Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT The Texas Barn in PA

[madison069]

Nice looking shop!

I actually need to call Ghostshield today to check on needing to do that 4500 densifier in my new storage shop, but I think its a very nice product. Have you already ordered yours?

Thanks!

I did get it ordered and when I emailed garage flooring I got this response from them.

So, I think I will do a few test spots where I know it will be covered by benches and see which one gives me the best results.

I’m sure every concrete is different but this would ensure I get the best results for mine.

 

[fouckhest]

I just spoke to them as well, I did the "water test" this weekend and it beaded up, so at their recommendation, I am going to use 3gal of the 8510 and be prepared to back roll it if/where/when it puddles/pools.

Will be interested to see your results.

 

[madison069]

Well I decided to get the garage cleared out so I can get the floor cleaned and ready for sealer. I took the time to pressure washed the floor and all of the expansion joints. Those joints were packed with saw dust, maple helicopters, and dirt. I scrubbed some stubborn spots and did my best to get all of the spots I could find cleaned.




I also did my best to direct the water spray away from the walls. I got one fan going over there, but once I clean up I’ll take another fan and a heater over there to speed up the drying process.

 

[flying_tomatoes]

cool build. for some reason that little bunker is super exciting

 

[madison069]

cool build. for some reason that little bunker is super exciting

You and me both. I’m hoping to do it justice with some nice heavy doors. I’m still unsure, but I got time to think about it. Was thinking rustic with big rustic black hardware.

 

[madison069]

Me and my wife got to talking about interior color for the barn and we seem to have difference of opinions.

I was thinking white, gray, and some red or maroon like this one.


She said it reminds her of the parking garages downtown and I do agree with her. Also, she’s said I already got so much red with the camaro and truck, that it would be nice to break it up.

She thinks this blue would look good in the barn.



I’m not against the blue as it’s a nice blue color.

So I’m just now throwing out ideas and looking at possibilities for the theme of the garage. Since I plan to replace my toolboxes and I can always paint my cabinets to a new color, now would be a good time to get the theme started.

 

[Mr onetwo]

1 vote for the blue here, maybe with white wainscotting

 

[larry4406]

I think the blue is too dark.

I would want a brighter space.

 

[jon72vega]

I think the blue is too dark.

I would want a brighter space.

That.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I would also lean towards a lighter color to keep the space bright.

 

[madison069]

Then I guess yall wouldn’t like this idea that ChatGPT came up with.

 

[fouckhest]

I would also vote for the lighter side, the dark looks great, but I'd worry that you'd be fighting for light while working in there

 

[madison069]

I ran out of ChatGPT image creation at the moment. I was going to ask it to lighten the colors. Will see what it comes up with.

 

[zmotorsports]

Cody, the shop is looking great.

As for interior paint, in my last shop I wanted "cool" so did a two tone with a 6" purple stripe around the shop about 4' high to separate the colors. It looked cool when painted but as soon as I started moving tools and equipment into the shop hardly any of it was noticeable as it was all covered by equipment and storage.

When I built my new shop, I just went with semi-gloss white for the whole thing and don't regret it. The lighter color sure aids better to lighting needs.

Also, you had mentioned back when doing your insulation about sound and heat. I can attest that the 2x6 walls stuffed with insulation sure offer much better noise and heat retentions than my last shop built using 2x4 construction. I have R-19 in the walls and R-38 blown in insulation in the ceiling and it is so freakin' comfortable in the winter and so quiet. My neighbors can be blowing snow or running their tractor next door and I can barely hear anything. The heater doesn't run nearly as much as I expected it to either, plus my Reznor is so much quieter than the Modine in my last shop that sounded like a damn jet taking off.

I love working in my shop in the nice weather with the doors all open, however, I love how quiet it is working in the shop in the winter with the doors shut and heater going, especially on those Saturday mornings with coffee in hand. There's something satisfying to walk out with a cup of coffee in the morning and walk into a nice warm shop to work with the stereo on. Can't wait until retirement when every day is Saturday and I can have that same feeling everyday.

 

[madison069]

Cody, the shop is looking great.

