Craftsman Drill Press

[pikapp]

The table was tougher. The base came right off after the third attempt with the 12lb convincer. Long C Craftsman motor plate is stamped J3 46.
What do you think? Looks like pre 1950 to me. See anything else to date it earlier, to 1946?

 

[FrankLee]

My comments below...

Located an 103.23120 model 80 that I'm going back and forth on refurbishing or parting out. Thanks to Bob and Naples, FL. It belonged to his uncle Oscar who had it in a barn. After Oscar passed away Bob used the press to drill out the barrels of custom ball point pens he makes by hand out of various materials. I bought a snazzy new pen he made out of a bottlebrush tree. Thanks Bob, worth twice the price.
Frank I saw your chart on the model number by year for the 100's and 150's, did I miss one for the 80's?
No. At the time I created that chart, I did not have any experience with the 13-1/2" machines.

The head casting was glued to the post. Guess the cast locks had been overtightened and were stuck in their bores. Are those bolts OEM?
I can't really tell. If the bolt heads have a V-slot around the flats, then yes, likely oe. However, I believe early bolt heads did not have that slot. That machine looks repainted, so I suspect that the paint "glued" the locks to the casting and the head to the column.

I pried the locks back with a bar and it wiggled off after lots of twisting. Extra holes in the top of the head are for a home made looking MSA. You can see the post cap was flattened so the MSA bearing could sit flat.
Got a 2x3'chip in the top edge. Anyone repair anything that big and what did you use?Bondo, epoxy putty? ReadyRod for a feed stop rod and the wrong chuck, works OK but wrong.

The table was tougher. The base came right off after the third attempt with the 12lb convincer. Long C Craftsman motor plate is stamped J3 46.
What do you think? Looks like pre 1950 to me. See anything else to date it earlier, to 1946?
Yes, definitely pre-1950, so technically, it's a 100. Referring to it as an 80 is probably more appropriate and clear.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4325791

There is not much documentation from immediate post-war... no Power Tool catalogs available until 1948 and the earliest drill press owners manual is from 1946.

 

[rlmartinson]

I blame you guys for my recent purchase! Wednesday, I picked up a running 100 series for $100 that seems to be in pretty good shape. I have been doing a bit of research on here, but I believe this is what I have:
Base tag is 103.23130 = Craftsman 100 from 1948-1955
Slotted head screw = pre 1951
Motor model 115 6960, date D1 48 = 1948
3rd set of pulleys for speed reduction.

Unique things so far:
Extra toggle switch on base (front n center)
Extra hole(s) about 1" from slotted screw on both sides

Missing so far:
Depth gage/feed stop parts
Thumb screw to retain chrome handle (return spring)
Collar on chuck
Set screws for other handles?

For now, I just plan to get it cleaned up and fix/replace what needs done and maybe later on I can tear it down and do a thorough rebuild.
To do:
Oil spindle = done and its less sticky
Oil shafts = done to aid future disassembly
Oil motor
Install grounded cord

Thanks for the entertainment!
Ryan

 

[FrankLee]

I blame you guys for my recent purchase! Wednesday, I picked up a running 100 series for $100 that seems to be in pretty good shape. I have been doing a bit of research on here, but I believe this is what I have:
Base tag is 103.23130 = Craftsman 100 from 1948-1955
Slotted head screw = pre 1951
Motor model 115 6960, date D1 48 = 1948
3rd set of pulleys for speed reduction.

Unique things so far:
Extra toggle switch on base (front n center)
Extra hole(s) about 1" from slotted screw on both sides

Missing so far:
Depth gage/feed stop parts
Thumb screw to retain chrome handle (return spring)
Collar on chuck
Set screws for other handles?

For now, I just plan to get it cleaned up and fix/replace what needs done and maybe later on I can tear it down and do a thorough rebuild.
To do:
Oil spindle = done and its less sticky
Oil shafts = done to aid future disassembly
Oil motor
Install grounded cord

Thanks for the entertainment!
Ryan

Welcome to the club! Very nice! Especially with the MSA!

I appreciate your research and agree with your findings.

I suspect a previous owner installed a homemade belt cover and the missing thrust nut and feed stop assembly suggests that a mortising attachment was used at one time. The missing parts frequently show up on ebay.

That's an interesting custom switch set-up. I've never seen that before.

