E-tek Restorations: PROJECT THREAD

[e-tek]

E-Tek...if you did it, shame on you. You know better!!! I guessing you just staged this for the photo shoot.

BUT....for the others that don't know, never drill a piece like this in the location it's in. If it grabs, it kicks around. You're not supposed to wear glove at a drill press so if your holding it with your bare hands, you stand the chance of possibly getting a good gash out of it. Rotate the part around so it is up against the drill column. If that is not possible, run a bolt up through the table slot to act as a stop.

Just wanted to mention it before anyone gets hurt. We had a guy at work that had his thumb ripped off because of unsafe drill press practices.

Thanks "Safety Kevin"!!

You're correct - it was staged to show the 2 items I was working on. I don't (normally!) have various pieces on the press at the same time!

 

[e-tek]

Today's shop fun included finishing up the AC and tensioner brackets, brake pedal system, mounting the computer and solenoid on the firewall and the battery cable along the frame rail. Sounds easy when I type it out......
Also found 30 minutes to cut more of the rust out of the 240Z.

Check the blog for all the details!

 

[e-tek]

Well I finally got back to the shop after wasting a day dealing with rental-home issues (any day I should be in the shop is otherwise wasted!)....

Got all the belts on the 302 Ford Rod set up and aligned:

Also worked on the aftermarket power window regs but couldn't seem to get them to power up....

And spent some time routing the Vintage Air ducts:

My head started to hurt from all that scratching, so I decided to turn my attention back to some metalwork:

This weekend the 67 Cougar goes back on it's wheels so it can go to the paint shop. It's gonna be a beauty when done!

 

[e-tek]

I was going to buy a long-handled shear when I saw this handheld electric shear at the Shrine. No more carpal tunnel from the shears, no more gearing up to use the cut-off wheel - it's
like a hot knife through butter!!

I used it to cut a plate to mount the power window mechanism to the door on the 40 Ford.

A single bolt at the top through the inner door panel holds it tight.

 

[machine_punk]

Thanks O - appreciate all your input here. It's not that a swage tool is expensive, but you want to be able to remove these cables in various circumstance (like when needing replacement).

The console will be 100% custom, just not sure if it'll be a fiberglass buck, all metal, or what.

My vote is "All aluminum with rivets" ;-)

 

[machine_punk]

I was going to buy a long-handled shear when I saw this handheld electric shear at the Shrine. No more carpal tunnel from the shears, no more gearing up to use the cut-off wheel - it's
like a hot knife through butter!!

There are pretty good reviews of the Harbor Freight version of that shear, here in the US...
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-sheet-metal-shear-92148.html

Folks say that you may need to adjust position of the blades, but after that, it 'cuts like butta.'

Kev

 

[e-tek]

If you saw my thread on getting these power window mechanisms to work you may have seen this vid, but it really belongs here....plus I'm proud of my success this being my first PW install and without instructions to boot...

Also got the "It's a Snap" wiring harness started by mounting the fuse box to the firewall and routing the major spools to the various section of the vehicle:

 

[Kevin54]

I was going to buy a long-handled shear when I saw this handheld electric shear at the Shrine. No more carpal tunnel from the shears, no more gearing up to use the cut-off wheel - it's
like a hot knife through butter!!

I have a Bosch just like that. It's one of my favorites. One reason is that you can maneuver it around easily when cutting. I also have a Milwaukee shear and it leaves an 1/8" curl up through the center. Not nearly as nice as the Bosch.

 

[Omphaloskeptic]

E-Tek, I'm anxious to hear how the install of the wiring loom goes. Is it a 'universal kit' or is it specific to the rig you are working on? I own an old (62-64?) Willys PU which will need a new 'nervous system' when that phase of the rebuild effort comes due; I would like to find a kit that I can install/adapt to a 12-volt system keeping the original instrument cluster bezel and gages.

 

[e-tek]

E-Tek, I'm anxious to hear how the install of the wiring loom goes. Is it a 'universal kit' or is it specific to the rig you are working on? I own an old (62-64?) Willys PU which will need a new 'nervous system' when that phase of the rebuild effort comes due; I would like to find a kit that I can install/adapt to a 12-volt system keeping the original instrument cluster bezel and gauges.

It's a universal kit called "It's a Snap" and came with the Rod. Seems pretty good to me, though in doing some research on these kits it would seem "Painless" is the Cadillac of aftermarket harnesses and this one is a mid-line brand. Having said that, I'm not sure what else you'd need: it has a full fuse box, wires for each vehicle section (dash, interior, engine and front end and rear end). All the wires are labelled every foot with where they go. It even has a couple different clips that mate up to either a GM, Ford or Mopar steering column. This rod has a GM column, so I just had to use the male connector that came with and line up the same color wires to mate up with the functions coming from the column (lights, blinkers, horn, etc). It also has a horn relay and blinker (flasher) diodes.

