It's a wood whisperer guild project. I can't remember he based the design on.
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Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
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R_einan
Well-known member
Well, this project got sidelined for quite awhile, too many other priorities. I finally got the no. 3 coated and reassembled. It’s as perfect as I can really make it.
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fartymarty
Well-known member
That looks great R', but if you really want us to drool
then you need to put a couple of onion skin like shavings along side of it in the photos. 
Notgrownup
Well-known member
When I had mine going (a smaller metal vac) I made it side by side. This cut down on it being too heavy and also allowed it to fit underneath my table saw at the time.
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purplezr2
Well-known member
What is everyone using for assembly screws for cabinets etc, if not using pocket screws. I don’t have any local source and need to order online. ***** to not be able to fondle them first.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
I use stainless flathead sheet metal screws (never pocket screws) because my cabinets are installed on yachts
Notgrownup
Well-known member
When I had mine going (a smaller metal vac) I made it side by side. This cut down on it being too heavy and also allowed it to fit underneath my table saw at the time.
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Damnit, I should’ve thought about that, I guess I was concerned about the footprint size...I do have a smaller shop vac...
Thanks for the idea
R_einan
Well-known member
I use GRK or Spax torx drive cabinet screws for the occasional screw. I prefer to design the piece to avoid using fasteners as much as possible though.
jar944
Well-known member
Spax or pocket screws (outside of a pocket)
jar944
Well-known member
Setting these forms for sonotubes is as close as I've gotten to wood working lately. Finally found a use for that last sheet of sandeply...
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riceaterSLC
Well-known member
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- Jun 23, 2011
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I'm installing wainscoting and have run into an issue with an outside corner miter. Below is the mockup of the two joining panels, they are not yet attached to the wall or pieced together.
I cut the miter using a track saw after than panels were assembled. There is a significant gap down the middle of the miter. I was originally planning on gluing the panels together then attaching to the wall, but I'm not sure my little miter spring clamps have enough pressure to hold the pieces together, or that the glue is even strong enough.
Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this?
I cut the miter using a track saw after than panels were assembled. There is a significant gap down the middle of the miter. I was originally planning on gluing the panels together then attaching to the wall, but I'm not sure my little miter spring clamps have enough pressure to hold the pieces together, or that the glue is even strong enough.
Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this?
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
Re-cut the miter properly.
fartymarty
Well-known member
Well yes there is that option....but I think he is trying to save what he has.
I'm no expert woodworker, so I'm just telling you what I would try before starting over. To be clear starting over might be the best option, but it is one I would try to avoid if I could,.... 'cause I'm lazy. I would get a 45 degree chamfer bit on a router table and maybe a strip of tape on the table top near the bit and running parallel to the fence to raise the work up just a bit so that the bit cuts the back of the miter first and just sneak up on it removing a little bit each pass until it fits good (or good enough depending on how particular you are). If you have to "fudge something" (tech term, I like to throw in any response to make me look more knowledgeable) because the piece ends up a little shorter it is easier to hide or disguise it at the inside corner on the left of the first photo. For instance
you may need to add a thin strip of wood glued and sanded flush to the end of the left piece, but it probably wouldn't be noticed in the inside corner after painting.
.....or you could just ...
ez-duzit
Well-known member
I did not suggest that he start over--simply re-cut the miter.
fartymarty
Well-known member
OK, sorry. My error.
Do you have a biscuit joiner and clamps to go across the joint in both directions? The biscuits would keep the joint from sliding around and provide extra strength the clamps would then pull the joint together.
riceaterSLC
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I'm no expert woodworker, so I'm just telling you what I would try before starting over. To be clear starting over might be the best option, but it is one I would try to avoid if I could,.... 'cause I'm lazy. I would get a 45 degree chamfer bit on a router table and maybe a strip of tape on the table top near the bit and running parallel to the fence to raise the work up just a bit so that the bit cuts the back of the miter first and just sneak up on it removing a little bit each pass until it fits good (or good enough depending on how particular you are). If you have to "fudge something" (tech term, I like to throw in any response to make me look more knowledgeable) because the piece ends up a little shorter it is easier to hide or disguise it at the inside corner on the left of the first photo. For instance
you may need to add a thin strip of wood glued and sanded flush to the end of the left piece, but it probably wouldn't be noticed in the inside corner after painting.
.....or you could just ...
thank you for the helpful response, i wouldn't have thought about doing it this way. so just to repeat what you said in a different way, "trim" some of the back side of the miter so that the rails line up with the styles? thanks again.
riceaterSLC
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another great idea, thanks. i have a domino, and about a dozen of the clamps you see in the photo. i didn't think about using the domino, but i could use the smallest dominos and pull that joint closer. do you think the glue would hold that joint closed? thanks again for the tip.
