Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

[Hiball]

Any tricks to getting the tank nut off (other than eating more spinach)?

Proper fitting Wrench + Cheater bar = Goodness.

 

[1stwarrior95]

Any tricks to getting the tank nut off (other than eating more spinach)?

Notice the handle on Hiball's pipe wrench? LOL

I'm guessin there's been a stubborn one or two through the years!

 

[toms73novass]

My jack has leaked out of the pump. I put in a new seal a few years ago, it still leaked.

I took the jack apart tonight and there is a rust ring on the pump even after cleaning it up. I'm sure this is the source of the leak.

Is there any way to "save" the pump? I was thinking of possibly silver solder and then turn down to original diameter? Cut off the rod from the "hook" and turn down a new rod and reweld?

Hiball, thoughts?

 

[toms73novass]

All right, maybe it is not the mark causing it too leak.

I took a closer look at it and it is fairly low on the piston.

It leaked out of the piston area when I had something on the jack, much less so when just at rest.

Could that be due to a check ball not seating?

Also I noticed that I put the backer ring in the hole first and the oring on top. That could also be why it still leaked after the oring replacment....

 

[Hiball]

I can't tell how bad the piston is scarred as I'm on my phone. It does require a fairly smooth surface to prevent any seapage or seal damage. I do have some used pistons, if your interested. I of course will need some measurements. As far as the back up and oring is concerned you need to have the back up on top of the oring. The backup should have a flat side and a concave side, always put the concave side towards the oring and a ove the pressure as it's job is to keep the oring from distorting under pressure.

 

[toms73novass]

Hiball,

Thanks for you thread, another rebuilt jack leak free!

 

[LVM945]

Hi,
I just finished reading your procedure for taking apart a floor jack. Great job!.I realize I am missing the small ball that sits under the release valve. How can I find a replacement?.
Thank you for your input .
LVM945

 

[Bill Crowell]

Hiball or anyone, I'm a noob who's really been enjoying this thread. I was wondering if you could please identify my jack and tell me where I can buy seals for it and what type of seals it takes. If I am not mistaken, it came from Japan. Although I bought it from some long-forgotten tool discount store about 30 years ago, it seem to be fairly well made; in fact, it's made better than ones currently being sold by Harbor Freight. The brand is National Industries or National Industrial or something like that. (Of course the sticker is worn off in that spot. That is a requirement, isn't it?) The pump seems to use an 11.2-mm O-ring with 2 backups, a thick green one (UHS 11.2) and a thin white one behind the thick one. However, the O-ring was totally missing. The release valve uses a square bore with a protruding head and one ball.

Here's a picture. Thanks a lot! Bill

 

[kennyb12]

Great posting, although I will have to find the time to fix my small leak.
I fumble with small parts. I have a 2 piston Arcan jack AJ 35 probably china made. Leaking from the one in the center. The one on the right seems ok

 

[bigdavesproule]

great thread!! i pm'd you there hiball looking for some advice for my jack rebuild.
thanks
dave.

 

[bigdavesproule]

after rebuilding my jack and getting it to lift again, i feel there is still something wrong with it, when you lift a load, the load will drop at the same time lifting the jack handle, but once the jack handle is fully up the load willnot drop any further, is there something i have done wrong? i am missing the spring for the jack handle by the way but i thought this would not have mattered?
thanks
dave

 

[elav]

Hiball, I just PM'ed you on some o-rings.
Thanks,
Alan

 

[muleman1]

This has been spot on for my interest. Hiball, I am trying to send you a pm now to get some parts so I can fix 2 sick Japan Jacks. Thanks for your efforts with this post.

