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Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT The Texas Barn in PA

Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
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madison069

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Monroeville, PA
I recall our plumbers using PVC one nominal pipe size larger than the gas pipe as the sleeve thru masonry/concrete. So, a 1" gas line would use a 2" PVC sleeve. The annular gap is sealed with electrician's duct seal. A 3/4" gas line would use a 1.5" PVC sleeve

We don't sleeve thru wood framing.

I have only seen PVC sleeving in my construction career here in VA and adjacent MD counties.

I had one plumber forget to sleeve a gas line and it was caught by the inspector. The plumber took a used tube of caulk, cut it to a length of 8" to make an open tube, and slit it along its side. He then pried it open and placed it around the gas pipe with the ends overlapping itself and slid it into the hole in the 8" concrete wall to become the sleeve. Inspector passed it.

I know codes are different from one state to the other. I’m going off my memory when we installed a gas line for a buddy’s garage in Texas and what he had to do. Should of known Pa is different and it’s been years, so code changes.

I know New Jersey had a nice laid out guideline on what’s expected of their sleeve requirements. As you stated, they also require 1.5” for 3/4” gas line.

But the PA code basically boils down to an inert material needs to be placed between the gas pipe and any surrounding material.
 
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madison069

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Monroeville, PA
Gas valve took forever to come to the house. But I got the gas valve and went over to the garage. I pulled the ****** out that was through the wall and got it wrapped in three wraps of the pvc tape.
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Then I got the new gas valve, ******, and supports for the gas lines installed.
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Pressured up the gas line from inside the garage and pressured test the line all the way to the house.

After 3 hours it was still holding the same pressure when I first pressured the line.
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Then I also coated the patch by the water line with a Henry damp proof coating for foundation wall to have it ready to backfill and get this graded. IMG_9407.jpeg

Now to let the drywall crew get to work tomorrow.

I also talked to a church member who paints for a living and asked him to give me a quote to paint the inside. Figured he would be able to spray the walls and ceiling quicker then I could even get started.
 

Krfjkm

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May 15, 2020
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277
Location
Charlotte / Mint Hill NC
Do you have a garage thread? How did you use ChatGPT in the process of wiring the garage?

Do you have a garage thread? How did you use ChatGPT in the process of wiring the garage?

here’s my original one I built in Texas— lost that in my divorce. 🤨

Now building my new shop in NC— bigger and better!

As for Chat GPT- if I was unsure about NEC requirements or what my local inspector would want to see, it always seemed to have the answer!

Here’s my new shop:
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Mr onetwo

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2,009
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Coastal Maine
Gas valve took forever to come to the house. But I got the gas valve and went over to the garage. I pulled the ****** out that was through the wall and got it wrapped in three wraps of the pvc tape.
Then I got the new gas valve, ******, and supports for the gas lines installed.
Pressured up the gas line from inside the garage and pressured test the line all the way to the house.
After 3 hours it was still holding the same pressure when I first pressured the line.
Then I also coated the patch by the water line with a Henry damp proof coating for foundation wall to have it ready to backfill and get this graded.
Very nice work:beer:
 
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madison069

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Monroeville, PA
So drywall crew came today and they knocked out a huge chunk of the hanging of the drywall sheets. I can’t complain about any of the progress! It’s a huge transformation from looking at insulation to the drywall!
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They still got the right wall to do and the area around the garage doors to do.
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Should be taping and mudding tomorrow!
 
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madison069

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Monroeville, PA
Looks great! Such an exciting step

Looks really great! Thanks for continuing to update us on your progess!

Thanks! It has transformed with the drywall going up!

I went ahead and got some baseboards and door trims. This way I can install the trim once the crew is done with the drywall. The windows will be wrapped around with drywall except the window sill. Currently looking for some granite that I like to cut down into window sills. The house has white marble/granites window sills so I thought it would be nice to bring that into the garage. It’s either that or cut some maple wood I have into window sills.
 
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madison069

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Monroeville, PA
Looks great, that is one skill I never want to master, but have the utmost appreciate for the guys that are good.
Can I do it, ehhhh. It takes me longer than it should but it can look good eventually. I am happy with passing it on to someone else.

Painting is another task I can do, but I’m wondering if I should do it or not. Depends on the estimate if I will pass it on also.
 

SilverJimmy

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Apr 14, 2012
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1,632
Location
Prescott/Flagstaff, AZ
Painting is another task I can do, but I’m wondering if I should do it or not. Depends on the estimate if I will pass it on also.
Now that I have had “Professionals” do the painting on all the interior surfaces in my build I really wish I had painted it all myself. I was told that I didn’t want to try to brush or roll the doors or the trim and that the ceilings wouldn’t look very good if I also tried to paint them with a roller, that the “Pros” all spray those for the best results. It’s now been over a month since they started painting and they still need to come back and do more touching up to try to fix their work. And how are they doing all that work? With a brush and rollers! What really pisses me off is what they did in my machine room. That room is lined with the same 3/4” T&G plywood like all the rest of the walls that my wife and I did. When they primed all the plywood they sprayed it really heavily with primer thinned with water. They sprayed it on so heavy that the plywood became water soaked and in a bunch of places the plywood started to delaminate! If you’ve seen plywood that’s been left out in the rain you know what I am describing! My wife and I have painted over 80 sheets of that same plywood and we have had none of that happen. The paint contractor has probably taken me off his Christmas list, I’m not his favorite!
So in hindsight, we should have just done the painting ourselves. Maybe it wouldn’t have looked as good as this will… eventually, but we would have been $$$$ and time ahead cuz I know we would have gotten it done in a week or so. Because of the wait on the painters the HVAC and the electricians have been delayed and the cabinets are still sitting on the floor! YMMV! 😝
 