I think the glue would hold, most glues are stronger than the wood itself. If you go this route, it would be a good idea to do a dry run before applying glue. Depending on how large the gap is, the dominos could bottom out in their holes before the joint closes. The clamping pressure needed to close up the gap would give you the best idea if the pieces could be used as is or not. If you’re breaking out in a sweat, gritting your teeth, and grunting trying to pull the joint closed, it’s probably not going to work. Lol
jar944
Well-known member
I would remake the corner with the stiles full length and either miterfold or lockmiter then add the rails afterwards.
Alternatively just see if tape in a miterfold setup would pull that corner together. I'm assuming the wood has a bow if it's that far off and you used a track saw.
Alternatively just see if tape in a miterfold setup would pull that corner together. I'm assuming the wood has a bow if it's that far off and you used a track saw.
riceaterSLC
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i have tons of scrap from other mistakes
do workworking they said. it'll be fun they said.this may be what i do. yes, the face of the style is slightly bowed out from the rail, causing the gap. just googled miterfold and makes a lot of sense for this application. i have a 1x2 that'll cap the wainscot panel so the full length style seam won't even show. thanks for the tip!
fartymarty
Well-known member
yes, the face of the style is slightly bowed out from the rail, causing the gap. just googled miterfold and makes a lot of sense for this application. i have a 1x2 that'll cap the wainscot panel so the full length style seam won't even show. thanks for the tip!
In my initial response I had assumed that the gap was because the miter wasn't cut right and that it was hitting in the back and not that it was caused by the wood bowing. Looking closer at the photograph I can see light coming through so I guess that rules out the miter hitting in the back of the joint. If that is the case and it is just the wood bowing then perhaps you could cut some blocking (corner blocks) to back up the joint to hold it together when glued and clamped. Then notch out the (probably never to be seen again) drywall behind it for clearance.
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jar944
Well-known member
Not wood but woodworking..ish. recesssd panel column bases / wraps out of pvc sheet. These are non structural (obviously) these get a 6" tall base, 2" tall cap and panel moulding to finish them out.
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Basically the plastic version of this
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Basically the plastic version of this
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Ray-CA
Well-known member
I just bought a set of 45-degree lock miter joint router bits. Anyone have an easy or best way to adjust and set these up for use?
Thanks,
Ray
Thanks,
Ray
Lock Miters are pretty easy once you understand them. There are two adjustments, the height of the bit and where to position the fence.
Bit height is usually done first. You have two options, you can just eyeball it and try to align the boards you are working with so that the center of the board is pretty much centered on the two horizontal flats of the bit. This should get you close but is going to require making a bunch of test cuts. Roughly set your fence, mark UP on one of the boards and run both pieces through the cutter on the table, not up against the fence. Place the boards on a flat surface so the joint interlock, with the UP board UP and feel how flat/level the top of the two boards are. If the UP board is higher than the other board, raise the cutter up. If it is lower, lower the cutter. Rinse and repeat until they are both level
Fence Position - first make sure the fence is flat across and then place one of your boards up against the fence on edge. Take a straight edge, place it against the board and slowly move the fence in until the straight edge is just touching the cutter and then back it off just a hair. There is a relationship between the cutter height and fence position. If you raise or lower the cutter, the fence needs to be adjusted
The second way to find the proper bit height involves a little measuring and some math, but you only have to do it once, and it will help you quickly get real close no matter what thickness the wood your working with. You will need some sort of digital measuring device to measure how high your router bit is above the table
Basically, you want the center of the router bit to be at the same height as the center of the board you working with. The center of a 3/4" board is going to be around .375".
To find the center of your router bit, mount it in your router table and you want to measure the distance up to the two horizontal flats of the bit. The center of the bit is going to be between those two surfaces, so subtract the lower measurement from the higher measurement and then divide by two. This number is going to be what I call the 'offset'. I add that number to the center of the board number and that will give me the height that the top of the top cutter needs to be to align that cutter with the center of the board.
Sounds complicated but it really isn't. I drew up this diagram a while ago which may help you visualize it better. So this is for my Bosch bit, and I now know that the offset for this bit is .177". So All I have to do now is measure the thickness of my board, find the center and then add .177" to it which will be the height of the top of the top cutter.
In this diagram, on the right is a 3/4" board and you can see why you need to align the center of the board with the center of the bit and the math to do it
This is 3/4" MDO plywood
Bit height is usually done first. You have two options, you can just eyeball it and try to align the boards you are working with so that the center of the board is pretty much centered on the two horizontal flats of the bit. This should get you close but is going to require making a bunch of test cuts. Roughly set your fence, mark UP on one of the boards and run both pieces through the cutter on the table, not up against the fence. Place the boards on a flat surface so the joint interlock, with the UP board UP and feel how flat/level the top of the two boards are. If the UP board is higher than the other board, raise the cutter up. If it is lower, lower the cutter. Rinse and repeat until they are both level
Fence Position - first make sure the fence is flat across and then place one of your boards up against the fence on edge. Take a straight edge, place it against the board and slowly move the fence in until the straight edge is just touching the cutter and then back it off just a hair. There is a relationship between the cutter height and fence position. If you raise or lower the cutter, the fence needs to be adjusted
The second way to find the proper bit height involves a little measuring and some math, but you only have to do it once, and it will help you quickly get real close no matter what thickness the wood your working with. You will need some sort of digital measuring device to measure how high your router bit is above the table
Basically, you want the center of the router bit to be at the same height as the center of the board you working with. The center of a 3/4" board is going to be around .375".
