Maxjax Installs: Post Here

[Acuratechva]

Have a machine shop turn a set of pins.My 7" pins cost $50 for the set.

Wow this is nice. I'll have to look around. Did they already have the "blanks" of right size or did you look for them somwhere.


Im 6'1 and my neck was killing me , first i was going to lower the stool, cut few inches out of the center and weld back up. Then started raising the car on wood blocks and then adding the 3" extensions. Surprisingly with my M3 i still have a solid 3" before i hit the ceiling

PS: This was recommended by another member pages ago. From now on i swear by this stuff. I've started using it on engine galley plugs as well. Ditch the tape it will be a bigger mess to reseal later. Just make sure it cures overnight...i found out the hard way lol

 

[Mr onetwo]

Wow this is nice. I'll have to look around. Did they already have the "blanks" of right size or did you look for them somwhere.

I just took a factory pin to them and they turned the 7" ones.I didn't look for anything...single best add-on to the MaxJax IMHO.

 

[grtpumpkin]

I imagine most installs will require the shims. I would think all garages are sloped towards the overhead doors. The shims supplied with the lift, are they plastic or steel? I'm very close to purchasing this lift. My garage floor is level from right to left, but is sloped towards the entry door for drainage. It is sloped quite a bit. A level on the floor requires 1/4" shim at just a 20" span to bring it back to level. I was glad to read through this entire thread, which took some substantial time, as I gained a lot of insight. I was all giddy & anxious to go purchase the Atlas scissor 6000lb lift till I stumbled accross this thread. Floor jacks **** & my aging body is protesting in pain.

Rich.

 

[Unhdsm]

Steel, or aluminum. Metal anyway. Definitely not plastic.

 

[shortykorte]

Shims that came with my MaxJax are steel.

 

[grtpumpkin]

Shims that came with my MaxJax are steel.

Thanks.

Ordered mine today. Should have it in a week. Looking forward to drilling holes, Not!

 

[grtpumpkin]

So with a sloped/pitched floor, should the holes be drilled plumb or perpendicular to the surface. I know I will be shimming my posts as my floor is pitched.
I do not remember if this has been mentioned previously.
R-

 

[tjc1965]

So with a sloped/pitched floor, should the holes be drilled plumb or perpendicular to the surface. I know I will be shimming my posts as my floor is pitched.
I do not remember if this has been mentioned previously.
R-

Drill the holes plumb. Don't get in huge tizzy about being perfect, the slope on your floor isn't crazy wild. I found that just having the help of someone else to spot the drill while I was drilling the hole maws plenty of precision. Also, use a longer drill bit, makes it easy for your helper to see if you're leaning over too much.

Tom C

 

[grtpumpkin]

Thinking about using the epoxy with the pd58 anchors. For those of you that did this how were you able to work fast enough? The stuff starts to gel up in 5 minutes according to the spec sheet. It will harden in the nozzle long before your half way done. If this is the case I may not go this route.
R-

 

[nholmes]

Thinking about using the epoxy with the pd58 anchors. For those of you that did this how were you able to work fast enough? The stuff starts to gel up in 5 minutes according to the spec sheet. It will harden in the nozzle long before your half way done. If this is the case I may not go this route.
R-

This is what I used and had no issue with it curing rapidly. This was in 70* weather with low humidity.

https://www.strongtie.com/epoxyanchoringadhesives_adhesives/et-hp_adhesive/p/et-hp

 

[Mr onetwo]

Read thru the epoxy discussion in this thread http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=284793&highlight=maxjax+install

 

[monty007]

Need some advice. I have had my MaxJax for about a year and absolutely love it. I'm looking for some threaded pads that fit the lift. I have a Porsche that is very low and I'm trying to keep the body away from the arms. I had bought 4 hockey pucks with the intention of putting them on the lift pads for clearance but the car is so low that the pucks are too tall to fit.

I have found that Rotary has a threaded pad option available but I'm not sure it will fit in the MaxJax posts. Rotary has not provided the specs on their product.

Has anyone else successfully found a solution?

 

[sidwin]

Need some advice. I have had my MaxJax for about a year and absolutely love it. I'm looking for some threaded pads that fit the lift. I have a Porsche that is very low and I'm trying to keep the body away from the arms. I had bought 4 hockey pucks with the intention of putting them on the lift pads for clearance but the car is so low that the pucks are too tall to fit.

