I will agree that they make splitting wood faster and easier, but the novelty wears off after the ten millionth log. Growing up, we used wood pretty much exclusively to heat our house and usually tried to have at least 10 cords ready to go each fall, but some years, that wasn't even enough.
Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT Quonset Hut Garage Build
- Thread starter dwysywd
- Start date
Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
I will agree that they make splitting wood faster and easier, but the novelty wears off after the ten millionth log. Growing up, we used wood pretty much exclusively to heat our house and usually tried to have at least 10 cords ready to go each fall, but some years, that wasn't even enough.
jbmatth
Well-known member
I was in the same boat bdbecker, we would have family tree cutting parties every year, I looked forward to being old enough to use the splitting maul so I didn't have to use the hatchet to trim off the smaller limbs and haul all of the cut and split logs. I shouldn't have wanted to grow up so fast. I've only gotten to use a log splitter once and it was way more fun. We have used gas for the last 16 years and I actually don't even own a maul.
JB
JB
I used wood exclusively for 2 years when I lived in VA. It would get almost as cold as MI where I lived in the mountains. I think I went through about 3 cords each year. I was buying not cutting at the time. Now I'm burning wood to heat the barn only. The motivation for this purchase was my neighbor and I cut wood together and this was an easy way to help us both split right onsite where we cut. Reducing the times we needed to move the wood.
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There's a story here, I promise. I have a nice little video I will upload tomorrow. This sorta worked and I have more R&D I need to do to pull this off correctly.
Bucket from Lowes....$2
Sump pump from CL ....$35
Pipe & Fittings ... $13
Rocks & Gravel ... already had them
Being able to pump the water from the hut, priceless...too bad it didn't work as well as I wanted it to! Time to improve the concept.
More to come...
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jbmatth
Well-known member
Looking forward to seeing this thing keeping your shop dry. Something I found the other day was this thread:
Welcome......To Odd Acres
He had similar leaking issues with a nearly identical building and was able to solve them. Good luck,
JB
Welcome......To Odd Acres
He had similar leaking issues with a nearly identical building and was able to solve them. Good luck,
JB
JB that's a great link! I also found this one http://quonsetman.blogspot.com/2012/06/waterproofing-base-plate.html?m=1
I have 5 gallons of waterproofing my buddy gave me and need to buy the material to inlay on top. I'm going to try this. I will read the link you sent before I do anything to make sure I didn't miss something.
The cement I put down did help! I'm going to finish the job today I hope. Got a water pressure tank and healing elements in my house system that I have to do today too.
Update coming.
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So the outside edge of quanset huts have these troughs where the hoop panels set in and are bolted to the base plate and footer. It is recommended to fill with concrete. I finally finished the concrete. After lots of reading I think my water leaks are limited to these concrete bases. My roof doesn't leak because when I assembled my hut we siliconed every seam. So, next I'm water proofing the concrete troughs per the blog I posted above. And hopefully after that I'm putting in my door threshold concrete so I get a nice seal before spring rains start. Pics coming later today.
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Hello! 
Thanks for that link to the blog. I have been following this thread since you started and will continue to follow along here.
Remember, lots of pictures.
Thanks for that link to the blog. I have been following this thread since you started and will continue to follow along here.
Remember, lots of pictures.
txvwnut
Well-known member
In your first pic it looks like there are a couple of screws poking from inside to out. Those can be a spot for water penetration as there is nothing sealing those threads.
Yeah. Those are. Or screws. They are mud or concrete splatter. But all the bolts used had washers.
On another note, it's good to have friends with money to burn. My buddy had this 60" plasma. It had a horizontal line. So he bought a new tv. And his old one was gratis to me!
And I split some wood with the new to me wood splitter i built the trailer for.
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On another note, it's good to have friends with money to burn. My buddy had this 60" plasma. It had a horizontal line. So he bought a new tv. And his old one was gratis to me!
And I split some wood with the new to me wood splitter i built the trailer for.
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jbmatth
Well-known member
Nice score on the free TV, that will help fight boredom in the shop. LOL
JB
JB
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yeah. It was pretty sweet deal ~ free!. It has a horizontal line across the screen but nbd. Spent all weekend laying wood in my master bedroom. LoL. That sounded funny. But it's true and I have pictures to prove it. Lacking on QBT all weekend. 
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Finally, finally, finally!!!! Done with the addition today! 10 pieces stand between me, a cold beer and finished! Plus i have a gift from my buddy that needs to go up in the hut. More pictures to come today. But here is one of the TV mounted. 
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LoL. I thought I was done with the addition. I forgot how much time finish work takes. Here is what I've done. As soon as I am completely done with my addition, I get back to finishing my floor and spray foam the hut. More to come I promise!
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Actually the 2nd house is a vacation spot and it has a 2 bedroom and full bath upstairs that my daughter and friends are renting for college. It's 4 miles from her school about 3 hrs from where we live. And the main floor has a studio 200 sq ft apt with full bath and laundry as well in the same house. So we keep that for vaca. I started my renovations this week and have most of the big ones done.
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I will get some pictures posted.