The time consuming part is cutting and connection the wire ends to all the things they control: from head lights to taillights, alternator and gauges - which will take the most work for sure. I was thinking I'll cut a foot or two of the correctly labelled wires, wire the gauges on the bench and then match the pigtails together in the car.

In this case I have to match up the engine management harness with the aftermarket one:

Today I also got the passenger side window powered up and even though still in the "Mock Up" stage I like to clean up what I can as I go, including polishing the window chrome before putting it all together:

With this project though, the aftermarket harness install is just one piece of the puzzle. As I said above, it all has to be married to the 5.0L EFI harness, a somewhat complicated Vintage Air set-up, as well as power windows, power locks and electric wipers! Here's what some of that looks like today:

Wish me luck!

 

[Omphaloskeptic]

Bonne chance! Did you order meatballs with all that spaghetti? lol

 

[e-tek]

The owner of the 1967 Cougar came over today with all the suspension pieces that he has sand blasted and painted with POR15 and Chassis Black. The most exciting (OK, scariest - LOL!!) part was compressing the springs to mount them into their respective spring perches.

Also managed to get started on wiring up the gauges on the 40 Ford Rod. The owner purchased these cool "Analog-faced, full electronic" gauges, to be mounted in the original dash' gauge location:

 

[richtersrodz]

Good luck with all of that wiring, man that looks like a mess.. It's bringing back memories of my '64 Chevy. I was regularly blowing glass fuses because of overloading the panel. I used to be able to drive down the road, look down to see which fuse blew, reach down, and replace it under the dash, all without pulling over. That's when you know you've had too many electrical issues.

Hey, is that the Mrs. in that calendar?

 

[e-tek]

Hey, is that the Mrs. in that calendar?

YOU BET! I had a few done from the photoshoot - for my desk, shop, dresser....

 

[e-tek]

Here`s some of today`s wiring work (it`ll all be done to this level, so the mess above is just the start - and taken for effect!)

I `have`to go to New Orleans for work this weekend and since it`ll be cutting into my shop time I`m gonna spend tomorrow (Tuesday) in the shop,so lots of the wiring should get done!

 

[machine_punk]

E-Tech...I really like a heat gun (think 'fancy hair dryer' for the shop) for heat shrink. Less likely to overheat and singe the heat shrink. They aren't that expensive and once you have one, you'll wonder how you ever did heat shrink without one.

kev

 

[e-tek]

E-Tech...I really like a heat gun (think 'fancy hair dryer' for the shop) for heat shrink. Less likely to overheat and singe the heat shrink. They aren't that expensive and once you have one, you'll wonder how you ever did heat shrink without one.

kev

I have one - but I find the butane torch is much more direct, maybe faster, easier to handle - plus it always sits on top of the bench.

I often use the heat gun to warm the cement before I sit on it

 

[MoonRise]

E-Tech...I really like a heat gun (think 'fancy hair dryer' for the shop) for heat shrink. Less likely to overheat and singe the heat shrink. They aren't that expensive and once you have one, you'll wonder how you ever did heat shrink without one.

kev

+1

Just have to plug it in and then nice hot air. Less chance of burning/scorching the wire insulation or the heat-shrink tubing when you don't have a direct flame.

Maybe ~$10-20 or so. One of my 'better' purchases.

Not a heat-gun that goes up to 700-1000F. Those are for stripping paint or other 'high-heat' jobs. (I have that too.)

Smaller and lighter hot-air gun that goes to maybe 300-400F. Hotter than a hair dryer but nowhere near as hot as the heat-gun.

(some first example pages/images from google, the company is an art-supply company)

example: hot-air tool, about 360 watts

http://www.dickblick.com/products/marvy-uchida-embossing-heat-tool/

example: heat-gun, about 1200-1500 watts

http://www.dickblick.com/products/master-heat-gun/

http://www.dickblick.com/products/master-ecoheat-heat-gun/

example: butane mini-torch, flame-temp up to ~2000-2500F

http://www.dickblick.com/products/master-microtorches/

Just an FYI.

 

[machine_punk]

thanks, Moonrise...I didn't even know those 'mini' heat guns existed. Might have to get one of those.

