Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

[turbowoodworker]

Not woodworking, but not worth starting a thread over either, but last night while leaving the in-laws' house I had to stop and help put out a small brush fire on the other in-laws' property.

Seems uncle put out some ashes that got out of the barrel, under the two inches of snow and started a fire in the leaves. We got it controlled and kept it from getting to an overhanging tree which would have taken it to an outbuilding. The VFD showed up and dowsed it. No harm done, just a little excitement.

Now it was 22*F while we were doing this, and no wind. All I kept thinking about was the poor people in CA fighting the recent fires in 75*F, 5% humidity with 45 mph winds. Not a job I would relish. So kudos to our firefighters and smokejumpers.

Now back to some real woodworking:

 

[jimreed2160]

The chisel roll controversy roils

It is true that point covers prevent pocket damage and they also prevent errant sticks if the chisels are stored with points up. I once had a set of Marples blue chisels that had really nice point covers and they were stored in a roll with points up. But then the point covers become a problem because they have to be removed.

When I was a young lad and could afford only two chisels, I made sheaths for them by folding and taping the blister card they were sold on. This makeshift sheath protected the cutting edges as the chisels rolled around in a toolbox drawer.

So now we have another controversial subject--chisel point covers. Yea or nay???

 

[PCustoms]

Anyone got some good finishing tips or tricks? In the past (learned from Dad) I would just use some Minwax stain, maybe a sealer and then poly.

Currently working on some Hickory face frames and want to go either white or light green. Minwax sells a water bourne stain that is the perfect color, but my trials so far it doesn't seem to penetrate the wood. My best looking sample was 3 light coats, but it was still just sitting on the surface.

Going to try some powdered dye next, picked up some Rit last night to to play with, is this really any different then the transtint dye?

 

[cspcrx]

The Mrs. and I wrapped this one up just before the holidays. First large project of this scale. Everything was raw materials from lowes & homedepot with the exception of the upper cabinets we used as base cabinets. Saved a lot of time. Drilling the holes for the verticals had to be the most mind numbing. Found a tip on here about using strapping as a guide, huge help. She did a great job staining the tops. Now she has her own room.

Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr
Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr
Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr

 

[ez-duzit]

x--that turned out very well.

 

[jimreed2160]

PC--Good luck with that hickory. It is a tough and dense wood and I am not surprised that it laughs at the Minwax. My guess on the Rit dye is that it will bleach out over time. I would check out the dyes from Rockler.

Csp--What a transformation! Great helper and a great project.

 

[cheechi]

Not sure I've ever seen hickory take a stain. Seen it in pieces next to other woods that have been stained, but the hickory parts were always just sanded and top coated. Good luck with it.

 

[ez-duzit]

...the point covers become a problem because they have to be removed...

Come on! Point covers solve a problem.

I have used the same (original) cloth tool roll for my well used Japanese chisels for decades. No holes. The point protectors keep the very sharp edges very sharp, with zero risk of injury to the tool roll or to oneself.

 

[turbowoodworker]

I save all the commercial point covers (until they get lost!!). My newest set of chisels (Narex from Veritas/Lee Valley) came with really nice covers. Trying not to lose them.

 

[jimreed2160]

Come on! Point covers solve a problem.

I have used the same (original) cloth tool roll for my well used Japanese chisels for decades. No holes. The point protectors keep the very sharp edges very sharp, with zero risk of injury to the tool roll or to oneself.

I think it really depends on how you work. I like to have a graduated set of chisels handy so I can quickly pick up the one I need. Sometimes the best chisel is a different size. For example, a 3/8 chisel is not always the best size for cleaning out a 3/8 groove--sometimes a 1/4 is quicker. Sometimes ALL of my chisels are not sharp and I grab the next up or down size to continue. If the project has scope, the benchtop may have many covers scattered about and keeping track of them takes time.

And the covers themselves can be a problem. Inexpensive chisels have inexpensive covers that get loose over time and vanish. The Marples covers were tight and but they required care to avoid sticks when replacing .

