Agree, I have printed plenty of ABS and the smell is a bit annoying as well as the residue it leaves on the inside of the print but it's easy enough to clean off. I print mostly while I'm asleep and not in the same room so it doesn't really bother me or my wife except when she goes in the space where the printer is after it chugged along all night and may still smell a tiny bit.
I used to use a liberated AT&T fiber termination kit. You can still find them on FleaBay, thought the chemicals might be a bit dated.It came out well!
If anyone has a recommendation for a fiber termination kit for the amateur dingbat who wants to DIY SC/APC connectors in his networking cabinet, let me know?
That's what I plan on doing with the AMS HT that is coming with my H2C.
FTFY
That's what I plan on doing with the AMS HT that is coming with my H2C.
Probably put both AMS 2 Pro's on the right nozzle and have the AMS HT sitting pretty on the side to dry stuff and for TPU prints. When I first got my X1C I watched a Youtube of a reviewer (had a pre production X1C) run TPU through it so I thought if he can do it I can do it, I'll just set the printer to super low speed and be gentle with it. Nope broke in multiple places and I had to tear apart the AMS to get it all out. Nothing like taking apart your brand new AMS
That is indeed one reason for making the purchase for the AMS HT! I like that they have a port that bypasses the AMS within it.
FTFY
www.nature.com
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
In the intro, found this to be the most relevant on a quick read-thru..."Hazardous materials, including formaldehyde and particulate matter (PM) are released during the 3DP process by melting the thermoplastic filament and heating the resin at high temperatures6,7,8,9,10,11,12"Evaluation of formaldehyde, particulate matters 2.5 and 10 emitted to a 3D printing workspace based on ventilation - Scientific Reports
Recently, the development of 3D printing (3DP) technology and its application in various fields have improved our quality of life. However, hazardous materials that affect the human body, such as formaldehyde and particulate matter (PM), are emitted into the air during 3DP. This study measured...
Characterization of Volatile and Particulate Emissions from Desktop 3D Printers - PubMed
The rapid expansion of 3D printing technologies has led to increased utilization in various industries and has also become pervasive in the home environment. Although the benefits are well acknowledged, concerns have arisen regarding potential health and safety hazards associated with emissions...
There are also some YT videos on the subject. What I've generally read is the issue is very manageable but also not something to dismiss out of hand.
Reading further down, I did see Formaldehyde mentioned, but seemed to increase the farther away from the printer, and had significant outliers as mentioned.
I would assume that is in a classroom with good air circulation. There are several TY videos about this where people did air quality tests in their homes. It's not enough to make me not print in my house (my printer sits next to my desk) but it is enough that I will not do materials other than PLA. My office has effectively no circulation so I worry about these things.
Agree, this is why I had to have a fully enclosed printer with filtration. No doubt ABS off gases and you can tell when it's printed vs other materials. I can even tell ABS from PLA or PETG just by the smell of the filament, not even when it's warmed up. I had a mystery spool and couldn't remember if it was ABS or PLA so I opened the bag and smelled it, sure enough was Bambu ABS refill on an unmarked Bambu spool (well, it was marked PLA from the original spool which I knew was wrong).
Perfect... now design and print a fix for your printer.
I would suggest reading this test (one of the ones I linked previously)
www.nature.com
The HVAC in my house is a fan and an open window lol
Lengthy read but needing a little bit of assistance.
TLDR - Overture PETG, dried, plate cleaned, semi-inconsistent issue?
Long version - Dried some PETG for over 5-6 hours at 60c in my AMS2 Pro and opted to print some desiccant boxes for it.
I had one small area where there was a slight adhesion issue near the center of the build plate for the initial layer. I'm very particular about keeping the plate clean but, I'll always go back to the basics so I pulled it and washed it with Dawn dish soap. Let it dry thoroughly and placed it back along with wiping it down with Isopropyl alcohol (my standard go to).
Well running the print again caused the same issue but in a different spot, close to center but towards the rear and right.
Pulled the print settings card that Overture provides and I compared the bed and nozzle temps that were running in my prints. Learned yesterday that bed temps can be altered in the Filament settings during the Prepare portion of the slicer.
I upped the bed temp for the initial layer to 85c, and left it at the 70c for all remaining layers (same temps I had run for the above prints). Left the nozzle temps at 245c as the chart calls for 230-250c.
Different results this time as the first layer stuck on perfect all over the build plate, and an issue occurred on two parts on different areas of the build plate. More like, filament didn't stick to the second layer or so (pictures below).
Here are 3 of the parts (from the same program) to show good adhesion on the bottom, and clean layering on top.
And the bottom of the ones with issues; you'll see they're intact and adhered to the plate well.
But the issues arose after the that for these two.
I concluded that the issue may be that the bed temps should remain 85c both for the initial layer as well as the rest of the program.
We're about 1 hour in and after checking the current print job, I have slightly different results with some items looking perfect and others having an issue for several layers along one wall. And a bit of filament astray on another piece.
Keeping in mind, bed temps are a consistent 85c and nozzle temps are 245c.
Being new to 3D printing, I'm unsure how to visually "read" these results.
Also, the inside of those walls (last picture) look as if the filament was just strung along and not actually adding any strength?
It looks like the filament might be getting hung up and curling away as it's coming out the nozzle. Have you seen this while it's printing? You might need to crank up the nozzle temp. Might need to reduce speed. Could also just be a bit of schmutz it's sometimes catching on.
I'd start with cleaning the nozzle. On the manual control set the nozzle temp to ~250, let it heat up, then wipe it off with a clean rag.
Then run through some calibrations. With temp being a suspect start there and print a temp tower.
The default for PETG starts at 250 and goes down to 230. Increase the high end to 270.
(If you get an error about "non-manifold edges" you can repair or ignore it, it doesn't matter here.)
Print the temp tower, use the best looking as your nozzle temp in the filament profile.
Run Flow Dynamics calibration, selecting the Pattern method:
The Bambu wiki covers this and how to evaluate it pretty well.
With the K factor saved, go to the Device tab and edit the filament to set the just-saved PA profile:
Then run Max Volumetric Speed (aka Max flowrate) calibration:
(Another suspect.)
The OrcaSlicer wiki covers it. Set the speed in the filament profile. (You don't have to be running OrcaSlicer. It's based on Bambu Studio and these calibrations exist in both.)
Then optionally run Flow Rate calibration:
(Your extrusion looks generally okay, maybe some over extrusion, but changes above can impact it regardless.)
Again the Bambu wiki explains this well. Save the result to your filament profile.
I don't have experience with Overture PETG, this is just best-guess stuff. The OrcaSlicer wiki calibration guide is my go-to for dialing in a new filament.
I had two summer jobs in my yute...
That's Kenobi's light saber ... Isn't it.Decided the "brass" was too bright so I printed the parts in something closer to copper (but not copper)
Once my glue arrives, I'll go ahead and put it together
I ended up changing my plan after looking at what the installers left in my cabinet and designed some winding davits, because the keystone couplers do the job (that's the AT&T fiber up top, the Vexus fiber in the middle, and soon to be the Comcast RG6 on the bottom):
