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Back to the floor. I decided to go with Free-Flow tiles right inside the door. The thing is, with free flow, you can see what's underneath them, and I had a hodgepodge of self leveling concrete and dyed concrete, and some parts were ground... So, back with the grinder, and I lightly ground...

When it came time to put the arms on, I noticed that they were not even close to level. :headscrat I must have really screwed up by leveling the posts? :( So, I loosened my anchors and started to shim the posts... Something doesn't look right at all, and to get the arms level, I'm shimming...

28 day cure is somewhere around 5100 psi, but it's technically an underlayment, and not meant for surface wear. Epoxy would probably work fine on it, but after putting some RaceDeck down around my workbench and abusing it for a while, I decided to just finish the floor with it. But, back to...

I used 9 bags of "self leveling" concrete. It's called Flo-Top I believe, made by Euclid. I'm not sure what bonding adhesive is, but it looks and smells like Elmer's Glue to me. Brushed on, with a 45 minute cure time, then my hour long task of mixing and pouring out the concrete. I knew it...

Once I got them up, and roughly where I wanted them, I realized that the right post would be nearly 3/8th of a inch low. I could have shimmed it, but the fact that the floor was less than stellar has bugged me ever since the first puddles showed me that flatwork is not my specialty. So, I...

Someone got a little rambunctious with a forklift at one point, as they burned their tires into one of the posts. But nothing major, and a quick call to Bendpak got a can of touch up paint on it's way. Setting up the posts was a little daunting, so I enlisted the help of my terrified wife to...

I had the idea to wait until everything was in and perfect before I posted, but it just seems to be one snag after another getting all of my ducks in order. I'll start out by revisiting my Bendpak delivery. Forks on the backhoe made it easy to pull out of the trailer, then I used my famous...

Hitachi grinder from Lowes - $109 7" Dewalt cup wheel from Lowes - $80? Dust Buddie and Shop vac bags from Amazon - $115

You can move your ground wire down into the screw holes, then use the lug for your neutral. Just make sure that your garage panel is not bonded.

Interesting. How are seams done? Overlapped? Definitely not a one person job.

I was all over the place with mine as well, and finally decided on Racedeck. If I was better at concrete work, I would have went with dyed and polished. I tried that first, but eh, flatwork is not my specialty.

I welded an extension made from a piece of jigsaw blade onto my switch.

SECTION 3 - PRODUCT COMPOSITION Chemical Name CAS-No. Weight % Crystalline Silica (Quartz)/ Silica Sand 14808-60-7 40.0 - 70.0 Calcium Carbonate (Limestone) 1317-65-3 15.0 - 40.0 Portland cement 65997-15-1...

I personally only use Quickrete branded anything for dumping in a post hole. I recently used a self leveling topping called Flo-Top made by Euclid and it gave me the anticipated results. I still used a cup grinder and surface ground the entire floor first, along with a bonding agent. Still...

If it's cheaper, it won't hurt anything - just a little harder to work with. Unless you make pigtails, you'll have to fight the wire a little on your outlets is all.

1 - You can do that, but your acid stain will not be uniform. That area will always look like a patch unless you cover it with an epoxy or paint. 2 - You can use a 7" grinder with a cup grinding wheel to easily take off the bumps. But, just like a patch, if you get down into the aggregate...

Sounds like a lot of work, and a lot of RR ties. My grandfather built 2 garages and the floor was done hand mixing in a box, so for the most part, concrete is 1-3" thick. It lasted him his lifetime, and while there are cracks here and there, and some of the really thin places have deteriorated...

They're plastic, and hot glass will burn into them just like weld splatter. They are tough, but not for every application. I had to do a few welds over mine when I put the legs on my workbench, and just put a couple pieces of cardboard over the tiles.

It's probably more of a mobility issue than anything. Plus, the 13 drawer boxes are on the narrow side, and two together would increase the odds of a tipover, unless the floor was perfectly smooth. I have one with both the cabinet on one side, and the drawers on the other, and it can be a...

I went 30" with mine, which means I'll probably be working on a 8-10" ledge most of the time lol. Anything from 26-32 would probably be user friendly for general projects.