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The Abrasive Blasting Resource Thread

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dkmc

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Hello RJ, good to hear from you! Sorry to hear about your 'pumping' problems, and also very glad that you've been brought back to full operating condition. The Club Car sounds like a cool project, I hope you do a thread about it? With pictures of course.

The $30 flip-flop device sounds like a nice low cost way to go.
I've always liked the idea of the 'continuous run' option some compressors have. Where they unload but continue to run, and circulate oil, and the motor fan bringing cool air thru or over the motor, thus cooling things down in maybe a bit better or more even way instead of full stop. I've got my Hydrovane set up with 'Auto-Cont. Run' ability. I will set up my Quincys that have the option the same way.

Lately, I've been hoarding Band Saws, as they have popped up cheap on Market Place and local auctions. I'm up to 11 total band saws now, and I have to just stop. I have 2 Cushman Minute Mizers and a Taylor Dunn haul truck that are projects that are similar to your Club Car. So far, one Minute Mizer has been converted to a 6.5hp Honda clone with torque converter and electric start. The most immediate projects are Skid Steer wheel motor repairs, and driveway rebuilding. Gravel isn't cheap or fun to install anymore.

Happy Thanks Giving, and Happy Holidays to you RJ, and all the Abrasive Blasting crew!
 

Charles Waugh

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Boring, OR (yes, it's called Boring!)
I have been using spent garnet that a waterjet shop nearby leaves in a huge pile in their parking lot. They'd love for me to take itall, b/c they have to pay for it to be recycled.

It cuts beautifully! It's free. It's fine grit. It's not silica so no silicosis.
Oh, they only do mild, stainless, and aluminum, so no nasty contaminants.

I used it in a little HF handheld reservoir-on-top gun and it's OK for smaller stuff.

Is there anything I'm being stupid about here?

Note: I do very little blasting so I don't need to tool up on blasting (though, of course, I'd never refuse a cabinet, etc. if someone wanted to get me a Christmas present...)
 

dkmc

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Oh, they only do mild, stainless, and aluminum, so no nasty contaminants.

I think EPA wise, in most states these days, the steel, stainless, and alu. particles ARE the contaminants. Which is why they have to pay more than a hauling fee to have it hauled away.
I know of a body shop out in the country that has a big pile of what looks like used white play sand on the edge of their parking lot. Probably a potential big fine if they ever got caught. And I also know of a waterjet shop that's in a rural setting, and they have piles of garnet out behind their shop that has farm fields out there. Plus the owners brother runs a landscape business and he uses the spent red garnet in customers flower beds and around shrubbery. I don't really know, but I'd think that would be big time fines if they ever got caught.
 

cesarbee440

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Auburn,WA
I have been gathering parts so I can change the bag filters to cartridge filters.
So far I have picked up an 11 gallon air tank from Harbor Freight for $41, bought the pulse valves, the Humphreys button actuator, 3/4" black pipe, unions, elbows, reducers, and pipe *******.
I will hook it all up and test to see if I want to run the 3/8" or 1/4" pipe ******* blowing above the cartridge filters.
 

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930dreamer

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I have been gathering parts so I can change the bag filters to cartridge filters.
So far I have picked up an 11 gallon air tank from Harbor Freight for $41, bought the pulse valves, the Humphreys button actuator, 3/4" black pipe, unions, elbows, reducers, and pipe *******.
I will hook it all up and test to see if I want to run the 3/8" or 1/4" pipe ******* blowing above the cartridge filters.

How's the conversion process going?
 

cesarbee440

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Sorry, late seeing this.
Instead of using for the dust collector, I'm planning on using it on a Paasche bench booth I'm converting to 2 cartridge filters. From horizontal to vertical. Didn't want to waste the 10 bag filters I bought for $420. I will keep the dust collector w/ 10 bags for now but I cut out the bottom panel to make it funnel shape. Trying to get my Binks wall booth exhausting through the roof of the shipping container now too.
 

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78TransAm

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N. Mississippi
Hello, I have this compressor and wonder if it's capable of siphon blasting or pressure pot blasting? Maybe with modifications? I saw where someone changed the regulator on this model and is getting 80cfm@100psi. Thanks, Robert.
NorthStar 20gal. model 25653 Specs at 5.0cfm@90psi and 6.0cfm@40psi.
 

dkmc

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NYS--Upstate in the corn fields
Find out what regulator they installed, because I WANT one of those!


