Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

[BigMac38]

****. Any advice on how to include images?

 

[454ragtop]

****. Any advice on how to include images?

Scroll down below the quick reply box and click on the "go advanced" button. When that screen opens, scroll down to where it says "Manage Attachments".
Click on that, and load your pics. It's really simple once you've done it a time or 2. Oh, and welcome to GJ.

 

[iloveusatools]

Hi, I rebuilt my Blue-Point YA1642 2-ton floor jack (Hein Werner winner series). After tearing it down I observed that the ram cup seal was definitely toast so I replaced that along with all other O-rings.

The trouble I had during reassembly was with the O-rings and o-ring backup spacers in the pump valve. How the heck do you squeeze all that in there? (from top to bottom mine goes: o-ring spacer/o-ring/o-ring spacer/o-ring) *I'm testing the jack after reassembly with only the O-rings in place in the pump valve*

I filled the jack with oil just above the inner cylinder and bleed the pump of air through the oil fill port.

The jack will not pump with the release valve closed UNLESS I manually lift the jack arm. Then it works fine. Once I lifted the arm up manually I closed the release valve and I can pump it up, or let it down by opening the release valve. BUT once the arm goes down completely with the release valve open I can't pump it back up with the release valve closed. Any help is greatly appreciated. thank you

 

[LeWidget]

Hi Guys,

Whilst Googling service information on a floor jack I'm trying to fix, I came across this well written and awesome thread. So I decided to sign up in the hopes I could get some expert advice on how to go about fixing this jack I have.

We've had it for many many years, though I'm really not sure on the manufacturer. It's my understanding it's a 'cheap' jack, and the hydraulic jack portion looks very very similar to the one in the original post.

I've tried Googling the model number on the jack, sf-0305001, but nothing... :/

The original issue was as I jacked it up, it would continue to leak and go down. I followed guides on bleeding the system of air.. which helped at first, then started playing up again. Bleeding wouldn't work so I replaced the o-ring on the pumping mechanism (looks like a '?', and replaced only 1 o-ring that I saw). This helped for a short period.

Frustrated, I decided to to a tear down to have an inspection and replace what I could... well I seemed to have run into an issue. Not only did I unscrew the top valves, which set loose ball bearings, springs and pointy things (I think I got them all, seen in pic).. Ill have to find a guide on how to re-install them...but.. it seems the u-cup(?) is completely destroyed.

I'm sure replacing them is straight forward.. but a couple of problems which I'm hoping someone can help with, is..

1. I don't know the model/part numbers needed for this kit :/ so I can order a replacement..

2. I'm from Australia. Unfortunately we don't seem to have a wide variety of repair kits like the U.S has.. and usually shipping can cost anywhere between $20 - $50+ from U.S > Aus

I've looked on ebay.. not much there, and very costly I searched for "floor jack repair kit"

Here's some pics, hope they help. If in need of more, let me know. The jack is currently in pieces.

Not sure if it's fixable, but I hope it is.. looks to me like it just needs a service kit of o-rings and a u-cup. This was a pretty good jack.. when it worked.. and would very much like to use it again rather than spend over $150 for a new cheap one.

Any feedback would be super.

Regards,

 

[schtoopid]

Torin Jack

I've got a Blackjack engine hoist
with a Torin T33112 jack

Its got a separate pump unit.

I broke it

I took it apart, and had some "sproing"
Think I'm missing a spring, but not sure.
Anyone have a parts diagram?

Attached are pictures.

Ive got 2 sizes of check ball. I'm pretty sure the big one and a small one go in the pressure release.
I'm pretty certain a small check ball goes in the bottom of the pump-well
But then I'm lost.

Any help would be appreciated.

Parts diagram would be awesome!

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=644614&stc=1&d=1492812503
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=644615&stc=1&d=1492812503
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=644616&stc=1&d=1492812503
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=644617&stc=1&d=1492812503

 

[toughguy]

great write up, I was able to break this jack down and find out the problem. and does anybody know what they call the broken pieces and what can I get to replace it with, thanks all.

 

[paulsomlo]

That's generally referred to as a "U-cup" seal. You specify them by OD and ID. Use a caliper and measure the ID by measuring the piston. You can get the OD by measuring the bore of the cylinder it fits into. You may also be able to specify it by the model # of the jack that it came out of.

