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maximus5403

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Jul 19, 2017
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3
Platonic could you please help with my lighting layout? I do a lot of auto detailing and working on my vehicles. I do plan to have some above the garage door as well, so when the door is closed I still have plenty of light. Part of me was considering (8) 6 Lamp Fixtures (2 rows of 3 and 1 row of 2 above the garage door), but I may end up blinding myself. I would love to hear your thoughts.

Ceiling Height: 9'-6"

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tLAEdX38X59HIKTX2

I already have (24) of these Hyperikon 5000K LED Tubes - Single Ended

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Jbs9zx7aUHJ6Ho3u1

I am considering these fixtures in either 4 lamp or 6 lamp fixtures.

https://www.prolighting.com/brands/techbrite/led-ready-fixtures/b4146ssumxx00p0.html
 
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Platonic Solid

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maximus5403 - First 2 links don't work for me.

Comment on 2nd link after fixed: Second link appears to be a collection of mismatched data. A link to the actual product purchased would be better.
 
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maximus5403

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Links should work now. For some reason this site and my other image hosting sites don't work well together.
 

Rsharp66

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Mar 27, 2013
Messages
188
Location
Raleigh, NC
Hey Guys,
Been here a while but just finally got a house started the garage build. I am going to do a build thread but I need to get my light design done for the electrician.

It is basically a 25 foot wide double garage X 50 foot deep. The front 30 feet deep are 15 foot tall for a lift and other stuff, then it drops down to a more standard 8 foot for the machine shop and bike area. The ceiling will actually slope up a few feet from that to the center (see drawing sections).

I ran thru Platonic's best light thread and using the modeler program I come up with 20 of the 2 tube Maxlite LSS2XT8USE4803 fixtures with LUMEGEN LG-4T8-22WBB-SM50K(5000k) bulbs in the high bay and 16 of the same in the low.

My concern is that I really want to put these right on the ceiling (not hanging) and I know all of these calcs and bulb info are not quite accurate when I put them up that high. Plans and the calc plots are below.

Am I even close here or am I messing it up by putting them so high?
Platonic I know you are getting slammed with this stuff but I can PM you a dxf if you had time to look.
R
 

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micdelbo

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Mar 4, 2017
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2
I have been looking at lighting for a few weeks and it seems like this is the best resource I found. You seem to be the goto guy Platonic.

Building is 40'w x 64'l x 14'h pole building with last 20' insulated and white steel finished walls and ceiling on interior. See diagram. There are 2 windows along the 40' side and an entry door with window as well. The front has a 16' x 12'6 insulated garage door with 4 windows.

Shop is general use but would like it to be well lit. The remaining 44' x 40' of building is storage with garage doors (with windows) and unfinished wall or ceiling but has semi clear side panels along top 2' of walls (75% ltv). This area doesn't need to be lit as well.

The only unique circumstance is I will sometimes work in the shop with the 16' garage door open and would probably put the lights that would be hidden behind it on their own circuit.

Let me know what you would recommend for both shop and storage area.

Thanks,

Mike
 

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Jarnipman

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Dec 1, 2015
Messages
37
Great thread, thank you! My shop is 30 x 40 with 4 evenly spaced rows of 3 fixtures on each row, each fixture is 8 feet consisting of 4-4' floursecents. It works perfectly for me. That would be a total of 48 bulbs
 
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Platonic Solid

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40x48x16

40x48x16 (click little blue arrow thingy next to my name below to go to layout specific thread)

Qty.16 GreenTek GT-H2-110W 16,400 Lumen sold by greenlightdepot for $85 (link) = $1360.
It does not have surface mounting brackets available, but does come with “V” hooks and chains.

GreenTek is a relabeled James ZY-H2-110W fixture also sold by ledlightingwholesaleinc for $95 (link)

Dialux PDF Report (link)

Avg yield @ 30” workplane = 101fc
Total Lumen output: 262,528 lm
Total Wattage: 1760W (14.67 Amps @ 120VAC)

images linked to larger pics


 

Steve66_us

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Aug 12, 2017
Messages
1
20x30x12 with open steel trusses so its 16’ in center. 8x20 loft on one end and 2’ shelf down both sides. Loft and shelves will be at 9’ from floor. TY Sir!
 

tjlamb

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Dec 18, 2016
Messages
1
Hi Platonic,
I've been a long time lurker and this is my 1st post. I have a 40'W x 50'L with 14' ceilings. I have 3 bays, 2 10x10 garage doors and 1 10x12. I'm planning on finishing the inside with white metal on walls and ceiling. Currently have a movable 4 post lift and looking to add a 2 post down the road.
Usage is mainly car/mechanical maint and occasional detailing. There's a lot of info out there regarding "foot candle" / Lumens. My plan is to go with LED's as long as there are no issues with them in cold weather.

