Above 1200 Sq/FT The Warthog Hidey Hole

[jbmatth]

I made a quick stop on the way home to finish the main wiring connect in Alex's shop:

He is now ready for the power company to connect him at the meter, looking forward to that as I'm sure he is too. It was about a year and a half ago when he first tried to get a shop built, and 6 months ago when they poured his concrete.

On the cobra engine rebuild front I masked off everything last night but ran out of time to paint. I covered the car today with some custom covers, and sprayed away:

I decided to spray the cast aluminum intake too, I think I like it this way better:

Sadly it looks like I missed a spot when using the mineral spirits before paint:

Cool look still so I might just leave it. I'll let it dry over the next couple of days and try to stuff the engine back in this weekend. I have to do some touch up painting in the engine bay before it goes back in as well though. Getting excited!

JB

 

[bj383ss]

Nice. Don't tell anyone but I have always preferred Ford's Engine Blue over the nasty corporate GM Blue. I painted the intake on the 64' Engine color as well. Helps camouflage a bit. I always clean grease parts with Acetone. Don't know if that is better than Mineral Spirits.

Bret

 

[Finallygotit]

Oh look, a Smurf motor.



Getting there JB!

 

[drivesitfar]

JB: your blue looks well BLUE and I bet it will look even better when back in your Cobra's body.

i've done that exact thing while spray painting after using WD 40 to wipe off some rust and forgetting to wipe/dry off the WD before painting. your call on whether to sand, wire wheel or just repaint.

nice work on the electrical box too.

stay warm.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Nice work JB.

I painted the intake on the '49 for that "stock" look. Also we used to paint the intakes on the 302's in our stock cars, cause they were aluminum, and not "technically" legal. Nevermind the roller cams....but hey, we had a cubic inch disadvantage. It was always fun to watch the 350 powered Chevys walk away from my wife out of the corners, and then for her to run them down before the next turn.

Advise to anyone out there racing at a dirt track, 90% of tech officials don't know how to "check" SBF powered race cars....always get a thumbs up and a "checks out".

 

[jbmatth]

Nice. Don't tell anyone but I have always preferred Ford's Engine Blue over the nasty corporate GM Blue. I painted the intake on the 64' Engine color as well. Helps camouflage a bit. I always clean grease parts with Acetone. Don't know if that is better than Mineral Spirits.

Bret

Secret is safe with me Bret, and I kinda have to agree. While standing at the paint isle I did have a little thought about using Chevy orange or even white just to be different, and make some people wonder. I normally use acetone too, but it was in the cold shop and I was in the warm garage with mineral spirits.

Oh look, a Smurf motor.



Getting there JB!

Baby steps, will be nice to get it installed.

JB: your blue looks well BLUE and I bet it will look even better when back in your Cobra's body.

i've done that exact thing while spray painting after using WD 40 to wipe off some rust and forgetting to wipe/dry off the WD before painting. your call on whether to sand, wire wheel or just repaint.

nice work on the electrical box too.

stay warm.

I used a bunch of WD40 when porting the intake manifold and it took forever to clean it all out. It'll be very bright in the cobra once all of the ancillary bits are installed.

Nice work JB.

I painted the intake on the '49 for that "stock" look. Also we used to paint the intakes on the 302's in our stock cars, cause they were aluminum, and not "technically" legal. Nevermind the roller cams....but hey, we had a cubic inch disadvantage. It was always fun to watch the 350 powered Chevys walk away from my wife out of the corners, and then for her to run them down before the next turn.

Advise to anyone out there racing at a dirt track, 90% of tech officials don't know how to "check" SBF powered race cars....always get a thumbs up and a "checks out".

I may have had that in mind when painting it and building the engine as a side benefit. If I race at a 1/4 mile track I have to use a helmet, if I go under a 13.99 I have to have a roll bar (Maybe a small cage, not sure.) but I don't want to ruin the lines of the car with one. If the car looks like it just has a stock looking 80's 302 with paint maybe I can sneak a run or two in before being asked to stop.

