CRSINMICH
Well-known member
Tom99: Geeze, you were really holding back on the vise thread. Very very nice! Do you have any pictures of your projects?
Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
- Start date
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
EZ: It was also in my mind that if they looked a little cleaner and newer they might not get thrown away in coming years when they're passed on to someone else. I'll probably take your approach with the 8 inch hand screw. It's chewed up but will still clamp tightly. I have a 6 x 48 Rockwell belt sander that I re-did. That was fun and a different kind of project for me.
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
CR--pretty sure the new handscrews come finished in that. It's cheap and dries very fast.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Rrich1--Great job on your remodel. Nice room.
CRS--I think you did a good job with your woodscrews. Sometimes they need a little touch up.
Here is one that my dad purchased in the 1950s. It still looks new.
And here is one that I purchased in the late 1960s. No name but it has a great patina.
And here is a basket case I found recently. It looks like it came out of a factory. I think it was regularly coated with linseed oil and then it went through a small fire.
I cleaned gunk and char off with a Scotchbrite pad. It was just too nasty to use and I wanted to clean it without destroying the patina.
After the pad, I wiped it good with turpentine and then waxed it after a few days. It is still pretty ugly but that's OK because it gets the ugly jobs.
I don't like too much finish on woodscrews but if they need it, I will rub them down lightly with boiled linseed oil and turpentine (20-80 mix). Too much BLO and they will darken like the one above.
CRS--I think you did a good job with your woodscrews. Sometimes they need a little touch up.
Here is one that my dad purchased in the 1950s. It still looks new.
And here is one that I purchased in the late 1960s. No name but it has a great patina.
And here is a basket case I found recently. It looks like it came out of a factory. I think it was regularly coated with linseed oil and then it went through a small fire.
I cleaned gunk and char off with a Scotchbrite pad. It was just too nasty to use and I wanted to clean it without destroying the patina.
After the pad, I wiped it good with turpentine and then waxed it after a few days. It is still pretty ugly but that's OK because it gets the ugly jobs.
I don't like too much finish on woodscrews but if they need it, I will rub them down lightly with boiled linseed oil and turpentine (20-80 mix). Too much BLO and they will darken like the one above.
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
MORE ABOUT HAND SCREWS
This is from a 1950 Hargrave catalog. Notice that the jaws are made from seasoned maple and they are oiled. A 1974 catalog has the same information. The 712 like the one I just refinished sold for $27 a dozen. That's $2.25 each. I was robbed!Attachments
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jim: i'm assuming your mix is 20% BLO and 80% Turpentine? or do i have that backwards? also excuse my ignorance cause i'm not great at this stuff yet and can you substitute mineral spirits for turpentine or any other chemicals like a Japan dryer i hear so much about?
ALL: i might have found a solution for my DAD's Shopsmith i don't have room for. since my dad doesn't drive anymore (he's 84 and not very mobile these days and GOD ONLY KNOWS which wires are working upstairs) so he should probably sell his old Lincoln Towncare and i'll make a woodshop out of his 12 x 40 garage that is perfectly dry and just needs more power.
STAY TUNED cause i have my MOM on board with the idea. when my Dad bought the Shopsmith new about 20 or 30 years ago i'm sure he wanted to do more than the one or two projects on it so maybe i'll get him turning some wood for a bowl, table leg or just a new file handle. not only would it give me room for my woodworking tools, but i'd get to spend time with my parents more often.
hope you are all having a great weekend.
ALL: i might have found a solution for my DAD's Shopsmith i don't have room for. since my dad doesn't drive anymore (he's 84 and not very mobile these days and GOD ONLY KNOWS which wires are working upstairs) so he should probably sell his old Lincoln Towncare and i'll make a woodshop out of his 12 x 40 garage that is perfectly dry and just needs more power.
STAY TUNED cause i have my MOM on board with the idea. when my Dad bought the Shopsmith new about 20 or 30 years ago i'm sure he wanted to do more than the one or two projects on it so maybe i'll get him turning some wood for a bowl, table leg or just a new file handle. not only would it give me room for my woodworking tools, but i'd get to spend time with my parents more often.
hope you are all having a great weekend.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Drives--20% boiled linseed oil and 80% turpentine. Raw linseed oil does not dry. I have used it (raw) before on tool handles. It works OK, but stays oily for a long time. BLO has japan driers and will get gummy if you put on too much. I wipe down at 30 minutes, 2 hours, and next day. Depending on weather and temps.
