ez-duzit
Well-known member
For $400 I couldn't pass it up.
Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
- Start date
drivesitfar
Well-known member
EZ: great looking mortising machine and hope to see pictures of yours soon maybe with a few cuts in some wood too.
ALL: i think this is going to be maybe my most read and might be my favorite thread in 2017. That said I want to wish all you Woodworkers, wood butcherers and wood want to bees to have a MERRY CHRISTMAS and let's make some chips and shavings in 2017.
cheers (ice tea for this old guy)
ALL: i think this is going to be maybe my most read and might be my favorite thread in 2017. That said I want to wish all you Woodworkers, wood butcherers and wood want to bees to have a MERRY CHRISTMAS and let's make some chips and shavings in 2017.
cheers (ice tea for this old guy)
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Drives--Merry Christmas to you and thanks for getting the ball rolling here.
No need to wind up the shop with a big project with Christmas just around the corner. Today's post is about light projects. Here is what I found.
There is a "mystery box" along with some Japanese chisels wrapped in a shoprag. Let's start with the chisels. I need to get them ready for a new home. When I got them, the largest was missing a hoop. I replaced that during the summer. Today's task is to fix the chip on the small chisel. It is a nice size--just slightly larger than 3/16". It is missing a corner.
Ouch! Let's go over to the sharpening station. I have a new piece of 220 AO paper for it.
Over the years I have developed a good feel for this kind of work so I do it freehand. I held it on the bevel and looked at it after each stroke so I could adjust on the next. Taking out the chip took exactly 26 strokes on the paper.
Then it was time for polish. Here is the well worn 400 grit paper. It is now about like 800 paper.
Here is the bevel before polishing.
And here is the back after polishing. There is a little swarf still on it.
The proof, however, is in the pudding. Here is a nice little curl.
So that is my take on the Japanese chisel hoopla. I have read postings by many well intentioned craftsmen who wax poetic about samurai swords and mystic techniques of sharpness. They swear by their Japanese Waterstones. Yeah, I tried those too. But they took too long. Let's face it--steel is steel. I hollow grind my Japanese chisels and sharpen them using aluminum oxide sandpaper. They work just fine. End of sermon.
Having finished with the rehab, I carefully wrapped the set and placed them back in their Costco sandwich box. Time for another project.
No need to wind up the shop with a big project with Christmas just around the corner. Today's post is about light projects. Here is what I found.
There is a "mystery box" along with some Japanese chisels wrapped in a shoprag. Let's start with the chisels. I need to get them ready for a new home. When I got them, the largest was missing a hoop. I replaced that during the summer. Today's task is to fix the chip on the small chisel. It is a nice size--just slightly larger than 3/16". It is missing a corner.
Ouch! Let's go over to the sharpening station. I have a new piece of 220 AO paper for it.
Over the years I have developed a good feel for this kind of work so I do it freehand. I held it on the bevel and looked at it after each stroke so I could adjust on the next. Taking out the chip took exactly 26 strokes on the paper.
Then it was time for polish. Here is the well worn 400 grit paper. It is now about like 800 paper.
Here is the bevel before polishing.
And here is the back after polishing. There is a little swarf still on it.
The proof, however, is in the pudding. Here is a nice little curl.
So that is my take on the Japanese chisel hoopla. I have read postings by many well intentioned craftsmen who wax poetic about samurai swords and mystic techniques of sharpness. They swear by their Japanese Waterstones. Yeah, I tried those too. But they took too long. Let's face it--steel is steel. I hollow grind my Japanese chisels and sharpen them using aluminum oxide sandpaper. They work just fine. End of sermon.
Having finished with the rehab, I carefully wrapped the set and placed them back in their Costco sandwich box. Time for another project.
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OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Mystery box revealed
This mystery box has been sitting under my workbench for a few years. So long, in fact, that I forgot what it held. So this is kinda like opening a Christmas gift.
WooHoo! It is a full chisel roll.
In fact, it is a full set of ten Marples Blue chisels. The ones made in England!
Before we go any further, I need to made a jobsite holder. A scrap of cherry and a handscrew will do nicely.
And here it is in action.
Yes my little Grasshopper. This is how you use a chisel roll. Please do not stab your chisels into the roll. That is unpleasant. The roll pockets are made for HANDLES. They keep the chisels from FALLING OUT. Point first will RIP THE POCKETS.
