The Vintage Craftsman GP Motor Thread
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FrankLee
Well-known member
Pictures help a lot.
The "M 3 8" is the date code. I'm not positive on that early syntax, but it could be December '38.
There could be several causes of a no start; bad cord/plug, bad base switch, bad centrifugal switch, bad or tripped thermal switch, bad capacitor, broken centrifugal springs, broken internal wire or burned out windings.
I can't see the base switch, but if it's there, it's likely the bakelite toggle style. Those seem to go bad often. Check continuity between the switch terminals.
I've had bad plugs on the end of the original cords. Check continuity between the blades on the plug and their ends inside the base.
The thermal switch looks to be extended out more than I would expect. Firmly push it in, it may have tripped.
Please update your profile with your location.
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Cruzan80
Well-known member
Not sure why it didn't post...
So the second one has an input HP rating of 1/12, which is far below the craftsman motor. Better ways of setting up a reducer than the one shown. Not sure why they chose to do that.
As said above, motor repairs are generally in one of two categories. Fixable, like a switch, capacitor, wiring issues, etc. and Unfixable (not worth it) like burned/broken windings.
Is the CM motor the one giving you trouble, or the reducer? What is it doing (or not doing) when plugged in and turned on? Do you have a basic multimeter and know how to use it?
So the second one has an input HP rating of 1/12, which is far below the craftsman motor. Better ways of setting up a reducer than the one shown. Not sure why they chose to do that.
As said above, motor repairs are generally in one of two categories. Fixable, like a switch, capacitor, wiring issues, etc. and Unfixable (not worth it) like burned/broken windings.
Is the CM motor the one giving you trouble, or the reducer? What is it doing (or not doing) when plugged in and turned on? Do you have a basic multimeter and know how to use it?
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Cruzan80
Well-known member
I would check if any points show continuity to ground. If so, the windings are shorting to the case (bad). The windings (wires/posts) should have continuity between two different sets of points. If they don't show a link, possibly bad windings. Checking continuity of the switch and the power cord is also a good idea. All of this can get you started on the right direction.
micromind
Well-known member
If the motor doesn't do anything when powered up, it's one of 2 things;
1) The windings are burnt up. In this case, it's not economical to rewind a small motor like this one.
2) If it has an overload, it is tripped. Usually it's a red button. To reset it, push the red button......hard......way hard. If it resets, it'll click, you'll hear it and most likely feel it.
1) The windings are burnt up. In this case, it's not economical to rewind a small motor like this one.
2) If it has an overload, it is tripped. Usually it's a red button. To reset it, push the red button......hard......way hard. If it resets, it'll click, you'll hear it and most likely feel it.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
That assumes the power cord and switch are working, and it was wired correctly by the PO...
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Congrats! Now, the next step would be figuring out why it likes Rev but not For. Is the switch built in to the base, or is external?
It pokes through a hole. It's replaceable. I'm not sure how to wire it due to the rats nest of wires in there. Not sure of the type to replace it with either.
FrankLee
Well-known member
I think you need an ON-ON switch. Specs are usually imprinted on switches.
Can you post a photo of the terminals on the bottom of the switch?
Just curious... are the switches positioned horizontally or vertically on the base?
My swag is that this is your motor in the '39 catalog.
Can you post a photo of the terminals on the bottom of the switch?
Just curious... are the switches positioned horizontally or vertically on the base?
My swag is that this is your motor in the '39 catalog.
I think you need an ON-ON switch. Specs are usually imprinted on switches.
Can you post a photo of the terminals on the bottom of the switch?
Just curious... are the switches positioned horizontally or vertically on the base?
My swag is that this is your motor in the '39 catalog.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Wow, yes that is a rats nest. And fairly obvious someone has been in there before. I see the Rev is hooked up to the capacitor (silver box in last pic), but don't see where the Forward (Left in pic, correct?) connects. This may explain why it only works in one direction. The other hole you see in the top sounds like it should have the On/Off switch.
RTM
Well-known member
In Rev mode, does it actually run in the correct direction? I don’t know any reason to run a bandsaw backwards, so maybe the rewiring mess is to make it run forward using the forward / reverse switch as the only switch.
jd5000
Well-known member
I have a simple toggle On-Off switch on the craftsman motor to my Drill press. Was wondering if a toggle replacement switch exists with Forward - Off - Reverse that I could replace mine with. Would be nice if I could add reverse to the dp easily.