Last time I raced it I ran a 14.75 at 95, with the newfound spark advance, better flowing heads, slightly bigger cam, and freshly painted engine I don't see why I can't break into the 13's.

JB

 

[BUGTHUG]

I always clean grease parts with Acetone. Don't know if that is better than Mineral Spirits.

Bret[/QUOTE]

It smells better
JB, I just bought a **** load of stuff from a AllPro Parts store that closed for business after 60 years. Lots of ford stuff, you may need to come up and see if I have something you can use. Lots of shocks, muffler clamps, rotors and struts. etc. I'm not sure what the hell came over me?
It was my first and last online auction, man those $20.00 bids add up fast.
Sure glad my wife really loves me, but I had to give her some money to go to the casino for my punishment. I guess its my birthday present to me

 

[dchance]

JB, how far to where the asphalt starts? It is not unusual to see twin stripes and I’m sure that there is not that much traffic there.

Good to see that you are close to having it together.

Dwight

 

[jbmatth]

I always clean grease parts with Acetone. Don't know if that is better than Mineral Spirits.

Bret

It smells better
JB, I just bought a **** load of stuff from a AllPro Parts store that closed for business after 60 years. Lots of ford stuff, you may need to come up and see if I have something you can use. Lots of shocks, muffler clamps, rotors and struts. etc. I'm not sure what the hell came over me?
It was my first and last online auction, man those $20.00 bids add up fast.
Sure glad my wife really loves me, but I had to give her some money to go to the casino for my punishment. I guess its my birthday present to me[/QUOTE]

I might just have to check it out, I know what you mean, it is easy to get carried away in online auctions. I also suppose a happy birthday is in order.

JB, how far to where the asphalt starts? It is not unusual to see twin stripes and I’m sure that there is not that much traffic there.

Good to see that you are close to having it together.

Dwight

1.34 miles the short way to asphalt, and there is no house within a half mile of that, strangely there are a few twin stripes there. I am getting there slowly, looking forward to getting it in and ready to run the week of Thanksgiving hopefully.

JB

 

[jbmatth]

I have been getting a lot of little things done around the shop lately but haven't really gotten many photos of them, nor is there much to share. Well I did add a few more parts to the engine so it is getting closer:

I could probably install it now but wanted to clean the engine bay up more and throw some paint on it. Well distractions happened and it was a nice day so I took advantage of it by doing a lot of other outside stuff. I quickly blasted the headers and repaired the cracks in them again but suspect they will return. I then gave them a coat of black header paint and they came out looking pretty decent:

I spent the rest of the day filling the Green Dragon with scrap metal for the eventual run to the junk yard coming up. In the process of doing that I also started cutting up the other piece of 7" OD pipe for the chimney replacement. I have a couple of brothers coming next weekend and they are going to help get it installed hopefully just in time for cold weather.

JB

 

[jbmatth]

Getting a little accomplished, still working too many hours, I didn't make it home until right before bedtime but woke up at 3 so I knocked out a few things. The oil priming rod was delivered yesterday, so oil is primed, valve covers on permanently, spark plugs, and the distributor are complete as well. I'm also working slowly to clean up some of the other brackets before I do the final install and put the engine back in the car. Where I'm at now:

I'm surprised how long it takes to put it back together when I want everything to be clean and/or polished and/or painted. I think in the end it'll be worth it though and something I'll be happy with. Also the engine bay has been painted and is back to just being one color, not sure why I picked Chevy orange though:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=948576&stc=1&d=1574251814/IMG]

JB

 

[mybigwarwagon]

valve covers on permanently,
JB

I am not one to criticize wour methods, but don't you think they may come off at some point in the future?????


That engine would look better in orange.

 

[drivesitfar]

JB: your engine looks very PURDY!! hope your bros and you have some fun in your shop this weekend.

did you mention your 1/4 mile strip is the road in front of your home and do you have painted start and finish lines on it?

I like that a lot better than hearing you are going to take your PURDY COBRA and it's nicely painted engine out to a dirt track.

hope you are staying warm!!

 

[jbmatth]

I am not one to criticize wour methods, but don't you think they may come off at some point in the future?????