Japanese chisels do not have caps, so the caps would have to be made or sourced.

Sometimes the world is not simple.

 

[56vette461]

Chisel cloth rolls.

My dad was a finish carpenter and mill right. He carried about 15-20 chisels of various lengths, shapes and sizes for as long as I could remember. He made his own tool roll using canvas fabric and leather strips sown into the pockets. The leather was about the thickness of a shoe tongue. This protected the sharpness of his chisel and prevented holes being punched through the pocket. My mom gave his chisels to a young man who worked for him and was learning to be a finish carpenter along with the tool roll. After 25 years I think its all long gone.

 

[rrich1]

Anyone going to attend the Lie Nielsen hand tool event in Chicago on Jan 26-27? I'm going on the 27th. Never been to one and I just got weekends off for the year so I figured I would check it out. Only a 2hr drive.

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[jimreed2160]

Shoptime!

It was 52 degrees in the shop today and that was OK for me. I put on a flannel shirt and got busy. I cleaned up some old storage and found two mouse baby mummies. Yuuuuk. But then I got busy and made a router base for my bushing guide. I will use this setup to route two pockets on the underside of my table so I can install strengthening patches. The first thing I had to do was find some mounting points. I found two and had to find a screw to match. Luckily I had my screw finder nearby and found I needed two 4 x 7 metric screws. The back organizers had multiple sizes.

Next task was to make a base. I used a piece of 3/16 plywood. Once the base was attached, I used a pointed bit followed by a chamfer cutter that was a perfect match for the bushing guide. It fit just fine.

 

[jimreed2160]

Router base continued

After everything fit, I countersunk the guide and the screws and then attached the base for good.

I plan to use a 1/2" straight bit to route the box. The plunge cut will be tricky but I will practice on some scrap beforehand.

Next thing to do was make the guide pattern. I eyeballed the cracks and drew off a rectangle that seemed correct. I thought that 1/2 of the depth would be good enough and it turns out that depth is a plywood sandwich. I used the bandsaw to cut out the holes and then glued them together.

This three hour shop session wore me out but I finished the router bottom and the template guide. Next session is practice holes before I tackle the real table top.

 

[cspcrx]

EZ & Jim thanks guys.

I got a miter saw out of the deal so I through in the electrical, lights and dimmer, as an extra touch. LOL

it used to be a small spare guest room that only got used twice in 10 years. She is happy and it challenged me. She is a great helper, luckily we work well together!

 

[ez-duzit]

...the benchtop may have many covers scattered about and keeping track of them takes time...

Oh come on!

 

[jimreed2160]

Routing pockets

I brought the glued up template inside last night so the glue would cure faster. I could not wait for a test drive this morning. Got out my new dust connector kit and connected the router to the shopvac.

Then I went to town on a trial 2x4. The cut went fine and did not seem to be too much trouble. I measured it with the caliper. If you ever wondered about that piece that sticks out at the bottom, well it is a depth indicator. Mine showed that the depth of cut was right at 13/32. That is a little over 1/2 of the depth and exactly where I wanted it. Time to move on to the real thing.

 

[jimreed2160]

Fire for effect

I was feeling pretty good about this project so I moved on to the real pockets. I used a few woodscrews to hold the top in place and to hold the template to the top. Dust collection was iffy because the router base prevented most of the chips from exiting the cut. At least it cut down on the airborne dust. I would rout a bit and then stop to clean out the pocket.

Things were tight and I had to clamp very close to one side, cut and then move the clamp to the other side. But the bushing collet followed the template very well. The pockets were easy to do and the exposed wood is in great shape except for the cracks. Both of these are bookmatched and have the same crack in the same place. Crack #2 is the larger and I managed to shave the biscuit in half.

I enjoy working with my router except for the dust and mess. Cleaning up the mess took longer than making the two pockets.

