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The Everything 3D Printer Thread

Jehannum

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The heat-serts are sorted, and the screen fits, so the next step will be to figure out whether I can use the original rear cover for that particular part of the instrument cluster, or if I have to design/print a new one (because I don't want to destroy anything).

Little bit of lift on one spot on the base, but not enough to make me chuck this particular print:
PXL_20251114_192146826.jpg.jpeg

Front, screen centered in the ring, things lookin' good.
PXL_20251114_192150753.jpg.jpeg

And it still fits in the gauge cluster:
PXL_20251114_192518422.jpg.jpeg
 
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pcrov

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Jehannum

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Jehannum

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I learned some stuff about modeling.

I decided to go ahead and do a replacement back cover for the cluster in the Audi, so I sat around thinking about how to do it, when my Cricut experience piped up, and said, "why not start with an SVG".

So, I traced the cluster cover onto paper, scanned the paper into a TIF, imported the TIF into inkscape, traced it with the bezier tool, unioned the paths together to get a single path (OpenSCAD is kinda dumb that way), then imported it into OpenSCAD and extruded it 3mm to see:

Cluster Cover.png

The printer is currently ocupado (my son is back from college, doing his homework using it, so I won't begrudge not having my toy all the time), but I think this probably will fit without too much adjustment.
 

Citation

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Yes, there is an installation kit that has the parts needed to install the CFS on the K1 series printers, it's about a dozen parts, including a new extruder that has the integrated cutter in it. It's another $40-50 (I can't recall what I paid for it) It has all the parts to instal the CFS on any of the K1 series printers.

Keep in mind, since these are modified printers to add this capability, they don't "poop" the waste filament out the back like the K2 and Bambu printers do for their purging. It's ok, for me because sending that "poop" out the back of my printers would make an even bigger mess for me to deal with. There is no room behind my printers anyway. There are some "mods" that can be made to deal with the purge waste, but I just rake it out from under the bed when the print is finished. So far that works fine for what I've printed in multi color.
Based on your comments I ended up taking the chance and bought a refurb K1 max off the eBay listing. Very typical garage journal issue, someone posts something. Someone else spends money. I blame you :D

Anyway, the printer is in very good but used condition. Mostly you notice a bit of tape residue in places. I had a bed level sensor error at first but that seems to have cleared. I had to rerun the vibration compensation but it seems fine now. Not sure if I'm better of with the anti vibration feet on the bottom. Overall it seems like a good deal.
 

burger

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I didn't expect it to come out this well the first go:

messages_0(3).jpeg

I have to move the slot on the right a bit, deepen the one at the bottom, and then it should have enough wiggle for me to start worrying about the screw holes.

Thank you for sharing your build thread. I'm almost to the end of page 2. Fortunately, I'm a very slow reader because I click on links and go down rabbit holes. Question #1 is why are you concerned about ethanol content?

Put some shoes on you goddamn hippie! I say that in jest. I spent the Covid lockdown seeing how many days I could go without wearing shoes. Five was my record. That wild and crazy behavior led to me dealing with plantar faciitis in 2021.
 
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Jehannum

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Thank you for sharing your build thread. I'm almost to the end of page 2. Fortunately, I'm a very slow reader because I click on links and go down rabbit holes. Question #1 is why are you concerned about ethanol content?

Anyway put some shoes on you goddamn hippie! I say that in jest. I spent the Covid lockdown seeing how many days I could go without wearing shoes. Five was my record. That wild and crazy behavior led to me dealing with plantar faciitis in 2021.
I care about ethanol content because as ethanol content goes up, I can increase timing and boost pressure and make more power (or it will, once I get my act together and tune the car for it).
 

burger

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I care about ethanol content because as ethanol content goes up, I can increase timing and boost pressure and make more power (or it will, once I get my act together and tune the car for it).


I don't know that much about ethanol gas. From what you wrote I'm gathering that ethanol is more resistant to detonation?
 
