mdkingsley
Well-known member
Awesome updates as usually keep up the good work
E-tek Restorations: PROJECT THREAD
- Thread starter e-tek
- Start date
This^^^
I mentioned in the New tools thread that I bought a couple new ratcheting wrench sets. Today I cut the boxes apart to use just the holders in my box. Worked well.
Now I just need a better way of organizing my sockets!
While i was organizing, I decided I also needed to get the 27 Ford shell out of the shop. I had good intentions of working on it over the winter, but with the 40 Ford, the 67 Camaro - and the 240Z to put together - so it was just wishful thinking that I'd get anything done on the rod. Beside, in a 4 stall shop, you can't do much with something in every stall - so out it went -
At minus 30C I had to open - yank it outside - and close the door pretty quickly, so I enlisted Mrs E-tek's help. It was out in the yard in minutes.
After that, I finally had enough room to replace the friction disc on the snowblower!
Now I just need a better way of organizing my sockets!
While i was organizing, I decided I also needed to get the 27 Ford shell out of the shop. I had good intentions of working on it over the winter, but with the 40 Ford, the 67 Camaro - and the 240Z to put together - so it was just wishful thinking that I'd get anything done on the rod. Beside, in a 4 stall shop, you can't do much with something in every stall - so out it went -
At minus 30C I had to open - yank it outside - and close the door pretty quickly, so I enlisted Mrs E-tek's help. It was out in the yard in minutes.
After that, I finally had enough room to replace the friction disc on the snowblower!
Getting back to the 40 Ford, I re-opened the HL buckets, notched the HL rings for the halogens and then installed and wired in the park/signal lights from Bob Drake.
I decided to take a little detour here and re-do the console face for the new stereo configuration. The owner purchased the new Retro-Sound audio system, that allows one to put the controls anywhere. There's also USB connectors, BlueTooth and wireless connections.
Here's the latest mock-up. The little squares are for USB sockets inserts. This will all get wrapped by the upholsterers, but I want to mock up all the wiring to and from the amp and speakers before it gets sent out to them.
Lastly today, I got the rad overflow talk mounted to the inner fender. Nice piece.
As I get all the little bits finished up and get closer to powering it up and turning the key for a KOEO test, I want to be sure I (or worse, the owner) won't have to go back in to catch anything missed, or re-do anything. So tomorrow, I'll be pulling the intake again to get all the vacuum openings sorted out. The Vintage Air system also needs vacuum, so that has to be T-'d off as well.
I decided to take a little detour here and re-do the console face for the new stereo configuration. The owner purchased the new Retro-Sound audio system, that allows one to put the controls anywhere. There's also USB connectors, BlueTooth and wireless connections.
Here's the latest mock-up. The little squares are for USB sockets inserts. This will all get wrapped by the upholsterers, but I want to mock up all the wiring to and from the amp and speakers before it gets sent out to them.
Lastly today, I got the rad overflow talk mounted to the inner fender. Nice piece.
As I get all the little bits finished up and get closer to powering it up and turning the key for a KOEO test, I want to be sure I (or worse, the owner) won't have to go back in to catch anything missed, or re-do anything. So tomorrow, I'll be pulling the intake again to get all the vacuum openings sorted out. The Vintage Air system also needs vacuum, so that has to be T-'d off as well.
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
As usual, fantastic looking work.
Mike.
Mike.
With the only vacuum lines coming from under the intake plenum, I had little choice but to remove it again to get the lines set for the Vintage Air System, as well as re-do the stock lines. This is the run-up to end!
i put this block of wood over the intake holes to make sure nothing fell in, but it served to remind me just how far we've come from Henry's first models!
i put this block of wood over the intake holes to make sure nothing fell in, but it served to remind me just how far we've come from Henry's first models!
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Today I got all the vacuum lines sorted, first by plugging those that will not be needed:
Then by running lines required for MAF, IFS, EGR and the Vintage Air System:
Finally, I re-installed the intake, hooked up the throttle body and trans linkages and connected all the lines:
After the back-breaking work that was re-installing the intake, I thought I'd work on something easier (ya right), like mounting the licence plate bracket on the trunk lid...
