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Maxjax Installs: Post Here

Joined
Oct 9, 2016
Messages
5
Help: Want to Switch from "Dry" to Epoxy Anchors

Have had my lift installed for just over a year, and like most here absolutely love it!
HOWEVER, I must have done a poor job drilling the anchor holes as but 3 anchors require constant re-torquing, and 1 anchor will no longer torque to specs. So I want to pull all the original anchors and replace them with the epoxied anchors; need to re-use current holes to maintain current lift position in the garage.
Wondering if others have done this how they got the original anchors out. Have never used a wheel puller but I'm thinking that might be the answer, but there are dozens of different types/styles per Google search. I'm ASSuming that the epoxy will be able to cope with any distortion in the hole size due to pulling the old anchors (?).
Any and all advice/suggestions would be REALLY appreciated!
:beer:
 
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JohnnyK8

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2016
Messages
664
Location
Illinois
Can you push the old anchors through the slab? That's what I have seen people do for various reasons.

If you have 4-5" slab this might be the ticket.

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Joined
Oct 9, 2016
Messages
5
Thanks for the suggestion Johnny!
My slab runs between 5 & 6" so I was hoping someone might have tried pulling instead of pounding. I'm thinking pulling might be less work since most of the anchors are already somewhat loose.
But if I don't find a way to pull them I guess it'll be Sledge Hammer Party Time!
 

JohnnyK8

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2016
Messages
664
Location
Illinois
Another option might be to use that big ol' drill that you used to install them and hog out the anchors. After you thin the walls of them a little they might want start to spin loose. It's a lotta work but but might be less destructive. We don't want to cone out the bottom of the concrete.

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Franc944

New member
Joined
Jan 21, 2018
Messages
2
So I just got my Maxjax used off craigslist for $800

I spent $85 on concrete anchors from Dannmar

I ordered 35’ or hose and got the fittings from Amazon

I bled it for a long time. Still lifts way uneven. One side is just way faster up
N down. I’m about to try this valve that should do the trick to slow down the quick side

Prince WFC-600 Wolverine Flow Control Valve, Carbon Steel, In-Line, 8 gpm Max Flow, 3/8" NPTF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005984VO4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

What are your thoughts on this fix?
 

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wisdomination

New member
Joined
Nov 5, 2016
Messages
4
Location
Honolulu, Hawaii
Just got my MX-6 today looking to install it within the month, depending on how much free time I have and availability on new fittings/custom hoses. My garage is too tight ��
29lo1l4.jpg
 

sreeb

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
Messages
460
Location
SoCal
Epoxy anchor sizing.

Looking at the wej-it specs, it appears that 1/2-13 power-sert epoxy inserts are stronger than the 5/8-11 power-drop mechanical inserts which are supposed to be adequate if installed properly.

The 5/8-11 epoxy insert install spec requires 6-1/4" on concrete which I don't have so they would need some unknown amount of de-rating.

The 1/2-13 epoxy insert requires a 4-1/8" hole depth so I can install them per spec. 1/2-13 insert also violates minimum space less.

Assuming that you are starting from scratch and not trying to rescue your existing holes, does it really make sense to use the 5/8" epoxy inserts.
 

sreeb

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
Messages
460
Location
SoCal
So I just got my Maxjax used off craigslist for $800

I spent $85 on concrete anchors from Dannmar

I ordered 35’ or hose and got the fittings from Amazon

I bled it for a long time. Still lifts way uneven. One side is just way faster up
N down. I’m about to try this valve that should do the trick to slow down the quick side

Prince WFC-600 Wolverine Flow Control Valve, Carbon Steel, In-Line, 8 gpm Max Flow, 3/8" NPTF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005984VO4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

What are your thoughts on this fix?

I think it shouldn't work since the system is designed with a geared positive displacement valve that sends exactly the same amount of oil to each cylinder without regards to pressure or flow rate.

You should probably either buy a valve from dannmar or track down the chinese company that makes them.

Or you could tear into the valve to see if it is repairable.
 

Denwood

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2014
Messages
4,180
Location
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
So I just got my Maxjax used off craigslist for $800

I spent $85 on concrete anchors from Dannmar

I ordered 35’ or hose and got the fittings from Amazon

I bled it for a long time. Still lifts way uneven. One side is just way faster up
N down. I’m about to try this valve that should do the trick to slow down the quick side

Prince WFC-600 Wolverine Flow Control Valve, Carbon Steel, In-Line, 8 gpm Max Flow, 3/8" NPTF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005984VO4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

What are your thoughts on this fix?

