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MP&C Shop Projects

OP
M

MP&C

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Finishing up the welding of the inner bottom panel....used a 3/16 hole for the plug welds this time. I normally use a letter A, but the flange here is a bit narrow, so a smaller hole it is. To make up for it the heat on the welder was cranked up a bit to insure a good weld.


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Looking at the back side, these should hold well.


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All the plug welds done, then on to the corner seams.....


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and after cleaning up the welds.....


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Then we'll clean up the plug welds on the flange, media blast the inside for good paint adhesion and some epoxy primer before closing it up..
 
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Duke55

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Your work is definitely inspirational. Your posts have made me decide to build the bead roller I have thought about off and on for the last couple of years this winter. Look forward to your posts.
 
OP
M

MP&C

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Thanks, any updates on your dad's pickup you're building? Can't wait to see that one finished... over the top! :thumbup:
 

Duke55

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Thanks, any updates on your dad's pickup you're building? Can't wait to see that one finished... over the top! :thumbup:

I just posted an update. Nothing too impressive. I need to quit with the "over the top" so I can finish it. But once again, I am hung up making something complex for something that should be simple.
 
OP
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MP&C

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Tonights repair was to duplicate one of these mounting blocks for the lift gate's gas strut.

The good one...


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...not so good...


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Used a hole saw to provide some radiused ends and the 3" cutoff wheel to cut out all the torn and ragged metal..


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A piece of 19ga is tacked and welded....note the original color....


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Cut out a piece from a steel angle, drilled and tapped the three 10-24 holes. This was bolted in place using anti-seize on the screw threads to prevent galling during the weld process.. then plug weld holes drilled and welded from the outside..


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Plug welds cleaned up, checking the threads for burrs...


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And for next time, we have one more piece to add while the bottom is still open, the floating nut plate for the tailgate latch....


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OP
M

MP&C

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Moving on to the next task, removing the "cage nut" from the old piece...


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This was a good opportunity to demonstrate using the cutoff wheel for removing spot welds...


http://s5.photobucket.com/user/rmccartney/media/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration%20Album%203/RemovingSpotWelds.mp4.html


Here's the cage removed, the spot weld removal method leaves it nice and intact for getting good measurements for the new one...


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A fresh piece of 18ga and some red Dykem, and our new cage is underway....


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Slots....


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All ready for some media blasting and epoxy paint...
 
OP
M

MP&C

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Thanks for the comments guys. But I'll be honest, there's quite a bit in this post I wouldn't/couldn't have done 6-8 years ago. Some of the metal shaping sites are an invaluable resource in adding to your skillset. Workshops to learn the skills are held worldwide. Hopefully my posts will inspire others to use some of these resources to increase their own abilities.


Tonight I trimmed the lower edge of the lift gate to get the final repair part fitted up.


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OP
M

MP&C

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Thanks for the comments guys. But I'll be honest, there's quite a bit in this post I wouldn't/couldn't have done 6-8 years ago. Some of the metal shaping sites are an invaluable resource in adding to your skillset. Workshops to learn the skills are held worldwide. Hopefully my posts will inspire others to use some of these resources to increase their own abilities.


Tonight I trimmed the lower edge of the lift gate to get the final repair part fitted up.


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Once both ends of the lift gate were trimmed, looking at the surface profile you can see we need a bit more crown at the ends of the repair part.


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To add some crown, the lower flanges on the ends were folded flat and used the Erco to shrink the bottom flange.


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The multiple bends toward the top were another story, a 1/4 beading die lightly pushing into a skateboard wheel, and the ends were pushed in and pulled up while exiting. Here's the results...


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Oh yeah.....you can see the top of the welding table again! :D


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Next task on the list will be to form/fold the ends..
 