I have used mineral spirits to clean wooden tools. It is a solvent and strips everything and leaves the wood dry to the touch. Turpentine leaves a slight residue and maintains the patina of the surface. It also smells good. Here is a tip. Wipe something down with turpentine an hour or so before you have the grandchildren over for a shop tour. They will really like the faint aroma.
Good luck with your shop plan. I'll bet dad will enjoy his shoptime with son.
I have used mineral spirits to clean wooden tools. It is a solvent and strips everything and leaves the wood dry to the touch. Turpentine leaves a slight residue and maintains the patina of the surface. It also smells good. Here is a tip. Wipe something down with turpentine an hour or so before you have the grandchildren over for a shop tour. They will really like the faint aroma.
Good luck with your shop plan. I'll bet dad will enjoy his shoptime with son.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Tom: great looking shop and i bet even if it's not always that clean it's a great layout and some great tools too. what do you build or make or do you you like restorations?
Rich: nice looking vanity and wondering why such a dark stain if you went to the expense of making it out of CHERRY? also any during pictures and tips on how to make a VANITY? are those foot soak trays on the bottom shelf or do tell if you don't mind? looks like your new design was made to accommodate them and great spot for the TP too? nice work
CRS: i personally like the cleaned up clamp cause i bet after you cleaned up the screw it actually works like it was meant too. the patina is fine too on the cleaned up one, but did you add anything to the BLO to keep it from being sticky or just a very light coat that maybe you worked in with the steel wool? nice job
Rich: nice looking vanity and wondering why such a dark stain if you went to the expense of making it out of CHERRY? also any during pictures and tips on how to make a VANITY? are those foot soak trays on the bottom shelf or do tell if you don't mind? looks like your new design was made to accommodate them and great spot for the TP too? nice work
CRS: i personally like the cleaned up clamp cause i bet after you cleaned up the screw it actually works like it was meant too. the patina is fine too on the cleaned up one, but did you add anything to the BLO to keep it from being sticky or just a very light coat that maybe you worked in with the steel wool? nice job
Thanks. I've been lazy lately with my projects. I've got a bed project about half done that I can't get motivated to finish. That's part of it sitting on my bench.
But here's a drafting table I made a couple years ago that I really like. Cherry, sort of a mission / arts and crafts design. The green surface is vinyl sheet made for drafting boards.
drafting table 007 by Thomas Rausenberg, on Flickr
drafting table 004 by Thomas Rausenberg, on Flickr
drafting table 012 by Thomas Rausenberg, on FlickrCRSINMICH
Well-known member
Drives: Yeah, the metal screws are slick and smooth. I used 0000 steel wool dipped in BLO to gently scrub the grime off the wooden parts. I wiped and dried each side with a shop towel as I finished working on it then went over the whole thing with a dry towel once again before I set it to dry.
Jim: After you posted about your father's hand screw I remembered that I gave one to my father in the early 60's so I dug it out. It wasn't quite as clean as the one your father had but it was clean. I gave it a light wiping with your BLO/Turp mixture and it revealed a faded Cincinnati Tool stamp.
Tom: That drafting table is a lovely piece of furniture and it's useful. Kudos! Now, get at that bed!
Jim: After you posted about your father's hand screw I remembered that I gave one to my father in the early 60's so I dug it out. It wasn't quite as clean as the one your father had but it was clean. I gave it a light wiping with your BLO/Turp mixture and it revealed a faded Cincinnati Tool stamp.
Tom: That drafting table is a lovely piece of furniture and it's useful. Kudos! Now, get at that bed!
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OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Tom--Nice table. One of the great things about being a ww is being able to make custom furniture for yourself. It is even better if your skill level is high like yours.
CRS--I am sure your clamp appreciated the TLC. Legacy tools are nice to have around the shop.
CRS--I am sure your clamp appreciated the TLC. Legacy tools are nice to have around the shop.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Parker vise collar
I acquired this vise recently at a great price because it was incomplete and looked different. It looked very Parker like to me so I took a chance. Here is what I received.
As you can see, it is missing its collar. And the collar attachment is unconventional. Turns out that this is a VERY early Parker vise. Patent dates are stamped all over the jaws. This is a great vise in outstanding condition for its age. Previous owner used a bolt as a makeshift collar. I have been pondering it for awhile and decided that today was the day.