Here's the place that forum member Hiball recommends, if you can't find it locally:

"Need a Seal Kit? Contact Hydraulic Parts Supply at 620-594-2247"

 

[toughguy]

That's generally referred to as a "U-cup" seal. You specify them by OD and ID. Use a caliper and measure the ID by measuring the piston. You can get the OD by measuring the bore of the cylinder it fits into. You may also be able to specify it by the model # of the jack that it came out of.

Here's the place that forum member Hiball recommends, if you can't find it locally:

"Need a Seal Kit? Contact Hydraulic Parts Supply at 620-594-2247"

thank you so much for your help.

 

[Khaotic]

Long overdue but as promised I will update and pleased to inform that all is well and my jack now works as new.
Changed all O-rings (kept old U-cup, backups at pump, balls & copper shims) and it now lifts through the full pump motion that was bothering me most but it also passed overnight load test (it would drop about 1" in 3-4 hours prior) without any sign of leaks or loss of lift.
Beeing the OCD-nut that I am, I also prepped and repainted/refinished all parts to make it look brand new.
Sadly I only have one picture that will serve as the "before" pic.
Once again I want to thank Hiball for this thread, would have never attempted this without the information I found here!

 

[LeWidget]

Any ideas for post #924? Unfortunately, with me being in Australia, I'm usually unable to order in parts from the U.S (pricing and expensive postage), but will try to source something locally.

Only problem, I'm not exactly sure what parts I need. It looks like a u-cup type seal, though do they go by any other name?

Also, it looks like there's a plastic washer that sits between piston and u-cup, should that be replaced or can it be re-used ?

 

[paulsomlo]

"U-cup" should specify it pretty well. If you've got a local hydraulic supply, bring the entire hydraulic unit to them, they'll measure it.

Unless it's torn up, the plastic washer should be reusable.

 

[mobsta]

Hi LeWidget, where about in Australia you're from?

We just reconditioned our jack about two weeks ago and bought all our parts from Seal Imports. Here are their locations. http://www.sealimports.com.au/#/Content/?Id=9. I took all our parts to the Sydney branch and got all the seals from them. It all came to 35 bucks, so very happy.

I found few suppliers around the country but they were the closest to me. If you need further help please post back.

 

[LeWidget]

"U-cup" should specify it pretty well. If you've got a local hydraulic supply, bring the entire hydraulic unit to them, they'll measure it.

Unless it's torn up, the plastic washer should be reusable.

Thanks Paul. Yeh, I probably should have worded it different, though wasn't 100% sure if it uses the U-Cup style seal or whether someone knew if it was something else.

Ill jump onto Google and see if there's any Hydraulic places about, see what they say

 

[mobsta]

Ill jump onto Google and see if there's any Hydraulic places about, see what they say

Here is a place in Australia you can get parts from

http://www.sealimports.com.au/#/Content/?Id=9

 

[L5wolvesf]

Great write ups guys, thank you for the time it took to do them. If it isn't a sticky it should be.

 

[zipzit]

It looks like photobucket has changed their service to block 3rd party access to hosted photos. For nearly all photos in this thread, all I can see are gray boxes with the words "please update your account to enable 3rd party hosting" When you click on the link, you get nothing (so you can't even see the image when you are not using a 3rd party hosting). A picture is worth a 1000 words. Possible anybody has the images from the original posting downloaded somewhere?

Many thanks, Zip

 

[FlatlanderBob]

Previously posted pictures via Photobucket are now being held in ransom for a $400 annual fee. Read Below:

"It all began last week when Photobucket announced in a short blog post that it had updated its terms of service that had begun taking effect from June 20th. (2017) Nowhere in the blog post did Photobucket highlight the most important change, which was that it will now cost uploaders $400 a year to insert their photos on another website using direct image links."

Above portion of discussion quoted from www.theverge.com

 

[anyheck]

I was able to get to hiball76's album by copying a link from his post and removing the individual image filename. eg:
http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac242/hiball76

The image reconciliation is an exercise for the reader.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[Hiball]

I was able to get to hiball76's album by copying a link from his post and removing the individual image filename. eg:
http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac242/hiball76

The image reconciliation is an exercise for the reader.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

I've got the pictures saved, I'll try to get everything updated within the next couple days.

 

[Schaeff58]

Hey Hiball, would like to add another thanks for this fine tutorial that you provided. I was able to easily repair my 3 ton floor jack and put it back in service. I searched the web for just this info, and it was really the only one I could find that worked for me. I could not tell, even with a magnifying glass, the bevel on the backers for the two o rings in the pump. But I gave it my best guess and got it working!

Thanks for taking the time and effort to help us out!