That engine would look better in orange.

JB Weld > RTV I didn't want to have to worry about leaks, I figured this was the best bet.

I debated on white for a minute, it would make seeing the oil leaks easier but doesn't hide shoddy work as well.

JB: your engine looks very PURDY!! hope your bros and you have some fun in your shop this weekend.

did you mention your 1/4 mile strip is the road in front of your home and do you have painted start and finish lines on it?

I like that a lot better than hearing you are going to take your PURDY COBRA and it's nicely painted engine out to a dirt track.

hope you are staying warm!!

I'm sure we will have a blast, we usually do, but I doubt we will toast to anything stronger than water until after the workday is over. I'm the bad influence, they keep me grounded.

There is a real 1/4 mile drag strip about 10 miles from the house but 7 of that is gravel. The other test track is only 1.34 miles of gravel, no painted lines though, it isn't prepped well enough to get a good launch, needs more rubber.

It was around 70°F the past few days and only got down to mid 40's last night so I'm not complaining too much.

JB

 

[rixtrix1]

On the cobra engine rebuild front I masked off everything last night but ran out of time to paint. I covered the car today with some custom covers, and sprayed away:

I decided to spray the cast aluminum intake too, I think I like it this way better:

JB

Wow, JB, I ,miss your thread for a few weeks and you've totally rebuilt everything you own, lol.
When I built my Chevelle engine for Stock Elim drag racing, I painted my cast iron intake with silver header paint and baked it for 5 hours in an oven. Paint stuck on forever and I made a lot of money from protesters claiming I had an illegal intake on my engine. It took a $75 bond to put in a protest claim, to cover the cost of gaskets, time, etc if you were found to be legal, e money was yours. A simple magnet test proved me legal( and the correct casting number) and I got my days expenses+ paid for.
I agree with your reasoning for using what you have on the rebuild. The car's a driver and has taken you a lot of places, so no need to hotrod it any more. As for the water in your frame, you may want to consider coating the inside of the tubes with that spray-in Eastwood inside frame coating( I forget the correct name) after you drill some drain holes

 

[jbmatth]

Wow, JB, I ,miss your thread for a few weeks and you've totally rebuilt everything you own, lol.
When I built my Chevelle engine for Stock Elim drag racing, I painted my cast iron intake with silver header paint and baked it for 5 hours in an oven. Paint stuck on forever and I made a lot of money from protesters claiming I had an illegal intake on my engine. It took a $75 bond to put in a protest claim, to cover the cost of gaskets, time, etc if you were found to be legal, e money was yours. A simple magnet test proved me legal( and the correct casting number) and I got my days expenses+ paid for.
I agree with your reasoning for using what you have on the rebuild. The car's a driver and has taken you a lot of places, so no need to hotrod it any more. As for the water in your frame, you may want to consider coating the inside of the tubes with that spray-in Eastwood inside frame coating( I forget the correct name) after you drill some drain holes

Rix,
Not quite rebuilding everything, but some days it feels like it with as long as it has taken me. Of course I am at work now and have been here for 11 hours with a bit more to go after my "smoke break", so that takes time as well.

That is pretty cool, I am sure you would make a little off of that little trick. I'm just claiming I'm being lazy and painting it blue with the engine was easier than masking it off. When the "next engine" goes in it'll have plenty more power, but this one has lasted me 9 years so what is another 9? Wait then I'll have a kid in college, I better do it before then.

I know what you are referring to on the frame spray, not a bad idea and off to the rain forest before I finish this last "smoke".

JB

 

[jbmatth]

All,
Back from a week off and kinda caught up, just in time to take another 3 days off. That'll finish out my vacation for the year so I'm glad I didn't loose any this year. I had a couple of brothers up again for a few days to help me with a couple projects. First was getting a "new" tractor home that of course didn't run. As per my usual what I said would be a 2 hour task took closer to 5 hours:

It is home now and was very hairy, we had to jack up the bucket and used an oil field pipe to prop it up, then chained it to my truck which proceeded to do a 4wd spin in the grass trying to pull it. Eventually found broke it free, aired up the tires, got it moving, then put it in the RIGHT neutral. The worst part was the steering, there is almost 2 full turns of dead steering and not running it was very hard to turn the wheels to make the 4 turns required to drive the 15.1 miles back to my house. It is there now and I have an early 60's John Deere 4010 with a bucket I will work on...eventually.

