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Vintage Craftsman Table Saw Thread

Outlawmws

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How thick of lumber? how small a table can you live with?

I would find one that has the motor attached to the saw, rather than separate like my 7" tilting table. OR that may be OK if it son a deck and you maybe use a B&D workmate as the base. (slide out of a truck bed right onto the Workmate?)

My 7" TS - the table is all of 10 X 14 or so:

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I've used this one exclusively for 4-5 years now... BUT I haven't done any huge thick chunks...
 

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larryq

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I'm restoring a Craftsman 100 saw, will post a video when done of course, but was wondering what year(s) mine may have been made? It's a 113.27520 model, and the manual for it can be found here:

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/3549.pdf

Also wondering what sort of add-ons might be available to prevent blade kickback and / or make it safer.

I like these suckers and they appear to be well-made, though the dial gear (part 33 in the manual above) in mine had a few teeth missing. Fortunately a gentleman at owwm.org had some parts for sale in the classified section and for not much money I got a new one.

A little surprised the gear in question has such small teeth and is made of a sort of pot metal; combined and you have a part that just begs to break. I've seen other Craftsman 100s and they use a worm gear instead of the ring gear, a sturdier design IMO though feel free to correct me or disagree if I misunderstand things.
 

Outlawmws

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Larry, with a pic we can probably get to the decade, but maybe owwm has something?

Barry, that used to be a feature here, but was apparently disabled or discontinued.
 
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larryq

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Larry, with a pic we can probsbly r=get to the decade, but maybe owwm has something?

Barry, that used to be a feature here, but was apparently disabled or discontinued.

She's disassembled at the moment but when I put 'er back together I'll be sure to post here, to clear up the mystery.
 

berickson

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Jul 25, 2019
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Searching: Sears 113.27521 10" Arbor Saw Part

I'm hoping one of the other members might be able to help me with a long-standing search for a saw part. My grandfather was a finish carpenter, and many years ago I inherited his Sears 10" arbor table saw, nearly all parts included. I've maintained it well, including having the motor rebuilt, adding safety switching, etc.

However, despite having the guard and splitter assembly, the mounting bracket for this never came into my possession. I'm hoping someone here has one they'd be willing to sell, or can help me find one.

Thanks for the help.
 

rickhigginshtbr

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Lower Bucks, PA
Re: Searching: Sears 113.27521 10" Arbor Saw Part

I'm hoping one of the other members might be able to help me with a long-standing search for a saw part. My grandfather was a finish carpenter, and many years ago I inherited his Sears 10" arbor table saw, nearly all parts included. I've maintained it well, including having the motor rebuilt, adding safety switching, etc.

However, despite having the guard and splitter assembly, the mounting bracket for this never came into my possession. I'm hoping someone here has one they'd be willing to sell, or can help me find one.

Thanks for the help.

Whats the model number of the saw?
 

berickson

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Re: Searching: Sears 113.27521 10" Arbor Saw Part

Thanks for the reply! The model number is 113.27521.
 

bagged89s10

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so it’s time to let my craftsman 8” table saw go. if someone wants it complete. I’ll let it go for $200. if not I am parting it out. Main accessories are the 2 extension wings, micro adjust fence and rails(with extra rails as well), and rear extension rollers.

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flanneltuba

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Creswell
Good thread - lots of information, except what I need!
I have a couple of the ubiquitous 8" Craftsman table saws of the 103. variety. Been using one for ten years; the second I just bought for a donor- mostly because it has the nice cast iron wings. Now it appears it's more complete than I thought and I may be forced to put it back in usable condition. I'm going to mix and match to make one saw the best possible and maybe sell the other. I've been through these enough to know most of what makes 'em tick. The one thing I don't know is how to replace the arbor bearings. I can't see any kind of bearing retainer, screwed on or c-clip as some have. Is it possible they're just pressed in? I'd sure hate to stick it on the 20-ton and find out the hard way there's some retainer I didn't see! The two saws are: user - 103.23834. Donor - 103.22161. They appear identical, but I've found some detail differences in the rip fences. Any help will be much appreciated!

I came up against the same issues when I rebuilt mine. OWWM and Vintage Machinery don't have the best search functions, not do they work as well with google as other forums, but I did research this topic about a year ago. What I found was that the bearings were water pump bearings, and are very difficult to remove.