 

[11b30b4]

rlmartinson

The missing screws can all be found at an Ace Hardware, although for the pinion and quill tension retention screws you will need to make a dog point on the end of the screws. If you have a lathe that’s easy but if not, you can do a good enough job on a belt sander. Most of us here can give you specifics of the size and thread for just about any of the screws. The threaded collar that screws on the thrust collar is not necessary for operation, I believe it is just a thread protector. The Jacobs chuck on that machine was before they added the safety collar so the thrust collar really only served as a stop for the bottom quill bearing. If you end up needing to replace the Jacobs Chuck and you want one with the safety collar, you will need Jacobs Chuck 14451 Heavy Duty Plain Bearing Taper Mounted Chuck, 0.5" Maximum Capacity, 2" Sleeve Diameter, 3-45/64" Close Length. Jacobs sells them or you can get them off Amazon from Jacobs store for about $99.00. And yes they come with a key.

As Frank said a lot of the parts come up on ebay and most of the gen 1-4 Craftsman Emerson machines have exchangeable parts. The feed stop and feed stop collar were both available a week ago, but they have since sold. I think they were about 50 bucks for both with lock nuts. They should pop up again. The other option is if you come across another good deal to grab it and part out what you don’t need. IMO, 100 was a good deal on that machine especially with the slow speed pulley. Original slow speed pulleys sell for ~250 down here in GA so that alone would make the 100 investment worth it.

 

[rlmartinson]

Thanks Frank and 11b30b4. Its good to know I didn't waste my money and makes it easier to justify to my boss. ;-)

Thru some more research on here, it looks like my missing thumb screw is a 1/4-20 and I think I have a SS SHCS that will make a great temporary replacement. I will keep an eye out for the missing parts and maybe some spares. The previous owner did say he will let me know if anything turns up.

I am attaching a couple pictures. The first is showing the unique toggle switch location, and the 2nd pic is a spare chuck that was thrown in. (bent Feed Handle for scale). The knurled chuck easily threads off, but I can't get it to adjust and need to get some oil on it. There is some writing on it, but needs to be cleaned up more. Anybody recognize the chuck?
Thanks again,
Ryan

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks Frank and 11b30b4. Its good to know I didn't waste my money and makes it easier to justify to my boss. ;-)

Thru some more research on here, it looks like my missing thumb screw is a 1/4-20 and I think I have a SS SHCS that will make a great temporary replacement. I will keep an eye out for the missing parts and maybe some spares. The previous owner did say he will let me know if anything turns up.

I am attaching a couple pictures. The first is showing the unique toggle switch location, and the 2nd pic is a spare chuck that was thrown in. (bent Feed Handle for scale). The knurled chuck easily threads off, but I can't get it to adjust and need to get some oil on it. There is some writing on it, but needs to be cleaned up more. Anybody recognize the chuck?
Thanks again,
Ryan

If you're going to make a temporary thumb screw, make sure the end of the screw fits into the slot on the tension knob. It should also have a cone point at the tip.

What are your plans for that switch? Keep or eliminate? It's not a bad custom modification. If keeping, an extension cord, cut and looped through the base with the switch in line, would make it easier to remove and reinstall the motor if needed.

The chuck looks like a keyless chuck from a brace; two or three jaw. I believe that smooth portion at the top is threaded on and can be removed to clean.



Also, virtually all early machines have broken or fubar spindle pulley retaining screws. This is very likely on your machine, especially because it is missing the feed stop bracket. Check this post:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4880745

 

[FrankLee]

Craftsman #6604 Grinder

This afternoon, I picked up this 103.6604 belt-drive grinder. It needs refurbing, but everything is there, and then some. The left guard was in a drawer in the stand. It came with a Craftsman drill bit sharpening jig, a Dunlap wheel dresser and many related and unrelated bits and pieces.

The motor is a very nice Craftsman ball bearing, split phase, 1/3 hp, 1750 rpm model 115.19751, date code 2 60. This model last appeared in the '59-'60 catalog [F].​

​

1/18/2021

I dismantled and cleaned the grinder this morning. Obviously, there's not much to it.

The 2" pulley is bent, but I have a spare. I was considering replacing the original bearings, but they are a very oddball size, so they will be reused. They are Nice 6971-3; OD 1-3/8", ID 9/16". An equivalent bearing is #1622.

I also lost the red paint on the label even with gentle cleaning.

​

1/20/2021

The grinder is complete. Waiting on motor bearings.

​

 

[oldsfan442]

Great find. Couple questions though. How do you find all these things? Do you have notifications set when new stuff gets posted? How many drill presses, grinders, or other craftsman items do you have? Your collection has to be massive. Keep up the good work, I have really enjoyed following this thread.