These chisels have suffered a bit during their shop journey.
And this one has edge issues in addition to the rust. The cutting edge should not be wavy.
Here is a better shot. Look at the right hand side. Ouch!
But first, let's work on that rust. Time to break out the deburring wheel.
Well that polished out pretty well.
About half of them had rust spots and I polished them out. The little 1/16" chisel was a mess. I think these were a problem to manufacture. When I picked this up at Highland Hardware, I had to go through six or seven on the shelf before I found one that did not have edge crumble. This one was perfect then but now it has user abuse.
I worked that bevel just like the Japanese chisel. Heck, it was only 1/16". Then I polished it and replaced it in the roll.
So now this set is looking like new. I dusted the toolbox with my bench brush, replaced the roll, and stored them INSIDE.
It is nice to have slow days in the shop. They are good days for cleaning up and for working on tools. What did you do in YOUR shop today?
This mystery box has been sitting under my workbench for a few years. So long, in fact, that I forgot what it held. So this is kinda like opening a Christmas gift.
WooHoo! It is a full chisel roll.
In fact, it is a full set of ten Marples Blue chisels. The ones made in England!
Before we go any further, I need to made a jobsite holder. A scrap of cherry and a handscrew will do nicely.
And here it is in action.
Yes my little Grasshopper. This is how you use a chisel roll. Please do not stab your chisels into the roll. That is unpleasant. The roll pockets are made for HANDLES. They keep the chisels from FALLING OUT. Point first will RIP THE POCKETS.
These chisels have suffered a bit during their shop journey.
And this one has edge issues in addition to the rust. The cutting edge should not be wavy.
Here is a better shot. Look at the right hand side. Ouch!
But first, let's work on that rust. Time to break out the deburring wheel.
Well that polished out pretty well.
About half of them had rust spots and I polished them out. The little 1/16" chisel was a mess. I think these were a problem to manufacture. When I picked this up at Highland Hardware, I had to go through six or seven on the shelf before I found one that did not have edge crumble. This one was perfect then but now it has user abuse.
I worked that bevel just like the Japanese chisel. Heck, it was only 1/16". Then I polished it and replaced it in the roll.
So now this set is looking like new. I dusted the toolbox with my bench brush, replaced the roll, and stored them INSIDE.
It is nice to have slow days in the shop. They are good days for cleaning up and for working on tools. What did you do in YOUR shop today?
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Zach--Great mallet! I am sure that FIL will love his new persuader.
kwoswalt99
Well-known member
The proof of the pudding is in the end grain cutting.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
I really like the Japanese chisels and use their waterstones for sharpening chisels and plane blades. Might as well point out that I also could not live without their saws.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Here it is after delivering to my shop; shown in as-found condition, partially disassembled for transport, with the loose components strewn across one of my table saws. The main piece missing is the tilting table, which I will order from Powermatic.
The most interesting aspect of this machine is that, instead of moving a small work-holding table, the head moves on massive dovetail ways.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
EZ--No dis intended on the Waterstones. They are not bad--many use them and like them. I just like sandpaper. As for the mortise, it is a massive machine. Keep us updated on your project. We want to see it throw chips. And hey, I had that same Delta scroll saw. Do you use yours much?
NedNorton
Well-known member
drives,
I've been reading through and am about half way. Great thread! It is already a terrific resource.
One thing...
I'm hurt.
To be honest I'm impressed if folks just look at a few of the pictures. Ha! 
Anyway... Hope you and your's have a wonderful holiday. Bring on 2017!
Cheers,
Chris
I've been reading through and am about half way. Great thread! It is already a terrific resource.
One thing...
I'm hurt.
To be honest I'm impressed if folks just look at a few of the pictures. Ha! Anyway... Hope you and your's have a wonderful holiday. Bring on 2017!
Cheers,
Chris
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
It will likely be months before the table for the mortiser arrives. I'm in no particular hurry--done without one for 73 years.
The scroll saw doesn't get that much use; mostly for model building. But it is a nice machine, with digital speed readout, and it regularly saves me from changing blades on the bandsaw. Bought it for $350 IIRC.