 

[usmcclint]

thanks, it took me over a hour to type all this up and only 5 min to dismantle that jack. Im just glad i can give back for all the info and deals i find here.

hello trying to shout back to u about rebuild kit----need some
help here-----what do i need to do!!!!
Thanks

 

[muleman1]

hello Hiball,
Are you still in the business of selling Jack parts? I sent you a list of parts needed and still waiting for your reply on ordering theses parts from you. Please respond! Thanks muleman1

 

[tominos]

great thread!

didn't know where else to post this, i have a 2.5 ton performance tool jack i've had for a while. still works ok, but problem is the handle to release the jack or tighten can just spin and spin when trying to tighten so it seems like it's stripped. i can still use the jack but trying to release, you never know when the jack will come down.

is this something that can be rebuilt or should i just buy a new jack?

 

[bczygan]

What a great read this thread is. Just picked up an ATD 7504 3 ton (For $10) that looks much like the example jack. Doesn't lift. Will be doing a tear down step by step from the example. Thank you so much Hiball. Local hydraulic shops said it's a "throw away" jack. We'll see about that.

 

[bczygan]

Hiball,
A question..........I've disassembled my jack according to your directions (And it is almost identical, down to wrench sizes). When I removed the release valve, the seal under it was cockeyed, not seated properly and partly mangled on one side. Would this alone cause the jack to not operate (Lift) at all? The seal is not a true oring, but rather seems to have a ledge on each side. Photo will follow. Is this kind of seal available? Oil isn't above the piston, so I may need a little. Also, should I continue with complete dis-assembly, or just see if this is the problem?

Very exciting to be fixing, rather than breaking things!!!

 

[Hiball]

Hiball,
A question..........I've disassembled my jack according to your directions (And it is almost identical, down to wrench sizes). When I removed the release valve, the seal under it was cockeyed, not seated properly and partly mangled on one side. Would this alone cause the jack to not operate (Lift) at all? The seal is not a true oring, but rather seems to have a ledge on each side. Photo will follow. Is this kind of seal available? Oil isn't above the piston, so I may need a little. Also, should I continue with complete dis-assembly, or just see if this is the problem?

Very exciting to be fixing, rather than breaking things!!!

Unlikely unless the center piece (square) portion was
Mangled, that stationary portion is what allows the linkage to raise and lower when the gear is turned.

 

[bczygan]

Unlikely unless the center piece (square) portion was
Mangled, that stationary portion is what allows the linkage to raise and lower when the gear is turned.

I'm not understanding your answer and my information might be incorrect.

Looking at this rubber "washer" or seal let me describe it. First, it sits on a round metal washer with a square hole in it that accommodates the square end on the release valve.
The seal could be an o-ring that was left squashed for a long time, giving it a different cross section. I notice in your example there is what looks like an o-ring that has deteriorated. Are o-rings what are typically used here? How tightly must the release valve be screwed in? Just enough so that when the handle is turned, that it doesn't unscrew? If it is an o-ring that goes in here, how do I size it. Diameter to fit the size of the opening, but what diameter of the cross section of the o-ring?
When I try to reseat this one it gets jammed off center.

 

[Hiball]

I'm not understanding your answer and my information might be incorrect.

Looking at this rubber "washer" or seal let me describe it. First, it sits on a round metal washer with a square hole in it that accommodates the square end on the release valve.
The seal could be an o-ring that was left squashed for a long time, giving it a different cross section. I notice in your example there is what looks like an o-ring that has deteriorated. Are o-rings what are typically used here? How tightly must the release valve be screwed in? Just enough so that when the handle is turned, that it doesn't unscrew? If it is an o-ring that goes in here, how do I size it. Diameter to fit the size of the opening, but what diameter of the cross section of the o-ring?
When I try to reseat this one it gets jammed off center.

There isn't alot of pressure at the release so just use a oring that matches the outside diameter, not terribly thick (2-2.5 mm). The proper way to reinstall the release mechanism is to lengthen the Inner adjustment to where you can square it up inside the lower slotted piece, then start threading the main gear assembly into the block, when it gets hand tight (bottoms out) turn the gear so it retracts the inner piece and at the same time tighten the outer gear. Repeat till the release assembly is all the way down. If you don't follow these guidelines you will simply just keep bottoming out inside. After you have tightened it up make sure the gear turns easily, if not loosen the assembly a bit. Hope this helps, it's hard for me to explain something in words when it comes with doing it for years.