FrankLee
Well-known member
I don't know... there may be a single simple ON-OFF-ON toggle switch that would work, but the more common F/R switch is a drum switch.
FS: Craftsman 80/100/150 Drill Press Parts & More
I've got lots of King-Seeley and Emerson Craftsman drill press parts. Craftsman 80, 100, 150; 12-1/4", 13-1/2", 15-1/2". Lots of Craftsman 115.6962 motor parts. Some parts shown are for table saws/band saws/jointers/grinders flanges. If you don't see it here, ask. I do have a couple cast...
www.garagejournal.com
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Hey Jeff, this thread led me to buying a second 150 while in Indiana this summer. The first one has the sleeved motor that gave you some problems. I liked the thought of replaceable bearings so I picked up another one with this motor. Thanks to Mattblast I put the finishing touch on it today.
Hoorn
Well-known member
Thanks, I'm just following Jeff's videos. I used the Champagne Mist that he recommends, and also the Satin Espresso Brown.
Hoorn
Well-known member
@BSWS You chose wisely. To reinforce how dead on champagne mist is to power bronze, here is a Craftsman disc sander trunnion. The upper trunnion is original power bronze, the lower is champagne mist.
My own preference, I have always sprayed a satin clear coat over the champagne mist to knock down the gloss. The lower trunnion pictured has that satin clear coat over it. Craftsman never went with high gloss paint on their machines.
My own preference, I have always sprayed a satin clear coat over the champagne mist to knock down the gloss. The lower trunnion pictured has that satin clear coat over it. Craftsman never went with high gloss paint on their machines.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Gawd, do I hate those cans. You're lucky to get through a small job before they clog. Forget using them again.Thanks, I'm just following Jeff's videos. I used the Champagne Mist that he recommends, and also the Satin Espresso Brown.
Unless maybe they've changed a LOT since I last bought one.
@BSWS You chose wisely. To reinforce how dead on champagne mist is to power bronze, here is a Craftsman disc sander trunnion. The upper trunnion is original power bronze, the lower is champagne mist.
My own preference, I have always sprayed a satin clear coat over the champagne mist to knock down the gloss. The lower trunnion pictured has that satin clear coat over it. Craftsman never went with high gloss paint on their machines.
I sprayed the motor yesterday and I thought the gold looked like a satin finish but when I sprayed the cast iron head today I could see the gloss. I like your idea of the satin clear, I'm going to consider that.
BSWS, that motor came out great. Thanks to Hoorn and FrankLee, they were the ones who turned me on to the Champaign Mist. BTW, none of my local stores carry it anymore and I had to order a 6 pack case of it from HD online. A bit pricy shopping that way but it also ensures I wont run out anytime soon. Also for others looking for the Champaign Mist, there are few other colors that have similar names like Champaign bronze and something else mist but none of them are anywhere close to Champaign mist.
I guess they haven't changed. I've been wiping the tips as instructed on the cap. When I read your warning I had already used 3 cans off and on with no problems. Today I picked up one of those cans and sprayed for at least a minute, then nothing. It plugged instantly. I eventually broke the cap off of the can and saw the ****** that connects to the spray head. I tried a few conventional spray heads and found they were too small to fit. I blew some air through the tip and I guess it worked. I was able to spray again but I'm not a fan of these cans. I've never seen a conventional tip act like that.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Yep. I always wipe the tips immediately after use, but with regular tips, I also put the cap back on to keep them from drying out. Not possible with those POS tips. I. too, tried to find another tip that would fit--without any success.
What's really irritating is that those cans are what the spendy, specialized and not available locally paints come in.
MeFixSmith
New member
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- Mar 19, 2025
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Hi folks. I’m hoping someone has some info on a craftsman motor that I’m fixing. It shows two model #s 819394 and T55 BXHK-498
I was requested to outline some of my comparison information about Vintage Craftsman General Purpose Motors by a fellow GJ member. Most of this information was available on the forum prior to the 2021 forum update but has been lost or difficult to locate ever since.
I am not an electrician and my knowledge of motors in general is fairly limited, but I will endeavor to provide some relevant information here. If you are restoring a vintage piece of Craftsman powered tool equipment, chances are you will have one of these motors or a variation of one outlined here.