Pollen season has kicked my behind hard and the meds just cloud my brain, or what is left of it. All I want to do is watch tv and nap. But I guess the coffee had extra caffeine today because I ran out into the shop like my pants were on fire. I took a sheet of aluminum foil with me.
I used it to make a mould of the needed collar.
And here it is.
My plan is to make a wooden collar. It should work OK because the collar is needed only to keep the leadscrew from unwinding. It does not get much pressure. Since my brain was still foggy, I elected to mould the needed part rather than try to visualize a 3-D REVERSE image. Once I had my mould, I went to work on a prototype. I used a piece of construction lumber. Here is the trial fit.
Then all I had to do was recreate it in walnut.
The piece of walnut fit like a glove and worked well. So well, in fact, that it got stuck in place.
Next I cut it off and began finish shaping. Here is where the story gets interesting. I was able to use my old Parker carriagemakers vise to hold the part for shaping. So it was one Parker helping out his ole Parker buddy.
After some shaping and sandpaper.
Then I got hungry for lunch. I think I will paint it black so it will match the vise. More later.
I acquired this vise recently at a great price because it was incomplete and looked different. It looked very Parker like to me so I took a chance. Here is what I received.
As you can see, it is missing its collar. And the collar attachment is unconventional. Turns out that this is a VERY early Parker vise. Patent dates are stamped all over the jaws. This is a great vise in outstanding condition for its age. Previous owner used a bolt as a makeshift collar. I have been pondering it for awhile and decided that today was the day.
Pollen season has kicked my behind hard and the meds just cloud my brain, or what is left of it. All I want to do is watch tv and nap. But I guess the coffee had extra caffeine today because I ran out into the shop like my pants were on fire. I took a sheet of aluminum foil with me.
I used it to make a mould of the needed collar.
And here it is.
My plan is to make a wooden collar. It should work OK because the collar is needed only to keep the leadscrew from unwinding. It does not get much pressure. Since my brain was still foggy, I elected to mould the needed part rather than try to visualize a 3-D REVERSE image. Once I had my mould, I went to work on a prototype. I used a piece of construction lumber. Here is the trial fit.
Then all I had to do was recreate it in walnut.
The piece of walnut fit like a glove and worked well. So well, in fact, that it got stuck in place.
Next I cut it off and began finish shaping. Here is where the story gets interesting. I was able to use my old Parker carriagemakers vise to hold the part for shaping. So it was one Parker helping out his ole Parker buddy.
After some shaping and sandpaper.
Then I got hungry for lunch. I think I will paint it black so it will match the vise. More later.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jim: i'm not really sure what to think about putting on a piece of wood to fix a 150 year old vise. since it's a Parker and not one of my favorites (they are great vises BTW) it's not like you are making something for one of my Rock Islands or Reeds.
I'm watching closely to see if your fix works and see how long it holds up. at worst cast scenario you can take your wood piece to a college or trade school and maybe have a bronze or cast iron piece using it as the mold.
i love your almost kid like ENTHUSIASM.
I'm watching closely to see if your fix works and see how long it holds up. at worst cast scenario you can take your wood piece to a college or trade school and maybe have a bronze or cast iron piece using it as the mold.
i love your almost kid like ENTHUSIASM.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Drives--As one who appreciates vises, I understand how this unconventional repair makes your head explode. But it really does work and sure beats the BOLT that came with the vise. Let's just say that it is a work in progress.
Here is where it stands tonight.
Not too bad from a distance.
BUT it does look a little shifty up close.
If it holds up for a few months, maybe I will shape it a little better on the outside to make it "pretty". Otherwise, it is time for this little vise to go to work. With 3 1/4" jaws it should be handy for small stuff.
Here is where it stands tonight.
Not too bad from a distance.
BUT it does look a little shifty up close.
If it holds up for a few months, maybe I will shape it a little better on the outside to make it "pretty". Otherwise, it is time for this little vise to go to work. With 3 1/4" jaws it should be handy for small stuff.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Tom--nice little drafting table.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Rainy day project
Some projects start with figured hardwoods and sometimes they start with construction lumber.
The Stanley Bedrock #605C is pulling nice shavings today. It is fun to use.
Now I have a chance to use my dovetail layout marker. One of my ww buddies made me a set of them years ago.
Just lay it on the corner and mark away. In this case, I just need a little decoration.
Next is the #65 chamfer plane. This one has a snazzy brass blade holder.
It is making nice chamfers on the 2x4.
Now I have some decoration on the bottom edge. I need to add some buttons to cover up the screw holes. They go in place easily with my little persuader.