Bryan

 

[FrankLee]

Great find. Couple questions though. How do you find all these things? Do you have notifications set when new stuff gets posted? How many drill presses, grinders, or other craftsman items do you have? Your collection has to be massive. Keep up the good work, I have really enjoyed following this thread.

Bryan

I search craigslist and FBMP on a daily basis. I regularly check estatesales.net and garage sale listings on CL. GJ member alinc001 has sent me some great leads. I do have craigslist notifications set up, but only for drill presses.

I've had to cast my net much wider to find machines at decent prices. I search all of lower Michigan and Northern Ohio.

Acting quickly is key and being retired helps.

Sometimes when listings are active for a while, sellers may be motivated to lower their prices. My recent mohawk drill press and the grinder above are good examples.


I'm not a collector. When I complete a refurb, I sell it. When I buy to part-out, I list parts quickly. It's been very slow lately. I have only the grinder above in progress; nothing else in the pipeline.
My current keeper bench machines include:

• one Craftsman 15-1/2" drill press
• one 2"x42" Craftsman belt/disk sander
• one 10" Craftsman table saw bought new ~1990
• one Craftsman pre-block grinder
• one B&D grinder bought new many years ago
• one used Hitachi miter saw

I do still have quite a few drill press parts.

 

[39 LaSalle]

Hello all,

First post, but I've been a member for some while now. Finally have something worth posting about.

I'm now a certified member of the Craftsman 100 club. Picked up this floor model 103.24820 with a Craftsman 115 6962 motor. It is pretty crusty but for $75 I guess I can't complain too much. Came with the Vari-slo attachment (broken), and an angle vise. Motor is dated March of 55, top panel is riveted, and the table doesn't tilt. I'm guessing it's a 54 or 55 model.

Anyway, I started tearing it down Sunday. Tons of mud dauber nests up in the head (even inside the chuck), and apparently a snake was living in there at some point judging from the section of skin he left behind.

I had a devil of a time getting the quill and spindle out, which I won't talk about. The pully bearings seem fine to me, but I'm a bit hinkey about the quill bearings so I'm going to replace those.

My question right now (and I'm sure there'll be many more) is about the Jacobs 633C chuck. It took a hell of a lot of effort to dismantle the chuck from the spindle. Ended up using a lot of Liquid Wrench, heat, and a small drift punch to get the threaded collar off, but then I couldn't get the chuck off the taper. I won't go into what all I did, but I finally got it to pop out. The good or bad thing depending on how you look at it, is I never found a reason why it was on there so tight. No rust or adhesives or anything gumming up the works.

My issue is, I feel like I'm missing something on there. Here is a photo of the parts that came off my spindle. All of the parts are there just the way I found them other than I cleaned them up. In no way does that threaded collar attach to my chuck that I can tell. The collar is a separate piece. I was given to understand that the threaded collar is to help keep the chuck from spinning off the taper, but if it's not attached there isn't any way to keep it from doing that.

So am I missing some parts here?

 

[FrankLee]

Hello all,

First post, but I've been a member for some while now. Finally have something worth posting about.

I'm now a certified member of the Craftsman 100 club. Picked up this floor model 103.24820 with a Craftsman 115 6962 motor. It is pretty crusty but for $75 I guess I can't complain too much. Came with the Vari-slo attachment (broken), and an angle vise. Motor is dated March of 55, top panel is riveted, and the table doesn't tilt. I'm guessing it's a 54 or 55 model.

Anyway, I started tearing it down Sunday. Tons of mud dauber nests up in the head (even inside the chuck), and apparently a snake was living in there at some point judging from the section of skin he left behind.

I had a devil of a time getting the quill and spindle out, which I won't talk about. The pully bearings seem fine to me, but I'm a bit hinkey about the quill bearings so I'm going to replace those.

My question right now (and I'm sure there'll be many more) is about the Jacobs 633C chuck. It took a hell of a lot of effort to dismantle the chuck from the spindle. Ended up using a lot of Liquid Wrench, heat, and a small drift punch to get the threaded collar off, but then I couldn't get the chuck off the taper. I won't go into what all I did, but I finally got it to pop out. The good or bad thing depending on how you look at it, is I never found a reason why it was on there so tight. No rust or adhesives or anything gumming up the works.