That should work..there's a few others who've done the same. My Maxjax is typically about an inch out on one side.
 

mbrock

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2017
Messages
15
Ordered a maxjax Black Friday and assembling now that Christmas stuff is out of the garage. The box was banged up in transit and the cart wheels are missing. I realize I can call Danamar but if it’s cheap and easy I’ll probably pick up a couple casters from a local store and make them work. Anyone know roughly how tall these are? The part list doesn’t say. I know the cart hub is 1/2”. Any insight is appreciated. Will post pics of install when done. TIA
 
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
Messages
17
Location
NC
Ordered a maxjax Black Friday and assembling now that Christmas stuff is out of the garage. The box was banged up in transit and the cart wheels are missing. I realize I can call Danamar but if it’s cheap and easy I’ll probably pick up a couple casters from a local store and make them work. Anyone know roughly how tall these are? The part list doesn’t say. I know the cart hub is 1/2”. Any insight is appreciated. Will post pics of install when done. TIA

My cart (a few years old) has a 5" diameter wheel. HTH.
 

mbrock

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2017
Messages
15
Thanks. I got some temp casters from HF and drilled them out to fit. Not perfect but will work for a week until Danamar replacements arrive.
 

ttod

Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2011
Messages
8
Location
Los Altos Hills, CA
Re: Help: Want to Switch from "Dry" to Epoxy Anchors

Have had my lift installed for just over a year, and like most here absolutely love it!
HOWEVER, I must have done a poor job drilling the anchor holes as but 3 anchors require constant re-torquing, and 1 anchor will no longer torque to specs. So I want to pull all the original anchors and replace them with the epoxied anchors; need to re-use current holes to maintain current lift position in the garage.
Wondering if others have done this how they got the original anchors out. Have never used a wheel puller but I'm thinking that might be the answer, but there are dozens of different types/styles per Google search. I'm ASSuming that the epoxy will be able to cope with any distortion in the hole size due to pulling the old anchors (?).
Any and all advice/suggestions would be REALLY appreciated!
:beer:

From the WeJit FAQ's. Can I remove Wej-It Anchor-TITE wedge anchors?
Wej-It Ankr-TITE anchors can be removed using one of two methods. Core drill around the anchor and remove the core/anchor. Use hydraulic equipment to pull the anchor out of the hole. However, for the anchor to be removed by this method, there will probably be surface spalling and damage to the inside circumference of the base material hole. Also, there is a possibility that the anchor will break, leaving a portion of the body in the hole.

I have the same problem and wish I'd used Epoxy. One possibility is to step it over the bad anchor and drill three new holes. I am considering that myself.
 

MotoCARR

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Messages
137
Location
IL
Anyone with a large spectrum of vehicles that they need to lift? Care to share your outer post dimensions?

I'm struggling with where to set my posts at. Largest would be a regular cab short bed Silverado smallest would be a Miata.

I would need to lift both, but most importantly lift the Miata, coupes, sedans, etc. If I had to live with an inconvenience like having to crawl out the truck window because the post would be too close to open the door, I would be ok with that. It would be rare that the truck would be on the lift.
 
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
Messages
17
Location
NC
Anyone with a large spectrum of vehicles that they need to lift? Care to share your outer post dimensions?

I'm struggling with where to set my posts at. Largest would be a regular cab short bed Silverado smallest would be a Miata.

I would need to lift both, but most importantly lift the Miata, coupes, sedans, etc. If I had to live with an inconvenience like having to crawl out the truck window because the post would be too close to open the door, I would be ok with that. It would be rare that the truck would be on the lift.

You can always put in multiple sets of anchors to accommodate a wide range of widths:
 

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MotoCARR

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Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Messages
137
Location
IL
You can always put in multiple sets of anchors to accommodate a wide range of widths:
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ochristofferson/21884222354/" target="_blank"><img src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ochristofferson/21884222354/">
</a>

There I was thinking that, but figured there would be some ill effects on the concrete having so many holes close together. There isn’t an issue with doing that so close together?
 

Sotex

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2018
Messages
16
Location
South tejas
Btw anyone with a 4 door shortbed 2nd gen Tacoma. Looking for column placement suggestions.
I did the max width from instruction book,no problems.2f156bf06bfad0a6815cf056e86eeca5.jpg6f46ad43d6b292cf19340c1cf84323b4.jpg77d7ac62e488c29be6002cee43ac35dd.jpg

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Jvvmusme

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Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Messages
566
Location
Bogota, Colombia
Installed my MaxJax almost 2 years ago today, and this thread was a wealth of information.

About 1.5 years ago I took it down (including disconnecting hydraulic lines) and set it aside in my garage, and this weekend set it up again for the second time. I was pleasantly surprised when it worked 100% perfectly on the first try.

