Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

[56vette461]

Hi guys,
Its been a really long time since I posted here but I ran across a very unusual corner clamp or corner vise yesterday so I brought it home.

6 inches across the top and 4 inches down
It has a quick release function and now that I’ve cleaned and oiled it, it runs smoothly except that there seems to be no provision to tighten the front jaw once it is slid up snug to the workpiece. The front handle certainly seems like it should rotate to tighten things up but it doesn’t rotate at all.

I put an arrow into one of the pics to show the ratchet release pin. I bet there was originally some kind of handle attached to this pin. See the little hole near the end?

Have any of you guys ever seen or heard of this?

Maybe my vise is just broken.

There are no maker marks on it except for a small “no. 800” stamped into the nose of the front handle.

I also posted in the main vise thread where I am the most active here on GJ. Here is a link.

The VISES of Garage Journal

va: Holy ****!! I should dig mine out and dust it off. It only fetched a $5 premium from me.

www.garagejournal.com

One of the many uses was for the set up and preparation and cutting of door hinges and planning the door to finish width for the jamb. When mounted on a 2x6 topped saw horse the vice provided a steady rest for the work. Usually the carpenter would install a set of ell shaped hardwood inserts that clamped onto the door skin to prevent damage. The insets were usually made of birch hardwood. The door would be on edge on the floor with the top or bottom edge held in the vice jaws. In the days before power routers hinge insets were cut with chisels.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Thanks for the input!

That would make sense for the metric vs imperial. So I won't be able to make a centered 3/8 Tenon style sash with this bit set, but could do an offset 3/8 tenon? I'm having a hard time thinking about how that would work. Seems I would have to cut 3/8 on the shallower side of the tenon, which would interfere with the moulding/rabbeting bit.

On a slightly different note, do you have any recommendations on sources I can do some more reading/learning about millwork and stuff like this? This is definitely not going to be the last project like this, and I am not too bright on some of this stuff, as you can tell.

It is hard to get your mind around interconnected parts that require a fair amount of precision. The intricacies are enough to throw you off. There should be plenty of resources online. One thing I would add to my previous recommendation about set-up blocks is to use backer blocks when you are routing the profiles. They help limit tear out.

 

[seber]

When I worked as a carpenter we had one of these for general use on the job site. Just a wood vise clamped to a saw horse. I never used one for a door but I suppose that might be a way to go. We just held the door between our legs to work on them.

 

[jar944]

On a slightly different note, do you have any recommendations on sources I can do some more reading/learning about millwork and stuff like this? This is definitely not going to be the last project like this, and I am not too bright on some of this stuff, as you can tell.

What sort of millwork are you looking for information about? Then what sort of tooling do you have / plan to have. If you can get bu with just sectional drawings there are a few different options still in print (William a Radford, old house measured drawings) is good.



Ouy of print but possibly better is Clarence Martin's details of building construction


Then there are the process books (to include George Ellis's fantastic modern practical joinery from 1905)



If you meant more trim carpentry go to contractor talk and the finish carpentry forum. Read everything Justin Huisenga posted. The forum is basically dead but the content is still there. Alternatively just watch insider carpentry on YouTube, Spencer picked up a lot of that from Justin.

 

[HenryAZ]

What sort of millwork are you looking for information about?

The old Morgan Millwork catalog is also a good resource.

 

[fartymarty]

This is definitely not going to be the last project like this, and I am not too bright on some of this stuff, as you can tell.

Don't sell yourself short, you are way out ahead of me, and probably many others here that worry more about their online rep than I do mine.

Good for you and keep working at it.

 

[Woody1320]

Well, finished both sets of deck stairs. It took just shy of three weeks from initial purchase of lumber to completion. It was a tough project, but I learned a ton along the way (and had some fun). The first set (with both handrails) taught me a ton. And I made adjustments for the second set. I also used a ton of tools in my arsenal, and they worked flawlessly. Saved a big hunk of change by doing it myself, which is doubly satisfying.

 

[HenryAZ]

What sort of millwork are you looking for information about?

From times past, a picture of a one-off project I made for a home show at the DC Convention Center. On the right side of the picture is a bowed, triple hung window made of white ash. All three sash bypass each other. The glass is flat. We did not get any orders for that particular window, but we did get quite a few builder orders for (non-bowed) triple hung units.

 

[56vette461]

I actually was successful at assembling a IKEA shelving unit for my bride. It came with instructions that were good and all the required parts were included. I think I'll go buy a lottery ticket. See if the good luck holds.

 

[bdbecker]

I posted this in the deals thread, but also figured this group might be interested... Lost Art Press is running a sale right now. The Anarchist series is included on the sale at a nice discount.