Next up was to install a new chimney in the Warthog Hidey Hole, easy right? It is just a few pieces of stove pipe that slips together. Well it would be if that is what I did. Remember the 7" drill stem casing I used for the approach for the front door? Well I had 20 more feet of it that was ear marked for a chimney. I knew I couldn't put it in from the top, and standing a 14' (4.5m) chimney up in a spot meant for an 11' (3.5m) wouldn't work. I made one 11' (3.5M) piece and one 3' (1m) piece, we stood the taller one up, then lifted it with the cherry picker and a choker threw the old chimney hole I'd enlarged for it to fit. Once to the right height and leveled we moved the shorter piece in place along with the framework to support it, and welded them together:

See I did take some photos once things settled down a bit. As you can see I moved the stove into place to install the interconnecting pipe. That piece had to be 6" (152.4mm) diameter to fit in the stove, I used a piece of 16 ga steel and rolled it to size:

All fit up and ready to cut the opening with the plasma cutter (Man I love playing with that thing), and weld it all up:

The last step was to weld some standoffs to a disc (with the center hole filled in) Andy traded me a while back and drill holes to install it on the top:

Ahh, all done, I built a fire in it last weekend and it works great. Oh yeah I also installed the damper in that little spool but didn't take photos of it. Next up I loaded the little Green Dragon onto the trailer, filled it with scrap and hauled it away.

More to come but I have to run for a few minutes,
JB

 

[jbmatth]

I have been working on the cobra engine a bit as well. I was ready to install it before I left for Thanksgiving with just a couple of more pieces to install:

Or so I thought, I posted it on my book of faces account and mentioned the triple valve springs, someone mentioned I should double check the directions. Turns out they were right, during the break in procedure for the new cam and lifters you are only supposed to have the outer valve spring installed. This didn't make me happy, my valve spring compressor is a major pain to use, I eventually found a better alternative and it was $2.99 plus a little grinding and drilling time:

Yep a flat crow bar:

It works amazingly well and it took longer to get air into the cylinders than it did to pull the springs. Speaking of air in the cylinders I used the hose from a compression tester with the schrader valve removed and connected to my small air compressor. This allowed me to put 75 PSI (~5 bar) in the cylinder to keep the valve stationary while I changed the springs out.

I managed to install the engine last night:

Then this morning I installed the headers, carb, and the wiring. I marked a location on the passenger exhaust pipe for the O2 sensor location, removed the old brass radiator, and made another small parts list. The biggest unknown I have left is the transmission, I don't want to test run the
engine until I have the trans fixed and installed. Fingers crossed it'll be smooth sailing and it'll be back together this weekend.

JB

P.S. I just remembered I also rebuilt two big 4'x4'x8' (1.3mx1.3mx2.7m) shelving units, one I kept and put a nearly complete SBF on and the other I'm giving away, no photos, but was a pretty big project I wanted to share.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

You've been busy JB! That 4010 will make a nice addition to the property!

 

[Thirdyfivepickup]

even though its a "mistake" I really dig the pattern on the end of the cylinder head... I hope you kept it

 

[jbmatth]

You've been busy JB! That 4010 will make a nice addition to the property!

It was a good week off and I really enjoyed the family time. I know it isn't for everyone but I took my daughters and one nephew to watch Frozen 2, first movie I've taken them to in a few years and it was much more enjoyable this time around.

I have one hopefully small repair job to do on the duramax then I'll drag the 4010 into the shop, it'll need to earn its keep to stick around though.

even though its a "mistake" I really dig the pattern on the end of the cylinder head... I hope you kept it

I certainly did, if only I could have gotten the entire engine to look that way, I really liked it as well, ignore the fact I was too lazy to start over.