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OP
M

MP&C

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Today I finished up the final piece for the Studebaker truck (other parts on posts 68, 69, etc... http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182565&page=4 )

This piece was to hold the heater/AC controls and DIN radio. The owner had made up a sample piece to make it from:


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I wasn't too comfortable making something to match this piece as I didn't think these corners and the elliptical radius was correct. This is what I get for someone not wanting to bring over the truck to work from.. :willy_nil


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Looking at the picture he had sent of the dash, the piece this was replacing appeared to have straight sides and about a 1/2" radius.... (the piece under the orange panel)


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So I had him bring that panel over to have a "more accurate" sample so my work will have a better chance of fitting.. a bit different from his sample...


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What I could only guess was him wanting 3/8 hardware, was actually 10-24 studs with a 3/8 nut.


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You've got to love it!


Here's the layout, and cut out on the band saw....


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I use some modified lower dies in the press brake to fold the 1/4" flanges around the perimeter....


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The folds were stopped shy of the corners, and a 1" diameter "anvil" was used to form each corner radius.


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The process is shown in this video on a similar piece....


http://s5.photobucket.com/user/rmccartney/media/1947%20Studebaker%20M5/Video158.mp4.html


Finished radius....


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Then, to add a radius along the bottom, I used the Baileigh magnetic brake, adding a 7/8" steel rod to form the radius...


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....and then the front was folded up...


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The front was squared up, then sides were clamped, and spot welded in place....


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Din hole cut in place..


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Hidden studs added....


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Note anti-seize on threads to prevent galling/stripping of the threads while the nut held the studs in the vise during welding.


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Welds for the studs cleaned up, and the radio test fit...


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Some holes will be added to the rear of the side panels to attach support straps for the rear up to the dashboard during install... For now, All ready to go!!
 

yaidunno

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WI
Great work on the radio box! Is that a manually operated press brake i see? If so, any info on it?
 
OP
M

MP&C

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It's a Diacro 16-24 manual press brake. The 2' width works well in small, cramped shops, just about right for most patch panels.
 
OP
M

MP&C

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Here's a better pic. I got one on Racing Junk for 250 plus shipping, the other was ebay from a trophy shop in NJ. Made the stands from 2 x 2 x 1/8 angle.


HPIM6459.jpg
 

Duke55

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That magnetic brake has to be one of the coolest metal working tools I have seen. If only I could figure out how to get one and stay married.
 

yaidunno

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Wow, that sure beats the $2000+ they want for the ones on ebay now. Nice looking setup you've got there.
 
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OP
M

MP&C

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That magnetic brake has to be one of the coolest metal working tools I have seen. If only I could figure out how to get one and stay married.

I basically got this one at half price as it was part of the contest that I won on metalmeet. I had been looking at the mag brake beforehand, so it was an easy choice..


Wow, that sure beats the $2000+ they want for the ones on ebay now. Nice looking setup you've got there.

The second one I think I got for about 780. I was surprised I got it that low as they had been going for about 1500 at the time. It also came with the Diacro Rollformer dies, the one on Racing Junk came with no dies at all. I visited Norman Machine in Baltimore, they have a pretty good selection of used press brake dies...

Radio box looks good. Can we see it in position ?

Simon, the owner will be picking it up this week, will ask for pictures when he gets them installed.
 

NASTYZEN

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St-Colomban,Que. Canada
Nice job on the radio box Robert.
I've used one of those spot welders before....and have the scars to prove it. Those tongs get real hot.
The same place that had the spot welder also had a mag. break. It was pretty cool to work with. Nice machines, you ****!:thumbup:
 

e-tek

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Dec 19, 2007
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Saskatoon, SK
Great work, great photos as always. I was surprised how much hammering it took to round over that edge though! ;)
 
OP
M

MP&C

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Thanks for the comments fellas.

Ed, If you're talking about the video of the corner rounding, a bit of that was more of a "glancing strike" to help keep from adding a bunch of stretch. Probably could accomplish the same results using a plastic faced or dead blow hammer.
 
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sanddan

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Jul 7, 2005
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708
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Oregon
First off I have to say thanks for sharing your metal working skills. I do have a question, when I go to the link for your videos it takes me to a photobucket site without videos. I could find the pictures but no videos. What am I doing wrong?
 
OP
M

MP&C

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I just double checked and it does go to the video for me. Perhaps it is buffering or if at your workplace, perhaps they have videos blocked??
 

