Obviously falls under the "Don't be fooled" tag.No. 200X Cast Hand Vise. 8oz.
THE READING SADDLE AND MANUFACTURING CO.
Reading, PA
No. 202 Heavy Cast Bench Vise. 1 3/8" jaws 1.2 lb.
No. 202H 2 1/8" jaws. 2.4 lb.
No. 210 Cast Anvil Bench Vise. 7.2 oz.
Weights are approximations since the given weight information was for a gross of vises.
Incidentally, the "Best by Test" tag line was a marketing gimmick. Many companies made the same claim. Don't be fooled!











With things like that, I always wonder if Berg just stamped their name on it, vs custom made for them, vs made in house. That looks like a pretty standard hand vise, but could go any of the three options.I've had this hand vice in a toolbox for a few years. I wasn't until I got it out this morning that I noticed the E.A. Berg stamp. Erik Anton Berg is well known as having made very fine woodworking chisels so it was surprising to see the name on a vice.
E A BERG HAND VICE
D.R.P.a.. Abbreviation (German). D.R.P.a. signifies Deutsches Reichpatent angemeldet ("German Reich patent applied for").look just above that item - the 155 "pliers wrench" thingie. wonder who DRPa is (page 16?)
Charles Parker #825. 5" jaws that opens to 8-1/2" and weights 130lbs.

The 825 was not mine. Pull off the swivel base and you will see the pin hole that captures your nut from sliding back. It will be a nominal diameter. Make a new pin and ***** punch the end so it fits tight, most vise makers bend the pin to keep the nut from having a sloppy back and forth movement which tightens up the backlash on your spindle. I have found that it is easier to take the vise apart so ya ain’t muscling the whole vise around while cleaning it up.I just acquired this 825 with a 288 1/2 swivel base. The Vise nut retention pin is missing and I can’t find the hole, any chance you could share a picture of yours? If not please disregard. Carrying this 130 pound monster outside to wire wheel then back into the shop to try and figure out the mechanical issues is getting rough.
The vise nut slides down the beam then catches on what appears to be flashing from the casting, I’d just like to make it work for me.
l




Thank you for getting back with me, I ended up snapping the bolt to remove the swivel base that ***** but not a huge deal. I’ll either sell the base or have a new bolt made. I just pushed the old rod up a bit, I will make another one at some point but for now I just want to use it.The 825 was not mine. Pull off the swivel base and you will see the pin hole that captures your nut from sliding back. It will be a nominal diameter. Make a new pin and ***** punch the end so it fits tight, most vise makers bend the pin to keep the nut from having a sloppy back and forth movement which tightens up the backlash on your spindle. I have found that it is easier to take the vise apart so ya ain’t muscling the whole vise around while cleaning it up.
I already posted about this in the Main vise thread but figured it may be useful here aswell....Kevin,
As promised, please find the vises I spoke with you about listed below:
Ware Patent Vise - Maker Unknown
**EDIT** I believe I found the original maker of this vise:
No markings of any kind:
Weight:
Note - Weight of the board is negligible
Jaw Width:
Max Opening:
Option 1- This is where the jaws won't open any more due to the distortion in the square tubing from the u-bend - it's right at 5 1/2" so I tend to think that was by design
Option 2-
+ 1/2" where the vise won't fully close yet:
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I'm making a stand for the 111 and would like to paint the stand the same color or as close as i can get itThe older Record dark blue was quite cool, I have a few planes in a bit darker color than your vise. But unfortunately no idea the color.
I already posted about this in the Main vise thread but figured it may be useful here aswell....
Found this Unmarked vise locally.
Would like to know if anyone has any more info on it.
So far I'm leaning towards it being a Utica vise. It seems most Utica vises are unmarked. (I've not come across any other than a picture in an advertisement which has branding on the actual vise, but we're only talking a handful of examples)
I posted in a FB group and someone has a similar but smaller version with a 4 hole base and is about half the weight.
From what I can tell there are atleast 3 different models of this vise with the square bar
-3" jaws with 4 hole base (approx 24lbs)
Jaws 3"
Height 7 1/4
Length 15 1/4
Weight 24.2
-3-1/2" Jaws with 4 hole base *can be seen in post #694 of the Vise Info thread*
Jaws 3"
Height Unknown
Length *approx 20"
Weight 32.5lbs
-3-3/4" Jaws with 3 hole base *seen in the pictures below*
Jaws are 3-3/4"
Height off table is 7-3/4"
Overall length is 20-3/4"
Weight is 47.6lbs
Smaller vise pic isn't mine