To find the center of your router bit, mount it in your router table and you want to measure the distance up to the two horizontal flats of the bit. The center of the bit is going to be between those two surfaces, so subtract the lower measurement from the higher measurement and then divide by two. This number is going to be what I call the 'offset'. I add that number to the center of the board number and that will give me the height that the top of the top cutter needs to be to align that cutter with the center of the board.
Sounds complicated but it really isn't. I drew up this diagram a while ago which may help you visualize it better. So this is for my Bosch bit, and I now know that the offset for this bit is .177". So All I have to do now is measure the thickness of my board, find the center and then add .177" to it which will be the height of the top of the top cutter.
In this diagram, on the right is a 3/4" board and you can see why you need to align the center of the board with the center of the bit and the math to do it
This is 3/4" MDO plywood
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
G--good post.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
I agree, good post. One tip I have found useful for lock miters as well as cope and stick paired bit sets. Once you have them set up perfectly, save your last test piece as a template for future setups. I keep them with the bits. Of course this only works if the materials are of identical thickness.
Thanks, Git, for posting.
Thanks, Git, for posting.
Got back to the chest of drawers. The drawer joinery is a half lap dovetail. Simple setup on the router table. First time using it. That part went fine. I then messed up on the spacing for the bottom. It was supposed to be 1/2" from the bottom but I made it 1/4". Luckily I had scraps left over from getting the drawers to fit. I refined the thickness on the drum sander. Cut the height down in half on the band saw and glued in the pieces to fill the dado. About a minute per piece to flush them up with a hand plane. I then recut the dado at the correct height. Dumb mistake that was easy to fix but took time to do. 
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woody 73
Well-known member
I apologize up front if this is not really a shop tip but I thought some of you might enjoy a post I did on how the auger bit "FORD" got it's name. My posts go so fast some of you might not ever see it again and I thought you might enjoy it.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=465353
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=465353
jar944
Well-known member
"Tomo" hook bend on a General Tools 843-1 Compass & Scribe
Works rather well
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Works rather well
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Hi all, happy I found this thread, I've already learned plenty just browsing through older posts here. And don't think the username means I'm any sort of pro... I am not!! Lol.
Does anyone have experience using heat lamps or small fan/heaters to help with staining and finishing in cold weather? Winter is creeping in here in Indiana and in my current living situation, my 'workshop' is an uninsulated garage. I'd like to do smaller projects like bandsaw boxes, some shelves and small end tables etc, using mostly oil-based stain (I've got some fast-dry types that are supposed to dry in an hour) and for finish (which I'm also pretty new at) I have Minwax polyurethane (and mineral spirits if a wipe-on mix works better?) and spray lacquer. Something that I could just put on a table and point at the project would be great...
From anyone who's done this, any advice, warnings and especially heat lamp recommendations would be much appreciated!
Does anyone have experience using heat lamps or small fan/heaters to help with staining and finishing in cold weather? Winter is creeping in here in Indiana and in my current living situation, my 'workshop' is an uninsulated garage. I'd like to do smaller projects like bandsaw boxes, some shelves and small end tables etc, using mostly oil-based stain (I've got some fast-dry types that are supposed to dry in an hour) and for finish (which I'm also pretty new at) I have Minwax polyurethane (and mineral spirits if a wipe-on mix works better?) and spray lacquer. Something that I could just put on a table and point at the project would be great...
From anyone who's done this, any advice, warnings and especially heat lamp recommendations would be much appreciated!
jar944
Well-known member
I occasionally run a propane heater in my shop if it gets cold enough (but thats mostly for glue ups) ill spray lacquer down to the he high 30s/low 40s
I'd be very leery of hear lamps for fear of isolated overheating of the finish. Can you just bring the piece inside after finishing to dry?
jar944
Well-known member
Pvc.. its Just like wood, just more $$ and makes statically charged dust that sticks to everything.
Finally got these all installed the other day
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Finally got these all installed the other day
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fartymarty
Well-known member
1Garageman
Well-known member
^^^^VERY nice job!
jar944
Well-known member
Its just azek pvc glue
You are giving my inspiration to wrap the columns on my porch. We currently have some ugly cylinders and would like to have square posts. Might have to try this technique.
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Everyone here looks like they are making progress in the shop. I just want to get back to working in the shop. Still working on trim work and will be happy when this is done. Lots of miters... 
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