Our First-in-15-Years Sale: August 7-31, 2022

Due to a number of crazy business swings caused by the pandemic, paper shortages and labor problems, we are reducing the price of 13 of our books by 40 percent until the end of August 2022. These are not slow-selling books we are trying to offload. The sale includes all of our “anarchist” series...

lostartpress.com

 

[ez-duzit]

WEST epoxy laminated 1/16+" thick x 5" wide teak trim for a new head sink counter in my boat. Bend radius 6-5/8". Bending jig laminated from mostly 3/4" plywood using Titebond and staples.

 

[HenryAZ]

WEST epoxy laminated 1/16+" thick x 5" wide teak trim for a new head sink counter in my boat. Bend radius 6-5/8". Bending jig laminated from mostly 3/4" plywood using Titebond and staples.

That reminds me of my experience bending helical staircase handrails. We would build a half drum, the radius being that of the rail/staircase, and the length being the floor-to-floor height. The drum consisted of plywood pieces cut to the radius, then slats screwed to the plywood forms lengthwise, leaving room between the slats for clamps. Then then rail was laminated from one corner to the opposite corner, across the drum. Afterwards, band sawing to size and profile working on the shaper. It has to be bent across the correct diagonal, to make it either a right-hand or left-hand helical rail.

 

[turbowoodworker]

EZ, great job on that bending jig. I’ve seen that done over and over in Finewoodworking mag but never seen it done “in the wild”. I’ve always figured you know what you’re doing. Now there’s no doubt about. Great job. Would love to see some pics out of the jig and finished project. Rick

 

[ez-duzit]

t--thank you.

Certainly I will post some progress photos if anyone cares to see them.

 

[PugetDude]

t--thank you.

Certainly I will post some progress photos if anyone cares to see them.

Inquiring minds need to know…

 

[ez-duzit]

Fabricated and Formica'd the top and bottom of the sink counter assembly; cutout the sink hole. Then epoxied some glue blocks for attaching the teak edging. Carefully removed the teak edging from the bending form, surfaced its edges and sanded the excess epoxy.

 

[ez-duzit]

Because of work I only had time to shape the glue blocks and the top of the edge trim, and epoxy that to the counter top. There are no fasteners--only glue, which takes hours to cure. So the process cannot be rushed. The assembly will later be scribed in place, so the trim has been left long. The glue blocks were also left untrimmed (inside the sink cutout) to retain shape while gluing.

 

[ez-duzit]

After work today I fitted and glued up the bottom. I know. Pretty boring stuff.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Not boring. I’m loving it, step by step.

 

[ez-duzit]

t--thank you.

Just for perspective, here is the boat this is going in: a 1983 President 43' sportfish.

 

[RickP]

After work today I fitted and glued up the bottom. I know. Pretty boring stuff.

I'm really liking the photos of each step. Way beyond my skill level, but I've worked with West System enough to understand how you're fabricating it. But it looks like that beautiful curved teak will be hidden inside the cabinet under the sink?

 

[ez-duzit]

R--thank you. The assembly shown (it is upside down in the last photo) will have a plain china bowl installed, and will sit on top of a lower cabinet which has a smaller footprint. So the entire teak edging will be exposed.

 

[ez-duzit]

Shaped the bottom corner of the edging and bored the faucet hole. After scribing in place this is what it will look like. The blue tape marks the sink orientation, as it is not precisely round. Single handle faucet from Grohe.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Gotta love teak. Thanks for the pics.
oil or typical marine spar for
finish?

 

[ez-duzit]

The teak will get satin varnish.

Here is a photo looking outboard at the area in which the sink/counter will be mounted. At the top you see the existing "medicine cabinet". Below this you are looking at the inside of the hull. To the right, you can see where the old sink/counter/cabinet has been removed. At the very bottom, to the left, was a platform on which the marine head (toilet) had been mounted. This was badly delaminated due to the presence of water from leaking plumbing, so will be replaced with a new platform.

The black hose on the right is the sink drain overboard through a bronze sea **** (valve). The black hose on the left is a water tank deck fill.

 

[RickP]

R--thank you. The assembly shown (it is upside down in the last photo) will have a plain china bowl installed, and will sit on top of a lower cabinet which has a smaller footprint. So the entire teak edging will be exposed.

Gotcha -- now it makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.

Here is a photo looking outboard at the area in which the sink/counter will be mounted. At the top you see the existing "medicine cabinet". Below this you are looking at the inside of the hull. To the right, you can see where the old sink/counter/cabinet has been removed. At the very bottom, to the left, was a platform on which the marine head (toilet) had been mounted. This was badly delaminated due to the presence of water from leaking plumbing, so will be replaced with a new platform.

Isn't it amazing how much can be fit into such a small space on a boat? No wonder you're so good at custom cabinetry.

That curved teak looks really good -- it should be amazing once it's installed with the cabinet.

 

[ez-duzit]

R--thank you.

After work today I removed the old counter support and installed (3) new cleats against which the new counter and cabinet will mount. Letting the epoxy glue cure overnight before making the pattern for the cabinet face.