JB

 

[patlun]

.

Nice looking engine... i hope it will run without any problems at first run

JB

P.S. I just remembered I also rebuilt two big 4'x4'x8' (1.3mx1.3mx2.7m) shelving units, one I kept and put a nearly complete SBF on and the other I'm giving away, no photos, but was a pretty big project I wanted to share.

And thank you for giving us Imperial challenged people a idea what you are talking about. Really appreciated

 

[drivesitfar]

JB: looks like you are making a lot of progress on the Cobra and nice homemade tool for the valves.

so the new JD needs to carry it's weight and you won't be starting a rusty tractor acre to rival Andy's?

make sure to check all the boxes before starting it up, but I have faith you will and best of luck hearing it purr like a lion.

cheers

 

[TMcCay]

JB, glad you reread your instructions on the valve springs. That could have been a premature disaster to all your hard work. And the new tool for the valves is a great idea. May have to borrow that one some day. TM

 

[jbmatth]

And thank you for giving us Imperial challenged people a idea what you are talking about. Really appreciated

Glad I could help, I try to do that as often as possible but sometimes miss it or don't know the proper scale.

JB: looks like you are making a lot of progress on the Cobra and nice homemade tool for the valves.

so the new JD needs to carry it's weight and you won't be starting a rusty tractor acre to rival Andy's?

make sure to check all the boxes before starting it up, but I have faith you will and best of luck hearing it purr like a lion.

cheers

I don't plan to start an iron farm, but one rarely intends to start one now do they?

It sure did purr like a lion, more to come on that front later.

JB, glad you reread your instructions on the valve springs. That could have been a premature disaster to all your hard work. And the new tool for the valves is a great idea. May have to borrow that one some day. TM

In some ways I agree, it at least eliminated that possibility of failure. I really like that tool and used it again to install the rest of the valve springs and it is still about the fastest manual one I've every used.

Update of my time off coming soon.

JB

 

[jbmatth]

Well I'll have to make this quick, I needed to make a fan shroud for the new radiator as I really couldn't find anything online to buy and the universal ones were more than they were worth. So this is what I came up with:

This is a piece of 16 ga. that has 1/4-20 nuts welded to the back side so I can put the shroud on the radiator and just thread bolts in to hold it in place, same for the fan, really convenient honestly:

With that installed and verifying all of the fluids I connected the timing light to get a rough first check of the timing when started. A few cranks later and BOOM, we have a running engine! Woo hoo, oil pressure was around 40 PSI (3 bar), every other gauge looked good. Timing set at 10° BTDC (Before Top Dead Center), idle raised to just over 2,000 per the cam break in procedure then I noticed the oil pressure had dropped to 20. Kept a close eye on it as it dropped to 10, then I shut it down.

Long story short I managed to put in the wrong oil (5w-20), changed it for break in oil and (10w-40) did a quick coolant flush and fired it back up, very quickly this happened:

I broke a hose clamp and lost the lower radiator hose. Now I had nasty rusty water all over the fresh painted engine and engine bay not to mention my garage.

Let it cool down over night and fixed that. Started it back up and oil pressure was dropping again, shut it down to pull the oil pan and check the pump and bearings:

Rut roll Scooby Do:

I guess I know what I'm doing for the next couple of weeks.

I've thought about a few possible causes but nothing seems like it should have caused it, I do know this time the block will be going to the machine shop for a hot tank if the crank isn't too bad before all new bearings. Win some loose some...all a learning experience.

Keep moving forward,
JB

 

[TMcCay]

Ouch!

 

[sean Buick 76]

Oops, good luck on getting the engine sorted out.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Bummer on the bearing issues JB, hopefully the next round will resort in a more joyous outcome!

 

[jbmatth]

Ouch!

Not exactly the words I used.

Oops, good luck on getting the engine sorted out.

Thanks, I hear you are pretty good with engines...

Bummer on the bearing issues JB, hopefully the next round will resort in a more joyous outcome!

I say it can only get better from here, but failure is always an option.

JB

 

[mybigwarwagon]

Those grooves in the bearings give it extra traction.

