txlonghorn1989
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He wants a little more than I'm willing to pay CRS. I'm going to pass on it.
Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
- Start date
Need some cabinet hinge help. What to buy... Blum site just makes my head spin.
Only need a pair.
Don't need soft close but if a set is reasonable... and it will be a small door, 10X11.5in ish.
Concealed hinge, overlay, panel cabinet type with only 1/4in overlay, reveal 1/4in.
the reveal 1/4in, will be the gap next to an overlay drawer.
Only need a pair.
Don't need soft close but if a set is reasonable... and it will be a small door, 10X11.5in ish.
Concealed hinge, overlay, panel cabinet type with only 1/4in overlay, reveal 1/4in.
the reveal 1/4in, will be the gap next to an overlay drawer.
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CRSINMICH
Well-known member
vwpieces: I don't have any specific hinge information for you. There must be someplace near you that can give tell you what you need to know. I hope it's someplace other than a big box store. I'm lucky to live near a neighborhood hardware store (remember those?) which has been voted one of the 12 best in the US. I do my best to keep them in business. You might have to take the plunge and just buy a pair of hinges and try to make them work. Good luck.
Any chance you might share the name of the place? I'm always looking for good B&M hardwares close enough to utilize.
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
lardy1: I once told people about a local greasy spoon and soon found that it was too crowded to get in so I'm a little hesitant to name the hardware store. I will give some clues though. Are you near Royal Oak? The & Sons on the sign are actually now & Grandsons. When we first moved in to our early 20th century house, one of the grandsons helped me find a cast iron toilet hub that hadn't been made since 1947. He found it in an upper storage room way at the back. This is such a neighborhood store that I met a future & Great Grandson at a local park when Dad took him out to play.
Sounds like Frentz & Sons.
Do you really think posting about the greasy spoon had any effect on their business or busyness? If so, it would be better to share the business info and help them thrive rather than withhold the information and drive them out of business.
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
I know it had an effect on the greasy spoon's business because the owner told me that she hated it when the restaurant got media attention because her regulars (like me) couldn't get in and when the novelty seekers moved on it took some time before her business became steady again. You're right about the hardware store though. They do regularly get featured in local media. I was mostly being careful so as not to be seen as using this forum for advertisement.
The woman who frequently runs the cash register at the hardware (she is & Aunt) told me a story about how when she was vacationing in Florida, a stranger riding in the elevator with her turned and asked, "So who's minding the register today?"
The woman who frequently runs the cash register at the hardware (she is & Aunt) told me a story about how when she was vacationing in Florida, a stranger riding in the elevator with her turned and asked, "So who's minding the register today?"
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67carl
Well-known member
After watching Craigslist for bandsaws for months and not finding anything useful ($5000 5 ton monsters, sure, $50 beat-to-**** Craftsman table top, lot of those), I bought a 14 inch 4 speed model from Harbor Freight. Had s 15% off coupon, so $380 something.
Did a ton of research and for what I'm going to use it for, it's a great deal. I'm going to swap the rubber belt for a accu-link belt and a few other small mods. Assembling it will be Saturdays project.
Did a ton of research and for what I'm going to use it for, it's a great deal. I'm going to swap the rubber belt for a accu-link belt and a few other small mods. Assembling it will be Saturdays project.
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
I saw this tip in a couple of woodworking videos and this morning I had a need for it. While preparing a workpiece for an in-progress project, I saw several round dents in the show face of the project. I have no idea where they came from but I was able to remove them by steaming. I laid a very damp, not wet, piece of cloth over the dent and then held a moderately hot iron on it for a few seconds. The steam made the crushed wood fibers swell and they returned to their original position. I'll have to test this method on several other type of surface marring but I'm fairly certain that it will only work on dents and not gashes or slashes or anything that severs the fibers. In any case, it saved me from having to remake the piece or doing a lot of scraping and/or sanding. Here's a before and after of one of the dents.
p.s. I did tell my wife that I used her iron - after the fact.
p.s. I did tell my wife that I used her iron - after the fact.
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67carl
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I remember that tip from high school wood shop! What wood species did you use it on? I vaguely remember it works better on some types of wood (soft like pine) and not so good on others (hardwood), but that was 35 years ago, so...
jar944
Well-known member
It works on just about every type of wood I've come across. You can just use a paper towel and hot water. Takes a bit longer but if it absorbs the water it swells out the dent.
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
carl: I used white oak. I know it works with soft wood too. Do a YouTube search for Frank Klausz' Water-tight Joint. He uses the same principal (with a twist) to produce a water tight seal. He learned it from his grandfather.
