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I have the earlier (larger) Miller 211 and am very pleased with its performance and capability. I too use .030 for most of my work with anything over 1/8" thick. The nice thing is I can use the auto feed setting with the .030 which gets it right enough for most general welding. I have found...

It took me 29 years to finally get to drive my Mustang for the first time this year.

Nice. Very nice.

That thing is so ridiculous and cool. Now we need to see a video of it operating and crushing things. :bounce:

I never thought I'd have a lot of use for an oscillating tool until I bought one on a whim when I saw it on sale. Dam good addition to any tool arsenal and not overly expensive either.

I took my Mustang out for a run today up to the shop that painted it. He has made good progress on the Caddy since I last saw it. Thought you might like to see it.

Just picture a couple of three hundred pounders having bedroom calisthenics on the poor thing.

I started using Amsoil a few years ago in my motorcycles mainly because as a preferred customer I could buy it for less than the semi synthetic oil at the motorcycle shops. I'm now running in everything except my wife's car which gets dealer provided service under warranty. I like that I can...

I'd suggest a slitting blade in a Dremel tool or using an oscilating tool to cut it.

I've never been one to refuse a good giveaway. Count me in.

With care and a good straight edge it is possible to get smooth accurate cuts with a circular saw. The one thing no one has mentioned yet is that you need to be sure to use a high quality fine tooth blade. If you use the typical circular saw blade, you will never get smooth chip free cuts.

A lot of people (myself included most likely) would have written that car off as too rusted to be worth saving. Great job :thumbup:

Check the discussion in this thread. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=343345

Mines been doing just fine for 19 years. It has a few small cracks, but the rebar and wire keeps it from moving. Most of the cracks appeared early on and were filled in to keep the water and salt out. They have not changed in several years. My garage was built on an undisturbed base with good...

I can concur that the four link Mustang rear setups are know for binding. They are most prone to it with stiffer bushings in the arms. The common wisdom is to run hard bushing only in the lower arms and keep the soft rubber ones in the uppers to allow them to flex. In addition to bind, too stiff...

Sorry, didn't intend to instill fear in you. :scared: A few tips. Figure out the routing of the wires on the truck, mount the components that can be moved in the best possible locations to facilitate tidy wire runs. Start laying the wiring in place to build up the harnesses. Use small zip ties...

No sympathy from me, I like wiring. I despise messes like that though. I'm very particular about neat tidy wire harnesses for any wiring I do so I'll be judging your work critically on this one. ;)

I had the same conversation back when I was looking for a lift and being in the same parking configuration situation. I chose to go with the BendPak HD9 since it had a wider spacing on the columns that the first lift I looked at. The columns are the same width as the door and lined up with it...

Geez, I'm envious of how nice you can make plumbing look when you have a full frame to route and hang things from. I had a much more challenging job getting clean routing under my Mustang. Still, I know it takes a lot of care and thought to get a result like that.

Fun to make to (mostly the emptying part).