Given that there wasn't excessive wear on my unit, I opted to leave well enough alone.

I suggest that advice may be well heeded in many other cases.

I'll continue to search those forums today to see if I can find a useful link

I have a 9" 103.20002 Craftsman table saw with the exact same arbor bearing as the OP has, and was equally as puzzled as to how to remove and potentially replace the bearings. (My bearings are intact but slightly loose and worn.) I found the solution after removing the entire arbor armature and carefully inspecting all surfaces. Sure enough there is a small, inconspicuous set screw which keeps the bearing in place. See attached pics. After removing this set screw and gently heating the cast armature a bit by waving it in the exhaust draft of a torch (Read: a few careful inches after the flame) I was able to tap out the entire shaft together with the bearing.

Before you go to this effort, let me tell you I was NOT able to find a way to remove the shaft from the bearing—it probably presses out, but since after a reasonable amount of Google searching, was NOT able to find any source of this bearing anywhere on earth (well on the internet at least), I decided there was no point in risking destroying my otherwise serviceable bearing to test this theory. It is a very unusual bearing. I envision that the manufacturer (King?) had a couple train cars full of surplus WWII bearings and turned them into table saw arbor bearings. After this run of saws, they switched to more conventional bearings. I suspect this bearing has not been manufactured since 1955 or so, and finding a NOS, let alone a new one, is likely impossible. For reference, and for anyone who might have better luck than me in finding one, the part number on the bearing seal is, MRC 5200 ZZ.

I realize that the original poster will most certainly have moved on and not longer is concerned with how to remove the bearings from an old Craftsman table saw, but I wanted to post my findings for posterity, so the next person who searches the internet for information on how to access the arbor bearings on this type of saw, (like I did) will be spared a half a day's time, and the potential to destroy their saw. Call it a message in a bottle...

- Scott
 

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DaveT

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I’ve posted this saw in another thread here on GJ but after reading through this thread tonight thought I would share it here also. I picked this up about a year ago from a guy who was selling a bandsaw, and when I went to pickup the bandsaw he said he also needed to sell his table saw. Imagine my surprise/excitement when he showed me this saw and he said how about $100 I

It is a 1959 103.2260 with a 1HP motor. Everything is all original including the paint. The only thing I changed was the on/off switch. The saw runs like a dream. The fence is dead accurate and very easy to use. I think the reason this saw was in such great shape was due to the fact that the motor was wired wrong when I got it, and probably since it was new in 1959. The 110/220 motor was wired in the 220V configuration, but had a 110V power cord. So the first time I went to cut a board it was way underpowered and stalled out continuously. After switching the 3 wires in the motor for 110V configuration it ran like a champ! Now it makes sense why the guy I bought it from had a 8” blade on it.
 

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bubinga

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I’ve posted this saw in another thread here on GJ but after reading through this thread tonight thought I would share it here also. I picked this up about a year ago from a guy who was selling a bandsaw, and when I went to pickup the bandsaw he said he also needed to sell his table saw. Imagine my surprise/excitement when he showed me this saw and he said how about $100 I

It is a 1959 103.2260 with a 1HP motor. Everything is all original including the paint. The only thing I changed was the on/off switch. The saw runs like a dream. The fence is dead accurate and very easy to use. I think the reason this saw was in such great shape was due to the fact that the motor was wired wrong when I got it, and probably since it was new in 1959. The 110/220 motor was wired in the 220V configuration, but had a 110V power cord. So the first time I went to cut a board it was way under-powered and stalled out continuously. After switching the 3 wires in the motor for 110V configuration it ran like a champ! Now it makes sense why the guy I bought it from had a 8” blade on it.
Wow, you stole it for $100.00!
good job on fixing the wiring.
 

Stuart in MN

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That's a good looking saw. It's possible the previous owner was using a 120vac plug and receptacle that were (incorrectly) wired for 240vac - that sort of thing was very unsafe but not uncommon in a home shop.
 
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DaveT

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Bubinga: Yes I defiantly felt like I stole it. I guess to help ease my conscience a bit, the bandsaw that I bought from the same guy for $50 was a dog and I will be scrapping! Yea I got a little lucky figuring out the wiring.