My issue is, I feel like I'm missing something on there. Here is a photo of the parts that came off my spindle. All of the parts are there just the way I found them other than I cleaned them up. In no way does that threaded collar attach to my chuck that I can tell. The collar is a separate piece. I was given to understand that the threaded collar is to help keep the chuck from spinning off the taper, but if it's not attached there isn't any way to keep it from doing that.

So am I missing some parts here?

Welcome to the club!

Model number 103.24820 first appeared in the '56 catalog and also shown in the '57 catalog. There's no '58 catalog. I believe the power bronze paint started sometime in '57.

The non-tilting table was a standard feature starting in the '56 model year. The tilting table was an optional accessory for a couple years after.

Because Craftsman drill presses were not technically equipped with motors, the date code on the motor badge is not a definitive indicator of model year.

I'm thinking your machine is a 1956 model.


Sometimes the chuck can be very difficult to remove. I once had to use an 18" pipe wrench to get one off. That snap ring on the chuck should be inside the thrust nut. I've never tried to remove the thrust nut from chucks, but I understand removing and reinstalling that snap ring can be difficult. Nice job cleaning the chuck... it cleaned up pretty good.


I'm looking forward to seeing more progress.

 

[11b30b4]

39 LaSalle, Awesome price on a 100 press with the slow speed pulley.
If I understand you correctly, you are saying the safety collar was not attached to the chuck and was only sitting above it on the spindle? If that is the case, you have a snap ring on the chuck body in your pic. That snap ring is what retains the safety collar to the chuck. Frank is absolutely correct that removing the snap ring when the safety collar is attached to the chuck is a complete pain in the ****; however, I have disassembled one and found that putting it back on is harder.

This chuck design carried on to the Emerson Craftsman machines and I disassembled the one on my 113.213780 rebuild. You may find some useful information on page one of that rebuild here:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=458819

In the end I think I placed the assembled chuck in a bench vise (with leather jaw covers to not mare up the chuck). Don’t clamp too tight. Then I laid the safety collar over the lip of the chuck body. Lastly, I placed the snap ring on top of the socket hole and used flat tip screwdrivers to spread it and force it down until I got it locked into the channel. It kept wanting to walk on me and spin, but I eventually got it on. Once its in place you should be able to hold the chuck by the safety collar and the chuck should stay attached.

So that is the method I used but I see no reason you could not sand or grind the ends of the snap ring to make the perpendicular to the center of the ring. The biggest issue I had with mine was that the ends of the snap ring were cut at angles, so the flat tips kept sliding off them. All of this while you are working in a very tight area and requires odd angles for tool to access the snap ring. Perhaps Frank or someone else has a better method? I could not get a snap ring tool into the area along side of the socket lip to remove the ring when I did that and the only thing I was able to use was flat tips.

One point of caution here, I am not sure why the PO had it detached but I recently experienced an issue where the thrust collar was not properly spaced from the bottom of the taper (due to my actions) and when I locked the safety collar to the thrust collar, the chuck was not fully seated on the taper. This will cause horrible run out. To check that everything is mating properly do this:
Assemble the chuck with the safety collar secured by the snap ring.
Use a sharpie and completely paint the taper end of the spindle.
Apply the chuck with a mallet then lock the safety collar down.
Loosen the safety collar. Does the chuck stay on the taper? Did it fall free from the taper?
Remove the chuck and look at the taper. The sharpie marker should be rubbed off where the chuck mates with the taper.

I had a devil of a time with this on my 150 press and there are some pics you may find useful in that thread on page 4 here:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=467230&page=4

I hope this helps.

 

[39 LaSalle]

Welcome to the club!

Model number 103.24820 first appeared in the '56 catalog and also shown in the '57 catalog. There's no '58 catalog. I believe the power bronze paint started sometime in '57.

The non-tilting table was a standard feature starting in the '56 model year. The tilting table was an optional accessory for a couple years after.

Because Craftsman drill presses were not technically equipped with motors, the date code on the motor badge is not a definitive indicator of model year.

I'm thinking your machine is a 1956 model.


Sometimes the chuck can be very difficult to remove. I once had to use an 18" pipe wrench to get one off. That snap ring on the chuck should be inside the thrust nut. I've never tried to remove the thrust nut from chucks, but I understand removing and reinstalling that snap ring can be difficult. Nice job cleaning the chuck... it cleaned up pretty good.


I'm looking forward to seeing more progress.

Thanks for the kind words and the clarification on the date. I knew the motor was sold separately in theory, but likely at the same time, so I deduced it shouldn't pre-date 1955. Ultimately, it doesn't matter, but I do enjoy knowing such details.