As for interior paint, in my last shop I wanted "cool" so did a two tone with a 6" purple stripe around the shop about 4' high to separate the colors. It looked cool when painted but as soon as I started moving tools and equipment into the shop hardly any of it was noticeable as it was all covered by equipment and storage.

When I built my new shop, I just went with semi-gloss white for the whole thing and don't regret it. The lighter color sure aids better to lighting needs.

Also, you had mentioned back when doing your insulation about sound and heat. I can attest that the 2x6 walls stuffed with insulation sure offer much better noise and heat retentions than my last shop built using 2x4 construction. I have R-19 in the walls and R-38 blown in insulation in the ceiling and it is so freakin' comfortable in the winter and so quiet. My neighbors can be blowing snow or running their tractor next door and I can barely hear anything. The heater doesn't run nearly as much as I expected it to either, plus my Reznor is so much quieter than the Modine in my last shop that sounded like a damn jet taking off.

I love working in my shop in the nice weather with the doors all open, however, I love how quiet it is working in the shop in the winter with the doors shut and heater going, especially on those Saturday mornings with coffee in hand. There's something satisfying to walk out with a cup of coffee in the morning and walk into a nice warm shop to work with the stereo on. Can't wait until retirement when every day is Saturday and I can have that same feeling everyday.

Thanks!

I hear ya about covering the walls with equipment and so on. I’m hoping to do a serious purge of my garage before the move and also reduce the clutter in the new garage. With the bunker area, I was hoping to use it for storage and less used items. This way I can keep the main garage clear and more open. We will see how that works out.

Between the insulation and putting the air compressor in the bunker, I’m looking forward to the quite garage when I want quite. I am also looking forward to spending time out there with a game on tv or the radio playing in the background.

I’ll have to check out the Reznor since it would be right in the corner over the bench area. So being quieter would be a plus.

Then again, being deaf as I am, I’m sure I won’t hear as much as other folks do in the garage but atleast I won’t hear it!

 

[zmotorsports]

Thanks!

I hear ya about covering the walls with equipment and so on. I’m hoping to do a serious purge of my garage before the move and also reduce the clutter in the new garage. With the bunker area, I was hoping to use it for storage and less used items. This way I can keep the main garage clear and more open. We will see how that works out.

Between the insulation and putting the air compressor in the bunker, I’m looking forward to the quite garage when I want quite. I am also looking forward to spending time out there with a game on tv or the radio playing in the background.

I’ll have to check out the Reznor since it would be right in the corner over the bench area. So being quieter would be a plus.

Then again, being deaf as I am, I’m sure I won’t hear as much as other folks do in the garage but atleast I won’t hear it!

It may be a bit late for this and don't remember where your placement of your overhead heater is, but I have found placing it near the overhead doors and blowing to the opposite corners keeps the heat inside the shop longer compared to aiming it back to the doors.

Both of my shops have been setup in this manner. In fact, with my new shop I actually aimed the heater towards the machining quandrant of the shop. My thinking was that when working on vehicles I seem to be moving more and therefore don't necessarily need the heat blowing directly on me, whereas when I am standing at the lathe or mill, I may want a bit more direct heat. After 8 years of working in the shop now I think I nailed it when it comes to where I directed the heat.

I also splurged a bit on overhead doors and spent a little more for a better insulated door which helps a lot, not only with the heat, but the noise levels from outside. And yes, having the compressor located outside the immediate shop area is a HUGE benefit in the noise department. In my last shop I built a 4'x4' insulated closet to house the compressor, and although it helped, it was still louder than I wanted. I worked with that thing running in the closet for nearly 25 years and in my current shop I placed the air compressor over in the RV/storage bay away from the immediate shop area and it is so pleasant without having to listen to that.

 

[drivesitfar]

How about your grey and white and maybe make the red strip blue to keep your bride smiling?

Your garage your color but blue seems a bit dark and you don’t live that close to the sun during the winter.

Nice work!!

 

[madison069]

It may be a bit late for this and don't remember where your placement of your overhead heater is, but I have found placing it near the overhead doors and blowing to the opposite corners keeps the heat inside the shop longer compared to aiming it back to the doors.