Schaeff58

 

[zipzit]

So I've got a Wilmar W1634 2-1/4 ton jack. I don't think this can be saved. Two seals seem impossible to obtain:
--A wiper seal for the pump. Pump OD = 15.0mm, Seal counterbore in body = 18.0mm dia x 5mm deep. Old seal crumbled to bits (urethane?)
-- U Seal for main piston. Nitrile U cup seal approx 36x23x8mm (nylon backup ring is in good shape...) Piston OD at seal = 23.5mm, retention ridge OD = 24.7mm, Cylinder ID = 36.0mm

The rest of the seals look like plain jane O-rings. This is a oddball device. There is a pump, a spur gear release valve and one (just one) adjustable screw regulator. The pump had one ball beneath it. The release valve had one large ball and two small balls beneath it and the pressure regulator had a spring, a shaped thing on the end of the spring and one ball beneath it. The regulator was screwed tight when I checked its position. I'm pretty sure I bought this jack new in 1980, so I think I've gotten my use out of it.

I'd love to fix it, but I don't think that's in the cards. I did talk with Steve S. 620-594-2247, but he was unable to help.

My only question: Which new jack can I purchase today that will have the greatest probability of rebuild kit availability 37 years from now?

Thanks to HiBall for his work on this thread.

 

[jkw.]

Have a auto specialties, st joseph michigan, taiwan jack. Model# H-62202 hydraulic 2 ton jack.. It has been a great jack for 30 plus years. Built when they were still making them in early 80's with decent quality..

However it has started to leak, looks like from the main seal and possibly the bottom seal. has a seal on the bottom of the resevoir where the screen filter is near. Leaves a puddle on the floor after I use it.

Looks like the seal number and size is TKU 40x22x12. Have found one online but that is the only part I can find. There are quite a few more seals and orings that I would like to change while it is apart.

This has been a great jack and has been pushed beyond what it was designed for many times, never failed untill now.. Have zero interest in purchasing a harbor freight or any other of the newer jacks today. Have included some pics ,hope they will show. Anyone have any more info? thanks.

 

[jkw.]

Here are the pics.. Also the piston measures 1.261 or 32mm. It is probably 1.250 but my caliper may be a bit off? Hiball, something you stock? Is it better to just call you? Thanks for your time.

 

[Cadman56]

You might want to try these guys. https://www.hcrcnow.com/ I got a seal kit for my 1980 JC Penney floor jack from them. Kit had everything in it and the jack works like brand new now.

 

[Hiball]

Here are the pics.. Also the piston measures 1.261 or 32mm. It is probably 1.250 but my caliper may be a bit off? Hiball, something you stock? Is it better to just call you? Thanks for your time.

I’m Currently not shipping kits, in My signature is a Number to HPS. It’s not likely you will find someone more knowledgeable about Hydraulic seal kits than Steve (owner), Give him a call, do some price checking first, you will be surprised.

 

[Easydoesit]

Sorry for the dumb question but how do I view the pics at the beginning of this thread? Thx

 

[jacked_72]

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=364396

 

[Hiball]

Ive Uploaded some Pictures directly to the Site, Unfortunately everything isn't in order due to the limitations of pictures per post. I do apologize for the confusion, Hopefully you can put 2 and 2 together and get where you need to.

Steven.

 

[Easydoesit]

Thanks Hiball. Will take a look. What a scam that photo site is trying to pull!

 

[CRuby1]

Hi all. I have a Sears 328.12002 1 1/2 ton green jack, very similar to the one in the tutorial, that I'm rebuilding for the 1st time after many decades of use. 2 questions:
1. How do I remove the large diameter reservoir tank? I was able to remove the main nut & hydraulic ram with its busted seal packing, but can't seem to budge the reservoir loose.

2. Where to get new oil strainer screens? My seal kit did not include the oil strainers screens. So far I see there are 2 of them in my jack. One is crushed into the bottom center hole of the main cylinder ram, down by the busted packing seal. I suspect it got crushed by interference with chunks of the broken seal when the piston was all the way down. Doesn't seem to be reusable. The 2nd one appears to be pressed into the base, but I can't get the reservoir off to get access to it.

Thanks & great tutorial, but I couldn't find info on the above questions. (But maybe I missed it in the 949 threads).
CRuby

 

[HCRCnow]

Hi all. I have a Sears 328.12002 1 1/2 ton green jack, very similar to the one in the tutorial, that I'm rebuilding for the 1st time after many decades of use. 2 questions:
1. How do I remove the large diameter reservoir tank? I was able to remove the main nut & hydraulic ram with its busted seal packing, but can't seem to budge the reservoir loose.