It was impossible to see inside the pocket while using the router but I did a pretty complete job. The resulting pockets have a few tiny defects that need about 2 minutes of chisel work to resolve. Next step is to fix those issues and then cut the patches from the cherry I split earlier.

 

[jimreed2160]

Glue up

I planed the reinforcement pieces flat and then cut them to fit. Since this repair will not show, I did not take time to make it look pretty. It was much easier to round over the corners.

Next step is to plane the reinforcement pieces level. Then I can work on the topside.

 

[jimreed2160]

Glue up

I planed the reinforcement pieces flat and then cut them to fit. Since this repair will not show, I did not take time to make it look pretty. It was much easier to round over the corners.

Next step is to plane the reinforcement pieces level. Then I can work on the topside.

Pictures?

 

[rrich1]

Wife decided she needed a toy/board game armoire for the toy room before I needed a hand tool cabinet. I found some plans online to save me some time. Decided to mill my own poplar though so kind of a wash I guess. I purchased the wood pecker shelf pin jig and used it today. Very nice jig and super easy to use. I used a router and it left no tear out. I did one side of the carcass in about 5 min. This will eventually get stained Ebony.

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[cspcrx]

I just had a flashback looking at that board with all of those holes. Your jig would have saved me a lot of time.

Nice work!

I know the feeling. Mine decided she needed end tables before I need a workbench.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Looking good Jim & Rich!

I picked up the Milescraft cabinet mate jig at Menards before Christmas. It's only plastic but seems durable enough and if/when I wear it out then I can get a nicer metal one like the woodpeckers. Those jigs make life so much easier.

 

[rlitman]

I keep thinking about making a chisel roll. But for now, I keep the most used ones on a magnetic strip near the bench.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Hey Jim,
Not trying to bring up a previously beat up topic (butterfly Dutchmen), but can you explain how the rectangular patch will add any strength the way those cracks are oriented. I can see the glue surface holding a little but there is not much mechanical strength there. Just asking.
Rick

 

[jimreed2160]

Hey Jim,
Not trying to bring up a previously beat up topic (butterfly Dutchmen), but can you explain how the rectangular patch will add any strength the way those cracks are oriented. I can see the glue surface holding a little but there is not much mechanical strength there. Just asking.
Rick

Great question. Woodworkers of yore would probably just rip and repair or replace the whole top. Kinda like what is done these days. In fact, I think this is the second top in the life of this table. The base is walnut and the top is cherry and there are nails in the frame that do not match this top. But I really like this top with its character AND its extra width for overhang. The guy who glued it for me years ago took a belt sander to it and that nearly killed me. My goal this time was to retain as much of its original charm as I could.

OK. Here is my repair theory. I see the wood patch serving the same purpose as a wood spline. It works because even a small piece of wood can add lots of strength. So this patch is like an external spline. It is not a traditional joint because glue of yore was not nearly as advanced as glue of today.

Crack #1 was pretty stable after the biscuits. There are seven of the large #20 size from one end to the other. I augmented the last two biscuits to make that end more stable.

Crack #2 is a little different. When I assessed the top I realized that the two boards were bookmatched and both had the same flaw. Then I noticed that Crack #2 was unstable and wiggled a bit. I didn't want to split it open so the patch seemed the best way to lock it down.

I need to resand the top and try to minimize damage from before. After that I plan to fill the cracks with shellac sticks.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Thanks Jim. I guess you might call it a half spline as it is not buried.

 

[ez-duzit]

... guess you might call it a half spline....

This type of repair is usually referred to as a "Dutchman". A "spline" fits into a groove.

 

[turbowoodworker]

You might want to reread my two previous posts. My half spline comment was tongue in cheek.

 

[jimreed2160]

Work on patches

It was a nice 75 degree day and I needed to run some errands. But I still managed to snag some shop time to work on my spline/Dutchmen/patches. The name can be puzzling but the strength is not. I cannot flex either of the cracks now so I am declaring victory. Time will tell if it is a lasting one.