You know the old adage, "Measure Twice, Cut Once"? Well, when you're working on a freshly painted rod, it's "Measure 10 Times, then Cut Once, while praying to God you got it right'!
Then, what was supposed to be a fairly straight-forward operation became much less straight....owing to the inner structure that holds the latch mechanism. I spent another 30 minutes getting part of that out of the way in order to make room for the plate-holders mounting screws.
Got called in for dinner just as I was finishing up - so it'll have to wait!
Then by running lines required for MAF, IFS, EGR and the Vintage Air System:
Finally, I re-installed the intake, hooked up the throttle body and trans linkages and connected all the lines:
After the back-breaking work that was re-installing the intake, I thought I'd work on something easier (ya right), like mounting the licence plate bracket on the trunk lid...
You know the old adage, "Measure Twice, Cut Once"? Well, when you're working on a freshly painted rod, it's "Measure 10 Times, then Cut Once, while praying to God you got it right'!
Then, what was supposed to be a fairly straight-forward operation became much less straight....owing to the inner structure that holds the latch mechanism. I spent another 30 minutes getting part of that out of the way in order to make room for the plate-holders mounting screws.
Got called in for dinner just as I was finishing up - so it'll have to wait!
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ddawg16
Well-known member
Ed...on the console mockup....is it going to stay wood and just get wrapped in upholstery?
One of my next jeep tasks is a center console....but I'm thinking steel....but still looking for ideas.
And.....your tool box? It's too neat....you need to toss some of those tools around....it's killing me.
One of my next jeep tasks is a center console....but I'm thinking steel....but still looking for ideas.
And.....your tool box? It's too neat....you need to toss some of those tools around....it's killing me.
Ya, I made it up like they do all the speaker enclosures, etc. They can round/shape it if needed then they'll wrap it:
As for the toolbox - I put my stuff away so I can find it again - yet I still managed to lose 2 wrenches in the past couple weeks
With at least a month of "holidays" coming up, I should be able to get the 40Ford ready for the upholsterers - and then get back to doing some metalwork - on the Camaro!
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MP&C
Well-known member
That should make for a sweet looking console 
HOTFR8
Banned
That should make for a sweet looking console
keen to see the final outcome of that as it looks good.Joe Hine
New member
Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck
The hinges loo pretty good, but as you can see, when I took the fasteners out, they still looked pretty nasty....
On a Jaguar restoration I'm just about finished I used one of the little eastwood vibrating cleaners with triangle shaped media in it. Left the bolts overnight vibrating away and clean as new the next day. Great product for cleaning rust of small parts.
I'll just fire up the sandblaster.......
[/QUOTE]
The hinges loo pretty good, but as you can see, when I took the fasteners out, they still looked pretty nasty....
On a Jaguar restoration I'm just about finished I used one of the little eastwood vibrating cleaners with triangle shaped media in it. Left the bolts overnight vibrating away and clean as new the next day. Great product for cleaning rust of small parts.
I'll just fire up the sandblaster.......
[/QUOTE]
Polar Bear Hot Tub!
BTW, you didn't show the finished nuts and bolts after the media tumbler. We're paying good money to watch you work your magic!
Err..... tell me that's now what Jag fasteners look like brand new!
BTW, you didn't show the finished nuts and bolts after the media tumbler. We're paying good money to watch you work your magic!
Err..... tell me that's now what Jag fasteners look like brand new!
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Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Ya, I made it up like they do all the speaker enclosures, etc. They can round/shape it if needed then they'll wrap it:
As for the toolbox - I put my stuff away so I can find it again - yet I still managed to lose 2 wrenches in the past couple weeks
With at least a month of "holidays" coming up, I should be able to get the 40Ford ready for the upholsterers - and then get back to doing some metalwork - on the Camaro!
If you would, could you do a small write-up on the console when it gets wrapped? I'm curious how they will do it. Whether it has some padding underneath the leather, or however they do it. I'd like to change the console in momma's Cutlass to something a little more modern and useable.
Did you make up the decal on your vise, or what is it? I'm assuming a decal. Looks good
Polar Bear Hot Tub!
BTW, you didn't show the finished nuts and bolts after the media tumbler. We're paying good money to watch you work your magic!