The scroll saw doesn't get that much use; mostly for model building. But it is a nice machine, with digital speed readout, and it regularly saves me from changing blades on the bandsaw. Bought it for $350 IIRC.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
It will likely be months before the table for the mortiser arrives. I'm in no particular hurry--done without one for 73 years.
The scroll saw doesn't get that much use; mostly for model building. But it is a nice machine, with digital speed readout, and it regularly saves me from changing blades on the bandsaw. Bought it for $350 IIRC.
Well, since I have been waiting for 67 years to see one in action, a few months is not so long.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Cordless drills
Cordless drills have been around a long time. WW of yore used arm power. Today's topic is all about human powered cordless drills--braces to be exact.
I grabbed some tools from the boneyard and from the user bench. Here is a class photo.
Here is a picture I snagged that describes brace parts.
Braces were common and have been made by the millions. They are a common swap meet/flea market find. Every ww should have a few. The most common size is 8 inch, but there are others. The 8 inch refers to the circumference of the sweep. Measure from the center of the bit to the sweep handle and multiply by 2. Or, cheat and look on the frame near the head where the number is usually stamped.
With braces, longer sweep gives you more torque. Shorter sweeps have less torque but tend to be faster because the round trip is shorter. Here are the common sizes--from right to left--6, 8 , 10, and 12.
Look closely and you will see that my 6 inch brace is loaded with a countersink. I like to have one at my fingertips--ready to go. I can drop a countersink in less than a minute and keep going. The 8 inch is loaded with a flathead screwdriver bit. Talk about torque! This thing will twist the head off any screw. Since braces are so common and so inexpensive, it makes sense to have several around and dedicate some of them to special duty.
Next up is the Archimedean screw driver. These are less common than braces. Just think of them as an early version of the Yankee screwdriver.
Here is a view of it closed. On top is an adjustable dowel tenon maker along with a brace bit extender for those loooong holes.
It has eight common tenon sizes. Just dial and go.
Sometimes you need a hole in an awkward area. Here is where the right angle brace and the right angle brace attachment come in handy.
These were commonly used by plumbers for drilling through joists. You know how that goes. Framing carpenters build a strong frame for the house so the plumbers and electricians can undermine it with holes.
Here is a collection of screwdriver bits. Some of these were specifically made for braces and some of them were made for special screwdriver handles. No problem as most of them will fit in most chucks. I even cut up a set of inexpensive screwdrivers and made a set.
Drilling holes is an essential task for most ww projects. Braces drill holes and drive screws. Every ww should have a collection of user braces. Go find some today.
Cordless drills have been around a long time. WW of yore used arm power. Today's topic is all about human powered cordless drills--braces to be exact.
I grabbed some tools from the boneyard and from the user bench. Here is a class photo.
Here is a picture I snagged that describes brace parts.
Braces were common and have been made by the millions. They are a common swap meet/flea market find. Every ww should have a few. The most common size is 8 inch, but there are others. The 8 inch refers to the circumference of the sweep. Measure from the center of the bit to the sweep handle and multiply by 2. Or, cheat and look on the frame near the head where the number is usually stamped.
With braces, longer sweep gives you more torque. Shorter sweeps have less torque but tend to be faster because the round trip is shorter. Here are the common sizes--from right to left--6, 8 , 10, and 12.
Look closely and you will see that my 6 inch brace is loaded with a countersink. I like to have one at my fingertips--ready to go. I can drop a countersink in less than a minute and keep going. The 8 inch is loaded with a flathead screwdriver bit. Talk about torque! This thing will twist the head off any screw. Since braces are so common and so inexpensive, it makes sense to have several around and dedicate some of them to special duty.
Next up is the Archimedean screw driver. These are less common than braces. Just think of them as an early version of the Yankee screwdriver.
Here is a view of it closed. On top is an adjustable dowel tenon maker along with a brace bit extender for those loooong holes.
It has eight common tenon sizes. Just dial and go.
Sometimes you need a hole in an awkward area. Here is where the right angle brace and the right angle brace attachment come in handy.
These were commonly used by plumbers for drilling through joists. You know how that goes. Framing carpenters build a strong frame for the house so the plumbers and electricians can undermine it with holes.