Almost done. Stay tuned.
Some projects start with figured hardwoods and sometimes they start with construction lumber.
The Stanley Bedrock #605C is pulling nice shavings today. It is fun to use.
Now I have a chance to use my dovetail layout marker. One of my ww buddies made me a set of them years ago.
Just lay it on the corner and mark away. In this case, I just need a little decoration.
Next is the #65 chamfer plane. This one has a snazzy brass blade holder.
It is making nice chamfers on the 2x4.
Now I have some decoration on the bottom edge. I need to add some buttons to cover up the screw holes. They go in place easily with my little persuader.
Almost done. Stay tuned.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Rainy day project continued
Today's project was a hatrack. I gave my daughter the halltree because it took up too much space. But then I had nowhere to put my hats. That is pretty important to me because my boonie caps are supposed to prevent future skin cancers. Here is what I finally came up with.
And here it is in place.
I found an empty spot on the side of my Lonnie Byrd Kentucky cabinet. The hat rack hooks onto the top moulding. It holds my caps but the best part is that the Queen likes it.
Construction lumber, sheetrock nails, buttons, and shaker style pegs.
Today's project was a hatrack. I gave my daughter the halltree because it took up too much space. But then I had nowhere to put my hats. That is pretty important to me because my boonie caps are supposed to prevent future skin cancers. Here is what I finally came up with.
And here it is in place.
I found an empty spot on the side of my Lonnie Byrd Kentucky cabinet. The hat rack hooks onto the top moulding. It holds my caps but the best part is that the Queen likes it.
Construction lumber, sheetrock nails, buttons, and shaker style pegs.
Autonomous
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2015
- Messages
- 66
Jim thanks for the hat rack project idea. It's now on my list, but my space is different so shapes will change. I have too many hats and too little holders.
If there is ever a jig worth buying it's a Micro Jig Gripper. My parents got me a couple as a late birthday gift and they arrived today. I forgot how much I really like this jig. Makes cutting smooth and easy. I would recommend this jig to anyone, and is worth ever penny. This set cost around $120 with shipping. There are plenty of additions that can be bought but the basics are the plenty.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Nice finger savers you have there. When I worked at Rockler I noticed that these things were very popular.
A pair of the GRR-Rippers is almost indispensable. Use with a table saw, router, jointer....
I bought a pair years ago when the price wasn't quite so crazy.
The gravity heel kit is a nice addition.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7KTBZC/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I bought a pair years ago when the price wasn't quite so crazy.
The gravity heel kit is a nice addition.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7KTBZC/?tag=atomicindus08-20
tom99: thanks! Wife put some turquoise accents in it to make it pop. I'd put up more pics of the tiles shower but that is for another thread.
Jimreed2160: thank you. We like it a lot.
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Jimreed2160: thank you. We like it a lot.
Thanks. The stain looks darker in the pic. I made it to where you can still see the grain pattern through it (see last attached pic). I wanted the hardness of cherry and my store has 4/4 cherry at a good price and I like the grain of cherry a lot. The green and blue things are steps for the kids (4 and 2). Supposedly they are supposed to go back when they are done with them...I did design the vanity to fit them in there. Here are a few pics of it while it was on progress. Still a movie with much to learn. I'm sure there are better ways that I could have built it but it is solid and suits our needs.
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For anyone looking to add table saw accessory space or for people with router tables in there table saws a wing box is probably my favorite shop project. Holds so much stuff and gives me places to put all the accessories you don't always use all the time. 
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Small project gets finished
I put away my ww tools back in the early 1980s when my daughters were young. All projects in the works were put on ice. After they grew up and left the payroll, I reopened my workshop. But then the day job got in the way and minor projects were left untouched.
When I cleaned up my lathe table I found one of those old projects and moved it to the top of the list. It was a simple spaghetti server that I carved from cherry. Might not show, but I spent hours on that thing. I roughed it out with the bandsaw and started whittling and carving.
It needed some sharpened dowels.
Here is a quick way to cut them safely.
So it was sharpen, cut and repeat four more times.
Then it was a simple job to make a few holes and glue the dowels in place.
Of course, I had to sign it.
And now it is on its way to a pair of pasta loving granddaughters. It was a small project but was some of the most fun I have had in the shop in awhile. It was a real treat to crank out a surprise for some people I love.