What do you suggest?

Regards,
Tom
 

twolabs

Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2017
Messages
23
Location
Bremerton, WA
Hi Platonic, I was hoping you could help me out also. With the lighting layout and fixtures of my garage. It's new construction. The left side has 16' ceilings and the right side has 10' ceilings. It is broken up by the shear wall in the middle. I would like to mount the lights flush to the sheet rock. Thanks for your help.
Jason
 

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wsmithduramax

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Sep 12, 2014
Messages
19
Platonic;

Lots of cool lighting layouts, didn’t seem to see a whole lot with my ‘L” shaped Garage like mine so was just curious, advice on lighting layout? Long bay has 16’ Ceiling, other bay has 10’ Ceilings, will being doing some light automotive work and some car cleaning (Buffing & polishing) also will have a 4 post lift that will not be perminatly mounted

Thanks in advance!

Wes
 

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8mpg

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Jul 9, 2012
Messages
350
I have been trying Dialux to do my own layout but Im stumped on how to do scissor trussed ceiling. Any help? Just need to figure out how to angle a ceiling. Part of my shop is angled ceiling, the other part if flat.
 

Hondafreak08

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Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Messages
18
Platonic. I seem to have a problem understanding when to go from 4’ led to high bays
As mentioned in your light fixture sticky
I am building a 27x35x13 shop
All white steel sided walls and ceiling .
Shop will be used for general use , welding and work and recreation

And input and advice would be appreciated.
I used the layout calculator you suggested but I was still confused on what bulb to use

Thank again. If you could just advise me what to buy and how many. I want it BRIGHT
 
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Platonic Solid

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Platonic. I seem to have a problem understanding when to go from 4’ led to high bays
As mentioned in your light fixture sticky
I am building a 27x35x13 shop
All white steel sided walls and ceiling .
Shop will be used for general use , welding and work and recreation

And input and advice would be appreciated.
I used the layout calculator you suggested but I was still confused on what bulb to use

Thank again. If you could just advise me what to buy and how many. I want it BRIGHT
Options:

Qty. 12 3x4 arrangement 9'x9' center to center spacing:

2ft. LED Linear High Bay - 80 Watt - 150W Equiv - Dimmable - 10,400 Lumens - LumeGen $70 ea. (link)($840 total) = 94fc @ 30" workplane.

2ft LED Linear High Bay - 110W - 16400 lm GreenTek $85 ea. (link)($1020 total) = 149fc ... (I wouldn't do this without using the 0-10VDC dimming feature) Fewer than 12 fixtures will lead to shadow issues (assuming this is a 3 bay garage).

Recommended footcandles @ 30" workplane for automotive mechanical work = 93fc
 

Hondafreak08

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Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Messages
18
Options:

Qty. 12 3x4 arrangement 9'x9' center to center spacing:

2ft. LED Linear High Bay - 80 Watt - 150W Equiv - Dimmable - 10,400 Lumens - LumeGen $70 ea. (link)($840 total) = 94fc @ 30" workplane.

2ft LED Linear High Bay - 110W - 16400 lm GreenTek $85 ea. (link)($1020 total) = 149fc ... (I wouldn't do this without using the 0-10VDC dimming feature) Fewer than 12 fixtures will lead to shadow issues (assuming this is a 3 bay garage).

Recommended footcandles @ 30" workplane for automotive mechanical work = 93fc



I forgot to add I have beams running lengthwise that may throw off the light
 

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revamped

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Bremerton, WA
I forgot to add I have beams running lengthwise that may throw off the light

Check out my Hi-Bay install with dimming in my signature. Turned out amazing! Definitely worth the higher lumens to be able to control. Also, look at the scalloping on the wall, you likely wont have issues with your transverse beams because the lights will hand down a little unless you find flush mount fixtures... even then, you will have so much light it wont shadow
 

Hondafreak08

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Messages
18
Does a 3x4 9'x9' arrangement fit such that the lights are approximately centered between the beams?

