Re: BEFORE & AFTER....A Tool Polisher's Haven
I’ve sanded all parts, but my wheel polish just isn’t cutting it on the stainless.
What kind of buffer are you using? Stainless takes either 1. allot more prep prior to polishing, or 2. A powerful buffer, aggressive wheels, and starting with an aggressive compound. Its difficult to get sufficient heat buildup in a stainless part for proper polishing with a an average bench grinder. I also use a higher RPM buffer ( 3600 vs 1800 rpm.)
Have had some parts that i use my curing lamps for auto paint to preheat the part if the size is two great. if the part is cold all of your compound will stay on the part and not in your wheel.
My supplier offered burlap sisal wheels that i used with their black emery that i would start with. I polished allot of stainless hydraulic hard-line for low riders in the late 90's. The fittings and the line were in good enough shape to just compound and buff without sanding or the use of setup wheels.
My supplier went out of business when Detroit stopped putting chrome steel bumpers on almost everything and stopped polishing as a side line. I will still polish my own things, and have been working off a huge supply of old inventory for supplies.
My plater was the plant manager for a small company that chromed all the bumpers for the ford superduty. His boss would allow him to chrome custom parts on the side for cash. Those were the days.
After i did the polishing and he plated an entire banshee frame for me for $80.00. Best part was he would run parts the day i dropped them off and have them back to me the next day.
In the late 90's when the custom auto world was booming and chrome was cool most shops here were three to four months for plating. I could turn parts around in a a few days.
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2018-01-15 16.07.43 by don long, on Flickr
2018-01-15 16.08.23 by don long, on Flickr
IMG_2466 by don long, on Flickr
IMG_2465 by don long, on Flickr
Dayum!!