NOW back to the hut! I have started emptying the hut out to start my concrete. I have almost everything out. Hopefully tomorrow it will be empty or close to it. Then I need to pull my rubber membrane off the dirt. Get the dirt to dry up an it and bobcat it out. Next I need to order my pex and Insullation for the floor. I can't wait! And I'm also plumbing a drain rail center hut and a wash sink and urinal. My ultimate goal is in next 5-6!weeks have it poured.
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NOW back to the hut! I have started emptying the hut out to start my concrete. I have almost everything out. Hopefully tomorrow it will be empty or close to it. Then I need to pull my rubber membrane off the dirt. Get the dirt to dry up an it and bobcat it out. Next I need to order my pex and Insullation for the floor. I can't wait! And I'm also plumbing a drain rail center hut and a wash sink and urinal. My ultimate goal is in next 5-6!weeks have it poured.
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice job on the remodel!
So floor is prepped for concrete. Pex pipe and Insullation is laid. I installed a floor and sink drain. They are under the Insullation. And I put 4 junction boxes in the floor for some LeD lights. Finally, just need to add a few floor anchors. 3-4" steel pipe section with chain in them as an anchor point.
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txvwnut
Well-known member
For you anchor pots make a drawing of where you want them then put them in the concrete after you pour while they are finishing it. I put mine in first and some of them got pushed down during the pour and I had to chip them out.
jbmatth
Well-known member
Will the LED lights be in the floor or just to supply power to lights?
JB
JB
jbmatth
Well-known member
Woo Hoo I was an inspiration to someone, that is kinda scary to think about. LOL If you plan to have a 2 post lift I would make sure the pex isn't where the pads will be, if you have a 4 post that isn't bolted down it won't be an issue. Excited to see how they come out.
JB
JB
Growlertdi
Well-known member
looking great. I bet the concrete adds a lot of value to the hut. do you plan to add a lift in the future?
make sure you do a very detailed drawing of where you have your PEX lines so that you dont hit one when you put the lift in .
make sure you do a very detailed drawing of where you have your PEX lines so that you dont hit one when you put the lift in .
So, I have not decided on the lift yet, but I have found one that will work. Both Triumph and Autolift offer 9000 lb lifts for hobby use. I have decided to reroute the pex around the drains to accommodate a future lift. This way I know I have 18' wide area where there is absolutely NO PEX. Then I can always decide to add one at a later date.
This is the link for the lift I was considering.
https://smile.amazon.com/TRIUMPH-NT-9-9000Lbs-Floor-Plate/dp/B00QHEUULM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500215485&sr=8-1&keywords=9000+lift
I will post some final prep pictures tonight. I have to finish cleaning up the footer edges... we were a little sloppy when pouring the footers and now it is creating extra work. We do it nice cause we do it twice!
Here is some video footage in time-lapse:
This is the link for the lift I was considering.
https://smile.amazon.com/TRIUMPH-NT-9-9000Lbs-Floor-Plate/dp/B00QHEUULM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500215485&sr=8-1&keywords=9000+lift
I will post some final prep pictures tonight. I have to finish cleaning up the footer edges... we were a little sloppy when pouring the footers and now it is creating extra work. We do it nice cause we do it twice!
Here is some video footage in time-lapse:
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jbmatth
Well-known member
Something to consider about the floor plate lift is the trouble rolling non-running vehicles over it, that and too boxes, jacks, trans jacks, etc. can get annoying but should be easily figured out.
JB
JB
poured and power troweled. I will post more pics tomorrow. Floor is between 6"- 7" thick with a 3"-4" slope to the drain. long story but it had to do with my footings again. so if you have read this far, you know I did the footing with the help of a few buddies. nothing like saving a buck... that has now cost me $1700. $1200 for the footing mistake and another $500 to bring the thickness up to cover the footing mistake and keep my concrete floor from being too thin in fringe edge areas. So, I have 4000 psi concrete with fiberglass mesh. I rerouted the heated floor pex to accommodate the future possibility of a lift. I realized I cannot put a floor plate lift in because of my slop to the drain and the fact that it would have to go directly over the drain. So I am back to measuring the height of my ceiling to see if I can fit one with a top bar. Unfortunately, the free standing MAXJACK which was what I really want, is not strong enough to lift my Super Duty.
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Well never the less, its still exciting once you have a floor that's all solid and can now be swept. Start spending big money to cover the floor with all the expensive tools, like lifts, tool boxes and shelves. Looks good, happy for ya.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Now there's a milestone for ya!
Congrats!
Congrats!
jbmatth
Well-known member
Congrats on the new floor!
JB
JB
JB, what kind of lights did you use? I was considering using these bc they are only $11 pair : https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0...tDescription_secondary_view_div_1501622635443
jbmatth
Well-known member
I used these Lights I used 6 and love the color but in reality they just don't quite put out enough light compared to working on top in my shop, but are much better than nothing. I'd probably replace them with 20w or so if I had to.
JB
EDIT: I went with 120v so I wouldn't have to have a transformer to convert to low voltage wiring.
JB
EDIT: I went with 120v so I wouldn't have to have a transformer to convert to low voltage wiring.
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