As for the chuck, I think I'm going to follow up with another post in reply to 11b30b4 on that...stay tuned.

 

[39 LaSalle]

39 LaSalle, Awesome price on a 100 press with the slow speed pulley.
If I understand you correctly, you are saying the safety collar was not attached to the chuck and was only sitting above it on the spindle? If that is the case, you have a snap ring on the chuck body in your pic. That snap ring is what retains the safety collar to the chuck. Frank is absolutely correct that removing the snap ring when the safety collar is attached to the chuck is a complete pain in the ****; however, I have disassembled one and found that putting it back on is harder.

This chuck design carried on to the Emerson Craftsman machines and I disassembled the one on my 113.213780 rebuild. You may find some useful information on page one of that rebuild here:

In the end I think I placed the assembled chuck in a bench vise (with leather jaw covers to not mare up the chuck). Don’t clamp too tight. Then I laid the safety collar over the lip of the chuck body. Lastly, I placed the snap ring on top of the socket hole and used flat tip screwdrivers to spread it and force it down until I got it locked into the channel. It kept wanting to walk on me and spin, but I eventually got it on. Once its in place you should be able to hold the chuck by the safety collar and the chuck should stay attached.

So that is the method I used but I see no reason you could not sand or grind the ends of the snap ring to make the perpendicular to the center of the ring. The biggest issue I had with mine was that the ends of the snap ring were cut at angles, so the flat tips kept sliding off them. All of this while you are working in a very tight area and requires odd angles for tool to access the snap ring. Perhaps Frank or someone else has a better method? I could not get a snap ring tool into the area along side of the socket lip to remove the ring when I did that and the only thing I was able to use was flat tips.

One point of caution here, I am not sure why the PO had it detached but I recently experienced an issue where the thrust collar was not properly spaced from the bottom of the taper (due to my actions) and when I locked the safety collar to the thrust collar, the chuck was not fully seated on the taper. This will cause horrible run out. To check that everything is mating properly do this:
Assemble the chuck with the safety collar secured by the snap ring.
Use a sharpie and completely paint the taper end of the spindle.
Apply the chuck with a mallet then lock the safety collar down.
Loosen the safety collar. Does the chuck stay on the taper? Did it fall free from the taper?
Remove the chuck and look at the taper. The sharpie marker should be rubbed off where the chuck mates with the taper.

I had a devil of a time with this on my 150 press and there are some pics you may find useful in that thread on page 4 here:
I hope this helps.

Well, it came with the Vari-slo rig, but I have since removed it and likely won't put it back on. It has a couple of broken and/or missing parts (see photos). At first, I thought it would be a great addition to have, but I think I would be happier with a slow speed pully installed. I rarely do any sort of wood working, this press would spend most of it's tenure with me doing 98% metal working so doubtful I would be changing the speed that often. Maybe at some point I can work out a trade with someone to exchange the Vari-slo parts for a slow speed pully setup or something. We'll see, I'm not in a big hurry here.

As for the chuck, I'm going to take some time later today to go through what you posted and see where that puts me. In studying mine, I see the lip where a snap ring would engage the collar. You are correct, it isn't doing anything. The problem is the snap ring that is attached to the chuck portion is too narrow to engage that lip. The collar just slightly slips over the edge of the snap ring (collar ID is roughly 1 5/32 and snap ring OD roughly 1 1/4. So I don't know if it was replaced or what, and if so, why it would have been. Effectively at this point, the snap ring and collar are basically ornamental based on what I'm reading here.

Note in the picture attached, I have indicated with a red arrow where the snap ring was before I started taking it all apart. Also see the amount of gap between the chuck and the collar. This would imply to me that maybe the chuck wasn't fully seated on the taper as you suggested? Both the female and male portions of the taper were as pristine as the day they left the factory when I finally got them separated to see what was going on. As tight as that thing was wedged on there I can't imagine why it wouldn't seat correctly, but there is the evidence of something not right. Maybe...just maybe that's why the snap ring was replaced in the first place? Whoever couldn't get the chuck seated on the taper so they separated the two to make themselves feel better about the situation?

Seems to me that I have the option of a) trying to locate a correct snap ring to replace what I have and wrestle that on there as you suggest (which I think would be a stroke of luck at best); b) find a replacement chuck that is intact; c) throw caution to the wind and seat the chuck I have as best I can on the taper, and hope that it doesn't come sailing off at some point. In theory as long as the runout isn't crazy, I'm okay with solution c) but long term, in an ideal world, I'd like everything to be as safe and original as possible.