Both of my shops have been setup in this manner. In fact, with my new shop I actually aimed the heater towards the machining quandrant of the shop. My thinking was that when working on vehicles I seem to be moving more and therefore don't necessarily need the heat blowing directly on me, whereas when I am standing at the lathe or mill, I may want a bit more direct heat. After 8 years of working in the shop now I think I nailed it when it comes to where I directed the heat.

I also splurged a bit on overhead doors and spent a little more for a better insulated door which helps a lot, not only with the heat, but the noise levels from outside. And yes, having the compressor located outside the immediate shop area is a HUGE benefit in the noise department. In my last shop I built a 4'x4' insulated closet to house the compressor, and although it helped, it was still louder than I wanted. I worked with that thing running in the closet for nearly 25 years and in my current shop I placed the air compressor over in the RV/storage bay away from the immediate shop area and it is so pleasant without having to listen to that.

I tried to put the heater at the front of the building but I decided it wasn’t going to work and in the end it’s going in the rear of the building and hopefully pointed along the bench area. Which brings me to my next item to figure out, where do I place the thermostat? Usually it’s a no-no to place it near a window or door. But it’s looking more like the window next to the man door is the ideal location for the thermostat. Or just place it on the rear wall near the breaker panel, which would put the heater above it to the left.

I too went ahead and spent the coin for better insulated overhead doors. It wasn’t much difference in prices between the middle of the line and the nicer higher insulation version.

 

[madison069]

How about your grey and white and maybe make the red strip blue to keep your bride smiling?

Your garage your color but blue seems a bit dark and you don’t live that close to the sun during the winter.

Nice work!!

If I go with a blue color it will be lighter. I do know in her eyes, the half white and half gray is what’s making it look like the downtown parking lots.

I’m sure I’ll come up with a solution.

 

[zmotorsports]

I tried to put the heater at the front of the building but I decided it wasn’t going to work and in the end it’s going in the rear of the building and hopefully pointed along the bench area. Which brings me to my next item to figure out, where do I place the thermostat? Usually it’s a no-no to place it near a window or door. But it’s looking more like the window next to the man door is the ideal location for the thermostat. Or just place it on the rear wall near the breaker panel, which would put the heater above it to the left.

I too went ahead and spent the coin for better insulated overhead doors. It wasn’t much difference in prices between the middle of the line and the nicer higher insulation version.

I agree, near a door isn't ideal. However, that is where I put mine as well as where I had it at my last shop. I like it right where I can bump it back down as I'm walking out the door and turning off the lights all as one last visual check before locking up.

I found two factors that contribute to this location working for me. First, the shops were well insulated so it was less of an issue and no drafts coming through. Granted, my new shop is much better insulated than my last shop, but still quite well insulated. Secondly, I found that in my last shop, the temperature on the T-stat was lower than the actual shop temp so I knew the variance so where to keep the thermostat to achieve a desired temperature in the shop. In my current shop the heat from the overhead heater actually bypasses the thermostat and heads to the far side of the shop so it is much more accurate to actual shop temperatures, usually within a degree or two when checking with an IR gun at various locations around the shop. Lastly, I use my ceiling fans on the lowest setting to aid in forcing the heat down from the 16' ceilings which helps to keep a more even temperature throughout the shop and less run time on the heater. My gas bill is actually cheaper at this house than it was at my last, and the house is more than double the size and the shop is 3x the size.

I also don't like it really warm when working in the shop, I generally keep it at 50-degrees when I close up for the night and when I get home from work I bump it to around 62-64 degrees for working which I think right where I'm most comfortable. If I'm standing at the machines working it may be closer to 64-degrees and if I'm actually wrenching on a car or something I generally set it at 62-degrees.

 

[madison069]

So let the testing begin….

The left square has just 4500 on it, Middle square is one coat of 8510, and the right square has 2 coats of 8510.


Have to wait a week for the 4500 to cure and then I can put a coat of 8510 on it.

While waiting for the first coat of 8510 to soak in, I taped up two expansion joints.