I have the 6" extensions. I think I'm correct in assuming that it is not safe to combine the 3" and 6" extensions for a total of 9". Can someone please confirm?

i see no problem in combining extensions
 

Sotex

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2018
Messages
16
Location
South tejas
Is that corolla the smallest car you’ve lifted?
Did the golf cart, this thing paid for itself the first time my vette went up..I got one of the last cheap one's. It was like $1600. They went up.449664de7276315a9c104a2c484589fb.jpg

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Sotex

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2018
Messages
16
Location
South tejas
Awesome, I think I'm going to go max as well! Thanks Sotex for posting.
No prob,,those short tripod jacks are great for added security.when in place you can swing off the bumper and the car won't budge..Very safe.

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MotoCARR

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Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Messages
137
Location
IL
No prob,,those short tripod jacks are great for added security.when in place you can swing off the bumper and the car won't budge..Very safe.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J320A using Tapatalk

Are those Greg Smith stands?
 
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
Messages
17
Location
NC
There I was thinking that, but figured there would be some ill effects on the concrete having so many holes close together. There isn’t an issue with doing that so close together?

Not really as long as you don't have any cracking between holes. The anchor (if using the epoxy ones) also acts to help hold it all together.
In reality you don't need to do the full grid like I have - you could skip a row and then repeat the original pattern. There is plenty of adjustment available with the MaxJax.
 

MotoCARR

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Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Messages
137
Location
IL
I see what the hype is about. Not 24hrs after install already doing a brake job :).

https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/50540694_10156153478498543_4586803108218142720_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=d659eaf50329396ed428b4b777f9118a&oe=5CC479E5
https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51014144_10156155142023543_6424617397973417984_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=ecf203f36b0d5ca39461589d9ecac159&oe=5CC63458
https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51231850_10156155142158543_386463132979036160_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=87f43c2617f9ecac7fe7d60832bb26a3&oe=5CF0037B
 

Sotex

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Joined
Aug 4, 2018
Messages
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Location
South tejas
I see what the hype is about. Not 24hrs after install already doing a brake job :).

https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/50540694_10156153478498543_4586803108218142720_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=d659eaf50329396ed428b4b777f9118a&oe=5CC479E5
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Hell yeah!! Looks cold in that garage.

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MotoCARR

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Joined
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Messages
137
Location
IL
Hell yeah!! Looks cold in that garage.

I'm still on the fence about replumbing the wall heater to the front of the house where my gas meter was moved to. Had the propane tank and space heater cookin for a while, 20 deg outside and it was 60 in the garage.

Working in T-shirts in the winter!:thumbup:
 

JarcustomsLLC

Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Vancouver, WA
Bought it black friday, only issue I had (my fault) i didnt lube the inside as well as I thought and it binded and got stuck lowering, car was tilted almost a foot

I got it loose and lowered and called dannmar, they were super cool and send me detailed pics of where to lube on the inside

havent had an issue since

Will get my CTSV sedan on it soon after some ramps show up (too low on the front)

Cant post links yet :(
 

curiousB

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Joined
Dec 15, 2011
Messages
143
Location
NW Chicago, IL
Re: Sunex tripod stands


Are the discreet holes and link good enough to align to the lift stops? Is there one with a threaded adjustment for say 2-4” of continuous adjustment between the link stops?
 

darkbuddha

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Joined
Aug 8, 2009
Messages
126
Location
Sorrysota Flarduh
A question for any of you guys that have installed your MaxJax or M-6: I'm trying to follow the instructions for the assembly of my M-6 starting with the hydraulic fittings that attach to the base of the cylinders, and I found that according to the instructions that I'm supposed to use two 45 degree fittings per side, but I only received one per side. Which one did you folks get? One or two per side?

In any case, I wanted to share this experience: I called and left a message for my sales guy at gesusa.com requesting the two missing fittings be shipped out to me. I ended up getting a call back from a woman in the "technical department" telling me the assembly manual was a "misprint" and that I only needed one per side. When I nicely requested that she send me the updated manual with the correct assembly instructions, she turned very sharp and edgy, telling me they didn't have an updated manual and reiterating over and over it was just a misprint. I pointed out that someone put a lot of work into this supposed misprint with 6 different places (between parts list, written instructions, and multiple pictures) showing the need for the additional 45, including a very clear picture on the product page for the lift on Dannmar's website. Ultimately, she became very rude, cut me off, raised her voice, and said she didn't want to argue (which she already had), and that she's sending me the 45s I requested. Not a very promising start to my post-sale customer service experience.
 
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