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gpiggaz

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Based on your comments I ended up taking the chance and bought a refurb K1 max off the eBay listing. Very typical garage journal issue, someone posts something. Someone else spends money. I blame you :D

Anyway, the printer is in very good but used condition. Mostly you notice a bit of tape residue in places. I had a bed level sensor error at first but that seems to have cleared. I had to rerun the vibration compensation but it seems fine now. Not sure if I'm better of with the anti vibration feet on the bottom. Overall it seems like a good deal.
Glad it's working, Mine has the tape residue too- but otherwise it sure didn't look used to me. Even the instructions were sealed still. The door handle wasn't installed and was in it's virgin packaging

I had some trouble with the CFS at the beginning, but I figured it out- The Bowden tube was too long. once I shortened it, and relocated the CFS to the top it all worked. I've been printing for several days now and other than when I've screwed up- it's worked great. I've been printing new parts for my JD's Garage CNC plasma table. Changing it over to PETG from PLA. plus the new machine's calibration is spot on, so no filing of parts. Also, upgrading the machine from Arduino to ESP-32. Basically making it JD's V2 machine.


I did print some PLA "art" that turned out well too. Overall, and especially for the price, I'm happy. If I needed another machine, I wouldn't hesitate to buy one of these refurbs when eBay runs their coupon discounts especially when it's 20% off
 

gte718p

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I have been in the anti Bambu camp for a long time. Technically I still am as I think they are becoming very anti consumer. I love my CoreXY Ratrig, but recently it has been exemplifying the saying I have a 3D printer hobby instead of a 3D printing hobby. When it runs, it is amazing. However, it has grown temperamental recently. It was printing amazingly for weeks. I changed spools, same material same company, and can't get the new on dialed in.

I need a printer to reliably turn out advanced materials. I caved and ordered a H2D with AMS Pro. We will see how it goes.
 

Damon L.

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I just ordered a Centauri Carbon and a pile of filament as my first printer. I almost did the P1S with AMS, but came to the conclusion that I can learn on this one with single filaments. I'll watch for a tool changer if I look to upgrade in a year or two if I need multi-material.
 

loganb

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I have been in the anti Bambu camp for a long time. Technically I still am as I think they are becoming very anti consumer. I love my CoreXY Ratrig, but recently it has been exemplifying the saying I have a 3D printer hobby instead of a 3D printing hobby. When it runs, it is amazing. However, it has grown temperamental recently. It was printing amazingly for weeks. I changed spools, same material same company, and can't get the new on dialed in.

I'm struggling to avoid buying a Ratrig kit listed locally, NIB for about half off. I don't need it, I don't have the time and with a H2C and 300mm Voron, I echo the printer hobby vs printing comment....the Bambus just work more reliably. The 400 x 400 size capability of the RatRig would be fun....
 

gte718p

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I'm struggling to avoid buying a Ratrig kit listed locally, NIB for about half off. I don't need it, I don't have the time and with a H2C and 300mm Voron, I echo the printer hobby vs printing comment....the Bambus just work more reliably. The 400 x 400 size capability of the RatRig would be fun....
I have the 400x400. It is a great size, most of the time I really enjoy it. It is amazing how often the extra 110 cm is helpful over the normal 290 or so of a Bambu or Makerforge. I considered the 500x500, but I can count on one hand the number of time I actually needed that capacity. The 500 is just two large. It takes up too much space, and the size of the build plate creates problems if you are only doing small prints. The 400 is a good balance. I like it especially the newer builds a good bit more then the Voron.
 

Gerald O

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Unnecessarily going bigger has its drawbacks. It will add mass to the x,y mechanism, which can negatively affect print quality due to momentum.
Larger build plates are subject to more warpage and longer warm up times to dimensionally stabilize. Higher energy costs.
 
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Gerald O

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Another thing to think about when going larger for the sake of bigger single-piece prints is the increased loss from failed prints. If you can break the design into smaller prints you reduce the risk that failure of a single print will scrap the entire assembly.
 

gte718p

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Another thing to think about when going larger for the sake of bigger single-piece prints is the increased loss from failed prints. If you can break the design into smaller prints you reduce the risk that failure of a single print will scrap the entire assembly.
Unnecessarily going bigger has its drawbacks. It will add mass to the x,y mechanism, which can negatively affect print quality due to momentum.
Larger build plates are subject to more warpage and longer warm up times to dimensionally stabilize. Higher energy costs.

You are absolutely right. However, there is a place for both.

On the plus side of going big, single large prints are normally stronger then multiple joint pieced unless you do extra work to design the joints or are using some exotic glues. You can absolutely design joints that are as strong or in some cases stronger than a monolithic piece, and there are glues that have bonding strengths higher the material strength. However, that is time, energy, and cost.

