing needle was loose My guess it should be tight to operate proper Would it be adviseable to use a tad of Locktite on the treads ?
Currentlly Working on my early 70's WSIs there supposed to be an o-ring or gasket to go between the release valve and the unit itself? My kit didn't have anything that size.
That pointy sealing needle was loose My guess it should be tight to operate proper Would it be adviseable to use a tad of Locktite on the treads ?
No.. the needle needs to move up and down via the threads to seat and unseat the release valve.
bubinga
Well-known member
Is it OK to Put ATF in a Floor Jack?OK, got the unit filled with 8 oz of trans fluid. I poured 4 oz into that glass and marked a line on the glass. Poured it into the unit, refilled the glass and poured in again. 8 oz total.
I put everything back together, rolled it out and jacked up SWMBO's Ford Escape.
Yes, that's a LEAK under the power unit! So I pulled the jack out, turned it over and found I hadn't tightened the bottom plug. I tightened it back up, rolled it under the car and... it still leaked when jacking, but not nearly as much. Upon pulling the plug I discovered I'd installed an o-ring onto the plug--that was a mistake. I removed the o-ring, re-installed the plug, put another 1/2 oz of fluid into the unit and jacked the Ford up again. NO leaking.
paulsomlo
Well-known member
I think so - in fact, it helps with cold weather performance. I have a Blackhawk SJ2 that wouldn't pump in cold weather; when I switched from hydraulic to ATF, it started pumping again. I'm guessing that hydraulic fluid is either 10 or 20 weight, but ATF seems to be even less viscous. If you use ATF though, use regular old dino, not synthetic. If you look at compatibility charts, synthetic ATF is not compatible with polyurethane. Now, I believe the OS has a leather piston cup and I couldn't find data on leather vs. ATF, but leather is compatible with gasoline and heating oil, so ATF is probably a safe bet.
bubinga
Well-known member
Good Deal, Thanks paulsomlo.
Another Hein Werner , WS lives again .
I purchased it new in the early 70's
it has been leaking for about the last 5 years .
I purchased a rebuild kit on the recomendition from Hiball two years ago .
Finally , I found the time to do the job.
And hope I get another 40 years service from it
I purchased it new in the early 70's
it has been leaking for about the last 5 years .
I purchased a rebuild kit on the recomendition from Hiball two years ago .
Finally , I found the time to do the job.
And hope I get another 40 years service from it
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Well I picked up another WS couple weeks ago
While in the process of restoration ,The floor monster hid a part on me . The ring that holds down the spring cup of the plunger . My fix for that was found in Home Depot . I used 3 1/2 in E clips to make up for the thickness .
That worked just fine ! And is easyer to wrestle with .
I would like to find out the age of my new acqusition .
As there are minor differences from my original WS bought in the early 70's
( 1) the rear wheels have holes in them .
( 2 ) Both the springs and posts in the handle differ .
Can any one identify its age from the numbers on the name tag ?
While in the process of restoration ,The floor monster hid a part on me . The ring that holds down the spring cup of the plunger . My fix for that was found in Home Depot . I used 3 1/2 in E clips to make up for the thickness .
That worked just fine ! And is easyer to wrestle with .
I would like to find out the age of my new acqusition .
As there are minor differences from my original WS bought in the early 70's
( 1) the rear wheels have holes in them .
( 2 ) Both the springs and posts in the handle differ .
Can any one identify its age from the numbers on the name tag ?
Attachments
My #28 is leaking.Does it need to be tighter? Or a new 29? Rebuild kit installed less than 2 yrs ago.
https://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/heinwerner_ws_floor_jack_1.5_ton.pdf
Top page.Where a spring over ball then ball and spring.Then #29 valve seal.Does the valve seal really seal it or is it the threaded plug 28.?
https://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/heinwerner_ws_floor_jack_1.5_ton.pdf
Top page.Where a spring over ball then ball and spring.Then #29 valve seal.Does the valve seal really seal it or is it the threaded plug 28.?
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paulsomlo
Well-known member
I've got one of these torn apart on my bench right now - my sense is that the seal acts as a static piston cup, expanding against the pressure of the downward pump stroke. I see that the plug bottoms out against a shoulder, but I'm not sure if the two metal surfaces are designed to seal. I'm guessing you can crank down the plug a bit more, see what happens. Being slotted, there's only so much cranking that you can do. I would say try teflon tape on the plug, but you are dealing with a fair amount of pressure. As long as you're careful not to get any in the works, it can't hurt.
At any rate, I'm just guessing based on what I see with regards to my sample of one - when Hiball comes along, you'll have a more definitive answer.
I think my seal shrunk.It was easy taking out and putting back in today.Not so easy going in 2 years ago.If I could get a new seal by its self that’d be great.But not worth a $40 kit to me.
Just bought a 4 ton Hein Werner.See an other WS 1.5 for ten bucks that needs rebuilt.Thats what I paid for my WS 1.5, TEN BUCKS.
Just bought a 4 ton Hein Werner.See an other WS 1.5 for ten bucks that needs rebuilt.Thats what I paid for my WS 1.5, TEN BUCKS.
Pretty much all piston seals will conform to there surroundings, it’s the nature of the beast/design and really only seal uniformly while under pressure. With all that said... there is a reason that most jack manufacturers utilize copper washers/seals to seal there valve plugs. Unfortunately your options are limited based off the design, if you don’t want to invest in a New seal or plug you can probably get by with filling those threads up with some Teflon tape and it should address your issue.