Shanewinters156
Member
Thanks , I'll have to get some on the truck . Really I just have a tool addiction and have to make stuff to justify it to the wife .haha
Show us your welding projects
- Thread starter neonnblack
- Start date
Thanks , I'll have to get some on the truck . Really I just have a tool addiction and have to make stuff to justify it to the wife .haha
4 FN 27
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Wanted a better headache rack than I could buy . I'm happy with it . Would do a few things differently if I build another but fair enough
Very nice work!!! The reason we have Revision Levels...
Yet another Fabricator!!!
Ha!, that's the moto for 95% of the guys here.
The rack is very cool, nice job and welcome aboard.
That's cool Eric. What size are those?
Finally putting handrails on the back steps, 1x1 posts with 3/8 pencil rod. The 1/8 top cap will get covered wood. I'm not going to admit how many years ago I built the deck.
That's certainly unique and very cool. Did you drill the posts for the pencil rod or weld each **** end? How are you going to form the wood? That's something I've never attempted but would like to some day.
Thanks LX,
I drilled the posts from both sides and used a tapered ream to align them a little oversize. I don't have the equipment to drill an angled hole thru stainless tubing.
I will make the cap with 3 steam bent rips that will be bolted together with *** bolts. Unfortunately Cumaru can't be glued, it's too oily.
I drilled the posts from both sides and used a tapered ream to align them a little oversize. I don't have the equipment to drill an angled hole thru stainless tubing.
I will make the cap with 3 steam bent rips that will be bolted together with *** bolts. Unfortunately Cumaru can't be glued, it's too oily.
royce
Well-known member
Firstram,
That staircase and rail is great looking.
Those curved stair cases are a interesting study of layout, with the radius of the curve and the different pitches of the inner and outer rails.
Nicely done and look forward to seeing the caps.
Royce
That staircase and rail is great looking.
Those curved stair cases are a interesting study of layout, with the radius of the curve and the different pitches of the inner and outer rails.
Nicely done and look forward to seeing the caps.
Royce
Thanks Royce,
I appreciate the complement, especially from the internet winning big vise builder. Curved rails are not hard, just time consuming. Small steel does not need to be bent on a helix, a simple radius will take the shape lust fine.
I appreciate the complement, especially from the internet winning big vise builder. Curved rails are not hard, just time consuming. Small steel does not need to be bent on a helix, a simple radius will take the shape lust fine.
I think they were either 18 or 19mm. The ones I used previously were 12 or 13 mm. The decision on the size was merely what I found the same size of. They were $1.98 each and the spacers, 49¢ each.
https://www.glenssurplus.com/
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Slew, what are we looking at here?I welded a custom brace for the bottom of each stair. It could have been so simple... I nearly killed the volunteer cutting out stair treads when I found out he was not making them all the same
27' double helix.
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
An epic bonfire waiting to happen. 2 carpenter friends an I were stairs team.
bondough
Member
Mersedes-Benz w124 1jz-gte Cooling
Very nice work!
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
AAHH! Ok.
4 FN 27
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Very nice work!!!
4 FN 27
ALLIANCE MEMBER
In anticipation of a new Water Jet coming I made some weights from some Bar Stock I found laying on the floor under the Shear at the plant to hold the blanks down. Got 3 of 4 done and could not for the f'ing life of me find the 4th handle. Looked for an hour and a half...found it on the Vise on the Mill.
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thanks! I should also mention that the Light panel I built to hold the LED "Fluorescent" tubes for the lighting, was not welded in or even welded in any way, I used solid aircraft rivets to assemble that part.
Sorry no pics of that.
mr_magicfingers
Well-known member
I welded a custom brace for the bottom of each stair. It could have been so simple... I nearly killed the volunteer cutting out stair treads when I found out he was not making them all the same
27' double helix.
Took barely a fraction of a second to know where that was without ever having seen it before. It's been 11 years since I was last in the dust. I do miss the amazing things everyone builds out there. Nowhere else like it.
made some bed rails for my truck. The up-right bars behind the cab were there when I purchased the truck, I just made the rails on top of the bed sides.
Flat bar is 3/16", tubing is 1.75" .120 wall HREW
How did you make these? Use a hand held tubing bender?
Seems like I can see press brake marks on it.
Can you please explain? I'm thinking this but its probably wrong. Just put tubing over a piece of metal and press it down?
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2004.5cumminsman
Well-known member
They look like saftey chain weld on hangers found at most trailer aupply stores
Richard D
Well-known member
I will have comment about this later.
I have one of those from swag offroad for my harbor freight press
2004.5cumminsman
Well-known member
They are garbage, yes. Just calling a spade a spade. Trailer i build i slot cut plate then double sheer a bolt for holders
bggrnchvy
Well-known member
Richard D
Well-known member
That's what D.O.T. told us we needed when I upgraded the chains on all our custom built trailers, and NOT to weld the chains on. The two factory made trailers we recently got, have those little shaped bars as above. I found that a bit odd. They seem like they would be good for tie-downs as in the photo, however.
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DocsMachine
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2006
- Messages
- 1,846
I showed the stand I made for my 2 x 72" belt grinder back in Post # 5616:
I just added a rack, as planned, to the open bottom section to hold the extra tooling arms:
Came out nicely, and still holds them securely even when the cart is kicked forward to move it around like a hand truck. Plus the extra ballast down low adds some stability and makes it feel more "solid" in use.
Doc.
I just added a rack, as planned, to the open bottom section to hold the extra tooling arms:
Came out nicely, and still holds them securely even when the cart is kicked forward to move it around like a hand truck. Plus the extra ballast down low adds some stability and makes it feel more "solid" in use.
Doc.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Very nice addition to the cart Doc.
What lighting packages do you typically use for your indoor and outdoor signs?
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Various... This was U shaped LED flo tubes, T-8 type, which I use most often for exterior we also have used other LED light bars with various colors for exterior signs... and specialty high intensity light bars for some art walls 8'x5'x3' light boxes...
We call up the LED place in town and see what they have that we can use...
I am working on a project now and the customer is supplying lighting modules to go behind it. I haven’t done much with lighting myself.
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Nope I could never use something like that, I have strip LEDs that are just "OK" for small stuff, I have Bright White STRIP LED on a spool reel off what you need and stick it down, the adhesive is somewhat crappy... Soooo I use better stuff...
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This is about 9' long I think it was actually larger than that, the lettering has frosted 1/4" acrylic inside, the sign is about 2" tall ish.. and 1" Thick, the lighting is a "Flourescent" tube 8' long, just one lighting the entire thing (exterior sign just single white, On your example I would probably use Frosted Acrylic to catch the light and the place I use locally would probably have plenty of options the tubes I use are ballast free and just 120VAC input on one end, USUALLY though I do have some single pin tubes that have Hot on one end and Neutral on the other. if you use 120VAC stuff do be sure you ground the "Chassis" to earth.