If the part is cosmetic, a single print normally looks better. Saves time and effort on finishing.

If you are many small pieces going big is also a benefit. My 400x400 has 77% more printing surface then a 300x300. That equates to a lot more parts per print. That generally equates to higher productivity. It is also nice to be able to print all the parts for a project in a single go vice having to print a few parts, comeback in a few hours, clean the build plate, wait for it to heat up, makes sure the first layer prints, print a few more pieces, repeat in a few hours.

Finally, some cool parts just can't be practically broken down. The effort to align blind internal features or the risk of leaks just isn't worth it.

I have evolved through printers. I stated with a monopart mini. It was tiny, even when I moved up to the Ender3 Clone, I still often used it for small brackets or clips because it printed faster. Until I tore the Ender apart to upgrade, it still got used fairly regularly. It was slow, but because it was slow it didn't have ringing issues and was very forgiving. For cosmetic parts sometimes it was easier just to run it then to tune the RatRig if I didn't have a good profile for the filament.
 

gte718p

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Got my tabs lined up, now I'm working the PRNDL blank and info light panel mounts. I just fired a print off, let's see how I did.

Original:
messages_0(5).jpeg

Rough draft render for STL:
Cluster Cover.png
I'm impressed that you are working in OpenSCAD directly. That is fairly *********. The libraries are the basis for FreeCad and OpenFoam both of which I have used a lot, but I have found actually coding my parts to be too much,
 

bugnut

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Well had a little hiccup with the Prusa. Spent some time working through the issue. More effort coming. The cause was a momentary power blip, printer evidently never felt the blip. Parts to be checked and new plate ordered.
 

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soloz2

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Had a spool separate in my AMS mid print last night and the AMS kept pulling filament so now I have to unspool and respool a nearly new spool. That’s fun. I am also going to want to look into a dryer as just using dry boxes seems to be sufficient for PLA, but some of my PETG prints come out brittle. I’m using my P1S to dry now, but at 12 hours to dry a single spool and not being able to print anything during that time seems like an ineffective use of both electricity and my printer.
I may try my old food dehydrator. It’s a harbor freight unit and doesn’t have a fan snd no temp control so it would likely be less efficient than the P1S.
 

Jehannum

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I'm impressed that you are working in OpenSCAD directly. That is fairly *********. The libraries are the basis for FreeCad and OpenFoam both of which I have used a lot, but I have found actually coding my parts to be too much,
By training, I'm a computer scientist, so the coding part appeals to how I work.

My son (first year in mechanical engineering at New Mexico Tech) has tried to show me how Fusion 360 works and it's like when the parents talk in Peanuts. My brain goes off into a trombone solo.
 

ArcReactorKC

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By training, I'm a computer scientist, so the coding part appeals to how I work.

My son (first year in mechanical engineering at New Mexico Tech) has tried to show me how Fusion 360 works and it's like when the parents talk in Peanuts. My brain goes off into a trombone solo.
I have been 3d modeling for two decades. I have never been able to get myself in gear for Fusion or OnShape. I still use sketchup for 95% of the things I model. I use fusion for maybe 2.5% and it's only for parametric stuff that I want to be able to adjust later. Powerful tools always have a steep learning curve.

The other 2.5% is openscad when it's something simple I can imagine from scratch and throw together. I should probably flex that more.
 

Jehannum

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I have been 3d modeling for two decades. I have never been able to get myself in gear for Fusion or OnShape. I still use sketchup for 95% of the things I model. I use fusion for maybe 2.5% and it's only for parametric stuff that I want to be able to adjust later. Powerful tools always have a steep learning curve.

The other 2.5% is openscad when it's something simple I can imagine from scratch and throw together. I should probably flex that more.
I do a ton of parametric stuff in OpenSCAD (and by parametric, I mean you adjust the parameters to get different outputs). There seems to be some kind of notion of "parametric" that applies to to Fusion that I have real trouble identifying.
 

ArcReactorKC

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I do a ton of parametric stuff in OpenSCAD (and by parametric, I mean you adjust the parameters to get different outputs). There seems to be some kind of notion of "parametric" that applies to to Fusion that I have real trouble identifying.
Oh no, I'm not saying that just that I am more familiar with doing it in fusion. If I was better at openscad I could/would do more there.
 
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