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67carl
Well-known member
I’m in the process of assembling my HF 14” bandsaw. I decided to change a few things while I’m at it, such as Accu-Link belts and urethane tires. I took the top wheel off, muscled on the tire and put the wheel back on. Trouble is, I don’t know how tight the nut is supposed to be. It contacts the inner race of a bearing. If I spin the wheel and tighten the nut finger tight, the wheel spins freely. If I put a socket on it and go a 1/8 turn it slows the wheel down noticeably. Any more than that it stops. Is finger tight sufficient? How tight should this nut be?
Getting it on was... a workout.
Getting it on was... a workout.
That nut should be just snug enough to remove play axially. Tightening it adds preload to the bearings, so if you're adding enough preload that the wheel slows down noticeably then you'll be wearing out your bearings prematurely.
rlitman
Well-known member
You did soak it in boiling water first, right?
67carl
Well-known member
I did and it was still truculent, but clamps, an MDF persuader and colorful language won the day.
So I’ve been pretty busy with work but I managed to get some more SYS-AZ drawers installed. I haven’t attached these base cabinets to the wall but I wanted to get these boxes of drawers out of the way. One thing I didn’t like about the SYS-PORTS or diy version is the depth. I went back and forth about what to do and decided to make 23-3/4” depth frameless cabinets. I made a drilling jig for a 5mm Snappy drill to drill two holes for the slides and two holes for shelves. That way I can store bulk consumables behind the Systainers. My wife bought me 20 of the SYS-AZ drawers for Christmas but I need more to finish getting my current inventory on drawer slides. I’m hoping I can get the rest of these fitted and then move onto building the counter tops (already have a 5’x12’ sheet of black laminate).
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seber
Well-known member
Too late now. but a trick I learned in a motorcycle shop is acetone. It makes handle grip and urethane slippery and then evaporates like it was never there.
Fellas, I need to plunge cut some 1/4" wide ventilation slots in a vintage stereo receiver cabinet I'm making out of 1/2" walnut. I've made the template and am using my plunge router for the first time. I can use either a downcut spiral bit and route from the top face of the cabinet. Or I can use an upcut spiral bit and route from the bottom side of the cabinet. In each case I assume the cut on the top will be the cleanest with no tearout. Which method would you choose?
If I downcut, how deep could I plunge a 1/4" downcut spiral bit for the first pass without chips clogging up the bit?
If I downcut, how deep could I plunge a 1/4" downcut spiral bit for the first pass without chips clogging up the bit?
ez-duzit
Well-known member
D--I would cut from the top using a straight-flute bit. Try a cut on scrap, first, to determine best depth and bit.
fartymarty
Well-known member
I'm not that experienced as a wood worker so I might go at it more cautiously than those that really know stuff. At one end of each slot I'd drill a centered 1/16" hole then carefully follow drill using a 1/4 inch Forstner bit from each side to prevent tear out. Then using an up-cut router bit from the back side starting in the pre-drilled hole I'd route out the slots.
Full disclosure: Then when I had tear out anyway despite my cautious approach, I'd use a round over bit along the slot to hide or remove the tear out and claim it provides laminar flow to the cooling air and increases efficiency blah blah blah BS BS BS.
Full disclosure: Then when I had tear out anyway despite my cautious approach, I'd use a round over bit along the slot to hide or remove the tear out and claim it provides laminar flow to the cooling air and increases efficiency blah blah blah BS BS BS.
My preference would be to use a down cut spiral from the face with a backer like MDF or a upcut spiral from the back with a backer like MDF. And if it’s only 1/4” thick material that should be no issue in one pass or at most two passes. Just use a decent dust extractor to remove the waste and go for it.
Thanks. I decided to use a down spiral bit and made 4 shallow plunge passes. I'm pretty happy with the result. (no tearout)
txlonghorn1989
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Dave,
That looks great! Is that just some extra wide walnut? That doesn't look jointed. Nice!
Tx
That looks great! Is that just some extra wide walnut? That doesn't look jointed. Nice!
Tx
Thanks! It is jointed. Approx. 8" + 5". I tried the match the grain pattern as best I could and I staggered the side joints from the top joints.
67carl
Well-known member
After the 4th and final application of danish oil has completely dried, I have to say this is the exact look and feel I wanted. It feels warm... you can feel the wood. It's not plasticky, but smooth in a way that you can feel the grain/pores. I was contemplating a protective layer of Arm R Seal satin but now, not so sure. 
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Carl, that walnut and the finish is perfect. Unless you are making a coffee table where poly may be a good, durable finish, I much prefer the oil finishes. Great piece. Love the miter feathers(splines) too.
