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OccupantRJ
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Blast cabinet media for thin sheet metal.
The Abrasive Blasting Resource Thread
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OccupantRJ
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Sandblast cabinet-what media?
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Sandblast cabinet -what media
I've been using walnut shells recently, I'm a fan so far, cleans items without too much abrasion. I was blasting the edges of some olive wood slabs tonight, worked great on those too.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Texas Blaster review.
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My review on the 'Texas Blaster'.
For a couple of years I've been using my 90lb HF blaster. It barely worked out of the box. Then I made some mods and it worked much better but really, it's only good for blasting parts. Rearend housings, suspension pieces, brackets, etc. It'd blast for a little while then it'd clog. Got to...
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Sandblast Dust.
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Sandblast Dust
Using a shop vac but have to clean the filter every 20 minutes. Some dust escaping, using glass beads. Need something better and not crazy expensive.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Sandblasting questions.
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Sandblasting question
I recently set up a sandblasting station and begun cleaning up some parts. It's my first time doing it and I have no previous experience. I was blasting fine for a few days with this cabinet. I had 50 lbs of aluminum oxide in it. The gun I'm using is Campbell Hausfeld AT122601AV I found that...
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Bead Blasting Help
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Bead Blasting Help
I am bead blasting cast aluminum with #10 glass bead. The aluminum is bubbling and then pits form. I’m also getting squiggly lines in the metal. I’m running at 50psi and have dry air. What might be causing this. Anyway to fix it? I’m worried it may have ruined my piece.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Air compressor sizing for cabinet blasting.
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Looking to run a blast cabinet. Can I get away with this air compressor?
I have recently purchased the Skat Blast 960-DLX blast cabinet as part of a small rim refinishing operation. Looking at the specs page, the cabinet requires 10-15 CFM at 80 PSI, with a maximum of 125 PSI. I have been considering two air compressors: the Quincy 3.5-HP 60-Gallon Single-Stage Air...
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chumly2071
Member
Not sure if this is the proper thread or not, but here goes.
I got a HF type floor standing blast cabinet from Vevor with their included dust collector/cyclone.
I did the bottom mounted siphon/metering valve mod, added 3 daisy chained 24" LED lights from Amazon (mounted on heavy magnets, to facilitate removal/changeout without drilling holes in the box) on the top rear, right hand, and front above the glove openings. Also another magnet with hook to hang the additional blow off gun I added inside the cabinet (counter tempt item at HF). I started out trying the supplied gun. Fiddling with the settings, It worked, but poorly (using TSC sourced black diamond fine coal slag media).
I ended up ordering a TP tools medium gun. It MADE the difference. it isn't fast, and I may still need to try the small tips and orifices (60 gallon CH compressor, generously rated at 14 cfm@90 psi (I have doubts)), but it took scaly rusty metal from outside and turned it to white metal without serious effort or time.
The dust collection add on works very well so far. No issues with cloudy work area in the cabinet.
Some things I'd recommend:
Use a tank bulkhead fitting like this, instead of some of the janky box store things I've seen. Low profile, and comes with a heavy rubber gasket to seal with (Stainless not necessary).
Jump immediately to a quality gun/nozzle from the supplier of your choice.
Take 3 minutes, and pull the inlet filter off your compressor, and at least blow it out, if not replace it. Wow. I had no idea mine was that plugged, but it made the compressor seemingly double it's output of CFM. Way overdue, and bad on my part for neglecting it. Recovery time improved very noticeably.
I have a lot to learn and try, but so far, I think this will meet my hobby needs.
Hope this helps.
Edit:
some of my parts I used:
Cabinet I started with (cheaper to buy separately, but the dust collector was out of stock by itself when I ordered). Free shipping.
Magnets to hang the lights
Lights
1/4" bulkhead for the air supply line (may be better to use 3/8")
Magnetic hook to hang the blow gun
Air hoses inside the cabinet
Elbow wye inside for air
I got a HF type floor standing blast cabinet from Vevor with their included dust collector/cyclone.