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madison069

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Monroeville, PA
Now that I have had “Professionals” do the painting on all the interior surfaces in my build I really wish I had painted it all myself. I was told that I didn’t want to try to brush or roll the doors or the trim and that the ceilings wouldn’t look very good if I also tried to paint them with a roller, that the “Pros” all spray those for the best results. It’s now been over a month since they started painting and they still need to come back and do more touching up to try to fix their work. And how are they doing all that work? With a brush and rollers! What really pisses me off is what they did in my machine room. That room is lined with the same 3/4” T&G plywood like all the rest of the walls that my wife and I did. When they primed all the plywood they sprayed it really heavily with primer thinned with water. They sprayed it on so heavy that the plywood became water soaked and in a bunch of places the plywood started to delaminate! If you’ve seen plywood that’s been left out in the rain you know what I am describing! My wife and I have painted over 80 sheets of that same plywood and we have had none of that happen. The paint contractor has probably taken me off his Christmas list, I’m not his favorite!
So in hindsight, we should have just done the painting ourselves. Maybe it wouldn’t have looked as good as this will… eventually, but we would have been $$$$ and time ahead cuz I know we would have gotten it done in a week or so. Because of the wait on the painters the HVAC and the electricians have been delayed and the cabinets are still sitting on the floor! YMMV! 😝
I’d like to think he couldn’t mess this up, it’s just drywall and wood trims. But then again. I do know his work as he painted the church too. But the more I look into the cost of paint and supplies, I’m thinking I might just do it myself.
 
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madison069

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Monroeville, PA
I’ve been watching Facebook for a scaffold so I didn’t have to keep borrowing my buddy’s scaffold. But nothing was popping up on Facebook. Then I remembered Craigslist and instantly found two for sale about 2 miles from me for $50!

They are missing the plywood platform but that’s an easy fix since I have 3/4” plywood already!
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I’ll set them up this weekend and cut the plywood to dimensions.

Walls looks good! There’s a few minor spots but I’m sure they will get it tomorrow.
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That’s pretty much the only updates I have for now with the garage.
 
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madison069

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Monroeville, PA
Just keep in mind that the walk boards that come with Baker have an iron frame around them.The ledge they sit on is very narrow and I would be worried about bare plywood flexing out.Be safe!
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I got a 2x4 in the bed of my truck I was going to cut down and attach to the 3/4” to prevent it from bowing too bad. If it don’t work, I can put angle iron on it. I might have a bed frame that would work.
 

larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
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Northern Virginia
Drywall looks nice!

At the day job, we trim our houses, painter caulks and fills all nail holes and lets it dry. Next day painter prime paints all the drywall and trim. Following day, drywall crew then returns with high power lights to shine the surface at shallow angles to find drywall finish deficiencies.

Drywall crew usually tints mud with either a smidge of chalk line dust or some latex paint so the point up locations are easily seen for follow up sanding.

It is surprising the amount of point up that is actually done to what initially looks look an excellent drywall finish.
 
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madison069

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Location
Monroeville, PA
Drywall looks nice!

At the day job, we trim our houses, painter caulks and fills all nail holes and lets it dry. Next day painter prime paints all the drywall and trim. Following day, drywall crew then returns with high power lights to shine the surface at shallow angles to find drywall finish deficiencies.

Drywall crew usually tints mud with either a smidge of chalk line dust or some latex paint so the point up locations are easily seen for follow up sanding.

It is surprising the amount of point up that is actually done to what initially looks look an excellent drywall finish.

I was thinking that was the reason for all of those lights that the drywall crew had in their bags. When I stopped by the garage yesterday, they had 3 duffle bags full of those light fixtures with the aluminum shroud around the bulb and clamps. I figured they must have used them to shine on the wall to find the imperfections.

I don't know how detail **** I'll be with the overall wall, but I do know there are a few spot that I hope they catch specially since they are right at the man door. Overall the only specific area I found that stood out was the corners. Otherwise, from my naked eyes and a flashlight, the walls looks pretty smooth! I am going over there here shortly to talk to them.
 

larry4406

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Northern Virginia
I was thinking that was the reason for all of those lights that the drywall crew had in their bags. When I stopped by the garage yesterday, they had 3 duffle bags full of those light fixtures with the aluminum shroud around the bulb and clamps. I figured they must have used them to shine on the wall to find the imperfections.

