Just curious, for the tire rack, instead of having the tires four across could you have them set up 2x2 in a new cradle that can be lifted into the rafter area to get them out of the way?
Tire storage is so tough... Especially when you have more than one vehicle with snows/summers, in my case I have four sets of tires in storage... Good stuff
Must be nice to have all that space out in Afton Would not be able to use that nice rack you just made, but could lumber go up above, in the “attic?”
Nick, you have the nicest garage storage furniture I've ever seen! Maybe the tires can move to the storage shed![]()
I’d mount the lumber rack in the green box. Although all of your stuff is on wheels, it seems the right wall would provide easier access.
[...]
Also... I admire your dedication to taking progress pics while you are working. It’s fun to follow along. I’m bad at this, I only end up taking pics at the end of the day.
I can't recall of your garage had the clearance, but I built a shelf that is above the tracks of my garage door. I lay two wheels on their sides on each side of the garage door. (Your exposed rafters wouldake it easy to mount) I also built racks for my ladders on the ceiling above the garage doors. I stole my last space saver from sakurama (mid century moto meca) and hung the tracks for my TS and my long level on the inside of the garage door.
Very nice looking racks, I'm jealous of the double drawer workbench. And the tires look toe like they've found the perfect home. I know what you mean by their old protrusion being a problem, I'm having a similar issue with the bike above my workspace. Might have to use you as inspiration![]()


to keep the off cuts tidy, although thats where a real fire comes in useful, I've found.

I do have a couple of jobs coming up where its gonna be useful though.
Nice! Kind of like a radial arm saw, but safer.
My apologies if you already mentioned this and I missed it, but any thoughts of making extensions that mount to the t-tracks on the ends? Might be handy to have a bit more infeed/outfeed if you are ever cutting big panels. Also, why 29"? Is that some sort of magic cabinet building number?

Or rather the bench is 30" deep but realistically after I add a fence the actual cut capacity will be more like 28.5" I think. Should be enough for 95% of cabinets I would think!Hi Nick
Good to see you still in the garage/workshop making life easier for yourself.
Nice rackto keep the off cuts tidy, although thats where a real fire comes in useful, I've found.
I was getting a little bored with seven weeks lockdown so treated myself with a couple of purchases. I only gave the wife the price minus the tax and also blamed you, I think i'm in the clear.I do have a couple of jobs coming up where its gonna be useful though.
Stay safe
Steve
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1010689&stc=1&d=1589472984
Looking like a professional setup! Any projects on the horizon for it?
But if there's one thing I'd really like to get done this summer it's the fireplace built-ins. Need to revisit it but this was the rough design I made well over a year ago:

Workbench came out great Nick.
Bret
The rendering looks awesome! What program did you use? I've dabbled in several but never committed to one.
The fireplace built-ins look great in the concept drawing. I'll look forward to seeing them come to life.
Your MFT's look great. I think I understand how the tracksaw one works now that I've watched Guys video and gone back over your pics. So basically you can rip pretty much anything up to 29" wide and as long as needed if you add on in/out feed extensions hence overcoming some of the issues trying to do those cuts on the table saw which gets a bit dodgy.
The tenon system for assembly I definitely think I'll try to integrate into my cart builds, drives me nuts trying to keep everything aligned for cabinet assembly, that is a really good solution.
I may have something incoming soonAll the tool suppliers here are pretty competive so they are all the same price.
Is the vacuum hose you have from the saw a generic one or a makita branded one ?
GB

Thanks Nick, that was a great viewing list. So many ideas!
Also thanks for the link on the vacuum hose. I'll see what I can source.
GB


Nick - What are you using for shop vac?