Kevv

 

[PCO6]

... I often use the heat gun to warm the cement before I sit on it

I never thought of that. I've been using mine to heat up my ***!

I agree ... I use a butane lighter for most shrink tubing too.

 

[49tandc]

Hey E-tek,
Slip a narrow piece of wood under the window trim when polishing. It will help.

49t&c

 

[e-tek]

I have to go to New Orleans for work next weekend, so I took a shop day today (hehe). Got a lot further on the AC and door wiring systems. The Shaved Door Kit system is rather complex, with 2 remotes that can activate 8 channels. Right now I'm just connecting the doors, but eventually we'll tie in the trunk popper, fuel door, tire-slicing wheel centers and, of course, the ejector seat.

First up today was installing the stainless door wire conduits:

My PowerFist "branded" drill almost ate it on this job! The door side was no problem, but the jamb side was double walled, which kept grabbing the step bit. Most of this is WD40 smoke, so it actually came out of this still working!

(For a video of the above action - with even more smoke!), check the thread in Free Parking!)

I know this looks like a mess (!), but it's actually mostly sorted! Unfortunately, these Vintage Air systems could use a little more wire in the harness!! The lines with the rubber elbows are actually vacuum lines to open the heater, AC and defrost flaps, then there's some regular 12 gauge wires, but also there's these 22 gauge wires to the switch that are barley 10 inches long.... makes for some limited mounting choices even if you choose to do some custom work.

If you look through the mess, you can see I temporarily mounted the vacuum servos and relays on a piece of MDF in order to mock up the location of all those items and route the wiring:

By next week I'll have it all connected and tie-wired up like a pro (no LOL!!)

 

[e-tek]

Was in New Orleans last week. Very cool place - but I guess I'm getting jaded with travel (and must've been tired) because I couldn't wait to get home and back to my shop! Prolly didn't help that our first flight was cancelled, the second was 6 hours delayed and the third arrived without our frikken' luggage!

In between drinking, parting and generally carrying on, we did a lot of shopping..... but here's the best thing I found :

Anyways, got back to the 40 Ford. re-installing the AC and heater bung and continuing with the wiring......

This is the electric override for the door locks - in case you lose the key fob.

Finally getting the wiring sorted for the Vintage Air system:

....and figured out the window wiring on a 6 wire GM button system:

 

[e-tek]

The Cougar went for paint today, giving me back some MUCH-NEEDED room in the shop!

 

[e-tek]

If you've ever installed a Vintage Air System you're missing out on a TON o' DIY "fun".... from the wiring, to the vacuum servo's, to the heater and AC hose connections, there's something for everyone.... and almost too much for one man! After 2 weeks and a total of 12 hours (I like to work at things like this a little at a time!) it's mostly done - save for the final AC hose set up and filling which we'll leave to those with the specific services.

The wiring, vacuum tubes and defrost hose systems are all hooked up - just awaiting the dash cover to be re-installed. Once it's in I can route the last heater hoses to the outer vents and hide all the wires and tubes.

In the engine compartment, the heater hose system got a heat transfer pump - which allows coolant into the heating system - as well as part of the diverter tube (that I cut from the original) which takes coolant to the throttle body manifold.

The wiring and vacuum tubes (for manifold vacuum and to pressure the heat transfer pump) were run through the firewall next to the solenoid:

Also got some of the accessories, such as the power drivers seat wired up:

Next up will be forming the console and getting the seat tracks a permanent perch....

 

[jarhead]

You are me E-Tek, I do have to install one of those eventually .

Thanks for leading the way

**** now that I think about it I will be doing two, yikes. One in a 63 Fairlane, the other in a 68 Torino.

Joe

 

[e-tek]

You are me E-Tek, I do have to install one of those eventually .

Thanks for leading the way

**** now that I think about it I will be doing two, yikes. One in a 63 Fairlane, the other in a 68 Torino.

Joe

Just takes time and being patient with the sometimes poor directions!

 

[e-tek]

Time to tackle the front end wiring....

First I separated everything into lights, engine sensors and power runs...

Then I tore aprt the old harness and took out the parts I needed: lights, alternator, starter wires, etc:

Here you can see the light connectors wired in as well as the engine sensors. I need more **** connectos and web-wrap so I wanted to take a look at the rad and see what we'd need to get that hooked up as well.

Tomorrow I'll buy the fan, ****** cooler line connectors, more electrical stuff.....

Also today I spent some time mocking up the seat placement (the yellow Bristol Board) is to mock up the console):

You'd think they'd have come up with tougher rad fins by now!