Hello, I have this compressor and wonder if it's capable of siphon blasting or pressure pot blasting? Maybe with modifications? I saw where someone changed the regulator on this model and is getting 80cfm@100psi. Thanks, Robert.
NorthStar 20gal. model 25653 Specs at 5.0cfm@90psi and 6.0cfm@40psi.
 

Jswain

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Calgary, AB
If you are just blasting very small parts for very short periods you may be okay but for anything bigger it will leave you wanting more. You would also have to check the duty cycle on your compressor too see how long you can run it vs how long it needs a break
 
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OccupantRJ

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I bet he meant 8.0@100cfm eh.

A 5 cfm compressor is only going to attain 5 cfm unless the rpm of the pump was increased, or an air enhancer is used on the outlet end of things. Those are normally used to provide volumes of air in cases where more air is required than the established cfm. I have used them in the textile industry as fiber entanglers. They expell into the open atmosphere.
 

TTMotorsports

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Lucerne Valley, CA
I have always heard siphon blasting is better for production type work but takes much more cfm compressor. If you're blasting for hours like a powdercoating shop than go siphon and a big rotary screw compressor. If doing you own hobby stuff go with pressure pot type setup since if it takes you 10min or 30 min it doesn't really matter when it costs 1/4 as much.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

TheEquineFencer

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OccupantRJ

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Anybody want some free nuisance dust? That stuff is as fine as face powder, so better wear a mask and be upwind when you pour it! That is about 4 months residue from aluminum oxide.
 

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dkmc

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NYS--Upstate in the corn fields
I have always heard siphon blasting is better for production type work but takes much more cfm compressor. If you're blasting for hours like a powdercoating shop than go siphon and a big rotary screw compressor. If doing you own hobby stuff go with pressure pot type setup since if it takes you 10min or 30 min it doesn't really matter when it costs 1/4 as much
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
I don't agree with this. Other than an application where pressure blasting might be too aggressive, but the less air used and faster progress is a win-win with pressure blasting. I would say siphon systems are mostly used because of lower initial cost. You pay more for air to power them for their lifetime. And pressure blasting systems can be turned down. This is likely a case of hearsay from folks that don't understand the technical details of both systems. This reminds me of a local speed shop some years ago. They blasted lots of parts in their siphon cabinet. Complaining constantly about compressor issues, water in air problems, and high electric bills. When I suggested solutions to these problems, including a pressure type cabinet, all I got was a very skeptical stare from one worker. And a 'deer in the headlights' look from the owner. I stopped trying to be helpful at that point.

Anybody want some free nuisance dust? That stuff is as fine as face powder, so better wear a mask and be upwind when you pour it! That is about 4 months residue from aluminum oxide.
Got some myself. Super fine like you say.
 
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Strouty

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I am at a minor cross roads in my sand blasting life. I have a surrender siphon blast cabinet, it is a decent size for me, but I want to either rework it for a foot pedal with a mixing valve (I think that is what it is called) or go to a full pressure pot style system. I have the pressure pot and everything already, so that would actually be the cheaper way to go, but I really want to understand if it is the better way to go.

If I understand things, my media would go into the pressure pot, then it would essentially fill the bottom of my cabinet, from there I can recycle it (sift it) and put it back into the pressure pot, correct?
 

Strouty

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Here is more info on the pressure pot and some pictures of what I am working with.

b102458557d6a5d3c85a153ff5346ffb.jpg

ff8ca78c39056b4941601d7dcfcbde8f.jpg

910cf61176531f1aa242de7c6615773e.jpg
 

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dkmc

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That's correct, then things can get fancier from there. Like having a reclaimer on top of the pot. Media is sucked out of the bottom of the cab, seperated from the dust and debris, then sits on top of the pot. When the pot is empty, it's depressurized, the seal valve at the top opens, and the media flows back into the pot......cycle repeats.


If I understand things, my media would go into the pressure pot, then it would essentially fill the bottom of my cabinet, from there I can recycle it (sift it) and put it back into the pressure pot, correct?
 

