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I would love to find a 2C Reed. I like the wide pipe jaws of the Reeds and Wiltons which I think would be good for working on hydraulic cylinders. I have a meatball 204R I keep on a receiver hitch for field repairs. Looking back, I probably should have picked a lighter vise but I don't have to...

I have Ruglyde to help remove and install tires on tractors and farm equipment. I recently bought Seal 723 after borrowing some to help air up a new 24.5-32 tubeless. I was out in the field with a good 1" gap but I only had 1/4 air hose and a big bead blast. The 723 stuff worked great and tire...

I'm assuming it is. I can't believe SK discontinued that ratchet though. That one is liked by many.

I've seen people use like a coupling nut with a long enough bolt and spacers to act like a reverse press. Unscrew the bolt against the pin and push it out. Once it moves a tiny amount, it'll come right out.

I have a Gooloo 4000 and it starts anything unless a tractor or truck looses prime. Since I bought it, I can't remember where I have put my jumper cables. It's started everything from a Polaris Ranger and 755 cubic inch diesel pulling tractor.

I think it was a 4055 Deere with 4wd. It had a spun bearing so the engine had to be pulled but I was trying to see how bad the damage was first.

It wouldn't pick up this JD 619 before I installed the head. I had to pick up one end and crab walk it. Luckily I only needed to move it a couple of feet.

Local hydraulic shops might not be much more than Hercules. Unfortunately, I don't have that option around home. I either have to order kits through the OEM dealer ($$$), Air Hydro ($$) or pickup from Hercules who's the main supplier of seals to Air Hydro. I would rather save money and cut out...

I measure and order seals through Hercules Sealing Products. You can search for seals by size and priced right.

Do you have an air hammer with a flat face hammer attachment? There's a chance the nut is seized and an air hammer might help jar it loose. I've come across some cylinders that have a snap ring you have to access through the pressure port to remove the gland once the nut is off. My 2 ton HF...

The other day I used my 3/8 Snap-on stubby flex that's about 6" in length. I grabbed my torque wrench to finish tightening and to my surprise I got up to around 55 ft lbs with not a lot of effort.

Most likely. I think SK's white label products are just rebranded Duratek. If i remember correctly, green label can be found on their website and white label is Amazon (but some green label is on Amazon too).

I have had two from Ebay on each of the Bridgeports I've owned and have no complaints. I've check the accuracy with a dial indicator and it's spot on. I've use the hole pattern option and it's also spot on. The manual will most likely be terrible. I'm pretty sure it was Chinese and then they...

I lost my Astro 52SL last September. I think I remember using it while working on the combine. Yesterday my dad found it. It still turned on after 11 months and charges. I used to today and was impressed how tough it is to last 11 months in the elements.

I have Wright Grip 2.0 in metric and will eventually get a set of SAE. I would consider them to be normal length as well. The length falls between my SK standard (which is shorter than average) and my long pattern ones.

I have two 14N chucks and they take K3 keys but they're old keys, not the ones made in China now. I have a couple of non-Super chuck 1/2" Jacob's (no 32 or 33 maybe?) and they take the same key.

I either use a degree wheel when assembling or a marks on a pulley/damper if I have verified it's accurate.

On a high performance in-line 6 cylinder engine I set the valves at TDC. I start at 0 degrees then move 120 degrees and adjust the next cylinder in the firing order. So it's 0 (cylinder 1), 120 (5), 240 (3), 0 (6), 120 (2), and finally 240 (4).

I have the compact 3/8 and with M18 batteries, it doesn't save a lot of room. If I were to do it again, I would have bought the M12 stubby or the M18 mid-torque. I still use it often, but I either want the smaller M12 batteries for tight spots or a little more torque. I ended up buying a stubby...

All my breaker bars I use are internal heads and US made. The only external one I have owned has been a Chinese 3/4" bar and bent it the first time I used it with no cheater pipe. My Wright 3/4 is internal and smaller diameter but has never not returned to being straight. The difference was...