Got one more expansion joint to tape off, then I will install baker rods and then fill the joints with Sika 1C-SL


I also made some depth go-no go gauges for ensuring the baker rods are set to 1/2” depth using 1/8” paint sticks.



Looks like Saturday will be the day of filling the expansion joints.

 

[fouckhest]

Looking forward to seeing your results, my ghostshield 8510 arrived yesterday. Need to plan when I can kick that project off.

 

[madison069]

Looking forward to seeing your results, my ghostshield 8510 arrived yesterday. Need to plan when I can kick that project off.

With winter coming, I need to hurry up. I have to give it 2 weeks for the 4500 and 8510 combination coats. I'm tempted to just do 8510 if either of the 8510 test shows it works. It just seems that 4500 is supposed to be a primer for 8510 but yet with the mix signal of "either way is fine" that I got, it seems like 4500 might not really matter.

 

[fouckhest]

Yeah, when I spoke to them on the phone, described the age of my concrete, it basically came down to if the concrete is too hard and you put the 4500 on it may not allow the 8510 to adhere

It will likely be a couple weeks before I can get to doing my floor, I'll be watching to see how your test spots come out.

 

[madison069]

Worked in the barn some, and I took the photo of the test area. Nothing looks different.


Then I installed the baker rod I got from @SilverJimmy , I just got them started with my finger and then using my go no go gauge I made from painter sticks, I pushed them down 1/2” deep.


Then I applied the joint sealer and left a nice bubble of the stuff on top of the joint.



I’ll go back later with the big razor blade and cut it all flush.

My youngest and my wife worked in the bunker and they laid the plastic down and then put the wire mesh down. I need to go back and cut the wire mesh around the basin, but otherwise I consider the bunker finished till the concrete floor is poured.



Slowly but surely we’re making progress.

 

[Bob Heine]

Seems like some of these contractors don’t listen when we describe what we need and want in our builds. I have to have a conversation with the cabinet guy. I told him what I was looking for in cabinets, he came thru with a quote more than a 1/3 of what my first house cost. HomeDespot is looking like the only option I might be able to afford!

Sterling, our first house cost us $14,500 (1966). It was a 3-bedroom, 1-bath, single car garage with full unfinished basement and stand-up attic (at the peak with no trusses). My gross pay was $110 a week and that was also the mortgage payment.

 

[madison069]

Sterling, our first house cost us $14,500 (1966). It was a 3-bedroom, 1-bath, single car garage with full unfinished basement and stand-up attic (at the peak with no trusses). My gross pay was $110 a week and that was also the mortgage payment.

I wish this barn was $15,000.

 

[drivesitfar]

Bob is a decade older than I am but wages were still $1 a day to deliver the local paper to 60 homes until I turned 16 and found a job paying $1.65 per hour. Yep I had a gift for saving money and turned down an offer to buy 3 homes in a decent area when I was 19 for $8,000 each that are worth about $750,000 each today. I wasn’t nearly as handy or sure I wanted to stay in drizzle town then so I passed even though I could have paid one off and she would have taken payments for the other two.

Bob still is a wealth of information and I think he was probably a manager for that $110 per week pay.

Love the jig to set the depth. Not sure how easy that sikaflex will be to cut to grade so hope you’re successful.

With the added concrete in bunker I think your ceiling height is about 5’6 finished? Still a great space for storage and your compressor so again nice work

 

[madison069]

Bob is a decade older than I am but wages were still $1 a day to deliver the local paper to 60 homes until I turned 16 and found a job paying $1.65 per hour. Yep I had a gift for saving money and turned down an offer to buy 3 homes in a decent area when I was 19 for $8,000 each that are worth about $750,000 each today. I wasn’t nearly as handy or sure I wanted to stay in drizzle town then so I passed even though I could have paid one off and she would have taken payments for the other two.

Bob still is a wealth of information and I think he was probably a manager for that $110 per week pay.

Love the jig to set the depth. Not sure how easy that sikaflex will be to cut to grade so hope you’re successful.