It's a just Shop Vac brand 5 gallon / 5.5 "peak horsepower" connected to a Rockler Dust Right chip separator.
![]()
It works well for the most part. But due to the way the Festool sander collects dust the suction is too powerful. And the whole thing with separator is a bit unwieldy and now with the new bench I don't have a great spot for it as you can see by how close the GTI parks.![]()
...And the whole thing with separator is a bit unwieldy and now with the new bench I don't have a great spot for it as you can see by how close the GTI parks.![]()
Thanks.. I am looking at purchasing a wet dry vac that can handle cars, sanding, and water in the basement when it floods. Every review has different ones it seems and nothing is consistent.
Have you considered putting the vacuum in the rafters? Fast forward to the ~2 minute mark...
GG you can't go wrong with a Ridgid shop vac. I have 2. One has been in the woodshop for 15 years and still going strong. And it used alot. I do recommend whatever you get buy a Cleanstream filter you won't regret it.
Bret
Thanks.. I am looking at purchasing a wet dry vac that can handle cars, sanding, and water in the basement when it floods. Every review has different ones it seems and nothing is consistent.
That work bench came out great! I’m curious about the shop vac in the rafters thing. I have a separator on my system and I only get fine dust into my shop vac. May be an idea. I know Mikita sells a nice shop vac that competes with Festool, and is a couple hundred cheaper.


Bummer on the brackets - do you just need a complete redesign, or are your tolerances too loose? If I understand what you are trying to do, I think you'd want to have two screws in that plate to prevent the bracket from racking.
If its just a matter of loose tolerances, here's another option for making brackets - other GJers have had good luck with this outfit.
https://sendcutsend.com/
Also, how do you like that dust collector? I've been looking at the same one for my shop. My apologies if that is a repeat question, I can't remember if I've asked you that already, or just keep meaning to ask and never do.

Hi Nick
Just checking in, hope you are all safe and sound.
The picture frames look good as does the clamp rack.
It’s sometimes the little jobs ticked off that are really satisfying.
A little update, I’ve used the Festool plane and CTL1 on site, and I
have to say it’s brilliant, worth every penny. I’ve planned in the room I’m working in and no dust or chips escape. I’m looking at what else I can get away with buying to hook up to the CTL. The auto start is really good, probably not needed but quite cool.
Stay safe
Steve![]()



Just a few thoughts...
Are you using that small square to try and square the fence to the rail? If so, I would definitely look to get a larger square. What looks perfect at 4-6" might be out 1/16" or more at at 24". If you don't have anything larger, picking up a ~$10 framing square might not be a bad idea to get you going. Just make sure keep it hidden in a corner so your Woodpeckers don't see it and get mad. Also, if you do get a framing square, be sure to check for square before using it (pretty simple process, how-to's can be found with a quick search).
Second, this may seem silly, but have you checked both your t-rail and your fence extrusions for straightness? Holding a straight edge to it, or looking down it from the end should reveal pretty quickly if it is bowed or not. I know Incra is pretty good about precision, but you never know. If both look good, it might also be worth checking the fence while installed to make sure that the brackets and knobs aren't affecting anything.
I understand your frustration. I've spent many hours of my life chasing my tail on stuff like this. More with metal than with wood, but the principles are the same.
This thread is just great. I just bought my first home, with an attached 20x20 garage, and a doored/attached 17x13 rec room next to it. My cars are a bit bigger (1972 Nova, 2001 740i) but considering I plan to put my workbenches in the attached room, your garage is a GREAT proportional frame of reference for what can be done in a "smaller" garage (instead of all these other lucky guys with 24x30.. 30x40.... 50x140 "garages" hahaha).
Subscribed!

Keep trucking man, these are small and frustrating setbacks, but you’re on the right path.
Single screw = point of rotation. You’ve found the fix already.
Wood insert - consider getting a chunk of HDPE plastic (cutting board material) from amazon or McMaster. It’s cheap, dimensionally stable, easy to machine, and self lubricating so it slides well.
Took addition - if you don’t own a set already, grab a set of Nicholson files. Super affordable and with some practice, make it easy to sneak up on a line when machining metal or plastic.
Checking square - no need to get a big framing triangle. High school trig is your friend, measure out a 3,4,5 triangle on your stock to check for square.


Nick you keep sending me down youtube rabbit holes lol.
Have been looking over Peter Millards tracksaw vids last night, I think I'll make some parallel guides too.
https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7S6M0i1Mz9pf2uo5SpFSWrQOu0qpjeIs
So I have my saw and the 118" bigboy track (and it's indeed a bigboy - not sure where to store it yet), hopefully get to play this coming weekend.
Will be great to see how that curve turns out in the kitchen. I've not seen stain that dries in 1 hour and single coat, how did it come up ?
Cheers GB
Nick you keep sending me down youtube rabbit holes lol...
Cheers GB
Nick that looks fantastic!
Bret
Wow! Nick that looks great!
What he said!