Kevin54

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I just double checked and it does go to the video for me. Perhaps it is buffering or if at your workplace, perhaps they have videos blocked??

If it's a shop, chance are a video is blocked. Some of the problem may lie withing Photobucket also. When you go to the video, and it doesn't show up, refresh your page by pushing the F5 button on the keyboard. I know that I've had to do that a few times
 
OP
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MP&C

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Won't have a shop update until late tonight or tomorrow, but I thought I'd show some pics I took today of my brother in law's 56 Chevy survivor. I may have some rust repairs to do on this in the future, but I think he really enjoys driving it just the way it is...untouched.

This car was left to him by his uncle who bought the car new in Dec of 1955. It stayed primarily on the farm, and was kept out of the weather in a shed. Where it does show some battle scars and has some rust damage from over the years, it is neat to. see a car left largely untouched.


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Are these mirrors an original Chevy item? Dealer installed? My bil did say he had a receipt where his uncle had taken the car back for dealer installed back up lights, not sure on these, though.


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Farmer repaired eyebrows using aluminum flashing and paint purchased at the dealer..


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Original wheels with the factory pin stripe...


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This is one of the nicest fitting doors I have ever seen on a tri five...


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Having performed some of the tri five roof repairs, it's nice to see one in this pristine condition, still in factory paint. Looks like having been in the shade of a shed has protected the car from the extreme temperature changes that causes the condensation inside the roof skin.


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More farm repairs.... heater control knob..


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...and here's the original mileage on this 6 cylinder car...


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nonhog

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Nov 6, 2007
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Arizona (Tucson)
Dang! Cool car, thanks for sharing. I'd be tempted to fix the rust and mix some blue primer over just the repair areas and call it good. Very interesting farm fixes.

Hope he leaves it a six, just don't see them that way.
 

DoghouseForge

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May 11, 2013
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Lakeland, Fl
Lovin it!

thanks for the details!

Im affraid my sheet metal techniques have been focused on flowers and plants...but im jones'n to jump on the break and get that jeeps floor pans started.

Soon! :)

Keep it coming

JP
 
OP
M

MP&C

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Thanks for the comments guys...

Brad, he has asked before about the possibility of fixing rust and just spot repairing the paint. I think he's trying to keep as much original as possible.... including the 6 cylinder.
 
OP
M

MP&C

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Another slight detour.... I need to stop looking for this stuff....or is it looking for me?

This pinch weld showed swelling between the two sheets, and a closer inspection showed some rather thick scale...


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Out with the old...


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Test fit of the new...


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The exposed metal was media blasted, as was the inside of the newly made patch....and some epoxy primer added...


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We'll let that dry and then get it welded in place.


And just to show the makeshift clamping system for cutting, grinding, and painting in an awkward spot......


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raskal

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Aug 16, 2005
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290
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British Columbia
And just to show the makeshift clamping system for cutting, grinding, and painting in an awkward spot......

wow! ... you and I have the same clamps. Does that mean I can restore a vehicle without 3 gallons of Bondo being used? :( No... no it doesn't

p.s. Love your work
 
Joined
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Orange County CA
:thumbup:thumbup:Thank you for inspiring all of us here, your talents as a metal shaper are beyond words. I really enjoy all your posts especially how to make complex shape using hand tools only. It’s been my experience little that I have that you need to start with your hands before moving onto using tooling like the English wheel, planishing hammer, and shrinker, stretcher machines. I am currently working on a 51 F-1 and a 73 Shovel however I have become overwhelmed with everyday life kids school, sports, and the house work that never ends with a 1921 home. What‘s the secret to getting quality time in the shop and balancing life? I’m coming up on my 47 birthday and I would like to really refine my skills before I hit 48, if you have any wisdom you could pass along I would really appreciate it.

PS. Can you send the video link!
 

krivasgarage

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Oct 22, 2010
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196
Wow. After lurking this thread for the past year, I feel like I need to mail someone a check for tuition.
 
OP
M

MP&C

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not yet, I don't expect them for a week or so as they were still doing paint work.
 
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