Here is a collection of screwdriver bits. Some of these were specifically made for braces and some of them were made for special screwdriver handles. No problem as most of them will fit in most chucks. I even cut up a set of inexpensive screwdrivers and made a set.
Drilling holes is an essential task for most ww projects. Braces drill holes and drive screws. Every ww should have a collection of user braces. Go find some today.
Toolfool
Well-known member
Jim, I'm starting to think you should be using my screen name.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Well, there is a wee bit o iron in the garage. It probably messes with compass needles in the vicinity.
MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL
Toolfool
Well-known member
Merry Christmas.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Merry Christmas to all and a special thanks to Jim for starting this thread and to Drives for promoting it. Well done gentlemen.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jim: i'm not exactly sure how many tools you own, but loving the tutorials and seeing all the old tools you've showed so far. i'm looking forward to many shavings in 2017 and thanks again for hosting this thread.
BJ: your router table is coming along nicely and for any of you that haven't seen BJ's garage thread you might want to check it out cause he's building that very cool router table currently.
ALL: thanks for the KUDOS and always nice to hear good words. i want to wish all that survived another year above dirt in 2016 to do exactly the same in 2017 and maybe we'll have a few more skills and learn a few things. here's to hoping you all have a very happy holiday season.
BJ: your router table is coming along nicely and for any of you that haven't seen BJ's garage thread you might want to check it out cause he's building that very cool router table currently.
ALL: thanks for the KUDOS and always nice to hear good words. i want to wish all that survived another year above dirt in 2016 to do exactly the same in 2017 and maybe we'll have a few more skills and learn a few things. here's to hoping you all have a very happy holiday season.
I also have a right angle brace in my tool collection. Inherited from my grandfather so it holds a special place in my tool collection. And it has a roll-up cloth (canvas?) bit holder with most of the bits still in it. I've even had to use it a few times in tight spots.Sometimes you need a hole in an awkward area. Here is where the right angle brace and the right angle brace attachment come in handy.
Merry Christmas to all.
-Rick
mtnwkr
Well-known member
If we could add a woodworking forum to this site, it would be the only place I'd need to go anymore..
Zeke
Well-known member
I display the braces and extensions but I use them as well.
The extensions are leaning against the wall at the left. I think I can go 6 feet.
The extensions are leaning against the wall at the left. I think I can go 6 feet.
mtnwkr
Well-known member
My first "real" wood working project, The Drunken Cutting Board.. I've only made work benches, tool stands and rough carpentry stuff before. I restored some old 'arn WW tools recently and wanted to see what I could do with them.
Cherry and Walnut with Maple strips, all milled from rough stock.
Before the oil finish..
After the mineral oil.
Cherry and Walnut with Maple strips, all milled from rough stock.
Before the oil finish..
After the mineral oil.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
mw--pretty cool.
MW I love the cutting board. I'm actually making two myself. One for my sister in law:
This one is made of maple, mahogany, pine, and oak.
The other for my dad, who is a chef:
My dad's is made of Oak and Alder.
Jim made a comment about signing your work, and I do sort of. I burn my cattle brand in most of my works, it can be seen in the board for my dad.
Zach
This one is made of maple, mahogany, pine, and oak.
The other for my dad, who is a chef:
My dad's is made of Oak and Alder.
Jim made a comment about signing your work, and I do sort of. I burn my cattle brand in most of my works, it can be seen in the board for my dad.
Zach
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mtnwkr
Well-known member
Really nice! I like seeing other peoples work, it inspires me to try new things.
I did read that about signing your work. I wanted to, but I knew a pen or marker would smear with the oil. I tried a pencil, but it too smeared right off when I started applying the oil. I'd like to make or buy a brand for stuff I make.
I did read that about signing your work. I wanted to, but I knew a pen or marker would smear with the oil. I tried a pencil, but it too smeared right off when I started applying the oil. I'd like to make or buy a brand for stuff I make.
Autonomous
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2015
- Messages
- 66
The ADD and OCD mixed with some FSD and a weekend hunting trip has made me late on my dad's Christmas present. It's a rifle case, or will be in a couple of weekends.
It's sanded ply and white oak trim for sturdiness.
It seems 12 clamps aren't nearly enough, that'll be cured by next weekend.