Strouty

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How long can you blast with a pressure pot? I figure the size of the tip probably makes a difference, but generally anyone have a ballpark idea? Is it pounds of media per minute or hour or???
 

Jswain

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If I had to guess I'd say my 100lb pot feels like it lasts 30 minutes or so blasting at 60-80 psi with a 1/8" tip. Long enough that you get a lot of blasting done
 

Strouty

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That may be a reason for me to stick with the siphon setup, I don’t think my pressure but is anywhere near that big, but I will have to figure that out.
 

Strouty

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I wish it had more info on the tag, might try and call the manufacturer and see what they can tell me. I guess one true way to find out is to fill it up. I am also going to need to find tips that fit it or buy a new gun to use. It is just a straight hose right now.

If I was to plumb fittings through the cabinet, like a bulkhead, would that be an issue? Does it have to be hose only from the valve? Does what I am saying even make sense?
 

Jswain

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I've never used a pressure cabinet so I could be wrong but I would think you'd want to run the hose through a grommet instead of having a bulkhead & 2 seperate hoses, that way the bulkhead fitting doesn't wash out from the media passing by at high speed.
 

Strouty

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That is the way it was setup on the original cabinet, I was just thinking it would be cleaner looking. I was thinking of flow more than wearing out the connection, but I suppose it would be subjected to a lot of abrasive.
 

GeoBruin

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Question for the group (with some context). I just picked up a Harbor Freight Benchtop cabinet. This was a very intentional and strategic decision. It fits perfectly on top of a 4-drawer cart from which I harvested the drawers. It's also one of the few cabinets out there that fits in this location in my tiny shop. I looked at several others including the Eastwoods and just about every benchtop model out there. I was prepared for the work I'll need to do and the money I'll need to invest to get it performing properly.

That said, I've understood all along that I will need to replace the gun/pickup tube. I've heard good things about the TP Tools upgrade kit for import cabinets. So that's the direction I planned to head. Only once I had already grabbed the HF cabinet on sale, I asked the question of TP tools whether the kit would work for the benchtop cabinet. They responded that it wouldn't because the pickup tube is too long.

So my question is, could an enterprising individual with some fabrication skills shorten the pickup tube and make it work? I like the idea of having access to the TP Tools "consumables" so it would be great to proceed with this plan but if there are fundamental issues or if there is another kit that's has similar appeal but will work out of the box I'm open to that too.

Thanks!

-B
 
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OccupantRJ

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I don’t see why not. The key is being able to keep the end of the tube in the abrasive, and being able to keep a proper amount of media flowing toward it. Too much media can be a bad thing. You want a suction air flow to the suction side of the gun, with a steady flow of abrasive to it. Too much abrasive can compact and affect abrasive flow.
 

Jswain

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If you have a welder it would likely be easier to just make your own honestly. If you don't and you have a propane torch I would make one out of copper pipe.

Use the dimensions for holes that people modify the HF cabinet siphon tube with a Google search, I think it was a 5/16" hole 1" up from the bottom joining the two and a 1/8" breather hole 1" under where the hose attaches to on the suction tube. Cap the bottom of the breather tube. Make a mount attach a hose and bobs your uncle.

Double check those numbers but I modified mine before going to a metering valve and It actually works pretty good I attached it to a 5gal bucket now with a 10ft hose and the stock gun as well for a portable blast out of a bucket setup and it works great
 

GeoBruin

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If you have a welder it would likely be easier to just make your own honestly. If you don't and you have a propane torch I would make one out of copper pipe.



Use the dimensions for holes that people modify the HF cabinet siphon tube with a Google search, I think it was a 5/16" hole 1" up from the bottom joining the two and a 1/8" breather hole 1" under where the hose attaches to on the suction tube. Cap the bottom of the breather tube. Make a mount attach a hose and bobs your uncle.



Double check those numbers but I modified mine before going to a metering valve and It actually works pretty good I attached it to a 5gal bucket now with a 10ft hose and the stock gun as well for a portable blast out of a bucket setup and it works great
Funny I hadn't thought about making one. I'll try to find a schematic. It seems straightforward. Thanks.
 
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