 

[Bob Heine]

JB, if you get an estimate for the repairs, keep in mind that a decent long block with a roller cam (fewer break-in issues) is around $1,800. I believe you have to change the distributor gear for that cam but everything else should bolt on it should take everything you already have.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bpf30216c/applications/make/ford?prefilter=1

 

[Lwel9226]

Sorry to hear about that....
You might think about looking into what Bob Heine suggested... I think you would be very happy with the result... IMHO...

Lynn W

 

[bj383ss]

Sorry to hear JB. If it makes you feel any better the 383 in my Caprice has the same fate. It happened after it ate a few cam lobes. I changed the cam but either the cam bearings are shot or the rods, or the mains, or all three. Mine only has about 3,000 miles on it since full rebuild so I am sure if I took it apart I could have it cleaned, the crank polished and all new bearings installed. For now I am running straight 50 weight race oil in it.

Bret

 

[Nlped]

What Bob said, or you can retrofit your block with a roller camshaft.

Fwiw: I just rebuilt, assembled and dyno’ed a 1975 351W for a close friend and did this. Mutha Thumper comp roller cam with Howard’s conversion lifters, mild set of Chinese aluminum heads (I disassembled, cleaned and once overed them), .030” over flat top forged pistons (cool to say he has a 357 cu), Edelbrock rpm airgap intake and Holley Sniper made 494 hp & 487 ftlb’s. Pretty damn respectable...& actually about 50 more hp than I expected.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Joe-R]

Hi JB,

That is a bummer!!! I had a similar experience due to having a flat tappet cam but not running oil with the proper amount of ZDDP. I can't remember what type of cam and oil you're using. I can provide more info if required. You probably know all this already though.

Good luck and may the force be with you!!!
Joe

 

[XJSuperman]

Wow I had some catching up to do. Its nice seeing a little bit of green in the middle of all this blue you've been working on! That 4010 will last you forever if you get it operational again. Super handy and plenty big to do anything around your place I think. Snow removal, heavy lifting, pulling engines, digging, fire duty, mowing brush, you name it! I love my 2 cylinders (your B), but a slightly more modern tractor and loader is more practical. Cobra is looking good, keep going!

I just put heat in my garage as well. I used a nat gas furnace but getting the little "chimney vent" pipe worked out was not fun. Too many different types of pipe, none of them play well together, and the different stores carry different brands that dont work even though its the same type. Grr. Hopefully your stove will keep it relatively warm in there for you this winter.

 

[jbmatth]

Wow, lots of responses, hopefully I can answer/reply them all before I time out.

Those grooves in the bearings give it extra traction.

The groves just give the oil extra room to soak in right? RIGHT?!?

JB, if you get an estimate for the repairs, keep in mind that a decent long block with a roller cam (fewer break-in issues) is around $1,800. I believe you have to change the distributor gear for that cam but everything else should bolt on it should take everything you already have.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bpf30216c/applications/make/ford?prefilter=1

Bob,
The thought has crossed my mind, sadly the engine you linked is a 302 which most of what I have would work on the exhaust may not, the intake and distributor won't though as mine is a 351w. I've found a few others online that aren't too bad cost wise though. Either way a bigger set back than I wanted, and thank you for the suggestions, all are welcome at this point.

Sorry to hear about that....
You might think about looking into what Bob Heine suggested... I think you would be very happy with the result... IMHO...

Lynn W

But what would be the fun in only destroying one engine I "built"?

Sorry to hear JB. If it makes you feel any better the 383 in my Caprice has the same fate. It happened after it ate a few cam lobes. I changed the cam but either the cam bearings are shot or the rods, or the mains, or all three. Mine only has about 3,000 miles on it since full rebuild so I am sure if I took it apart I could have it cleaned, the crank polished and all new bearings installed. For now I am running straight 50 weight race oil in it.

Bret

Sorry to hear about your's as well, not sure exactly what happened, or how bad the damage is just yet, I hope to have the engine on a stand before I leave for work tomorrow though. If I'm lucky I'll even have a photo to share.