Err..... tell me that's now what Jag fasteners look like brand new!
Those "Jag" fasteners are not mine! I believe poster Joe Hines pulled the top photo from my thread and compared that rust removal method (sandblasting), to him doing the Jag stuff with a Tumbler. Confused me too....
I thought that measuring for center would be the hardest part of installing the licence plate light and holder - but WAS I WRONG! This thing kicked my *** 3 ways from Sunday - due to the initial body shop putting too much filler in the lid, as well as there being a structural component in the lid that made "typical" installation impossible.
Anyways, after MUCH perseverance and patience, plus some ingenuity, I finally got 'er done!
- due to the initial body shop putting too much filler in the lid, as well as there being a structural component in the lid that made "typical" installation impossible.Anyways, after MUCH perseverance and patience, plus some ingenuity, I finally got 'er done!
You'll recall I spent a little extra time making sure it was all lined up, but still, the whole operation took about 24 minutes! Little did I know getting to the finish line would take me a ridiculous number of hours over 2 days....
So, after measuring, I drilled a couple pilot holes. Easy enough, but as the drill went through, I found that not only was the filler nearly half-an-inch thick (not done by me!). Not only that, but the only place it could be mounted - was directly above the latch re-enforcement plate, which would make drilling the holes large enough for the mounting hardware exceedingly difficult and that installing the item as per the instructions, absolutely impossible.
In this pic you can see how thick the filler is on the trunk lid, but I'm also showing how I had to use something to guide the bits through the metal support structure underneath so as not to slot the filler above:
From the underside, you can see what caused me so much trouble in getting a straight hole drilled, as well as being able to get a fastener in there:
Even with the many tools at my disposable, due to the small area of access available, I could not - for the life of me - remove enough of the bottom structure - without damaging the underside of the lid - in order to get it fastened from the back side.
The final answer to this puzzle took a while for me to get to, but what I did was drill from both the bottom and top until I could get a bolt straight through, then to use long enough bolts (4inches) to be able to tighten them down to the surface of the inner structure. I'll take a photo tomorrow of the finished backside.
I STILL can't believe how lucky the owner was to get that plate!! Horseshoes - LOL !!
So, after measuring, I drilled a couple pilot holes. Easy enough, but as the drill went through, I found that not only was the filler nearly half-an-inch thick (not done by me!). Not only that, but the only place it could be mounted - was directly above the latch re-enforcement plate, which would make drilling the holes large enough for the mounting hardware exceedingly difficult and that installing the item as per the instructions, absolutely impossible.
In this pic you can see how thick the filler is on the trunk lid, but I'm also showing how I had to use something to guide the bits through the metal support structure underneath so as not to slot the filler above:
From the underside, you can see what caused me so much trouble in getting a straight hole drilled, as well as being able to get a fastener in there:
Even with the many tools at my disposable, due to the small area of access available, I could not - for the life of me - remove enough of the bottom structure - without damaging the underside of the lid - in order to get it fastened from the back side.
The final answer to this puzzle took a while for me to get to, but what I did was drill from both the bottom and top until I could get a bolt straight through, then to use long enough bolts (4inches) to be able to tighten them down to the surface of the inner structure. I'll take a photo tomorrow of the finished backside.
I STILL can't believe how lucky the owner was to get that plate!! Horseshoes - LOL !!
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Today I went out and tried to forget about that nightmare and instead, did some wiring. I think I mentioned previously that the owner purchased halogen HL's with LED daytime running lights. I hadn't installed a set up like this, with a 5-wire relay, but after he expalined the hook-up, I got to work:
I mounted the relay on the inner fender were all the others are. In the end I plan to make nice cover/box to hide and protect them all there:
One wire had to go to both LED's, so I connected it in a split-off formation:
It was going to be a real PITA to route them through all the holes and corrugated tubing - but lucky for me, and as mentioned earlier - all this corrugated thick plastic **** will be replaced with the nice stuff!
Quick trick most of you likely know already - WD40 makes everything slide easier! I could hardly get this wire started, but a little WD and she slid right on through:
Now here's the part that kinda confused me - for a minute. The red wire came with a ring terminal and the black with a plug terminal. To me that means the red is ground and the black power - which is backwards, right? The only thing I could say to myself was "Whateva - it must not matter on LEDs - right?