Yes, the beam is almost centered on the 3x4 layout , the beam runs long ways.
meaning the beam would be in the way of the center row. I could hang it from the center beam though.
 
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Platonic Solid

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Hondafreak08 - You need a proper drawing of your space and a layout. I'm on layout hiatus until next winter.
 

Hondafreak08

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Feb 6, 2014
Messages
18
Check out my Hi-Bay install with dimming in my signature. Turned out amazing! Definitely worth the higher lumens to be able to control. Also, look at the scalloping on the wall, you likely wont have issues with your transverse beams because the lights will hand down a little unless you find flush mount fixtures... even then, you will have so much light it wont shadow

how does the dimming feature work? I take it its more than just a dimmer switch like a standard bulb?
 

rd65

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Sep 29, 2017
Messages
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Location
Granite Falls, WA
panchohughes - That's an inefficient cord mounted hanging shop light intended for task lighting over a workbench. It is not surface mountable and as your diagram shows you'd need a rediculous amount of outlets. Not to overlook the rats nest of cords will look rediculous. At the cost of installing all those outlets you may as well get real fixtures.

Qty.9 of these will give you 82fc @ 30" workplane:
2ft. LED Linear High Bay - 80 Watt - 150W Equiv - Dimmable - 10,400 Lumens - LumeGen - $70 (link)
Platonic, I am in the process of this same approximate size building. 32w x 28d x 10. 2-10w x 8t overhead doors. Walls and ceiling will be white plywood, floor bare concrete. Will be used for working on project mustang and motorcycle work-that is the lift on the left center. Work bench in front of that. Shelving units along the sides of building. Would this same layout work ok?
I read all posts on this Sticky and this is the closest to my build. Thanks for your time and feedback.
 

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Platonic Solid

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rd65 - The problem with using a high bay fixture at 10' is you end up with 9 bright spots @ workplane. It's not the ideal fixture for this mounting height. Better overall consistency achieved with 4ft strip lights. I'd do continuous end to end mounted 4' 2-lamp strip lights around the entire perimter spaced 3' from walls, then another continuoous end to end mounted 4 fixture row centered between bays.
 

rd65

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Sounds good, thanks for the feedback. I am assuming you would recommend one of the bulb & housing combinations from the Best Light sticky. I was going to go with the Maxlite housing but was wondering which of the 3 bulbs you prefer (shows that the 4th is unavailable). This build kind of caught me off guard, so much time waiting, then BAM. I should have a building by the end of the week, they started last Wednesday.
 
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Platonic Solid

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rd65 - Yes, the Maxlite housing since you're surface mounting. If saving electricity matters, go with the GLLUSA lamp from ProLighting. If not, then go by lamp price.
 

whitemamba

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Jun 11, 2014
Messages
92
36x84 16’ eave height,
no windows or skylights
Ceiling is white faced vinyl
Walls will be spray foamed.

Assuming I need high bays for 16’ height

I’m almost to final on building and then concrete followed by lights. So figured I should get them figured out and ordered.

Appreciate any help given.
IMG_0003.jpg
 

whitemamba

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Jun 11, 2014
Messages
92
Anyone want to give thoughts on layout from the visual interior tool. 21 lights is what it’s calling for. Seems like Rv won’t be a issue as fixtures will be on sides and not directly overhead. Fifth wheel is 13’6” high.

IMG_3545.jpg
 
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Platonic Solid

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whitemamba - Looks good to me. Since these fixtures don't have surface mounting brackets = you'll be hanging from chains, you can put 1ft into the "suspension length" category. Whether this is an ideal layout depends where your garage doors are located. If possible, try avoiding having fixtures covered by open garage doors. This is not always possible.

Edit: Apparently garage door interference isn't an issue for you as I see in this post that you are using the roll-up style garage doors.
 
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whitemamba

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whitemamba - Looks good to me. Since these fixtures don't have surface mounting brackets = you'll be hanging from chains, you can put 1ft into the "suspension length" category. Whether this is an ideal layout depends where your garage doors are located. If possible, try avoiding having fixtures covered by open garage doors. This is not always possible.