 

[bczygan]

There isn't alot of pressure at the release so just use a oring that matches the outside diameter, not terribly thick (2-2.5 mm). The proper way to reinstall the release mechanism is to lengthen the Inner adjustment to where you can square it up inside the lower slotted piece, then start threading the main gear assembly into the block, when it gets hand tight (bottoms out) turn the gear so it retracts the inner piece and at the same time tighten the outer gear. Repeat till the release assembly is all the way down. If you don't follow these guidelines you will simply just keep bottoming out inside. After you have tightened it up make sure the gear turns easily, if not loosen the assembly a bit. Hope this helps, it's hard for me to explain something in words when it comes with doing it for years.

Thank you Hiball!
I do understand.
Should the square end of the mechanism have an indent from the ball bearing on the end or is that from it being tightened down too much?
The nut on the top of the mechanism (Above the star gear), is adjusted so the star gear is wobbly. And when I go to screw the whole assembly in, if it is tight enough to resist the turning of the star gear, it is too tight to turn the star gear. I'll try a new o-ring, properly adjusting it, and filling with the right amount of oil.
If the handle won't lock the valve so the jack will pump, what is the next thing to look at?
After that, if the handle won't allow

 

[bczygan]

When properly adjusted, should twisting the handle turn the star wheels with no halt in either direction?
What could cause this? Low oil? Bad o-ring? Other seals?

Bill

 

[bczygan]

Some photos of the ATD 7504:

 

[bczygan]

OK,
Went to HF today and got the pick and hook set, a bottle of hydraulic oil and the blue box of 300+ metric O-rings. Almost missed it. It was on the shelf down at the floor, not on hooks up at eye level.
Installed the proper one in the release mechanism, put some oil in the rubber filler plug and reinstalled the handle mechanism. When installing I held the star wheel and inner mechanism immobile and lined up so the square end was aligned with the square hole in the washer below as I threaded the outer shell of the mechanism down into the casting and tightened it. Should I have held the shell in place and kept turning the star wheel until it closed the valve?
Tried turning the handle to lock or release the jack and it just spins both directions.
I still don't understand how the release mechanism works to lock or release the jack.
When holding he release mechanism in my hand and turning the star wheel, it does not lower the square portion on the other end.
If the valve is in the release mechanism, is it possible it is jammed open or closed?
If I hold the star wheel immobile and turn the opposite (Square) end with a wrench will it break or should it unscrew?

Bill
Clueless in Detroit

 

[Hiball]

OK,

When holding he release mechanism in my hand and turning the star wheel, it does not lower the square portion on the other end.
If the valve is in the release mechanism, is it possible it is jammed open or closed?
If I hold the star wheel immobile and turn the opposite (Square) end with a wrench will it break or should it unscrew?

Bill
Clueless in Detroit

The Valve has to be completely seated against that washer Solid or the Release wont work.

1. Insert the Ball
2. Inert the Washer
3. Insert the Oring
4. Lengthen the square by Unscrewing it from the Release Assembly.
5. Insert the Square section into the Washer
6. HOLD the Gear and thread the Assembly into the Hydraulic Block
7. When it bottoms out (Square against Ball/Seat)
8. Rotate the gear to the Right which will pull the inner square back up into the Assembly, Meanwhile screwing the assembly down into the block.
9. When the Assembly is completely seated, This will seat the washer and whenever you turn the Gear it will Rise and Fall. Thus seating and unseating the ball for Proper Jack Operation.

 

[bczygan]

The Valve has to be completely seated against that washer Solid or the Release wont work.