I welcome your comments, questions, input, and contributions to this thread so that we can all have a resource to assist others.
Craftsman sold most of their power tool equipment in the pre and post WWII eras without motors. You would buy a drill press or similar tool and mount a motor to the tool. Almost all of these tools were belt driven and required an ac motor ranging from ¼ - 2 HP depending on the tool and the needs of the user. These motors typically came in three RPM variations: 1725 RPM, 1750 RPM, and 3450 RPM.
Drill Presses and other tools used 1725/ 1750 RPM motors in 1/4HP, 1/3HP, 1/2HP, 1 HP, and 2HP; although ½ HP seems to be the most common. Table Saws, Sander, Jointers, and other tools used 3450 RPM motors in similar HP ratings. Almost all of these motors were thermally protected utilizing a Klixon Thermal protection switch incorporated into the motor housing.
Most of these motors were not wired with a power cord when purchased and it was left to the owner to wire the motor for their application. Further, most of these motors were reversible and often had dual shaft configurations.
The majority of these motors were capacitor start motors, but a few were split phase motors. Lastly, most of these motors utilized ball bearings; however, a few utilized sleeve bearings. I will try to break down these differences and explain some general design features of these motors before we start to look at the various motors themselves.
Like I said, I am not an electrician so speaking intelligently about horsepower or amperage are not in my skill set. I typically follow the recommend HP listed in the owner’s manual for the power tool I am rebuilding. Since we are talking about vintage machinery, most of the time these tools will include a motor that the previous owner (PO) affixed to the equipment. This is not a given that the PO utilized the correct motor and there are times where the PO used a non-Craftsman motor. I prefer to replace the motor in these instances with a period correct Craftsman motor.
Another thing to be aware of is that Craftsman did not make these motors. Craftsman contacted motor manufacturers to produce these motors for the Craftsman line of tools. This means that most of these motors were produced by GE, Dunlap, Emerson, Packard Electric, Sunlight Electric, Delco to name a few.
Your first starting point for vintage Craftsman powered tools and the motors is the Vintage Machinery site here:
On the Sears Craftsman page, you can find most of the user manuals and parts diagrams you need to rebuild your vintage tools (look for the publication reprints tab). There is a photo index of powered tools as well as a ton of information. One of the first things you should notice is the list of known makers. This list has links to the actual manufacturer of Craftsman power tool you are researching. Locate the model number of what you are looking for and the prefix should lead you to the manufacturer. For example, the 115.6962 motor has a prefix of 115 and was manufactured for Craftsman by the Sunlight Electrical Manufacturing Company or Packard Electric Company. This will aid in determining the age of your tool and possible date of manufacturing.
One of the largest Craftsman power tool communities here on GJ is the Classic Craftsman King Seeley Drill Press thread started by the Awesome FrankLee. In determining the age of these amazing drill presses (DP) we often look for date stamps on the motors associated with the DPs as well as the dates on the capacitors. In general, we can determine the date of manufacturing within a few years with this information along with design features known to evolve in the 4 decades these machines were made.
So you have a power tool and you need a motor, you locate the owner’s manual for your tool on Vintage Machinery and it says you need a ½ HP 1725 RPM motor or you already have a motor but you do not know what type motor you have. Do you need or have a split phase or capacitor start motor? What is the difference between the two and is one better than the other?
Split Phase vs Capacitor Start Motors
Induction motors use an electromagnetic process produced by the run windings in the stator to spin the rotor/ shaft. This rotation on most of the motors we will discuss is reversible to suit the needs of the user. Regardless, induction motors need something extra to interrupt the normal phase of the energized run windings to start the spinning of the rotor. For the motors we are discussing here, there are two methods to accomplish this. If there is no interruption in the run phase of the windings a rotor will likely just wiggle back and forth a very small amount and the motor will hum. On a capacitor start motor this normally means the capacitor is bad. On a split phase motor, this normally means there is a problem with the start phase windings (possibly a break in the winding).
A Capacitor start motor will have a capacitor attached to the motor. In the 115 series motor it is a sardine can size rectangle enclose in the base of the motor. On a 397 series motor, the capacitor may be inside the motor housing or attached to the outside of the stator band in a covered hump. There are motors with more than one capacitor, but we are not going to discuss those motors in this thread. In general terms, a capacitor start motor will start with more torque and more efficiency than a split phase motor. Further, if the capacitor is bad, you can replace it and most likely the motor will run fine.