This is just what I was looking for!Well, we can definitively say it's a rare "J. L. Ware's patent" vise, which was more than likely manufactured by the Utica Drop Forge & Tool Co.
@MayerMR has examples of both the cast "Utica Drop Forge & Tool Co." and "Unmarked" Ware patent vises.
All of the magazine articles that I found for the Ware Patent vise, mfg. by the Utica Drop Forge & Tool Co. were between (1902-1904). The following article has the best information about your vise, including specifications and a model number.
Very nice vise, thanks for sharing.


I purchased a large Prentiss combination vise last week. I did not know there were ANY combination vises with jaws wider than 6".
This Prentiss 185 has 7" wide jaws. There is an example of this vise in the spreadsheet, but it shows the weight to be 240#. My vise is missing the swivel base, but is 200# without it. I doubt that a swivel base and hardware add up to 40#, but i guess it might.
So: ~200#, 7" wide jaws, 15.5" tall [no base], opens 12.5", overall length 32".
This vise has had a hard life, but is still surprisingly sound.
I have another of this type of Prentiss 'open side slide' vises, a #82, a much smaller combination vise with flat pipe jaws.
This Prentiss 185 has a maker's name on the inside of the 'wrought steel' c-channel slide. My Prentiss #82 does not.
and this #185 has an interesting mainscrew nut.. the dovetail is tapered in two dimensions, something I've not seen before on a mainscrew nut.
PierceA

Steel and wrought iron from that period may have had the manufacturers name marked by the rollers all the way down the beam.Very interesting vise! I couldn't find any earlier vise manufacturers using the "wrought steel channel" as the slide.
Any comparisons between the Lewis Tool Co. and the Prentiss Tool Co. vises are completely valid, since the founders of the Prentiss Vise Co. were part owners. The very talented Mortimer G. Lewis was the brother-in-law of John E. Milford and Edwin H. Milford. So, that connection always existed.
Your Prentiss "Blake" no. 185 is the largest jaw combination vise I could find and was first offered in the earliest of 1900, as seen in the following documents.
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The fact that the Prentiss Vise Co. imported the "wrought steel channel" from Dorman Long is very interesting. I wonder if they marked the long raw, uncut channel once and you got real lucky to have gotten that piece or they were marked on all of the channels?
Either way, it adds a little a little more historical value to your vise.
While the "Blake" combination vises were offered well into the 1940's, they had a few design changes over that period. In the 1910 Prentiss catalog, they offered the "Blake" vises with the new Patented removeable jaws, which your vise does not have. Knowing this, I think it's safe to say that the circa for your vise is (1900-1910).
Really good stuff, thanks for sharing!
Terminology concerning steel and iron, especially older terminology, is a bit weird and incongruous.I agree Kevin. As well as have squared edges on the channel. It appears to have a formed or rounded edge in the catalog sketches.
Question: Wrought Steel vs Forged Steel: What is the difference? Forged to me means very heavy hammer-machines to shape the steel. What and how does that differ from 'wrought' steel?
The blacksmith post vises are 'wrought iron'. And they are amazingly tough.. I watched a guy take a 12# sledge and a full overhead swing with the sledge hammer and hit the jaw tops on a blacksmith post vise. And the sledge hammer just bounced off.
I'm wondering if someone can post a link to some site like: 'Metallurgy for Dummies'.com. Which is what I 'd need to start with !
Pierce..
Hi just picked up a 183 like yours Did you remove the lead screw from the slide assembly for the restoration? if so how? my lead screw retainer is missing and I can't see how it would work. Any help on what the retainer looks like or a picture would be appreciated Thanks Pete in Medway MEPrentiss 183 with 6" jaws that open to 6", Weights 185lbs and has the side open channel. God awful blue paint job on this one.