 

[FrankLee]

......

Perhaps Frank or someone else has a better method?

......

I think I would try replacing the OE snap ring with a spiral/split ring. It may be much easier to install.

 

[FrankLee]

......

The collar just slightly slips over the edge of the snap ring (collar ID is roughly 1 5/32 and snap ring OD roughly 1 1/4.

......

Is that the id of the lip? That seems awful big like it was modified. Does it look so? I believe the threads on the thrust collar are 1-1/16 - 20. It almost sounds like the lip was removed.
I've got an earlier thrust nut and the id of the lip is 29/32".... maybe apples and oranges.
I need to dismantle a fubar 633C chuck to check some options.

 

[FrankLee]

Ok, I got the thrust nut removed from the chuck. It was actually pretty easy with these crappy Pittsburgh snap ring pliers.

The id of the lip on my thrust nut is 15/16". It just barely fits over the snap ring protrusion on the chuck body.

​

 

[11b30b4]

Well **** Frank, mine was a lot more trouble, then again, I stupidly removed the snap ring entirely and getting it out of the safety collar at the same time as I removed it from the chuck was "real fun".
Frank, I have those same crappy Pittsburgh snap ring pliers than they were not working for me on my snap ring. Glad you got it worked out and they worked for you.

39 LaSalle, are you saying that with the snap ring on the chuck you are able to slide the safety collar over the snap ring? If so, then Frank may be on to something. Either the ID of the safety collar was turned down and/or the snap ring is not the original. Without looking at one disassembled its hard to say. I believe Frank is correct that you can probably find a replacement split ring. The orginal ring should be something like this:
https://www.mcmaster.com/snap-rings/speared-ends-external-retaining-rings/

Possibly something here will work. https://www.mcmaster.com/snap-rings

So that Jacobs Chuck was made in the USA back when things were made here. Jacob’s sells that chuck with the safety collar and it comes with a new key. They run about 100 bucks, but these are now made in China. I have two of the Chicom Jacobs and they seem to be of good quality. I thought I had an issue with the one I put on my 150 until Frank figured out that the issue was the chuck not seating on the taper, hence the whole sharpie indicator process. If you decide to pursue a replacement chuck, the model number and I believe a link are in my thread on page 3.

As for the Veri-slo, Frank may have some suggestions. Frank has a link on page one for JZiggy’s slow speed pulley. He may be interested in the Veri-slo or possibly able to fabricate the replacement parts, but you would need to speak with him. Since the Veri-slo’s are made of unobtainium, you can probably sell it as is for a nice price. Personally, I would find someone to fab the broken parts and keep it. When I got my 100, I was not interested in speed adjustment but now I desire it. Which is why I ordered one of ZJiggys slow speed pulley systems.

 

[FrankLee]

Regarding the Vari-Slo... member oldironowner as started manufacturing Vari-Slo components. Not sure what the latest is.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8005319

Well **** Frank, mine was a lot more trouble, then again, I stupidly removed the snap ring entirely and getting it out of the safety collar at the same time as I removed it from the chuck was "real fun".
Frank, I have those same crappy Pittsburgh snap ring pliers than they were not working for me on my snap ring. Glad you got it worked out and they worked for you.

It took me a while to remove the snap ring from the thrust nut. I can't imagine how frustrating it would have been to remove it with the nut installed.

 

[39 LaSalle]

Is that the id of the lip? That seems awful big like it was modified. Does it look so? I believe the threads on the thrust collar are 1-1/16 - 20. It almost sounds like the lip was removed.

It might have been...hard to gauge. See attached photo where I can observe some chatter marks of some kind, but no indication anything was turned in there.

39 LaSalle, are you saying that with the snap ring on the chuck you are able to slide the safety collar over the snap ring?

That's exactly right. See attached photos. I measure out the snap ring which is on the chuck at 1 1/8". The opening if you will, of the collar measures 1 11/64" which leaves a 3/64" discrepancy which is just enough to slip the collar lip past the snap ring with no hinderance at all. Now the lip of the collar measures 11/64" across, so I think the tale to be told is right there in how it compares width wise to other examples. I'm beginning to think someone, somewhere along the line took that chuck apart and couldn't get it back together again. So they bored out the collar to clear the snap ring. Of course I find that odd because if they were skilled enough to modify that collar to where you can't tell if it's factory or not, I would think they could figure out the snap ring arrangement. I would say it's either that, or they got another collar from another source and just slipped it on there and called it a day.