A split phase motor interrupts the phase of the run windings by energizing a second set of windings in the stator. This second set of windings is referred to as the start phase windings. There will most likely not be a capacitor on these motors, and you should be able to see a physical difference between he two types of windings inside the stator. Regardless, if the motor refuses to start, it is likely there is a break in the start phase windings and fixing this will more than likely be difficult. For this reason, I prefer the capacitor start motor over the split phase motor.
Lastly, when you turn an induction motor on there is a centrifugal switch on the rotor that at a certain rotation speed disengages the start phase of the motor. On a capacitor start motor, this switch disconnects the capacitor. On a split phase motor this switch cuts power to the start phase windings. If you have a motor that will start but then starts to smoke, it is likely the centrifugal switch failing to cut power to the capacitor or start phase windings. When you turn off the motor, as it spins down you should hear a single click. That is the centrifugal switch returning to the start position. If you do not hear this click, you may a problem. I have taken these switches apart to clean, but I have had some bad experiences with switches that worked fine before I disassembled them and later failed to operate correctly. Now I don’t really mess with them and choose to leave them intact during my cleaning process.
Bearings- Ball bearings and Sleeve Bearings
Ball bearings come in an insane number of sizes, types, and variations for an equally insane number of applications. Before we deep dive into ball bearings, what type of ball bearings do you need for your motor? If you have located your owner’s manual on Vintage Machinery and you look at the parts diagram you may see a part number associated with the ball bearing. Something like Part No. 908502 Ball Bearing – New Departure. Well this is some help, but it will take a bit more to locate and order a replacement ball bearing for your motor. So, some intelligent people on Vintage Machinery built a Craftsman Replacement Ball Bearing List for us all to use. Here is the link:
Ball bearings for these motors are typically single row, deep groove, shielded (one side) ball bearings. Some will have extended races, and some will have metric measurements but require a very specific 5/8” inner diameter. There are shielded, sealed and open versions of most of the bearings.
Shielded and Open Bearings
Shielded bearings have a metal shield covering the balls on one side and a double shielded bearing will have a metal shielded on both sides of the bearing. These are pictures of a New Departure 8502 Radial/Deep Groove Ball Bearing One Side Single Seal and One Side Open. This is the actual bearing that is used in the 115 motor and is Craftsman Part No. 908502. Note that typically an open sided ball bearing will have a felt or wool washer inside the motor that will protect the open side.
In the first pic notice the nomenclature stamped into the shield “ND 8502 MADE IN USA”. Often these bearing companies are no longer in business; however, you can still find new/ old stock of these bearings on ebay or you can find comparable bearings from other manufacturers.
Sealed Ball Bearings
Very similar to shielded bearings, sealed bearings use a synthetic material to seal the bearing. Plastics and other materials are normally used and are often black, red, green or blue in color. Sealed ball bearings are typically sealed on both sides and the nomenclature is stamped into the seal or on the edge of the race. In the picture above you can see this is an 88503 bearing. There is no manufacturer name on the bearing, and these are most likely made in china. This is a replacement bearing for the New Departure 88503 felt seal bearing used on Delta grinders. The original New Departure bearing was a one side shielded felt seal bearing. Also note this bearing is an extended race bearing. The race of a bearing is the metal wall on the outside and inside the bore of the bearing. On this bearing the extended race is the inner race, and this ensures a larger coverage of the rotor shaft.
So why are there shielded and sealed bearings? Well one difference is the tolerance the bearing has inside. Depending on application, a ball bearing is made with more or less tolerance to balance speed, use and friction. Another difference is friction itself. Typically, a sealed bearing will generate more friction and produce more heat. Over time this can shorten the life of the bearing but ensure a contaminate free interior. Again, there are millions of uses for ball bearings and most likely an equal number of bearing types. For motors and most other vintage tools, I prefer shielded bearings, but I have used sealed bearings in these applications with no ill effects. I am not a fan of the open ball bearing and when I replace an OEM bearing, I try to do so with a double shielded bearing.