1. Insert the Ball
2. Inert the Washer
3. Insert the Oring
4. Lengthen the square by Unscrewing it from the Release Assembly.
5. Insert the Square section into the Washer
6. HOLD the Gear and thread the Assembly into the Hydraulic Block
7. When it bottoms out (Square against Ball/Seat)
8. Rotate the gear to the Right which will pull the inner square back up into the Assembly, Meanwhile screwing the assembly down into the block.
9. When the Assembly is completely seated, This will seat the washer and whenever you turn the Gear it will Rise and Fall. Thus seating and unseating the ball for Proper Jack Operation.

Hiball,

SUCCESS!!!

The square end has a threaded shank that was stuck by seating it to firmly up in the mechanism. Holding on to the star wheel while turning it with an adjustable counter clockwise freed it. Then I unscrewed it enough to go through the washer and touch the ball. Backed it off a little. Then I screwed the shell into the casting while holding the star wheel motionless. Once the shell was tightened into the casting, compressing the new washer, I could turn the star wheel counter clockwise a turn to bottom the square against the ball. This is what happens when the handle is turned clockwise and the star wheel on the end of the handle turns the other star wheel on the release counter clockwise, setting the jack to raise.
Did a preliminary test by loosely assembling and trying it. It pushes the piston out. And when released, the piston can be pushed back in.
All this from one little washer and a lot of help from you.
Next step is reassemble and try it out with a load.
May still need a total rebuild. We'll see.

Thank You!

 

[bczygan]

More progress.
Reassembled the jack except the cotter pin into the end of the piston. Even figured out how to thread the long spring through from front to rear and hook first to rear.
Star gears weren't meshing well until I discovered that the casting needed to be adjusted before locking into place with bolts.
It locks and releases.
It raises the jack.
To begin with, it raised it very little with each stroke.
Then I added some oil.
Now it does better but seems to be sucking for more oil.
When I put my weight on it, it feels spongy and flexes some but soes not go down until I release it.
Air in the system?
Not enough oil?
Other seals need work?
Cylinders scored?

I'll test it under load from the car tomorrow after I adjust it and add some more oil.

 

[Hiball]

More progress.
Reassembled the jack except the cotter pin into the end of the piston. Even figured out how to thread the long spring through from front to rear and hook first to rear.
Star gears weren't meshing well until I discovered that the casting needed to be adjusted before locking into place with bolts.
It locks and releases.
It raises the jack.
To begin with, it raised it very little with each stroke.
Then I added some oil.
Now it does better but seems to be sucking for more oil.
When I put my weight on it, it feels spongy and flexes some but soes not go down until I release it.
Air in the system?
Not enough oil?
Other seals need work?
Cylinders scored?

I'll test it under load from the car tomorrow after I adjust it and add some more oil.

Well.. The only thing you can check without tearing it down is the Oil Level, The oil level should rest just above the Inner Cylinder when peering through the fill hole. Otherwise.. Its gonna require being torn down.

 

[bczygan]

There is a thrill when you can take a useless hunk of metal and make a working piece of equipment out of it!
I know it's old hat to a lot of you wrenchers, but... for me it is exciting.

And having the right mix of tools and supplies to do it is power!

 

[bczygan]

Tried it under the tongue of a pop up trailer and while it lifted it a few inches, that was all. So I will need to probably do a full rehab on it. Instead of wasting any more oil on it, that is what I will do next. What an adventure!

 

[tm0711]

Greetings: It is 2/1/2012 and I have been reading your article on jack rebuild. I have a 2 ton Sears floor jack #328.12030 and it quit holding up and would slowly sink down. I read your article and followed it and when I got it taken apart, I found the main seal which is some kind of plastic to be cracked and chipped. The seal looks like a thick cup with no "o" ring and it seems to be made of some type of hard rubber or plastic. I cannot find the manual and the jack is so old Sears does not have any record of it.
Measurments are as follows, OD=45mm or 1.770", ID=25mm or .995", thickness =12mm or ,487". I was wondering if you had or know of some place I could get the seal? As this is my first PM I am not sure if I am doing it right. Incase it is wrong my email is [email protected]. Thanking you in advance Tony

 

[Hiball]