67carl
Well-known member
Thanks! The poplar splines have something of a meaning. My first foray into woodworking was building a spiral staircase steps stool, using a friends shop, tools, help and knowledge. He also had a poplar slab that we cut thin, 2 inch high strips from. He soaked them in his pool, then they were glued and clamped together in a curved form. Think of laminated bentwood furniture. Those were used for the horizontal supports. I had some scrap so I cut a cross section to use as the keys. If you look close you'll see they are several layers.
I'm making the box as a thank you to him, along with a few tools he needs. Going in the box are some dowel pin locators. I'm going to make a holder for those out of some rift sawn oak flooring I have laying around.
It's waiting on finish. I have sample poplar I want to test before taking on this one. Blotchy poplar would ****. We also have a small, bronze pineapple that will go on top of the pole (after it gets cut down a bit).
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Try a good sanding sealer on that poplar. It should cut down on blotchiness and even out the finish. Great work you’re doing.
Rick
Rick
67carl
Well-known member
Thanks Rick!
That's the plan. Originally I was going to use a pre-stain conditioner, but read clear shellac works. Before I built the walnut box I built a test one from scrap pine, so I could make my big mistakes on that first. And did I ever! I didn't put a finish on the pine box, but am doing so now. I took some zinsser sanding sealer, cut it down to 1# with DNA, and brushed on several applications. I went over it lightly with a white scotchbrite pad. Next is a walnut gel stain. Wipe on, wait a few minutes, wipe off. See what I see and act accordingly. Not the same as poplar, but it's invaluable experience I'm gaining. I do have 2 poplar column pieces I turned on the lathe that I'll experiment with next.
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
carl: Nice boxes. I built a mahogany table and gave it a finish similar to Danish oil. I did top it off with two coats of Arm-R-Seal. It probably made the finish more durable but it had minimal effect on the look or feel of the table top.
HenryAZ
MEMBER EMERITUS
I love the your Danish oil finish. I would leave it alone, personally, and occasionally refresh the finish with another 2-3 coats on top, after a very light wipe down first.
Since I am forced to walk with a cane, I bought a couple of heartwood hickory canes from Canemasters, and finished them myself with Danish (the Tried and True brand, which is polymerized linseed oil). The finish is hardy, but wonderful to feel. It is also easy to keep clean, which becomes a concern with something you have your hand around all the time.
67carl
Well-known member
Thanks! I agree, if this was something that was going to see wear, I'd need to put a protective topcoat on it. Did you use satin? I'd love to see a picture of it. I haven't worked with mahogany yet but am looking forward to it.
Appreciate it! I have the Tried and True danish oil on my shopping list and am looking forward to trying it. It gets a lot of positive reviews, and some negative ones (those seem like they don't follow the very specific instructions on how to apply it).
I can relate to using a cane and having that in your hand all the time. I had a femoral neck fracture a few years ago and now have a plate and several large lag bolts in me. I went from no walking for a few months, to a walker for a time then to a cane. I'm lucky that I don't have to use that now, but I know having hickory would be much better than metal and plastic.
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
carl: Yes I did use Arm-R-Seal satin. I posted about the table on this thread back in September posts numbers 7035, 7036 and 7038. The first coats were of Tried & True Varnish Oil. It's similar to their Danish Oil but it has natural pine resins added. I've use it on several projects and have always been happy with the results.
67carl
Well-known member
That looks really nice! I do like that the wood has depth and shimmer (chatoyance, I've heard) without being plastic. Renews my interest in Arm-R-Seal satin.
I was eyeing some Tzalam at Woodcraft today. Never heard of it before but I liked the look. Did a little research at home, but not a whole lot out there, especially when it comes to finishing. It goes by other names, like Mexican walnut, and I read it looks and finishes similar to Koa. I think if I were to pick some up I'd use the same process you did for the table on it.
67carl
Well-known member
Well, it turns out clear shellac followed by walnut gel stain in pine didn't work out. I wiped the stain on, let it sit for 3 minutes and wiped it off. Just looks like I dragged it through the dirt. I imagine I'd have to apply it like a glaze and not wipe it off all the way. Who knows. I only did it to the bottom, so once it dries I'll sand it off. Not sure what finish I'll try next, but its going on the back burner for now.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
You might give that a light sanding 320 or so and hit it with another coat of the gel. Heck, it’s on the bottom, you might find it worked ok.
Guys, for the fun of it I've made a cribbage board out of some scrap rosewood, maple and oak. My challenge is to come up some integrated storage of the pegs on the bottom of the board. Here are some ideas I like. My question is how would you created a 3" diameter recess about 1/8" deep. I know there are Forstner bits up to 3" but they're really spendy. Router jigs usually don't make circles this small and most of them require a thru hole to pivot around which is unacceptable. Brainstorm ideas would be appreciated. I'm not worried about the deeper recess for the pegs. TIA.