I did the bottom mounted siphon/metering valve mod, added 3 daisy chained 24" LED lights from Amazon (mounted on heavy magnets, to facilitate removal/changeout without drilling holes in the box) on the top rear, right hand, and front above the glove openings. Also another magnet with hook to hang the additional blow off gun I added inside the cabinet (counter tempt item at HF). I started out trying the supplied gun. Fiddling with the settings, It worked, but poorly (using TSC sourced black diamond fine coal slag media).
I ended up ordering a TP tools medium gun. It MADE the difference. it isn't fast, and I may still need to try the small tips and orifices (60 gallon CH compressor, generously rated at 14 cfm@90 psi (I have doubts)), but it took scaly rusty metal from outside and turned it to white metal without serious effort or time.
The dust collection add on works very well so far. No issues with cloudy work area in the cabinet.
Some things I'd recommend:
Use a tank bulkhead fitting like this, instead of some of the janky box store things I've seen. Low profile, and comes with a heavy rubber gasket to seal with (Stainless not necessary).
Jump immediately to a quality gun/nozzle from the supplier of your choice.
Take 3 minutes, and pull the inlet filter off your compressor, and at least blow it out, if not replace it. Wow. I had no idea mine was that plugged, but it made the compressor seemingly double it's output of CFM. Way overdue, and bad on my part for neglecting it. Recovery time improved very noticeably.
I have a lot to learn and try, but so far, I think this will meet my hobby needs.
Hope this helps.
Edit:
some of my parts I used:
Cabinet I started with (cheaper to buy separately, but the dust collector was out of stock by itself when I ordered). Free shipping.
Magnets to hang the lights
Lights
1/4" bulkhead for the air supply line (may be better to use 3/8")
Magnetic hook to hang the blow gun
Air hoses inside the cabinet
Elbow wye inside for air
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
@chumly2071, Good information, and thank you for contributing to the thread. I want everyone who reads the thread to have a blast!
hi all- my first post here. Have learned a ton and hoping to learn some more.
Next week I am pulling the bed on my 2002 F250 to needle scale and (possibly) media blast the frame and suspension components. I have a Makita Mac5200 5 gallon 6.5cfm @ 90psi compressor but its been too small to continuously run my needle scaler.
I decided to rent a compressor for 2 full days from home depot that is gas powered 8.5 gallon 13.5cfm at 90. While its somewhat underpowered I figured I could run both simultaneously and take some wear off my personal.
1. Is this rental too small to media blast with?
2. If Im leaving the cab on and engine in what are some places I should plastic off to protect? I planned to protect the whole engine bay, both diff seals, and the wheels and wheel bearings.
3. Planned to use medium black diamond abrasive from TSC
4. What should I top coat the frame with if I sandblast?
5. What should I coat the frame with if I grind the rust down and use corroseal rust converter and primer?
Next week I am pulling the bed on my 2002 F250 to needle scale and (possibly) media blast the frame and suspension components. I have a Makita Mac5200 5 gallon 6.5cfm @ 90psi compressor but its been too small to continuously run my needle scaler.
I decided to rent a compressor for 2 full days from home depot that is gas powered 8.5 gallon 13.5cfm at 90. While its somewhat underpowered I figured I could run both simultaneously and take some wear off my personal.
1. Is this rental too small to media blast with?
2. If Im leaving the cab on and engine in what are some places I should plastic off to protect? I planned to protect the whole engine bay, both diff seals, and the wheels and wheel bearings.
3. Planned to use medium black diamond abrasive from TSC
4. What should I top coat the frame with if I sandblast?
5. What should I coat the frame with if I grind the rust down and use corroseal rust converter and primer?
Rent a 90 cfm or larger diesel powered one and a commercial pressure blast pot. Spend the money on a good rental setup, this way you're the only hold up and not the lack of air.
Cardboard/tape everything you don't want full of media, use good PPE.
Cardboard/tape everything you don't want full of media, use good PPE.
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Thank you
Look on Youtube, should be a handful of people that have done this. Not sure where you're located but humidity will come into play and blasting makes a huge mess. Can you post some pictures of the work you want blasted?
If I couldn't blast at this rate I wouldn't want to do it.
If I couldn't blast at this rate I wouldn't want to do it.