Lastly, the biggest difference in shielded and sealed bearings is more than likely, the price. Sealed bearings are the most common and are almost always cheaper than shielded and even open bearings. For replacement bearings, if you locate new/ old stock on ebay you can pay about $40.00 for a new departure bearing but the same bearing from china may cost $4.00. I recommend you buy bearings from Accurate bearings here:
Bearing Supplier Leader In USA & International | Same-Day Shipping
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You will need measurements for the bearing, and you can use this chart to figure out what you need.
If you are ordering bearings from an Asia manufacturer, Japanese manufacturers are higher quality than almost all the Chinese manufacturers. In the end, bearings are an extremely important component in your tool or motor and ensures a level of accuracy and smooth operation. If you plan on opening up a motor or tool to clean/ paint it, then go ahead and take the time to replace the bearings with quality bearings. This is a fairly simple and cheap thing you can do to tune up that tool.
Sleeve Bearings
Sleeve Bearings are simple a wool or felt wick stuffed into a cavity on the end frames of a motor. The wool or felt is lubricated with oil and there is a thin metal shield between the wick and the rotor shaft.
In this picture you can make out the thin metal shield that is the bore for the rotor shaft. behind the shield you can make out the felt wick.
In this pic you can see a rubber cap in the bottom of the pic below the data plate. on a sleeve bearing motor there will be two of these rubber caps, one on each end frame to lubricate each sleeve bearing. I am sure there is some chart out there that tells you how often you should lubricate the sleeve bearings, but I just do it every year and that seems to work for me.
You can imagine that if you over lube the sleeve bearings and the motor is place vertically, it will more than likely leak oil. The mess in general and the less efficient nature of a sleeve bearing makes this my least desirable type of motor to use. It seems to me that the sleeve bearings and split phase motors both seem to be cost cutting methods in motor design; however, like I said, I am not an electrician.
Now let’s talk Craftsman motors.
115.6962 Motor
These are probably the most common and iconic vintage Craftsman motors. There are several motors numbers in this family that are essentially the same motor but in different HPs and RPMs. They are capacitor start ball bearing motors and although there are several similar models, I will talk specifically about the 115.6962 Motor. Most Craftsman general purpose motors were never equipped with on/ off switches; however, it is not uncommon to find an on/off switch in one side of the base and the power cord projecting from the other side of the base.
This motor is 32.5 pounds and is 12 ½” long from shaft ends. The housing is 8 5/8” long and 6 ¼” in diameter. The dual rotor shafts are non-keyed ½” shafts; however, the bearings engage the rotor shaft at a wider part and require a 15mm bore.
In this pic you can see the two end frames, they are made of cast iron as is the base. The terminal cover, switch shield, air cone, and condenser shield are all made of sheet steel. The two felt retainer discs are also in the pic as well as the rotor.
This is the centrifugal switch on the rotor of a 115 motor
This is the stator of a 115 motor. Notice the Klixon thermal protection switch (red button) and the lead wires running to the terminal board and switch assembly for the centrifugal switch.
The lead wires in many of these motors are very stiff and brittle. They have a fabric heat shielding on them that is probably asbestos or similar dangerous material. Exercise care when working with these wires to not break them, if they break close to the windings, it will be very hard to replace them. If you do need to replace a lead wire or extend a broken one, you need to use a high heat lead wire like 16-gauge stranded silicone insulated wire.
This is a pic of the terminal end frame. note the back side of the Klixon, terminal board, and switch assembly for the centrifugal switch in the center. When the motor is at rest or spinning slowly the centrifugal switch is extended on the rotor shaft and is in contact with this switch allowing power to the capacitor (or in a split phase motor, to the start phase windings). Once the rotor spins to a specific speed, the fingers on the centrifugal switch spread and compress the switch causing it to disengage the switch assembly.
This pic is a outside looking in of the terminal board. Notice the two lead wires visible, these can be reversed to reverse the direction of the motor rotation.
In this pic you can see (from left to right) the end frame, open side of the ball bearing, spring washer, fiber gasket, end cap, felt seal, and felt seal cover. One of the cool design features of these 115 motors is that you can access the bearing without opening the motor.
This is another pic of a terminal end frame; however, notice the metal rectangle on the right side. This is the capacitor on these old 115 motors. These are commonly referred to as sardine can capacitors and are no longer produced. If your capacitor is bad, you will need to replace it with a similar spec round capacitor. This is one of the drawbacks of these motors, there is very little room in the base of the motor and a round capacitor will not fit into the base without some modification. A search for Hoorn here on the GJ should provide some pics for how he fabricated a spacer for a motor to fit a round capacitor.