Edit: Apparently garage door interference isn't an issue for you as I see in this post that you are using the roll-up style garage doors.



I liked the idea of no track and no loss of headroom
 

gilbreathm68

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May 16, 2018
Messages
5
Location
Kentucky
Just joined the forum as I am in the process of building a garage. I have read so many post but I am now overwhelmed with info that I don't really know what to do and could use some help.
I am building a 30'x28' garage with cathedral ceiling 9' at wall to 14' at peak. I will have the ceiling and walls finished in drywall with an epoxy (light coloring) painted floor. I will have a 4 post lift in one bay and the other bay will be pull in for daily driver. I want the area to be super bright so that I do not have to use trouble lights for working on vehicles. The 2 garage doors will follow the pitch of the finished ceiling in order to provide maximum head room for lift.
I originally though of installing 25 recessed can lights (850 lumen each) but with the height of ceiling and angles, I don't think that will be enough.
What should I install??? I think Hi-Bay lights may be too much for this area....plus I won't have enough room between ceiling and garage door when opened (10").
My head is spinning...... please help
Thanks
 

mrichied

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May 9, 2018
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Can anyone help? My garage was completed last week, sub panel is being fired up within the next few days. I'd like to do LED can lights to dimmer switches. Garage is 24' x 24' with 10' ceiling. Side walls and ceiling will be sheetrock painted white, wall opposite overhead door will be pallet wood accent. 2 windows on the side walls are 60"x36". Overhead door has small windows as well. Thanks!
 

HellaFab

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Feb 10, 2013
Messages
210
Location
Kingston, Ontario
I'm having a bit of a struggle coming up with some lighting ideas for my shop, any insight would be helpful.

Image with layout attached.

Garage is 21' deep by 19'3" with a 5'11" full width overhead storage area that reduces the ceiling in that area to 7'6".

Thanks!
 

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HellaFab

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stopped by my local supply shop and they suggested these are their most common light fixtures. $65 each Canadian, integrated LED.
http://rabdesign.ca/product/smw4-led48/
48w
4358lumen
4000k
cri >80

it has IES files but it doesn't specify the lighting angle on its own to know how suitable it would be in the tight quarters of the 7.5' tall area.

their layout part of the website suggests 8 fixtures in my 10' tall area would have 77FC average and 2 fixtures in my 7.5' tall area would be 84fc average. their applet doesn't have the ability to do the whole space in one go nor does it show the "heatmap" like platonic has historically provided, unfortunately.

any thoughts on this? the lights are not dimmable, unfortunately.
 

Jonny K

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Apr 12, 2016
Messages
14
Location
Calgary, Alberta
Hello,

It's come time for me to figure out lighting for my new garage and I'm in full paralysis mode. Looking at this and the "Best Fixture" threads has been an information overload, especially since threads go back so long and technology is now different. Perhaps someone can direct me?

I have an unfinished interior and need to insulate and drywall before the summer is done, but I need to know lighting electrical first so I can have an electrician wire before I cover everything up. I'm not clear on how fixtures wire. Some lights can be chained in a row, so does that mean I just need electrical at one end of the ceiling? I see some have standard electrical plugs, meaning I should have electrical sockets on the ceiling for them to plug into. When I look at the "Best Fixture" options they seem to have plain power wires on only one side of the fixture, how do those connect? Do I need electrical boxes all over the ceiling for each light?
Without knowing my fixture I don't know what my electrical needs will be. And should I mount lights right on the ceiling or have them hanging down to avoid garage door opener shadows?

Details:
Garage is 24'x24' with just under 10' ceilings.
Walls and ceiling will by drywalled and painted white.
Eventually I'll epoxy the floor in a light color, but I'm not there yet.
I'd like bright even lighting with minimal shadows for car detailing and mechanics.
Higher CRI would be nice, perhaps.
I'm in Canada.

That last one is a consideration, it's expensive to bring stuff over the border so I'm not sure that I can order the "Best" fixtures. Does anyone know of Canadian options, such as the one HellaFab posted?

Thanks.
 

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revamped

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Location
Bremerton, WA
Hello,

It's come time for me to figure out lighting for my new garage and I'm in full paralysis mode. Looking at this and the "Best Fixture" threads has been an information overload, especially since threads go back so long and technology is now different. Perhaps someone can direct me?