What Bob said, or you can retrofit your block with a roller camshaft.

Fwiw: I just rebuilt, assembled and dyno’ed a 1975 351W for a close friend and did this. Mutha Thumper comp roller cam with Howard’s conversion lifters, mild set of Chinese aluminum heads (I disassembled, cleaned and once overed them), .030” over flat top forged pistons (cool to say he has a 357 cu), Edelbrock rpm airgap intake and Holley Sniper made 494 hp & 487 ftlb’s. Pretty damn respectable...& actually about 50 more hp than I expected.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is really impressive, reading through the build I would have guessed low to mid 400 range, but wow!

Hi JB,

That is a bummer!!! I had a similar experience due to having a flat tappet cam but not running oil with the proper amount of ZDDP. I can't remember what type of cam and oil you're using. I can provide more info if required. You probably know all this already though.

Good luck and may the force be with you!!!
Joe

I am/was using a hydraulic flat tappet cam, I had a case of Redline oil with ZDDP in it as well as break in oil and initially I didn't pour it in but rather filled it with 5w-20. I have no clue why, but the oil didn't look bad, the filter was clean and no sparkles, I can't say the same for when I changed it after 15-20 more minutes of run time though.

Wow I had some catching up to do. Its nice seeing a little bit of green in the middle of all this blue you've been working on! That 4010 will last you forever if you get it operational again. Super handy and plenty big to do anything around your place I think. Snow removal, heavy lifting, pulling engines, digging, fire duty, mowing brush, you name it! I love my 2 cylinders (your B), but a slightly more modern tractor and loader is more practical. Cobra is looking good, keep going!

I just put heat in my garage as well. I used a nat gas furnace but getting the little "chimney vent" pipe worked out was not fun. Too many different types of pipe, none of them play well together, and the different stores carry different brands that dont work even though its the same type. Grr. Hopefully your stove will keep it relatively warm in there for you this winter.

XJ, I really hoped to be working on some green by now, but the blue is living up to its reputation...or my true skills are showing through.

The stove doesn't have a snowballs chance in hell at keeping up in the shop, it will hopefully give me a warm area to thaw out though. Luckily all of the work on the cobra is in the house garage and is usually pretty comfortable temp. wise.

JB

 

[Growlertdi]

wow what a gut punch. Did you use any plastigage to check clearances on the new bearings when you were installing them? I went back and saw where you had trouble with a couple of the bearings being too tight (rolled them or something) and you had to order new ones? perhaps more than just the two were too tight or you got some FO (foreign object) in the crankcase from the exhaust porting you did.. (remembering the huge baggie of shavings you cleaned up and said were in the air and going up your nose)

anyhoo, I know you will get to the bottom of this and get it put together right. Best of luck JB! we are rooting for you.

 

[jbmatth]

wow what a gut punch. Did you use any plastigage to check clearances on the new bearings when you were installing them? I went back and saw where you had trouble with a couple of the bearings being too tight (rolled them or something) and you had to order new ones? perhaps more than just the two were too tight or you got some FO (foreign object) in the crankcase from the exhaust porting you did.. (remembering the huge baggie of shavings you cleaned up and said were in the air and going up your nose)

anyhoo, I know you will get to the bottom of this and get it put together right. Best of luck JB! we are rooting for you.

Growlertdi,
That is a very good summary and it is the top three of my suspected contributors list. To answer your questions, I did not plastigage the bearings, prior to this I was under the impression that was only needed if machining had been done, I will be doing that upon re-assembly. I don't believe I rolled any of the others at least by feel anyway, I do wonder if I built up some material on the journals when switching them out though.

Lastly the port work was all done in the main shop rather than the garage where the short block was located. Once complete, I cleaned them in bath water, and blew them dry. The next day or so I was ready to install them and saw shavings still present, I then used a water hose to spray them out as well as the water jackets, I honestly can't remember if I cleaned out the oil galleys or not. That is now really the most likely scenario as some of the material in the pan was magnetic. There is the chance I'll never know for sure but I will correct everything I suspect I may have done wrong on this round.

JB