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As a whole, my HF experience has been awesome. It's a great way to "build up" to buying a high-end tool, like when I needed hole saw bits for a small project, but wasn't going to use them ever again -- $10 later, I've got holes in a 1x6 to hold sockets, and I didn't spend a small fortune. HF is...

I recognize that it's not on your list, but based on your initial post I would throw the Tekton hat into the ring. Their full polish 8-22mm set can be had for right around $40, they're made in Taiwan and seem to be a pretty healthy quality based on my use. You can definitely tell what kind of...

I have a large number of Kobalt tools because my dad bought me my first set of sockets when I got a car (so I'd stop borrowing his), though I didn't grow up in a mechanically-oriented household. My initial judgement was that they probably would need replaced within a year or two, boy was I...

Count me in! KCToolCo was good enough that I got my work to order bits we need (laptop repair) from them, and everybody's ecstatic with not having to use awful pot-metal bits anymore.

If I'm in a place where I need a ratchet right here and now, it depends on the time of day and how desperately I need it. I'm within walking distance of a Home Depot, but that's my last resort -- the cabinet salespeople drive me insane. Harbor Freight isn't far from me, Pittsburgh Pro ratchets...

I feel like fire extinguishers could have their own damn thread... There's a ton of sizes, chemistry differences, brands, etc... I've got a small general-use fire extinguisher in my garage for emergencies, but I'd love to get something larger, you never know when a stray spark from grinding will...

I love the HF Daytona as well, I have the long reach low profile and it's been a dream. Most everything I have is lowered, and it's a fantastic fit for getting to an appropriate lifting point. It's definitely heavy, but I think it's well worth it as a decent quality jack for garage use (as...

I've recently started to care (because of GJ!) about my safety working with power tools. I generally don't wear gloves because of fear of a glove dragging my hand into a grinder, but I always make sure the shield is positioned between myself and the grinding wheel, and I've got some halfway...

That's fine, I should've made it stand out more. I bought the plastic one, I mainly wanted something compact with a high working load rating, because if you figure I'm ~250lbs, me + a power tool + some material could easily be over the limit on some of the lesser stepstools with a similar...

I got this one from Home Depot that has a similar weight rating, folds up smaller, and doesn't flex under my ~250lb body. All that AND it was cheaper. The HF one I got made me uneasy, it flexed when I got on it. The Gorilla one seemed pretty good, we'll see as time goes on but at least initially...

I have one of these, I haven't used it on anything super high torque but it seems halfway decent when I want ratcheting and extending action for a low price. https://www.harborfreight.com/t-handle-ratcheting-screwdriver-61727.html

I'm not a welder or anything, but do you know the depth? You could either put masking tape on the drill bit, or maybe use an angle grinder to shave the welds down as close as possible and then smack the piece off of the tub, since the grinder would weaken the welded area(s) so that it would...

So is the main difference from the Pittsburgh Pro breaker bar the comfort grip handle? I'd like to pick up a breaker bar with a grip, but I don't know if I $50 want one -- if I'm gonna spend $50 on a breaker bar I think I could do better. edit: I didn't see that there's a Pittsburgh Pro comfort...

I recently picked up some Super Lube (grease) from HF, with the intent of lubricating some ratchets I have in an attempt to make them as smooth as possible. Dumb question, but is there a right/wrong way to pack a ratchet head with grease?

I've been happy as a clam with both of my floor jacks (one Pittsburgh low profile, one Daytona long reach low profile), my flex head 1/2" drive ratchet, and my impact sockets. They're pretty much the go-to of the HF world it seems, they're highly reviewed by most everyone who uses them.

In an ideal world with tons of disposable income, I'd buy my toolboxes in a nice deep indigo blue with silver trim, to match the autocross car. My toolboxes were bought at a good price though, so I have black with silver trim, though now I think I'd opt to stick with that scheme because I like...

Well the plan is to move to stainless braided line, but hopefully the whole affair can just be a bolt on/bolt off/bleed solution instead of having to make new lines/ends. I did some more searching though, and it seems Snap-On/Blackhawk is the way to go, not that much more expensive for a...

Could you guys elaborate a bit on the flare nut wrenches? I've heard nothing positive about any brands other than Snap-On and Blackhawk/Proto, and I've got a brake line job coming up on my '04 Jetta and my '10 Mazda, and would love to not have to shell out the coin for the more expensive stuff.

I think this more or less sums up what we're trying to get at here. A poor quality tool may cost you ten times its value in what steps it causes you to need to take in order to perform a repair, where a higher quality tool will do the job correctly, time and time again. As an anecdotal example...

That's good to know, thanks! Is there anything I should be aware of in terms of battery storage, or should I just use them like any other tool and replace them as necessary?