With the added concrete in bunker I think your ceiling height is about 5’6 finished? Still a great space for storage and your compressor so again nice work

I remember working at a convenience store for $3.75 an hour in high school. Only reason I worked there was for the free deli food and helping my aunt out. Otherwise, I was making most of my money during the summer with grass cutting. If I couldn't make $20 an hour or more when I was cutting grass, I didn't pull my mower off the truck. Only fixed income clients got discounted prices from me.

I'm hoping for the best with the sikaflex too, this seems to be the common process of cutting the sika flush with the concrete floor by others who had good experience. The jig was nice to use, it made it easy to ensure the rod was set at the proper depth and was easier to push the rod down verses using a putty knife.

Actually, the bunker finished height will be 5'10" between the beam and concrete floor, I must have described it wrong in the past. But I was wanting the finished height between the beam and the concrete floor to be right at my height. So, between the beams it will be 6'6" high. Should be enough clearance for the future air compressor, I hope.

 

[fouckhest]

How many tubes of the sika flex did you use for your garage? I am going to order some for my project, but dont want to buy too much, that stuff is kina pricey

 

[madison069]

How many tubes of the sika flex did you use for your garage? I am going to order some for my project, but dont want to buy too much, that stuff is kina pricey

I have to check, it didn’t go far I will say. The tube said it can go 25 linear feet but I think I was using a tube for every 15’. I know the bubble was a waste, but hopefully it’s a sacrifice worthy of a flush floor.

Oh I just bought the 12 pack of tubes on Amazon. I got some tubes left but with all of the concrete around here, I’m sure I’ll find a use for it.

 

[madison069]

This is the one I bought.

 

[fouckhest]

Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated!

 

[madison069]

So call me impatient but I tested the joint sealant and it was stiff. So I got to work on cutting it flush.


I used this razor scraper and just cut the sealant and tape up off the concrete.



I did have one low spot and I didn’t catch it till after I scrapped it.


Overall it’s a pretty successful job!



I’ve never had a garage floor with sealed joints!

Then I was looking at the test area for the sealer. I thought, well it’s been 5 days, so why not do a small water test.


Instantly the 8510 coating had the water balled up. But the 4500 allowed the water to soak in.

But I did noticed after cleaning the water up, the 2 coats of 8510 had no visible sign of water being on it. But the one coat of 8510 had some light signs of where it looks like water soaked in.




So those are the results so far. Now it begs the question, does the 4500 really matter since the 2 coats of 8510 seems to be working? Will the 4500 just make it a better result and maybe last longer?

But at least I do know that the 4500 will allow the floor sealer to soak into the cement. All that’s stopping me from getting the drywall supply ordered and have the crew come do the job, is the floor sealer.

 

[fouckhest]

Thanks for posting those, you've certainly affirmed for me that going with straight 8510 is the move. I would think you would be fine that way also, but like you said, you have the 4500...tough call.

If you could return the 4500, that may make the decision easier, maybe?

 

[cccoltsicehockey]

I did 4500 and the 8510 as well. They assured me that one flood coat was as good as 2 regular coats. So far the water I have got on it has beaded with no issue or marks.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I'd say use the densifier, making that upper layer stronger will help when dropping heavy things. I did a densifier and had enough Ghostshield to do at least 2 coats if I remember correctly.

 

[madison069]

Thanks for posting those, you've certainly affirmed for me that going with straight 8510 is the move. I would think you would be fine that way also, but like you said, you have the 4500...tough call.

If you could return the 4500, that may make the decision easier, maybe?

Unfortunately I had to open one jug of 4500 to do these tests. Sending one jug back might not be worth it.

 

[madison069]

I did 4500 and the 8510 as well. They assured me that one flood coat was as good as 2 regular coats. So far the water I have got on it has beaded with no issue or marks.

That’s what they said in the email to me too. Some other people’s bad results makes me think they didn’t get enough of the 8510 down and so it was a waste of their time. This is based on my experience so far with the test.

 

[madison069]

I'd say use the densifier, making that upper layer stronger will help when dropping heavy things. I did a densifier and had enough Ghostshield to do at least 2 coats if I remember correctly.

I know one thing. If I do the 4500, I’m still going to apply two coats of wet on wet of 8510 sealer because this will be the only time I can do this and not have to grind the surface down to redo the floor.