I have found that Rotary has a threaded pad option available but I'm not sure it will fit in the MaxJax posts. Rotary has not provided the specs on their product.

Has anyone else successfully found a solution?

both my viper and 997t are low. drive over 2x8 on all 4 and call it a day. cut 4 boards. i use the stock ones with nothing over them and haven't had a problem.

 

[monty007]

both my viper and 997t are low. drive over 2x8 on all 4 and call it a day. cut 4 boards. i use the stock ones with nothing over them and haven't had a problem.

Thanks for the quick response sidwin. I too have a 997 turbo. Do you have some pics of your car on the lift? Does the arms hit the body of your car? It touches in my case. Maybe I can use your idea and then put the pucks on top of the factory lift pads to give it more clearance.

Thank you for the idea!



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[artrem]

Back with my 987 Cayman I used to use a set of those milled aluminum "pucks". However, my current 981GTS is too low for the pucks. I just use the MaxJax pads without any additional spacers. Seems to work fine; the pads don't hit anything else. Don't know about a 997 turbo. Wish I had that problem...

 

[sidwin]

Thanks for the quick response sidwin. I too have a 997 turbo. Do you have some pics of your car on the lift? Does the arms hit the body of your car? It touches in my case. Maybe I can use your idea and then put the pucks on top of the factory lift pads to give it more clearance.

Thank you for the idea!



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No pics. The yellow arms don't hit anything. Comes close...

Thanks-Sid

 

[monty007]

This is what I mean. Too close for my comfort. It touches.


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[sidwin]

This is what I mean. Too close for my comfort. It touches.


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Your post are either to close together or u don't have it centered on the lift. Your rear bars are not stretched out enough. Mine are lengthen out enough where it isn't that close. Now if u can't move the post then just roll the car up on 2x8 then then see if you can use extension to life the pad up. My rear arm looks just like your front arms.

I would need to see a picture of your lift with nothing on it. Then put the arms out ina v shape and lift the arms with the hydraulic. Then put a leveler front to back and side by side. Then diagonal.

 

[monty007]

Your post are either to close together or u don't have it centered on the lift. Your rear bars are not stretched out enough. Mine are lengthen out enough where it isn't that close. Now if u can't move the post then just roll the car up on 2x8 then then see if you can use extension to life the pad up. My rear arm looks just like your front arms.



I would need to see a picture of your lift with nothing on it. Then put the arms out ina v shape and lift the arms with the hydraulic. Then put a leveler front to back and side by side. Then diagonal.

This how I lift my car with the weight bias kept in mind. Posts are 130" apart. Posts are level. My garage floor is sloped by about 3 degrees. Arms are level to each other in both directions. I don't have pics showing the level. How far apart are your posts?


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[sidwin]

This how I lift my car with the weight bias kept in mind. Posts are 130" apart. Posts are level. My garage floor is sloped by about 3 degrees. Arms are level to each other in both directions. I don't have pics showing the level. How far apart are your posts?


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Call maxjax and see if the lift is a symmetrical one. If it is then don't worry about weight load. That is more important if you were dropping the engine out.

I thought I read somewhere that maxjax was symmetrical. I lifted my trucks and cars. All of which don't have true 50/50 weight distributions with no problems.

 

[monty007]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm quite sure the MaxJax is symmetrical.

 

[shortykorte]

Yes symmetrical arms.


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[realien]

Have a question, when I raise my lift before it hits a locking point, it start to sink once I take my finger off the raise button, its slow, but if I raise it 12" it will sink back to bottom within about 20 seconds, is this normal ?

I was hoping to raise the car a foot, make sure its stable before I raise it all the way to the first locking point, but its sunk back to resting point before I get chance to check it.

I've bled both cylinders a couple of times and no air appears to be in the system.

 

[sidwin]

Have a question, when I raise my lift before it hits a locking point, it start to sink once I take my finger off the raise button, its slow, but if I raise it 12" it will sink back to bottom within about 20 seconds, is this normal ?

I was hoping to raise the car a foot, make sure its stable before I raise it all the way to the first locking point, but its sunk back to resting point before I get chance to check it.

I've bled both cylinders a couple of times and no air appears to be in the system.

diverter valve? i would call maxjax.... no reason why the jack should come back down unless u have a leak or a faulty lever.

 

[monty007]

No, there is definitely something wrong. It should stay up at the height you raise it to. There is the little box attached to the cart which splits the fluid to the two separate cylinders. Do you hear the fluid moving through it? Any funny noises? Sounds like the diverter valve or the fluid pump might have something wrong.