I needed a pair of end-cutters and bought this cool set yesterday. Really nice quality and it has all the ends in one, easy to change too.

 

[Ksullivan]

All of your projects look awesome! Great work! My grandpa and I are restoring a 1941 Chevy 3/4 ton truck I posted it in the free parking section

 

[e-tek]

Ah...Sundays...Powerblock, play with the kids, Hot Tub and a few hours in the shop - and that was just this morning!

Here's the dash that came with:

Here's it is partially mocked up:

Rad in:

Not much room!

Pusher fan went in next:

Lots more wiring too:

 

[Omphaloskeptic]

Sounds like you've had a fun, productive Sunday; good for you!

Dang E-Tek, that motor looks like it they had to get it in there with a shoehorn!

I just had an idea for a new thread. How about a title of 'Prettified Engine Compartments'. I'd like to hear about all the car builders' 'tips and tricks' to have a car/truck build 'looking good under the hood'. What do you think? With all the seasoned wrenchers on this forum, there should be lots of ideas that were used to make the engine compartment look like a 'clean, mean, racing machine'.

Everything from tailoring the inner fenders, smoothing the firewall, paint choices, hiding wiring/hoses/accessories, adding 'Bling', temperature-coating hot metal, etc., etc., etc..

Do you think this topic would generate some real usable input from the GJ gang, or has this idea been threaded before?

 

[e-tek]

Sounds like you've had a fun, productive Sunday; good for you!

Dang E-Tek, that motor looks like it they had to get it in there with a shoehorn!

I just had an idea for a new thread. How about a title of 'Prettified Engine Compartments'. I'd like to hear about all the car builders' 'tips and tricks' to have a car/truck build 'looking good under the hood'. What do you think? With all the seasoned wrenchers on this forum, there should be lots of ideas that were used to make the engine compartment look like a 'clean, mean, racing machine'.

Everything from tailoring the inner fenders, smoothing the firewall, paint choices, hiding wiring/hoses/accessories, adding 'Bling', temperature-coating hot metal, etc., etc., etc..

Do you think this topic would generate some real usable input from the GJ gang, or has this idea been threaded before?

Ya- - she's shoehorned in for sure - but it'll get cleaned up and once it's painted contrasting colors, with some chrome - it'll look much better.

I think it'd be a great topic. Would get lotsa engine shots for sure!

 

[KEH]

1940 ford, huh. I learned to drive in a 1940 Ford, nice responsive car. For those who don't know, it had an ignition lock. Start process: insert key in lock on side of steering column, rotate key a couple of turns AIR to unlock the steering wheel and also unlock the toggle switch next to the key. Flip toggle switch to ON, and then start car using a pushbutton on the dash. Car had a manual choke and a manual throttle, which was rarely used. It originally had a hand crank in case the starter went bad.(it never did).

KEH

 

[JC23]

E, wheredja get that gauge panel? And did the trim come with it?

I have a 40 dash in me 33 and need one.

 

[JamieK]

I've got one of those toy cars, but its a Cougar. (on the right)...

Took me a while to figure out how it was supposed to work til someone older than me remmembered from their childhood. Its made to drive itself around on top of a table, but when it gets to the edge, it'll reverse direction to keep from falling off. Just in case anybody didn't know.

Also, on the power doors. How do they open if the battery goes dead? Is there a manual backup?

 

[e-tek]

E, wheredja get that gauge panel? And did the trim come with it?

I have a 40 dash in me 33 and need one.

The owner had purchased it somewhere - but i've seen them on lotsa sites like Speedway. The bezel/trim is original to the car.

I've got one of those toy cars, but its a Cougar. (on the right)...

Took me a while to figure out how it was supposed to work til someone older than me remmembered from their childhood. Its made to drive itself around on top of a table, but when it gets to the edge, it'll reverse direction to keep from falling off. Just in case anybody didn't know.

Also, on the power doors. How do they open if the battery goes dead? Is there a manual backup?

There's a manual pull available, but not being installed! Gonna need a jump just to get it!

 

[JC23]

Thanks, e!

 

[e-tek]

Bunch more wiring and the seats are bolted in. It's all on the blog, but I'll posts pics of the console build up here tomorrow. Thanks to all who check it out!

 

[e-tek]

Mocked up the console today.Once I get the go-ahead on the general shape I'll start the build of the final product.

Check out that red-line!

Also started on some repair of the hood edge so it can be mounted and fit later....

Looks like lead...

Melts like it too!

Ready for welding....

 

[theoldwizard1]

Do you have a source for PVC electrical tape WITHOUT adhesive backing, like the OEMs use ?