I don't know how detail **** I'll be with the overall wall, but I do know there are a few spot that I hope they catch specially since they are right at the man door. Overall the only specific area I found that stood out was the corners. Otherwise, from my naked eyes and a flashlight, the walls looks pretty smooth! I am going over there here shortly to talk to them.
Down lights such as recess hide many ceiling drywall sins. Surface mounted lights shine sideways and the warts/ills pop up.

The cycle is commonly referred to as prep, prime, pointup, sand, second coat with each being a day.

On our houses, after all trade roughs are complete, we then do a 2nd pointup, 2nd sand, and a paint final.

Someone mentioned earlier, but back rolling sprayed paint is very important. Without it, may as well give up trying to touchup paint.
 
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madison069

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Monroeville, PA
Down lights such as recess hide many ceiling drywall sins. Surface mounted lights shine sideways and the warts/ills pop up.

The cycle is commonly referred to as prep, prime, pointup, sand, second coat with each being a day.

On our houses, after all trade roughs are complete, we then do a 2nd pointup, 2nd sand, and a paint final.

Someone mentioned earlier, but back rolling sprayed paint is very important. Without it, may as well give up trying to touchup paint.
Me and the drywall guy was talking about the process. I saw where they marked the walls with pencils to show the low spots during their inspections. You can see where they filled it in using some hot mud. Overall it looks good. He did mentioned if I was going for ultra flat surfaces then I would want to sand after I primed the walls.

As mentioned I don’t know if I will be too **** about it, after all it’s a working garage. As long as it’s not too dramatic of a rough or wavy surface, then I’ll let it go. If it was in my house then yes, I would be **** about it. But honestly, what I’ve seen so far, it looks nice and flat.

But he said if I have any issues to let him know.

Since I decided to do the painting, I will just roll the paint. Since I’m think of a two color combo, it will just be better to roll it. Plus I already have the stuff to roll the paint. If I sprayed I would have to buy a sprayer and that’s just added cost. I don’t see where a sprayer will come in use again after the garage, so I’ll just roll it.
 

larry4406

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Northern Virginia
Me and the drywall guy was talking about the process. I saw where they marked the walls with pencils to show the low spots during their inspections. You can see where they filled it in using some hot mud. Overall it looks good. He did mentioned if I was going for ultra flat surfaces then I would want to sand after I primed the walls.

As mentioned I don’t know if I will be too **** about it, after all it’s a working garage. As long as it’s not too dramatic of a rough or wavy surface, then I’ll let it go. If it was in my house then yes, I would be **** about it. But honestly, what I’ve seen so far, it looks nice and flat.

But he said if I have any issues to let him know.

Since I decided to do the painting, I will just roll the paint. Since I’m think of a two color combo, it will just be better to roll it. Plus I already have the stuff to roll the paint. If I sprayed I would have to buy a sprayer and that’s just added cost. I don’t see where a sprayer will come in use again after the garage, so I’ll just roll it.
Our drywall crews burnish (sand) the primed walls after sanding the pointup to make it ready for 2nd coat paint.
 
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madison069

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Monroeville, PA
I sorted the scaffold out and got a good one assembled. The other set seems to be a mismatched that I missed. So I’ll put it together just to see if it works out. But the first one I got together and it’s nice and solid. Cut the 3/4” plywood and fit it in the spot. Just the plywood would have worked as it wasn’t bowing inward much. Atleast I didn’t see the board edge pull away from the fails. But I since I had them, I cut the bed rails down and put them on the ends.
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Then I cut the door trim to dimensions and used super glue to assemble the trim.
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At this time I had to leave to take my youngest to tryout. Hopefully I’ll get some more done this afternoon.
 
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madison069

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Today was mostly trim installation, caulking, and cleaning.

I got the attic opening trimmed out. I need to cut a 1/4” plywood to fit in the opening. Maybe in the future I’ll put a set of stairs here, but for now there’s an opening.
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Got the door trim and baseboard trims installed. Had to do some drywall trimming and shimming of the door trim, but overall it’s looks good.
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Baseboard along the walls.
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To clean the walls and ceiling I used a combination of shop vac with a floor brush attachment, leaf blower, and mop and bucket.
The spin bucket with the mop was a lot easier to use than just a rag. Multiple water change out, but each time I had a slurry mix built up. Took a few rounds to get just milky water.
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Tomorrow I need to spread the plastic on the floor and I can start applying the primer on the ceiling and walls!
 
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madison069

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Monroeville, PA
Every time I see Crocks I think about Hannibal Lecter! Gonna have an old friend for dinner!!!
I tried to get my red wings repaired, but they said they were too far gone to repair. I guess 8 years is a long time for boots. So I didn’t want to get my new boots dirty just yet, specially drywall dust and paint. So I wore my comfy crocs.
 
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madison069

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Monroeville, PA
I got the plastic down on the floor and started priming the walls. The roller I got didn’t hold paint worth a **** and so coverage was uneven. Either it was thin or thick. They were cheap Amazon specials, a buddy recommended them as they worked for him, but they most of changed with my batch.

I got some touch up to do, and my wife is the edger when painting, so the baseboards needs to be edged on the drywall.
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Before I rolled,

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After I rolled.
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I went to Home Depot and got some Wooster rollers for the next paint session. They usually do me well.
 
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