This pic is the data stamped on one of these sardine can capacitors. Should you need to replace the capacitor make sure you get a comparable one with similar rated MFD and voltage. Also, note the date of manufacture 5-2-50. Chances are this motor was purchased with the drill press it was affixed to and could help in determining the age of the drill press.
One of the largest benefits to the 115 motor is that it cleans up nicely. Just cleaning and repainting are fairly simple but the stator band on these motors was removable and often the original is too far gone.
The original stator band was a polished steel band with satin 1/8” lines on it. In the pic above you can see some of the original finish that was left under the data plate. I prefer to use a piece of sheet aluminum cut to the same size.
Next, I polish the aluminum
Then I apply 1/8” vinyl masking and scuff the exposed aluminum with a scotch-brite pad.
The finished product is fairly close to the original.
With new bearings, a fresh coat of paint and a newly fabricated stator band, this motor looks and runs great.
That covers this update, I will expand on other motors in the coming days.
Thanks for the interest.
Does anyone know where to find a replacement centrifugal switch. Thanks for any help or info.
The Vintage Craftsman GP Motor Thread
Attachments
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Hello and welcome. As indicated up thread those centrifugal switches can bar a bit tricky to get right in the replacement of them. Have you checked around locally to see if you can find another motor locally?
I finally have my hands on the sander I've wanted since the day I saw Hoorn's pictures of his. I got it stripped down and got the motor apart. The motor is a 115.19661, with a date of 12/58. I'm not finding many mentions of this motor after many searches. It's a sleeved motor but it doesn't have the oil holes. The original manual I got with the sander says "This motor was lubricated at the factory for life under normal operating conditions". I'll bet that doesn't mean 67 years. I don't see any way to add any lubrication while I have it apart. I'm hoping one of you guys might have a suggestion about this. If nothing else I might at least get a little grease on the sleeves with a finger before I reassemble it.
I also got a little Craftsman Handbook titled "How to get the Most from Your Motor", printed in 1954. It has a lot of information about the different styles of motors used on Craftsman tools. It does mention that the sleeved motors with oil cups should ne installed horizontally, unlike the ones installed on drill presses.
I also got a little Craftsman Handbook titled "How to get the Most from Your Motor", printed in 1954. It has a lot of information about the different styles of motors used on Craftsman tools. It does mention that the sleeved motors with oil cups should ne installed horizontally, unlike the ones installed on drill presses.
Nutria
Well-known member
Beautiful. But if you can't find oil holes, then I'd use some 20 wt oil instead of grease. Maybe try to let it soak into the bronze sleeves and then wipe off the rest.
Hoorn
Well-known member
I'm wondering if that uncommon motor is a plus or a minus. I'd be happier if I could replace some bearings but I'll keep my fingers crossed that these sleeves really last a lifetime.
These aren't actually bronze sleeves like you'd expect. They look like stainless. If you look closely they have 2 diagonal slots on the sealing area. I don't know if that's for cooling or if there was grease stored in there.
Hoorn
Well-known member
I currently have only one left, but have had several sleeved motors. All Century motors, all around 100 years old and they all ran flawless. Those sleeves will likely outlive you and I, whether stainless or bronze.
As for grease, you must use oil with sleeved bearings. The cutouts are part of an oil reservoir and should accept a decent amount of oil.
As for grease, you must use oil with sleeved bearings. The cutouts are part of an oil reservoir and should accept a decent amount of oil.
Thanks for what sounds like good news. I'll get some oil in there and keep my fingers crossed.
Thanks to Hoorn I finally have the sander I really want. No thanks to Hoorn I recently came across a thread were he and a few others are showing their amazing Delta sanders that look like they're a few notches above this little CM. I'm going to stick with this one, it has a lot more power than the Shopsmith 12" disc I've been using.
This one was in pretty good shape so I just cleaned it up and added the same switch I recently put on my drill press. Now it's time to get it dirty.
The dark brown on the end caps and motor base is original. I only cleaned and waxed it.
This one was in pretty good shape so I just cleaned it up and added the same switch I recently put on my drill press. Now it's time to get it dirty.
The dark brown on the end caps and motor base is original. I only cleaned and waxed it.