So currently, I grounded the red....
..and powered the black...unless someone tells me otherwise!
I feel pretty good about the quality of my wiring:
We'll button it up tomorrow!
I mounted the relay on the inner fender were all the others are. In the end I plan to make nice cover/box to hide and protect them all there:
One wire had to go to both LED's, so I connected it in a split-off formation:
It was going to be a real PITA to route them through all the holes and corrugated tubing - but lucky for me, and as mentioned earlier - all this corrugated thick plastic **** will be replaced with the nice stuff!
Quick trick most of you likely know already - WD40 makes everything slide easier! I could hardly get this wire started, but a little WD and she slid right on through:
Now here's the part that kinda confused me - for a minute. The red wire came with a ring terminal and the black with a plug terminal. To me that means the red is ground and the black power - which is backwards, right? The only thing I could say to myself was "Whateva - it must not matter on LEDs - right?
So currently, I grounded the red....
..and powered the black...unless someone tells me otherwise!
I feel pretty good about the quality of my wiring:
We'll button it up tomorrow!
WARNING - WARNING - WARNING
Polarity usually DOES matter for LEDs.
Double-check how the polarity is supposed to be for those LEDS. Do not assume, check and double-check. Call the maker/distributor, check the wiring diagram (or the instructions
), just double-check how the polarity is supposed to be.Letting the magic-smoke
out of some LEDs can be frustrating (and annoying, and costly).For 'regular' bulbs (incandescents), polarity really doesn't matter (on the bulb/filament itself). For LEDs or many other electronic devices, polarity often does matter.
Check and double-check. Do not assume.
WARNING - WARNING - WARNING
Polarity usually DOES matter for LEDs.
Double-check how the polarity is supposed to be for those LEDS. Do not assume, check and double-check. Call the maker/distributor, check the wiring diagram (or the instructions
Letting the magic-smoke
For 'regular' bulbs (incandescents), polarity really doesn't matter (on the bulb/filament itself). For LEDs or many other electronic devices, polarity often does matter.
Check and double-check. Do not assume.
Thanks Moon-rise, I was waiting for someone to chime in.
I'm not one for guessing, so I hooked the one up then came in to ask/research it. Halogens came with NO instructions! I'll check with manufacturer/other sources before finalizing.For halogens or other incans, polarity doesn't matter for the bulb/filament itself.
It may matter for how the housing or other metal items are, so that you aren't shorting or running a circuit through a housing to the chassis or body or whatever.
But for LEDs, polarity usually does matter.
In addition to the possible issue of ending up running (+) through the housing, which is connected to the (grounded) body or chassis. Which then means you ended up making a circuit through the metal shell into the body. Not what one usually wants to do.
Check and double-check.
It may matter for how the housing or other metal items are, so that you aren't shorting or running a circuit through a housing to the chassis or body or whatever.
But for LEDs, polarity usually does matter.
In addition to the possible issue of ending up running (+) through the housing, which is connected to the (grounded) body or chassis. Which then means you ended up making a circuit through the metal shell into the body. Not what one usually wants to do.
Check and double-check.
DoghouseForge
Well-known member
In the photos where you had the hole drilled it looks like drywall! That filler was thick! I m surprised you didnt find some rebar as well.
love your thread, fun and educational as usual.
JP
I m surprised you didnt find some rebar as well. love your thread, fun and educational as usual.
JP
Turns out there IS polarity on these particular LED's, but only inasmuch that they only work one way and, as I had deduced, the ringed wire, even though red, is ground, while the black wire, with the "plug-end", is positive:
Here's the inners. You can reverse the lamp with no issues (note the ring terminal on the red wire):
And here they are, installed and working
Park-lamps look good too!
Finished up most of the wiring today, including dash, engine power, tailights, 3rd brake light and licence plate.
Ran the ducting to the outer vents (not a lot of room for a glove box!):
Next, time to set up for some tunes!
Just need to figure the best way to mount them without loosing all the structure in the package shelf.
Here's the inners. You can reverse the lamp with no issues (note the ring terminal on the red wire):
And here they are, installed and working
Park-lamps look good too!