 

[FrankLee]

It might have been...hard to gauge. See attached photo where I can observe some chatter marks of some kind, but no indication anything was turned in there.



That's exactly right. See attached photos. I measure out the snap ring which is on the chuck at 1 1/8". The opening if you will, of the collar measures 1 11/64" which leaves a 3/64" discrepancy which is just enough to slip the collar lip past the snap ring with no hinderance at all. Now the lip of the collar measures 11/64" across, so I think the tale to be told is right there in how it compares width wise to other examples. I'm beginning to think someone, somewhere along the line took that chuck apart and couldn't get it back together again. So they bored out the collar to clear the snap ring. Of course I find that odd because if they were skilled enough to modify that collar to where you can't tell if it's factory or not, I would think they could figure out the snap ring arrangement. I would say it's either that, or they got another collar from another source and just slipped it on there and called it a day.

That thrust nut is definitely fubar.

How’s the rest of the chuck? Jaws? Is the chuck worth fixing? Check the runout link in the first post of this thread.
Were you able to measure runout before dismantling?

 

[PureLeaf]

Regarding the Vari-Slo... member oldironowner as started manufacturing Vari-Slo components. Not sure what the latest is.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8005319




It took me a while to remove the snap ring from the thrust nut. I can't imagine how frustrating it would have been to remove it with the nut installed.

Unfortunately I've tried to contact Oldironowner twice over the past 6 something months about one of the replacement control arms he had posted pics of and never received a response. Would love to be able to buy one of them. I guess maybe he's not been checking his messages or maybe isn't selling things anymore?

 

[39 LaSalle]

That thrust nut is definitely fubar.

How’s the rest of the chuck? Jaws? Is the chuck worth fixing? Check the runout link in the first post of this thread.
Were you able to measure runout before dismantling?

The rest of the chuck seems to be fine. Jaw teeth are in pretty good shape. Just a little bit sticking at one point when opening/closing. Overall, I'm not rushing out to the garage to dump it in the trash anyway!

No, I didn't get to check runout. The quill bearings felt like gravel in them so I suspect it wouldn't have told me much anyway. I think for now I'm just going to keep an eye out for a decent replacement. It's going to be a while before I can even get it all back together in running order anyway, so I'm in no big hurry.

Today I picked up some odds and ends that were missing like a feed stop nut and a bolt for the motor support plate. Also picked up a jug of degreaser. If the weather holds out around here for a few more days, I might just be able to get the head casting cleaned up and repainted.

 

[39 LaSalle]

Frank,

Got your PM, but system won't let me respond because I haven't posted enough yet. Will resolve that shortly, but yes, I am definitely interested. Will forward details presently.

 

[39 LaSalle]

As for the Veri-slo, Frank may have some suggestions. Frank has a link on page one for JZiggy’s slow speed pulley. He may be interested in the Veri-slo or possibly able to fabricate the replacement parts, but you would need to speak with him. Since the Veri-slo’s are made of unobtainium, you can probably sell it as is for a nice price. Personally, I would find someone to fab the broken parts and keep it. When I got my 100, I was not interested in speed adjustment but now I desire it. Which is why I ordered one of ZJiggys slow speed pulley systems.

Thanks for the heads up. That would definitely be more up my alley. I'm not going to be doing so much work that I need to adjust speed on the fly. As it is, I'm really leaning towards cleaning up the Vari-slo parts and flipping them. Who knows? Maybe I can finance the rest of my project with what I make off them.

 

[39 LaSalle]

Looking at those ZJiggys pulleys, I really like the sound of that setup. Less futzy, and less to fall apart/break/need to replace.

 

[39 LaSalle]

Here are a few other pictures of my project. Like I originally indicated, it's pretty salty, but I think salvageable. The base is a mess, but I think the rest of it will clean up pretty good. As a bonus, the motor works but I'm definitely going to refurb it as well and at minimum replace the cord.

 

[39 LaSalle]

Last post tonight I promise! (was trying to get my post count up so I can PM)

Here are some more photos. Unfortunately, somewhere between it first being listed for sale, and the time it came into my possession, someone broke off the feed handles. One of those had a wood ball replacement. Looks like I'll be fabbing up new ones of those as well. One of the stud portions had broken off in the feed hub. Was able to successfully extract that today.

 

[FrankLee]

Here are a few other pictures of my project. Like I originally indicated, it's pretty salty, but I think salvageable. The base is a mess, but I think the rest of it will clean up pretty good. As a bonus, the motor works but I'm definitely going to refurb it as well and at minimum replace the cord.