Greetings: It is 2/1/2012 and I have been reading your article on jack rebuild. I have a 2 ton Sears floor jack #328.12030 and it quit holding up and would slowly sink down. I read your article and followed it and when I got it taken apart, I found the main seal which is some kind of plastic to be cracked and chipped. The seal looks like a thick cup with no "o" ring and it seems to be made of some type of hard rubber or plastic. I cannot find the manual and the jack is so old Sears does not have any record of it.
Measurments are as follows, OD=45mm or 1.770", ID=25mm or .995", thickness =12mm or ,487". I was wondering if you had or know of some place I could get the seal? As this is my first PM I am not sure if I am doing it right. Incase it is wrong my email is [email protected]. Thanking you in advance Tony

PM Sent...

Steven

 

[seewin]

First post here... I started rebuilding my near 40 year old NAPA Fleet floor jack this weekend. Everything went fine except for the fact I cannot get the outer tube to seal around the upper nut. Is there some trick. It does not appear there was ever any type of seal. Does it just seal metal to metal? Thought about putting just a very small amount of silicone gasket seal at mating surfaces. Any ideas?
Thanks, steve

 

[Hiball]

First post here... I started rebuilding my near 40 year old NAPA Fleet floor jack this weekend. Everything went fine except for the fact I cannot get the outer tube to seal around the upper nut. Is there some trick. It does not appear there was ever any type of seal. Does it just seal metal to metal? Thought about putting just a very small amount of silicone gasket seal at mating surfaces. Any ideas?
Thanks, steve

Loctite 518 for All Metal to Metal surfaces.

 

[LeRoy_Far]

Thanks to this tutorial and the parts Hiball was able to provide my 27 year old sears 3 ton floor jack lives again. Thank you!

 

[wayne55]

I have a small Sears bottle jack with a slight seepage where the metal cylinder contacts the base. When I disassembled, I could see there was no gasket there or even any sealant. So this is where you could use the loctite to ensure a good seal??

 

[Hiball]

I have a small Sears bottle jack with a slight seepage where the metal cylinder contacts the base. When I disassembled, I could see there was no gasket there or even any sealant. So this is where you could use the loctite to ensure a good seal??

Yes.. Loctite 518 Anaerobic Gasket Maker is Awesome for Metal to Metal Sealant.

 

[djrobert]

Really great thread!
I have an old allied hydraulic 2 ton I bought at price club probably 25 years ago.
It seems to lift OK, But doesn't reliably release (retract). I'm thinking that I have some debris or maybe pieces of a seal blocking the passage in the base casting going to the release valve. I've checked all the valves and all seem to be in order. Am I on the right track? I suspect that I will be replacing the seals anyway.
Any insight would be much appreciated
Dale
I disassembled the piston today and found some sludge and particles of what seems to have been an end cup type seal. no sign of an O-ring at the end of the ram.

 

[abrankhalid]

HiBall , you the man ! You are the reason i joined this forum. I have read through almost all the posts on this thread and am so impressed that you have kept on with helping people out for the last 2 years !
I am hoping you would do a bit of the same for me ! I tried to fix my 3.5 ton Craftsman jack. Its made in china and its a bit preplexing . The Jack got stuck in a slightly raised position. No matter how much i have mucked about with the valves or screws, its not helping. SO i thought maybe some of the seals in side the jack gave disintegrated and are clogging some valves.


I was trying to release and open up the valves and in doing so i accidently let all the ball bearing and springs fall out ! I did get them all back but i now dont know which go where and in what order.

Any sight would be great. I am looking for a pipe wrench for opening up the ram nut on the top . Hopefully i can borrow it from my neighbor

I will try to post pictures of the parts as well. The jack model ( it might not mean much ) is 214 50145 . It has a pin type release valve ( kind of forms a thick needle that screws in to the jack. There are 3 other screws around it. One had one more screw deep inside it . And the other two had balls inside them ( i am not sure since they popped out together when i tried to take them out one at a time ).

Thanks in advance.