Finished up most of the wiring today, including dash, engine power, tailights, 3rd brake light and licence plate.
Ran the ducting to the outer vents (not a lot of room for a glove box!):
Next, time to set up for some tunes!
Just need to figure the best way to mount them without loosing all the structure in the package shelf.
HOTFR8
Banned
Ed, Often you can test an LED on a small 9 volt battery. LED's are mostly voltage tolerant and a small 9 volt battery is an easy way to test them.
That's a great point Simon - and one I came across today as I was looking into this. Here's a great "Instructables" link on the topic:
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Polarity-Tester/
HOTFR8
Banned
I often use a small 9 volt battery to show customers lights. When they see how bright an LED is you then remind them it will be much better when it is wired as 12 volt.
That is not bad information on that link.
That is not bad information on that link.
awdblazer
Well-known member
I envy you ed, you get so much garage time
but I guess your kids are much older than mine lol (2 and 4)
but I guess your kids are much older than mine lol (2 and 4)
Without boring you with my life story, I had a long-term plan to spend more time in my shop and am happy to say it happened, so i'm sure you can do the same! When my boys where 2 and 4 it took me 5 years to restore a Challenger in our attached 2-car garage. I sold the Chally to build my shop and now have a couple of my own projects, plus I help guys with their projects - which is the only way I can do what enjoy while not going broke!
Spending time with your boys is never wasted, but we have to keep ourselves happy too - right!?!
Ummm, not quite.
Most LEDs are not voltage tolerant.
Some LEDs sitting 'behind' a driver circuit may or may not be voltage tolerant (depending on how smart/tolerant the driver circuitry is or isn't).
Applying 9V DC to an LED circuit (the LED + the driver circuitry) that is made for 12V DC will usually be OK.
Applying 9V DC to a bare LED that 'wants' 2-3V DC will most likely result in a release of MagicSmoke from said LED or a fired internal 'wire'.
So it all depends on the specific LED(s) and their driver circuitry (if any).
HOTFR8
Banned
Ummm, not quite.
Most LEDs are not voltage tolerant.
Some LEDs sitting 'behind' a driver circuit may or may not be voltage tolerant (depending on how smart/tolerant the driver circuitry is or isn't).
Applying 9V DC to an LED circuit (the LED + the driver circuitry) that is made for 12V DC will usually be OK.
Applying 9V DC to a bare LED that 'wants' 2-3V DC will most likely result in a release of MagicSmoke from said LED or a fired internal 'wire'.
So it all depends on the specific LED(s) and their driver circuitry (if any).
Would it have been better if I said Automotive LED's and been more specific ?
Seat belts need to be mounted, but after setting them out I thought better of it and decided to wait until the seats and upholstery is mocked in.
So, I moved onto the rear windows, which have a ton of parts including felts in and out, garnish moldings that need to be prepped and painted the interior (tan) color, as well as the windows and runners that need to be installed on runners so they can be raised and lowered.
First up was replacing all these clips in the body:
Here you can see the clips bent over the felt on the body side:
Each side takes nearly an hour. Part of the reason they take so long is that these felts are manufactured in straight pieces, then bent around a form - by a ham-fisted monkey I'm guessing - prior to shipping:
So each one has to be bent and fit to each clip and evened out as you go:
One side done:
So, I moved onto the rear windows, which have a ton of parts including felts in and out, garnish moldings that need to be prepped and painted the interior (tan) color, as well as the windows and runners that need to be installed on runners so they can be raised and lowered.
First up was replacing all these clips in the body:
Here you can see the clips bent over the felt on the body side:
Each side takes nearly an hour. Part of the reason they take so long is that these felts are manufactured in straight pieces, then bent around a form - by a ham-fisted monkey I'm guessing
- prior to shipping:
So each one has to be bent and fit to each clip and evened out as you go:
One side done:
Finally felt like i accomplished something today...
