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he didnt say where he is. could be commonwealth edison in Il or Con-ed in NY.....

#6 x 1" coarse drywall screws should go fine in the center of a 2x2 without splitting and no predrilling

which edison? where are you located? are you sure you understood them correctly? their disconnecting and reconnecting might be the service drop. I know some pocos will let a licensed electrican do a temp drop connection with split bolts and then the poco comes back and crimps it, but I cant...

the way you are saying to do it is one way to do it that would be correct if it was being done with romex -but we're talking cord and you cant hard wire stuff with cord. This is a temporary install supplied with a cord so why would you hard wire any of it? Just doesnt make sense. can you show...

first, the shop light fixtures dont have a normal size knockout so the duplex connector is out. second, the duplex connector is for romex not SJ cord. this conversation is getting beyond idiotic. im done.

if you remove the cord with the male plug to replace it with a cord to feed the next light, where does the light get power from? Each light (except the last) would need 2 cords going in and out. The cord youre removing (if these are std shop lights) is going to use a heyco strain relief in a...

so hacking up the lights and hard wiring them together with cord is ok, but plugging them together with some outlet adapters and extension cords (which all this stuff is actually made for) is ghetto? :headscrat

that only works for fixtures that are made to be hard wired and have knockouts. Wont work for standard shop light fixtures that come with the cord. Just use triple outlet adapters and extension cords and plug it all together. No need to wire anything up.

Yep great stuff. Almost too bad we dont see more of it ouside industrial environments. A really cool product is made by a couple manufacturers. Its a cable / cord that is listed as TC-ER and STOW, so you can use it as tray cable but also as cord, not to mention you can bury it in the ground. I...

there's tray cable which is listed for direct burial, but I highly doubt the OP ended up with that....

i like this. the outlet will briefly go out and come back on when switched (theres a way around that but not worth the hassle) but otherwise is on all the time. The relays and a box are probably cheaper than the material to run another wire to the garage....

there's always a way :) Note to all: this is for discussion and theory only. dont do it.

install a 14-30 receptacle. that way your installation is code. Then use a 14-30 male to 14-50 female adapter to plug your RV in

you dont need #8 for the ground, #10 is fine.

buddy of mine has a 30hp motor for sale, (i have to get the make/model) its in good condition, i gave the shaft a spin and it felt fine. Whats it worth? I figured it would make a good rotary phase converter...

unless its a big stationary welder that cant be moved its portable. in the OP's case, he is using an extension cord to a welding cart that is obviously portable. for example: an air compressor thats bolted to the floor, or sitting in one place, hard piped to the building and never moves is...

more made up code..... none of this applies to the OP's application. Voltage doesnt matter, if utilization equipment (appliance, welder, machine, whatever) is fixed in place and draws more than 50% of the circuit ampacity then it has to be on a dedicated circuit. Portable equipment has no such...

i dont understand why people keep pulling cable through conduit. Conduit is for individual wires. Cable is for using without conduit.

that doesnt matter. you can even buy wye adapters. its up to the operator to not run both at once.

get rid of one female. Replace the box with a FS box or at a minimum weatherproof box. Use a stainless cover. Replace the romex clamp with a proper cord grip. A couple inches back from the receptacle strip off a 1/2" section of the insulation on the ground wire. Use a crimp sleeve (copper color...