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BillK
Well-known member
I think you will be sorry you ever started 
Been there, done that as they say. If there is anyone in your area that does it commercially then take it to them and pay them.
Been there, done that as they say. If there is anyone in your area that does it commercially then take it to them and pay them.Bill Bowman
Well-known member
A rather ambitious project to undertake in a 2 days time period. You might be better off investigating a commercial blasting service. Either soda or sand.
Strouty
Well-known member
RJ, I saw you had done some testing with water injection, did you ever do anything further? I am will need to keep the dust down and it seems like a good idea. Clemco offers a full fancy upgrade to my pot, but it is $5k I have seen the ones that mix downstream and I think that is an awful idea. My local guy has one that mixes at the end of the hose and doesn't use a pressure washer, guessing it will pull do to Venturi effect?? That is about $700 and then there is a pressure washer based unit that injects right at the end of the line, this one was somewhere closer to $500. Any thoughts? Or anyone else have any input or experience?
Pressure washer injector
Pressure washer injector
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I was playing with injecting air at an abrasive mix valve to improve general flow. I have an attachment for wet blasting with a pressure washer, but I was less than impressed by it. It could likely be improved by using a HF blaster pot at a very low pressure to supply grit to the wet blast nozzle versus trying to essentially **** sand out of a bucket.
Strouty
Well-known member
I had a correction on my post, it was $500 not $1500 for the pressure washer attachment. The pressure washer units that **** sand up are no fun, we tried that too. It worked, but you were constantly fighting the clogging.
I am only talking about using a pressure pot style and then injecting water right at the end. I also some some adapters on eBay that were even cheaper.
I am only talking about using a pressure pot style and then injecting water right at the end. I also some some adapters on eBay that were even cheaper.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I was getting to about that point with my portable sandblasting rig and 110 cfm compressor when I started having trouble with my knees from arthritis, so ended up selling the rig. I do think that injecting water at the output at a very acute angle very close to the blast nozzle would be a very feasible thing to do.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Strouty, in my opinion, starting the blast flow before opening the water valve would be critical to keep water from migrating into the grit hose. Conversely, closing the water valve before stopping grit flow would also apply.
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Strouty
Well-known member
That makes perfect sense, I am going to talk to the manufacturer of the pressure washer unit and then see if the local guy has anyone that purchased the unit he sells, would be nice to talk to a customer about this before buying it.
dkmc
Well-known member
Not a dry blast cabinet, but I picked up this pressure wash cabinet last week for $50.
Works but needs new gloves and new bulbs in the light. Uses heated water/soap solution, 500 psi pump.
These are crazier priced than Abrasive Blast cabinets, the seller said he bought this new in 1986 for $4000.
Works but needs new gloves and new bulbs in the light. Uses heated water/soap solution, 500 psi pump.
These are crazier priced than Abrasive Blast cabinets, the seller said he bought this new in 1986 for $4000.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Interesting……I have a 2 hp electric Cat pump setup in my storage barn looking for something to do. I think it is a commercial car wash pump.Not a dry blast cabinet, but I picked up this pressure wash cabinet last week for $50.
Works but needs new gloves and new bulbs in the light. Uses heated water/soap solution, 500 psi pump.
These are crazier priced than Abrasive Blast cabinets, the seller said he bought this new in 1986 for $4000.
dkmc
Well-known member
Sounds like a worthwhile project
This one uses one of the 'Hypro' piston pumps, they have been around forever
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
That is the type pump that was on my first electric pressure washer.Sounds like a worthwhile project
This one uses one of the 'Hypro' piston pumps, they have been around forever
this is a representation of the one that I have in storage.
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Strouty
Well-known member
I just bought a couple units like those, except they are hands off, you do like Ron Popeil and set it and forget it. I am converting the bigger one to single phase, bought the smaller one for parts, but it was in better shape than expected and I am going to fix it and flip it.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
My friend has a similar cleaner to that in his automotive machine shopI just bought a couple units like those, except they are hands off, you do like Ron Popeil and set it and forget it. I am converting the bigger one to single phase, bought the smaller one for parts, but it was in better shape than expected and I am going to fix it and flip it.