 

[ez-duzit]

Next I made a pattern for the outboard cabinet face by hot-gluing door skin strips against the recently installed cleats. This allowed me to fabricate the 1/2" Baltic birch cabinet face in the shop. Making an allowance for the 1/4" x 1/2" solid teak edge banding, I cutout the door opening and made the door from this cutout piece.

Then the edge banding was epoxy-glued using 18-gauge brads to hold it in place.

Note: this cabinet face needs to be in place before the sink counter can be scribed and installed. The door in that face will serve as counter space when in the horizontal (open) position, as the sink "counter" is only large enough to mount the sink, faucet and soap dispenser.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Working in a boat and in a shop, different locations must pose interesting problems. I sometimes find myself running up and down stairs, to and from the shop retaking measurements or trimming, etc. Nice to see how you do it and do it smart.
Rick

 

[ez-duzit]

t--thank you.

Today I trimmed the edge banding. This involved planing with a low angle block plane. Then block sanding flush with 60-grit. Also fitted the door to the opening and Formica'd one side of the door and ran out of Formica.

 

[Woody1320]

I love watching projects like this come together. It's as entertaining as it is informative.

 

[HenryAZ]

Today I trimmed the edge banding. This involved planing with a low angle block plane. Then block sanding flush with 60-grit.

I used to use a carbide 1" flush trimming router bit. It had a ball bearing on the end to control the depth of cut, leaving the edge banding about 1/32" proud for final sanding. The only caveat is grain direction. If you are going the "wrong" way, making several plunge cuts ahead keeps the grain from tearing out.

 

[ez-duzit]

Formica'd the outboard cabinet panel and the other side of the door. The Formica does not run completely across the panel as that part will be hidden inside the back of the sink cabinet (and I was able to use an offcut). Using power plane, roughing plane and belt sander I relieved the backside bottom of the panel where it has to fit close to the hull. Further fitting will likely be necessary at the boat.

Trimmed the top of the door for hinge allowance and cut its ventilation slots by raising the table saw blade up into it. The protective film on the gloss Formica makes the cuts look ragged. This film won't be removed until final installation.

The Grohe soap dispenser came in, so I fitted that to the sink/counter assembly.

 

[RickP]

The Grohe soap dispenser came in, so I fitted that to the sink/counter assembly.

That cabinet is looking good. The team around the sink turned out really nice.

Those compound curves seem difficult to scribe perfectly against the hull.
WIll you caulk or install a small piece of trim over any small gaps at the edge?

 

[ez-duzit]

That cabinet is looking good. The team around the sink turned out really nice.

Those compound curves seem difficult to scribe perfectly against the hull.
WIll you caulk or install a small piece of trim over any small gaps at the edge?

Thank you. There will be other pieces added after that panel is installed.

 

[ez-duzit]

Work this week prevented me from making progress until today--got a little done. The existing upper cabinet has some twist in it; this became apparent when I did the dry fit of the lower panel. So I packed out the angled cleat on the right to be coplanar with the cleat on the left; just set a wedge in thickened epoxy and taped it to keep it from sliding while the epoxy cured. The positions of these cleats had been determined by simply extending a line from the upper cabinet face.

Installed a cleat to support the top of the lower panel. This is screwed and epoxied to the bottom of the upper cabinet.

Also did a rough sanding on the inner part of the hull. And repaired the aft bulkhead using epoxy filler so it will be ready to paint prior to installing the panel, as it would be virtually impossible to paint after installation.

 

[ez-duzit]

No woodworking, but I got the back of the panel and the inside of the hull (shown) painted after work today. With that out of the way I can install the panel.

 

[ez-duzit]

Before work today I got the lower panel installed using 3M 5200 adhesive. Takes awhile to cure but is permanent.

 

[RickP]

On man, whenever I use that 5200 adhesive, it always ends up as a ****** mess all over my tools, hands, and the hull. It even seems to end up worse if I wear gloves. Your's actually looks pretty good!

 

[ez-duzit]

On man, whenever I use that 5200 adhesive, it always ends up as a ****** mess all over my tools, hands, and the hull. It even seems to end up worse if I wear gloves. Your's actually looks pretty good!

Thanks. One of the difficulties when working with 5200 is that it really is too rnny--it sags badly. So there is a fine line when it comes to how much to apply. You don't want any voids, but the squeeze-out must be dealt with immediately. This is done with a putty knife, or similar device, and bits of paper towel. Though I didn't do it here, it is often helpful to mask the surfaces adjacent to the joint to minimize contamination (the Formica still has its protective film in place). The extra work is offset by excellent bonding characteristics.

Because the panel was pre-Formica'd, I could only install a few fasteners (primarily to locate the panel) where they would not show when the rest of the components have been installed. So I used a couple clamps to help hold the glue joints together.