I put away my ww tools back in the early 1980s when my daughters were young. All projects in the works were put on ice. After they grew up and left the payroll, I reopened my workshop. But then the day job got in the way and minor projects were left untouched.
When I cleaned up my lathe table I found one of those old projects and moved it to the top of the list. It was a simple spaghetti server that I carved from cherry. Might not show, but I spent hours on that thing. I roughed it out with the bandsaw and started whittling and carving.
It needed some sharpened dowels.
Here is a quick way to cut them safely.
So it was sharpen, cut and repeat four more times.
Then it was a simple job to make a few holes and glue the dowels in place.
Of course, I had to sign it.
And now it is on its way to a pair of pasta loving granddaughters. It was a small project but was some of the most fun I have had in the shop in awhile. It was a real treat to crank out a surprise for some people I love.
mefast
Well-known member
Nice projects everyone! I'm getting closer to finishing my shelf (time is hard to find between being at work all day and looking after our 4 month old son in the evenings). Once the shelf is all done, I'll post up photos.
In the meantime, I've been trying to figure out layouts in the garage. Most of it has been done inside my head while holding a screaming child.
What size is everyone's wood working areas?
The area I'm planning on working in will be about 14' x 12'. I know that's not very big, but I should be able to contain shavings and saw dust within it to keep our vehicles and other areas of the garage tidy. Thoughts?
In the meantime, I've been trying to figure out layouts in the garage. Most of it has been done inside my head while holding a screaming child.
What size is everyone's wood working areas?
The area I'm planning on working in will be about 14' x 12'. I know that's not very big, but I should be able to contain shavings and saw dust within it to keep our vehicles and other areas of the garage tidy. Thoughts?
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
mefast: My shop is an 8'x10' corner of the basement with a table saw in the garage. The dimensions of your shop sound like a roller rink compared to what I'm used to. Do roller rinks still exist?
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Mefast--On shop layout I have just one word--wheels.
OK. Maybe a few more words. I have mobile bases with wheels, shelving units with wheels, tool chests with wheels, and my air compressor is on a furniture dolly. Having so many things mobile really helps me in my tight spaces.
OK. Maybe a few more words. I have mobile bases with wheels, shelving units with wheels, tool chests with wheels, and my air compressor is on a furniture dolly. Having so many things mobile really helps me in my tight spaces.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Making a traditional plane cutter box
Cast iron multi-planes were introduced in the late 19th century and most manufacturers made cutter boxes for the assortment of blades. These boxes are very handy because they reduce rust (from condensation) and also keep all of the cutters in one place. They are not too hard to make.
I have a Hamler bronze reproduction of the early Stanley Miller plane. Paul sold these without blades so I made a few sets for me and my ww buddies. That was a long time ago. Now I need a box.
I started with some 1/4" basswood from HD.
Laid out the blades to determine the size.
I cut two pieces and then found a scrap for the middle of the sandwich. The blades are 1/8" thick and the center needs to be 5/32 or 3/16 so the blades do not bind.
Sides are glued on first.
Then the top and bottom are glued on.
Then it is lunch time. The glue needs to set for a few hours.
After lunch, it is time to finish the box glue up. Here is where we are. Notice the gaps. More on that later.
Simple matter to glue on the front. Pay attention and make sure the grain lines up.
Time for another break so the glue can dry. Stay tuned.
Cast iron multi-planes were introduced in the late 19th century and most manufacturers made cutter boxes for the assortment of blades. These boxes are very handy because they reduce rust (from condensation) and also keep all of the cutters in one place. They are not too hard to make.
I have a Hamler bronze reproduction of the early Stanley Miller plane. Paul sold these without blades so I made a few sets for me and my ww buddies. That was a long time ago. Now I need a box.
I started with some 1/4" basswood from HD.
Laid out the blades to determine the size.
I cut two pieces and then found a scrap for the middle of the sandwich. The blades are 1/8" thick and the center needs to be 5/32 or 3/16 so the blades do not bind.
Sides are glued on first.
Then the top and bottom are glued on.
Then it is lunch time. The glue needs to set for a few hours.
After lunch, it is time to finish the box glue up. Here is where we are. Notice the gaps. More on that later.
Simple matter to glue on the front. Pay attention and make sure the grain lines up.
Time for another break so the glue can dry. Stay tuned.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Blade box continued
In my haste to complete the glue up, I neglected to pay attention to the gaps. Now I have to pay the price. Time to whittle a little plug.