Strouty
Well-known member
The first one is smaller and spins the parts, the other one has a sprayer that rotates around the basket. Same manufacturer, I have almost all my parts together, just have to find the time.
dkmc
Well-known member
Always wanted one of those Cudas, but they are always pricy even used
Strouty
Well-known member
People want crazy money for them. I paid $800 for the larger one and $200 for the smaller one.
dkmc
Well-known member
Well, I'll bet ya $1000 it's a Quincy. But they all look similar thru a size range so with just that pic, no telling if it's
a 325, 340, etc. My WAG is 340-350.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Skat Blast dusting issues.
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Skat Blast cabinet vacuum upgrade
Have a large Skat Blast cabinet i just upgraded the gun to the one that consumes 25 cfm of air. I have the regular skat blast vacuum but after 30 seconds I can no longer see. Looking for a cost efficient upgrade would love the large reclaim system they have but $2500 is out of the budget...
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Pressure pot blaster ********.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/pressure-pot-blaster-********.535778/#post-10782466
oldman_pottering
Well-known member
Jumping in here as a blasting first timer
I recently purchased a cheapo cabinet (I'm guessing similar to the HF you guys get) and have made a few mods after watching YT.
This may seem crazy but I'm yet to use it as I wanted to make sure I had all my ducks in a row particularly in regards to screwing up the glass window and or the plastic disposable cover sheets (2), which came with the unit, also supplied was a sheet of some sort of plastic although I'm reasonably sure my window is glass.
I do have one plastic disposable sheet fitted to the window glass but as I took photos this morning I notice that I have the window is back to front ( the sheet is on the outside)
Do the plastic sheets do much in the way of protection ? It doesn't seem like they would.
Does anyone have any idea about the plastic sheet that looks like it could replace the original window glass ? I would think if the glass was shot I'd be better off replacing it with another sheet of glass rather than plastic.
I have added a 12v power supply to run the led light bar I mounted inside the top of the cabinet and modified the media pickup at the bottom of the unit as you can see in the pictures.
I have seen a mod to the air intake hole in the cabinet that basically stops the airflow just going straight in and straight out of the cabinet by way of a baffle plate , does anyone recommend this ?
I plan to use my dust extractor with this setup and my compressor operates at 14 cfm and the media I bought is shown in one of the photos, I plan to clean up old tools and small machinery etc
Any help / advise is appreciated
I recently purchased a cheapo cabinet (I'm guessing similar to the HF you guys get) and have made a few mods after watching YT.
This may seem crazy but I'm yet to use it as I wanted to make sure I had all my ducks in a row particularly in regards to screwing up the glass window and or the plastic disposable cover sheets (2), which came with the unit, also supplied was a sheet of some sort of plastic although I'm reasonably sure my window is glass.
I do have one plastic disposable sheet fitted to the window glass but as I took photos this morning I notice that I have the window is back to front ( the sheet is on the outside)
Do the plastic sheets do much in the way of protection ? It doesn't seem like they would.
Does anyone have any idea about the plastic sheet that looks like it could replace the original window glass ? I would think if the glass was shot I'd be better off replacing it with another sheet of glass rather than plastic.
I have added a 12v power supply to run the led light bar I mounted inside the top of the cabinet and modified the media pickup at the bottom of the unit as you can see in the pictures.
I have seen a mod to the air intake hole in the cabinet that basically stops the airflow just going straight in and straight out of the cabinet by way of a baffle plate , does anyone recommend this ?
I plan to use my dust extractor with this setup and my compressor operates at 14 cfm and the media I bought is shown in one of the photos, I plan to clean up old tools and small machinery etc
Any help / advise is appreciated
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OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
The volume of a cabinet seems to have an effect on how well the viewing window lives, along with where the fresh air intake is located in relation to the window. My larger cabinet has a narrow slot air intake port right above the viewing window which seems to help “wash” the inside of the window with intake air like an air curtain. This seems to deflect some of the media from the window. The slot has a raised metal “dam” around it’s perimeter that a perforated screen is laid in, and I use a piece of 1/8” foam air conditioning filter media on top of that to prevent fly waste from exiting in use. I use plexiglass in my window and it lasts a couple years of regular use.