Stuart: Thanks I do think it is a great looking saw and I am thankful to have it. Yes it’s possible that someone could have wired 220 into a 110 receptacle but that would be scary!
 

bubinga

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Bubinga: Yes I defiantly felt like I stole it. I guess to help ease my conscience a bit, the bandsaw that I bought from the same guy for $50 was a dog and I will be scrapping! Yea I got a little lucky figuring out the wiring.

Stuart: Thanks I do think it is a great looking saw and I am thankful to have it. Yes it’s possible that someone could have wired 220 into a 110 receptacle but that would be scary!:shocking::shocking:
Yeah, Like the 3 belts on it too!
Well, scary in as much as not knowing it was a 220 outlet,
I agree not a good thing. :shocking::shocking:
But electrical wise, and amperage wise, I think it would handle the volts and amps, would it not?
(Not saying it's right. or OK to do now)

Awe,Too bad about the band saw, wasn't that a Walker Turner 16" bandsaw?
 

faultymechanics

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Franconia
Hoping I can get some info on this table saw I'm looking at buying, anything special I should be mindful of?

Model: 113.12190

https://scontent-lga3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/68630966_10214841526016180_1786371233068089344_n.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_ohc=32r6cZGvW_IAX8pO-Uo&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.**&oh=3c46412589b6af37069a9890b6f20a75&oe=5ED497BA

https://scontent-lga3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/69413707_10214841283810125_2087732737287913472_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_ohc=rlRwU03C7jIAX8472G2&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.**&oh=f23ec0ac228c964403dec76300d3f880&oe=5E95A5D6

https://scontent-lga3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/69260064_10214841284530143_6443629835213340672_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_ohc=Hg91K9Lwk0IAX-oWMVo&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.**&oh=1fc57cc220a6439aa3101f1e8ea01480&oe=5ECCC891

Thoughts?
 

lafester

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I don't like the steel extensions and it is missing the blade guard, but otherwise looks pretty clean.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

lafester

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Yeah, Like the 3 belts on it too!
Well, scary in as much as not knowing it was a 220 outlet,
I agree not a good thing. :shocking::shocking:
But electrical wise, and amperage wise, I think it would handle the volts and amps, would it not?
(Not saying it's right. or OK to do now)

Awe,Too bad about the band saw, wasn't that a Walker Turner 16" bandsaw?
If it was he better not scrap it!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

CKS1955

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Yes I defiantly felt like I stole it...

That is a great price for that table saw. I believe it has the rare larger motor mount option. This option included the triple belt pulleys, larger belt guard and larger motor mount. This was an option for the 1-1/2 hp motor.

I really like my similar saw. I posted some pictures of the comparison between the two options.
Jay
 

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faultymechanics

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I had one, it was a very nice, little accurate saw!
You'll want to build an out feed extension table for it.
What's he asking for it?
Did you go get it?
Take's a 9" blade BTY.

Guy wants $40, holding it for me until I can pick it up.

Seems to be in great shape for the most part. Definitely want to install a safer switch that can’t be bumped.
 

bubinga

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Guy wants $40, holding it for me until I can pick it up.

Seems to be in great shape for the most part. Definitely want to install a safer switch that can’t be bumped.
Can't beat that price, not by much at least...lol.
Yeah, don't like where the switch is on that one.
IIRC mine didn't have a switch at all.....:wtf:......... Plug it in, and it runs.
 

RSwannabe

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Today I picked up this 113.27610 saw off Craigslist with 1hp Craftsman motor. It seems pretty complete with fence and miter guage and two extension tables. Along with it I got a 103.0803 belt/disc sander and a 4" Rockwell Delta joiner. The sander is missing the table for the disc. Both were on homemade wood bases and the joiner and sander shared the same base with 1/3 hp motor. I got all three for free, so I can't complain about any missing parts. The saw came with a bunch of spare blades and rabbits, and some neat old woodworking mags from the '60's.
 

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RSwannabe

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Here are the sander and the joiner that came with the saw.
 

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McFarmer

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Didn’t know about this thread. Here’s mine, my grandfather bought it in the 1960s:





I’ve tuned it up and it will run with any saw for what I do. I’ve got 44” on each side of the blade. The router uses the same fence. Vacuum comes on with the saw switch.
 
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