Call MaxJax for help.

 

[realien]

Thanks, I'll take a listen

 

[realien]

Nothing sounds bad, it sinks 12 inches over a minute

Video :
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1svV8CEtAkCejcwVndXd0JhaXM/view?usp=sharing

I've emailed danmar

 

[realien]

it was air in the line. I re-did the bleeding, ran the lift to 1/3 bled, 1/2 bled than all the way and bled and got a bit of air in one cylinder at each level, and now it behaves

 

[realien]

If I want to extend the hoses and wall mount the unit, do the hoses have to be equal length ?

 

[NewShockerGuy]

If I want to extend the hoses and wall mount the unit, do the hoses have to be equal length ?

Nope. Keep in mind the side that possibly has the longer hose MIGHT lift a tad slower. Mine does.

I have only 5' of hose on the post that is up against the wall. Then I have about 20' of hose to the other pillar that goes around my garage/toolchest. I then only take that off the post and roll it up and store it beside my compressor so the hose isn't on the floor in the way 24/7.

-Nigel

 

[realien]

Nope. Keep in mind the side that possibly has the longer hose MIGHT lift a tad slower. Mine does.

I have only 5' of hose on the post that is up against the wall. Then I have about 20' of hose to the other pillar that goes around my garage/toolchest. I then only take that off the post and roll it up and store it beside my compressor so the hose isn't on the floor in the way 24/7.

-Nigel

thanks Nigel, I'm going to do something similar, I've only had the lift up a week and i've nearly tripped over the hose 10 times and cursed it,

So I could get 10' of 3/8 hydraulic hose and a 3/8 to 3/8 NPT union and just extend one hose right ?

 

[monty007]

Hi realien,

Take a look at my setup. I used the factory equipment and just got 1 long hose to connect the pump unit to the diverter valve. It looks like you have space above the garage door to install. It keeps the costs down and allowed me to install the pump unit on the wall and out of the way. Best thing is....NO MORE TRIPPING!! Basically ran the factory hoses vertical to the ceiling. Pump mounted on the wall.

Post 1291. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35763&page=65

beautiful skyline and garage! Share some pics please.

Also take a look at Jagmullins' setup post 1353. 1 long hose, one short hose, pump assembly mounted to the right side post. Very clean setup.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35763&page=68

 

[syclone50]

If I want to extend the hoses and wall mount the unit, do the hoses have to be equal length ?

I mounted mine on the wall and the new hoses are NOT the same length, no issues!

 

[realien]

Thanks for the advice guys, I got a 10' hose and union and extended one side and mounted the pump to the wall next to one column, much better

(marked where I'll be adding a dedicated 20 amp socket)

 

[Toys4Life C5]

Here is my finished install and a review to boot.

 

[Colin Len]

it was air in the line. I re-did the bleeding, ran the lift to 1/3 bled, 1/2 bled than all the way and bled and got a bit of air in one cylinder at each level, and now it behaves

Nice GTR! Any idea what height your garage door is at? I haven't seen many setups like this in a pretty crammed space and that's pretty much exactly what my garage would be like if I get one of these.

 

[heart attack]

Looks like the epoxy anchors have been discontinued. Is there anything else out there that will work? The hammer drill I rented sucked and ovaled the holes out ��

 

[ebamba]

Looks like the epoxy anchors have been discontinued. Is there anything else out there that will work? The hammer drill I rented sucked and ovaled the holes out ��

From talking to a former Danmar salesperson, he reccomended using a rotary hammer drill as opposed to a regular hammer drill. He said that it drilled a cleaner exit. The hammer drill may cause the concrete to brake away at the exit giving a false reading when measuring actual thickness of the slab. Probably would help alleviate the issue you are having with wallowed out holes. Just a thought.

 

[heart attack]

That would have been good to know before hand. Think I'm gonna use quickreat hs epoxy and some all thread. Thoughts?

 

[AllstarWard]

Topic: MaxJax Hydraulic Flow Divider has leaking bolts

I am in the process of installing my Max Jax Two Post Lift (6000 lbs).

My problem is that the ends of the four bolts that hold the hydraulic flow divider together are leaking hydraulic oil. Hydraulic flow divider part #17207037

The instructions say it is okay to use either hydraulic oil, or Dextron 3 Transmission oil. As I said, I used hydraulic oil.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks,

Allstar