Continuing from where I left off yesterday, I put installed the windows in their runners in order to install them in the car:
First, I tried putting the rubber on the glass, then installing them together in the runner:
But that didn't work, so then I put the rubber in the runner, soaped the glass then forcefully slid the two together:
The business end of a rubber mallet made a good pusher:
And once the pieces where mated (ouch!), I greased the tracks:
The stop-arm looked like it could use a rubber stopper, so I put about 5 rubber washers on it:
And finally, removed the stopper screw from the forward runner:
With the one side ready I did the same with the other side glass, but once done -- and sitting up next to each other on the bench -- I found that one glass pane was larger than the other! After some careful measuring of glass and car, I found one was going to fit and the other - not so much.
The smaller one must be for a coupe-style 40Ford - and this is the Standard...but at least I had one side to work with.
Inside the car, I set up lots of padding for my old-man knees and got to work:
Fitting these windows is a ***** of an operation and only happens one way: starting with the back end and CUSSING throughout!
You begin by sliding the aft-end in first, mating the rear-most regulator button with the rear-most runner:
After a lot of jockeying - and with my arms already getting tired- I tipped the front end down and in:
With a LOT of effort, whilst simultaneously moving the window crank back and forth, the regulators arms opening and closing and moving the glass around to try and connect everything together, the two regulator arms finally mated with their runners. After some more jockeying - and much more swearing - and the window actually went up and down - yay!
I'll have to get another pane cut tomorrow.
Continuing from where I left off yesterday, I put installed the windows in their runners in order to install them in the car:
First, I tried putting the rubber on the glass, then installing them together in the runner:
But that didn't work, so then I put the rubber in the runner, soaped the glass then forcefully slid the two together:
The business end of a rubber mallet made a good pusher:
And once the pieces where mated (ouch!), I greased the tracks:
The stop-arm looked like it could use a rubber stopper, so I put about 5 rubber washers on it:
And finally, removed the stopper screw from the forward runner:
With the one side ready I did the same with the other side glass, but once done -- and sitting up next to each other on the bench -- I found that one glass pane was larger than the other! After some careful measuring of glass and car, I found one was going to fit and the other - not so much.
The smaller one must be for a coupe-style 40Ford - and this is the Standard...but at least I had one side to work with.
Inside the car, I set up lots of padding for my old-man knees and got to work:
Fitting these windows is a ***** of an operation and only happens one way: starting with the back end and CUSSING throughout!
You begin by sliding the aft-end in first, mating the rear-most regulator button with the rear-most runner:
After a lot of jockeying - and with my arms already getting tired
- I tipped the front end down and in:
With a LOT of effort, whilst simultaneously moving the window crank back and forth, the regulators arms opening and closing and moving the glass around to try and connect everything together, the two regulator arms finally mated with their runners. After some more jockeying - and much more swearing - and the window actually went up and down - yay!
I'll have to get another pane cut tomorrow.
Responder
Well-known member
With a LOT of effort, whilst simultaneously moving the window crank back and forth
Now, you are just getting crazy! LOL !!
Now, you are just getting crazy! LOL !!
But wait, there's more!
After all that - and with the to-do list winding down in the 40,
I decided I needed a chamge of pace - so I got to doing some more tear-down on the 67 Camaro project:
Now I'm not sure who the upholster was that did the headliner last, but there where a few spots that I though may not have been up to our standards!
Hmmm...what's that behind the sail panel upholstery?
Surprise - it's 2-sided tape!
I'd never say that headliners are easy, but I sure hope it looked better than this when done and that this happened "down the road"...
Anyways, down it came, along with all the trim, seat belts and the center console:
Of course the more that comes off, the more room needed to store it all. Better do some cleaning tomorrow morning before pulling the doors off!
After all that - and with the to-do list winding down in the 40,
I decided I needed a chamge of pace - so I got to doing some more tear-down on the 67 Camaro project:
Now I'm not sure who the upholster was that did the headliner last
, but there where a few spots that I though may not have been up to our standards!
Hmmm...what's that behind the sail panel upholstery?
Surprise - it's 2-sided tape!
I'd never say that headliners are easy, but I sure hope it looked better than this when done and that this happened "down the road"...
Anyways, down it came, along with all the trim, seat belts and the center console:
Of course the more that comes off, the more room needed to store it all. Better do some cleaning tomorrow morning before pulling the doors off!
Aquaticbob
Well-known member
Would love to hear more about the Camaro you got there! Went through your blog and website to try and find more, read everything there, so I ask here