I have an unfinished interior and need to insulate and drywall before the summer is done, but I need to know lighting electrical first so I can have an electrician wire before I cover everything up. I'm not clear on how fixtures wire. Some lights can be chained in a row, so does that mean I just need electrical at one end of the ceiling? I see some have standard electrical plugs, meaning I should have electrical sockets on the ceiling for them to plug into. When I look at the "Best Fixture" options they seem to have plain power wires on only one side of the fixture, how do those connect? Do I need electrical boxes all over the ceiling for each light?
Without knowing my fixture I don't know what my electrical needs will be. And should I mount lights right on the ceiling or have them hanging down to avoid garage door opener shadows?

Details:
Garage is 24'x24' with just under 10' ceilings.
Walls and ceiling will by drywalled and painted white.
Eventually I'll epoxy the floor in a light color, but I'm not there yet.
I'd like bright even lighting with minimal shadows for car detailing and mechanics.
Higher CRI would be nice, perhaps.
I'm in Canada.

That last one is a consideration, it's expensive to bring stuff over the border so I'm not sure that I can order the "Best" fixtures. Does anyone know of Canadian options, such as the one HellaFab posted?

Thanks.

Based on your explanation; and the fact that you are going to hire out the work... you really need to select a contractor immediately and get them out there talking you through this. If your plan is to cover by the end of summer, you have a lot of work to do and with the industry wait times right now... you better get someone you can trust out there soon.

If you are paying for an electrician, they will walk you through it all and it wont cost you more to have them plan it as well. Unless you are going to slam your boxes and panels, and drill and wire yourself; there is really no reason to concern yourself with the circuits... focus on the basics like where you want your outlets, where you want your panels and switches, and what equipment you plan on using and where. That will also be important to establish load calculations. Consider all future opportunities, i.e., it only costs $8 a breaker and less that $1 a foot to run additional 220 drops for the ability to plug in an RV, move a welder and use it in several locations, back feed a generator, etc. Just have a rough drawing with the ideal locations of your outlets and how many 220 drops you are looking for.

The rest the electrician can do with his eyes closed!

Then get insulated (go with more R), then rocked/finished (don't ever think you can skip this and do it later... you won't)!
:shocking:
revamped
 

Jonny K

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2016
Messages
14
Location
Calgary, Alberta
Based on your explanation; and the fact that you are going to hire out the work... you really need to select a contractor immediately and get them out there talking you through this. If your plan is to cover by the end of summer, you have a lot of work to do and with the industry wait times right now... you better get someone you can trust out there soon.

If you are paying for an electrician, they will walk you through it all and it wont cost you more to have them plan it as well. Unless you are going to slam your boxes and panels, and drill and wire yourself; there is really no reason to concern yourself with the circuits... focus on the basics like where you want your outlets, where you want your panels and switches, and what equipment you plan on using and where. That will also be important to establish load calculations. Consider all future opportunities, i.e., it only costs $8 a breaker and less that $1 a foot to run additional 220 drops for the ability to plug in an RV, move a welder and use it in several locations, back feed a generator, etc. Just have a rough drawing with the ideal locations of your outlets and how many 220 drops you are looking for.

The rest the electrician can do with his eyes closed!

Then get insulated (go with more R), then rocked/finished (don't ever think you can skip this and do it later... you won't)!
:shocking:
revamped

revamped,

Thanks for the input. The garage is newly built, and when built I already had the electrician install a 60 amp sub panel to support electric car charging and power outlets all over the place. But when it came to lighting they had no clue, they simply asked me what I want and were ready to install stuff, but they didn't know how the do the nice lighting plans themselves. To get the job finished I had them just install a few basic lights for the time being, hoping to come back later and do it nice. That time is now.

I don't entirely trust an electrician to set up a high end lighting solution like the guys here discuss with those sweet calculated diagrams showing uniform light and 93 FC at work height, etc. The electrician just asks me where I want lights and that's it. So I'm trying to understand what I need, and then just tell the guy where to wire the basic electrical and I'll do all the rest. I find that when you hire somebody who actually knows what they're doing the price is enormous, so I'm trying to get the knowledge myself and only have an electrician run the main power wires.

And yes, lots of insulation is coming once the wiring is done. I've gone two winters with no insulation in the garage and it's time.
 
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