One issue is that they are proud of the surface. It is irregular and the highest spot is about 3/16. Most high sides are about 1/8 and taper down to 1/16. It is better to have too much than too little because I have lots of planes.

I started with the LN scrub plane. It took almost ten minutes to tame the first patch. When I started to take tiny scoops out of the underside of the table, I switched to the LN #7. That job took another ten minutes and left the first patch level and pretty to boot.

I hope the other one goes as easy.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Thanks for posting the details, Jim.

Rick

 

[ez-duzit]

...One issue is that they are proud of the surface. It is irregular and the highest spot is about 3/16...
I started with the LN scrub plane. It took almost ten minutes to tame the first patch...I switched to the LN #7. That job took another ten minutes and left the first patch level...

Tip--about 20 seconds on the bandsaw, thinning the graving piece, could have saved you nearly 20 minutes of planing per Dutchman.

The router leaves a perfectly even depth of cut, so it is fairly straightforward to thickness the graving piece such that it will come out nearly flush, leaving just enough to require a few swipes with the plane after gluing.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Can't wait to see the finished product on the table once you get the cracks filled.

 

[drivesitfar]

Jim: thanks for showing us another method of fixing a crack in a table top.

RR: i didn't know they made a jig for all those support holes that looks like it makes the job a lot easier. thanks for sharing and best of luck on the wife's project.

ALL: i ended up using a smaller new spade bit I had in my drawer for drilling holes for bolts in my frame, but i do like the newer Irwin ones i own and just needed to find the new ones i own. yep having your tools handy is one thing and being able to find them would be nice too if you don't put them back.

have a great day everyone!!

 

[jimreed2160]

More table top

I attacked the second patch today with my scrub while rocking to an old Huey Lewis tune. And before the last sax solo of "I Want a New Drug" I was finished with the whole thing. There is a bit of tearout but it will be hidden.

I took pictures of the BAD crack as well as the whole top. It has lots of character and I want to save as much as I can while also rehabilitating it. The top never got a final sanding. After the original butchering forty years ago, I was so disgusted that I just coated it with poly and called it a day. Now that I have more time and patience I hope that I can do it justice.

I started by sanding it lightly. It is looking good so far.

 

[rrich1]

Armoire is coming together. Today I got the rest of the holes routed, routed the back to receive the rear panel, notched out the bottom for trim later, and got the case glued and screwed together. With such large pieces I routed out the rabbet for the back instead of using the dado blade. Wasn't sure I would be able to keep enough downward pressure throughout the cut. Workbench and vise solved any holding problems.

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[Craptain]

Armoire is coming together. Today I got the rest of the holes routed, routed the back to receive the rear panel, notched out the bottom for trim later, and got the case glued and screwed together. With such large pieces I routed out the rabbet for the back instead of using the dado blade. Wasn't sure I would be able to keep enough downward pressure throughout the cut. Workbench and vise solved any holding problems.

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Yeah yeah, just showing off that fancy vise you got. JK.

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[jimreed2160]

rrich--Good progress. I like to see that new vise on the job.

 

[rrich1]

Thanks guys.

I got the back piece cut, sanded, and put it. I went to my wood store today and bought some maple veneer for the plywood edges. This was iron on and I used a fast cap cutter to cut off the excess. The cutter is very slick and does a great job. I used my apron plane to get the edges flush. I also cut some of the strips needed for the "face frame" for the sides and doors. I wish I wouldnt have cut so many at one time on the bandsaw. It would have been easier to cut them into less pieces the. Joint and plane them. Then cut them on the table saw. Oh well. I'll do that for the next set.

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[drivesitfar]

Rich: i've seen a few of you members use this jig for those sideways predrilled screw holes and I think it's called a KREG? or what is the brand of yours and do you like it and would you recommend it or another brand or name? or maybe others could answer this while Rich is working on his project?

nice work and also agreed it's nice to see you using that AWESOME BENCH you built.