Time passes as glue dries. When it is sufficiently dry, I remove the clamps and square off the top and bottom on the table saw. The grain runs from top to bottom so the top and bottom are end grain. The table saw does a nice job finishing the end grain. For the sides, however, I like to use a handplane. Here is my #62 in action.
Before
After
With all of the edges clean, our next step is to mark the box for a cut. Traditionally the tops of these blade boxes is held on by the blades themselves. So the box needs to be cut about 1/3 of its length from the top.
The box cut is easily made with the table saw. Here are the blades in their new home.
OK. Project done. Woodworking is fun.
In my haste to complete the glue up, I neglected to pay attention to the gaps. Now I have to pay the price. Time to whittle a little plug.
Time passes as glue dries. When it is sufficiently dry, I remove the clamps and square off the top and bottom on the table saw. The grain runs from top to bottom so the top and bottom are end grain. The table saw does a nice job finishing the end grain. For the sides, however, I like to use a handplane. Here is my #62 in action.
Before
After
With all of the edges clean, our next step is to mark the box for a cut. Traditionally the tops of these blade boxes is held on by the blades themselves. So the box needs to be cut about 1/3 of its length from the top.
The box cut is easily made with the table saw. Here are the blades in their new home.
OK. Project done. Woodworking is fun.
so so ****.
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derosa
Well-known member
Got a pic of the underside of the router wing? That's on this week's list of things to make so I can get some chairs made. I don't have the insert nor the cash for one right now so just a 3/4" particle board top with quarter sawn red oak sides and was thinking of using some cabinet plywood to stiffen up the whole thing but running strips from one side to the other. My hitachi has a fixed base I plan to permanently mount, just haven't worked out a decent dust collection.
Here you go. When I did mine I messed up and ended up having to get the corner levelers. The sides are oak and the center is the top from an old desk. No sagging so far. I wish I would have moved the insert plate a little closer to the table saw side or extended the wing another inch. I don't have a miter track in there right now and am unsure if I really have enough room to put one in.
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mefast: my vehicles get placed in the garage unless I am actively working on a project then mine can stay out, wife's can stay in. My area where my tools are is 7' deep by just under 12' wide. Get creative with your spacing like router table in a table saw and flip top table stands to reduce footprints on tools. 
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mefast
Well-known member
CRS, Jim, Zach and Rich,
Thanks for all of your responses about shop size and how to best utilize the space I do have. The main area of my garage is actually about 24' long by 40' wide, but 14' of that width is an add-on lean to and I try to park as many vehicles as I can fit in the remaining 26'. The woodworking area would share the lean-to with the furnace room that I eventually hope will be a home gym and tire storage.
My plan was to add castors to both the woodworking bench and a yet-to-be-built bench to house my contractors table saw and a router table. Tuck the lathe as close to the wall as possible, yet still be functional. Then within the two benches, have tool storage and build cabinets for the upper walls to house anything else that doesn't have a spot. Being able to multi-purpose the portable miter saw stand for other stationary tools is another idea that I've been thinking about.
Any tips for woodworking shop layouts? In kitchens, the recommended thought is to make a triangle between the fridge, sink and stove. Other than having a good bench in a central location, I've never really heard of something similar for woodworking.
Thanks for all of your responses about shop size and how to best utilize the space I do have. The main area of my garage is actually about 24' long by 40' wide, but 14' of that width is an add-on lean to and I try to park as many vehicles as I can fit in the remaining 26'. The woodworking area would share the lean-to with the furnace room that I eventually hope will be a home gym and tire storage.
My plan was to add castors to both the woodworking bench and a yet-to-be-built bench to house my contractors table saw and a router table. Tuck the lathe as close to the wall as possible, yet still be functional. Then within the two benches, have tool storage and build cabinets for the upper walls to house anything else that doesn't have a spot. Being able to multi-purpose the portable miter saw stand for other stationary tools is another idea that I've been thinking about.
Any tips for woodworking shop layouts? In kitchens, the recommended thought is to make a triangle between the fridge, sink and stove. Other than having a good bench in a central location, I've never really heard of something similar for woodworking.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
These are probably the worst choices for having wheels as you really need them to be stable and not move around on you while in use, though I have a pair of (joined) table saws on a mobile base that is rather stable. My big bandsaw is on a mobile base, which isn't too bad.
Your benches need to transfer forces directly to the floor, as in planing and similar operations.
My shop is roughly 2 double garages in tandem, minus a storage room which is about 8' x 14' IIRC. That makes it way overcrowded.