The clasps and piano hinge are brass. I'll finish it with Thompson's Water Seal and mineral oil/paraffin wax paste I made in the kitchen.
Ah well, I need some sleep so I can drive in the morning. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all.
It's sanded ply and white oak trim for sturdiness.
It seems 12 clamps aren't nearly enough, that'll be cured by next weekend.
The clasps and piano hinge are brass. I'll finish it with Thompson's Water Seal and mineral oil/paraffin wax paste I made in the kitchen.
Ah well, I need some sleep so I can drive in the morning. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all.
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OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Mtn--I had to rub the sleep out of my eyes to make sure I was seeing correctly. Your curvy cutting board is clever. We all know how difficult those curves can be.
Zach--Good work on the personalization. I'll bet it makes 'em smile whenever they see it.
Auto--Good start on the case. Ah, yes. A ww cannot have too many clamps.
My shop is pretty much shut down now as we await the arrival of family. I set up the traditional grazing table for the young ones.
We'll see how much damage they can do in just three days. I hope they bypass the Pop tarts and leave them for me.
Zach--Good work on the personalization. I'll bet it makes 'em smile whenever they see it.
Auto--Good start on the case. Ah, yes. A ww cannot have too many clamps.
My shop is pretty much shut down now as we await the arrival of family. I set up the traditional grazing table for the young ones.
We'll see how much damage they can do in just three days. I hope they bypass the Pop tarts and leave them for me.
mtnwkr
Well-known member
Thanks Jim. I appreciate the comments. I followed this tutorial over at lumberjocks for anyone interested in the steps.
http://lumberjocks.com/poroskywood/blog/10833
cagullett1
Well-known member
New to woodworking, I mistakenly told my wife I'd build cutting boards for family. After buying plenty of rough 8/4 lumber, a new planer, a lot of cussing late at night. I've got 1 done lol. Won't be seeing the rest of the family until next weekend, so I've got time. Most of the others are ready for glue up, but this was no easy task without a joiner or hand planes. I'd never owned a planet, so it took some trial and error using shims on a piece of mdf to get the boards perfectly flat and square. Here's a pic of post glue up, and then the finished product.
If anyone has any tips to squaring and flattening boards without hand planes and a electric joiner (or other tips to building cutting boards), all advice would be appreciated.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If anyone has any tips to squaring and flattening boards without hand planes and a electric joiner (or other tips to building cutting boards), all advice would be appreciated.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
You don't need a jointer. I'm a professional woodworker and don't have one. But you won't go far with no hand planes. Though you can do a lot of work on a table saw with a sled, for small projects like that.
cagullett1
Well-known member
So if I'm using a sled/shims on my planer to get a flat surface, would you say using a ripping sled on my table saw would be more effective? This is under the assumption that it's pretty close to square already.
Hand plane size suggestions to start with? There's a local guy (McKinney tx) that sells a lot of refurbished Stanley's on the Dallas Craigslist. He seems legit, but the hand plane world is intimidating if you aren't familiar. I'm assuming you use a jointer hand plane instead of a power jointer?
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superautobacs
Well-known member
This is a great thread, and it inspires me to start learning more about woodworking and starting some projects for 2017. I really like the tutorials, tool tips, pictorial demonstrations, and project photos. 
ez-duzit
Well-known member
I would not touch a refurbished plane. Save your money and find something decent. A low-angle block plane, a shoulder plane, perhaps a jack plane.
Try the sled.
Try the sled.
cagullett1
Well-known member
When I say refurbished, I mean more along the lines of restored.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Cag--Welcome aboard and nice job on the cutting board. If you can get a restored Stanley #5 for about $50-75, it would be a good place to start. Once you learn and master the #5 you can let your projects dictate as you move on to different sizes.
Craptain
Well-known member
A properly restored plane should perform every bit as well as a new one which will still need a fair bit of tuning in any case.
I have never bought new, but that is as much a budget issue as preference. I have also never bought restored either for the same reason. And I am perfectly able to restore most planes myself and get enjoyment from that as well.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
I have never bought new, but that is as much a budget issue as preference. I have also never bought restored either for the same reason. And I am perfectly able to restore most planes myself and get enjoyment from that as well.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
My visitors have left and there are three bananas on the goodie table. We are going up to 79 today so the shop will be nice. Time for a new project.