2. Where to get new oil strainer screens? My seal kit did not include the oil strainers screens. So far I see there are 2 of them in my jack. One is crushed into the bottom center hole of the main cylinder ram, down by the busted packing seal. I suspect it got crushed by interference with chunks of the broken seal when the piston was all the way down. Doesn't seem to be reusable. The 2nd one appears to be pressed into the base, but I can't get the reservoir off to get access to it.

Thanks & great tutorial, but I couldn't find info on the above questions. (But maybe I missed it in the 949 threads).
CRuby

Hi, Not all of the 328’s have removable oil tanks. I have included a link to a drawing of a non removable tank. A way to determine if your tank is non removable is by a welt at the seam between the tank and block.
https://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/Sears_328.12000_Hydraulic_Floor_Jack_2_Ton.pdf

 

[CRuby1]

A way to determine if your tank is non removable is by a welt at the seam between the tank and block.

I assume you meant weld & not "welt". I don't see any weld at the base of the tank & the block. See attached pics. There appears to be a uniform ring at the base, but it's certainly not a weld. Is this ring what you referring to as the "welt"?

Your linked figure is very similar to one for my jack. AND they don't show the tank removed. I initially was thinking the tank could be removed to get to the strainer 6-3 part. Are you familiar with tanks that look like mine & certain they aren't meant to be separated? At this point I'm thinking to leave it in place & just get to replacing the other parts. Don't want to break this joint unnecessarily !
CRuby1

 

[HCRCnow]

I assume you meant weld & not "welt". I don't see any weld at the base of the tank & the block. See attached pics. There appears to be a uniform ring at the base, but it's certainly not a weld. Is this ring what you referring to as the "welt"?

Your linked figure is very similar to one for my jack. AND they don't show the tank removed. I initially was thinking the tank could be removed to get to the strainer 6-3 part. Are you familiar with tanks that look like mine & certain they aren't meant to be separated? At this point I'm thinking to leave it in place & just get to replacing the other parts. Don't want to break this joint unnecessarily !
CRuby1

Nope, I mean welt. Your jack has a welt and the tank will not be removable.

 

[roadrunner255]

I.have the same jack, any quick fix suggestions for a slow leak down when the jack is pumped up and a little fluid leak on the floor?
Thanks

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Hiball]

I.have the same jack, any quick fix suggestions for a slow leak down when the jack is pumped up and a little fluid leak on the floor?
Thanks

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Nope.. Tear it down and put eyes on seal components.

 

[CRuby1]

So I'm rebuilding my sears 328.12002 and changing all seals, but the 10-2 O-ring seal on the release valve seems easier said than done. How do you replace this o-ring? It wasn't leaking at time of disassembly, but I'd like to change all seals while I have it disassembled.

 

[HCRCnow]

So I'm rebuilding my sears 328.12002 and changing all seals, but the 10-2 O-ring seal on the release valve seems harder said than done. How do you replace this o-ring? It wasn't leaking at time of disassembly, but I'd like to change all seals while I have it disassembled.

If your jack is not leaking from this location, leave it alone. The only time fluid is at this location is on release. (and not under pressure)

 

[CRuby1]

Thanks. Good to know, as it looks like a welded assembly. After teardown of my jack it appears that all I really needed was the U seal on the piston, but changed all other removable seals because I bought the kit. Re-assembly now to begin!

 

[kduniverse]

Has anyone attempted a rebuild on an AC Hydraulics jack? Specifically Dk20. I have had this "project" going on for a while now, and have yet to find any decent instructions. I had the rebuild kit from Pelican Parts for this specific model, but again, no instruction. I think I have it together as it should be, but not sure how to refill. The limited instructions they do show, there's a refill plug in the side of the cylinder tube. Well....that doesn't exist. Any ideas? Thanks,

 

[Hiball]

Has anyone attempted a rebuild on an AC Hydraulics jack? Specifically Dk20. I have had this "project" going on for a while now, and have yet to find any decent instructions. I had the rebuild kit from Pelican Parts for this specific model, but again, no instruction. I think I have it together as it should be, but not sure how to refill. The limited instructions they do show, there's a refill plug in the side of the cylinder tube. Well....that doesn't exist. Any ideas? Thanks,

I’m not real familiar with the AC lineup, but a quick look at there manual claims the hydraulic unit must be “demounted”, Assuming that means it needs to be removed from the frame to re-fill. Is there a hole in the frame that lines up with the plug?