Last post tonight I promise! (was trying to get my post count up so I can PM)

Here are some more photos. Unfortunately, somewhere between it first being listed for sale, and the time it came into my possession, someone broke off the feed handles. One of those had a wood ball replacement. Looks like I'll be fabbing up new ones of those as well. One of the stud portions had broken off in the feed hub. Was able to successfully extract that today.

You do have your work cut out for yourself, but yes, it is very salvageable.

Did you remove the motor pulley yet? That is often difficult because the set screw backs out and scars the motor shaft.

 

[39 LaSalle]

You do have your work cut out for yourself, but yes, it is very salvageable.

Did you remove the motor pulley yet? That is often difficult because the set screw backs out and scars the motor shaft.

No, other than spraying some contact cleaner in there, then plugging it in to see if it turns on, I haven't done anything to it. It fires right up and runs very quiet. The only thing that concerns me is when spinning the shaft by hand I can hear/feel a bit of something dragging on the tail end of it. It's almost like there's a wire or piece of cardstock paper attached to the shaft that brushes or rubs up against something in there when it spins around every revolution. It may just be the bearing so I'll shoot some oil on it as you recommend before I get too excited.

 

[FrankLee]

No, other than spraying some contact cleaner in there, then plugging it in to see if it turns on, I haven't done anything to it. It fires right up and runs very quiet. The only thing that concerns me is when spinning the shaft by hand I can hear/feel a bit of something dragging on the tail end of it. It's almost like there's a wire or piece of cardstock paper attached to the shaft that brushes or rubs up against something in there when it spins around every revolution. It may just be the bearing so I'll shoot some oil on it as you recommend before I get too excited.

Some of those minor noises may disappear once the motor is cleaned, but check this post:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7740222

 

[39 LaSalle]

Some of those minor noises may disappear once the motor is cleaned, but check this post:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7740222

Interesting...I may be in good shape then since I really don't detect any other problems other than cosmetic ones and the wires. I own a pre-war car so I don't trust old fabric covered wires.

Surprisingly I've never really cracked a motor open considering my 94 year old dad was an electrician who used to do exactly that kind of work. I just never took to the electrical stuff, I wanted to be a blacksmith or archeologist. Grew up with tons of old motors and electrical components laying around but they were just old junk to me then. Some today would be horrified at what we hauled away to the dump when they moved 35 years ago...some of it would probably be worth it's weight in gold nowadays.

 

[Bro-Dozer]

Good afternoon - well, this DP popped up in my area [the other one I was looking at fell through].

Can anyone help me with identifying it? Ask is $100 [seems heavy]. I am inspired to restore to almost new.

 

[Cruzan80]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Dunlap was the offshoot (cheaper) version of Craftsman. Depending on what year, it could be almost identical, or could use bushings instead of bearings. Looks to be the same size as a CM 80

Sent from my Phone 2 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Bro-Dozer]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

What do you think price wise? $40?

Dunlap was the offshoot (cheaper) version of Craftsman. Depending on what year, it could be almost identical, or could use bushings instead of bearings. Looks to be the same size as a CM 80

Sent from my Phone 2 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Good afternoon - well, this DP popped up in my area [the other one I was looking at fell through].

Can anyone help me with identifying it? Ask is $100 [seems heavy]. I am inspired to restore to almost new.

The first post of this thread is the TOC. There is a link to a Spotter's Guide you can use to determine which machine that is. Another link, Evolution, has more info.

What do you think price wise? $40?

The condition is the big obvious issue. It's very rusty, it's been repainted and the quill fully extended means there is an issue with the spring; either non-tensioned, best case, or broken, worst case.

Prices vary by region. Please update your profile with your geographical location.

If the motor is Craftsman or Dunlap and runs, I think $40 would be the high for me.

 

[Bro-Dozer]

Yup. $40. He wouldn't take it. Moving along...

I'm in Phoenix.

 

[PureLeaf]

Nice job walking away. Especially in Arizona, rust??? I bet theres some gorgeous hidden gems preserved from that dry weather of yours.

 

[Smokeshow69]

Nice job walking away. Especially in Arizona, rust??? I bet theres some gorgeous hidden gems preserved from that dry weather of yours.

Agreed! On rough units like that...if you buy it, buy it assuming a part out and then you wont get hosed on the value. Like Franklee said earlier, that may possibly have the bronze bushing bearings which are the less desirable.