I lowered the F150 in the back when I bought it to level it out. The tongue weight wasn’t bad, the weight was on the trailer axles. The truck needs airbags, all of the new F150’s benefit from them for towing from what I’ve read. I was thoroughly impressed with the 5.0/10 speed while towing. It’s really cool how well it works in tow/haul mode.
Above 1200 Sq/FT Eastern Washington Workshop
- Thread starter slodat
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
I lowered the F150 in the back when I bought it to level it out. The tongue weight wasn’t bad, the weight was on the trailer axles. The truck needs airbags, all of the new F150’s benefit from them for towing from what I’ve read. I was thoroughly impressed with the 5.0/10 speed while towing. It’s really cool how well it works in tow/haul mode.
xtremek
Well-known member
Time for an Airlift system?
Created a new thread for the Tree Journeyman 425 CNC milling machine control retrofit.
Toe Jack arrived. It’s a very nice piece. Had no problem moving the square tubing inboard a bit so the toe jack could be used in the pocket made for it.
Toe Jack arrived. It’s a very nice piece. Had no problem moving the square tubing inboard a bit so the toe jack could be used in the pocket made for it.
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jbmatth
Well-known member
I didn't realize toe jacks existed, I will need to move a mill of similar size at some point and have been struggling with that part. Thanks a ton for that tip (pun intended).
JB
JB
matt_i
Well-known member
Great looking toe jack, I've seen some (brand new) that looked completely cobbled from a bottle jack. That one seems to have a lot more "engineering" into making custom parts.
I've relied on "pinch & point" prybars for some years (see also McMaster Carr
) The 7 footer is tough to resist. I always take that one on the road in case something gets shifted and I have to put it back.
I've relied on "pinch & point" prybars for some years (see also McMaster Carr
) The 7 footer is tough to resist. I always take that one on the road in case something gets shifted and I have to put it back.jbmatth
Well-known member
I didn't realize that was a thing either, I may make my own after looking at prices though, I have most everything laying around.
JB
JB
lilscorpion
Well-known member
I might have bought the same one. I need to install some leveling feet at some point early this year. Even though they’re not cheap, they work really well for moving a mill.
I’ve planned on sorting out a touch probe on the cnc router since I installed the Centroid Acorn control. It has a probe detect feature that locks out the spindle when the probe is in use to prevent damage to the probe. Because it’s going on the router when I found out about a wireless option I knew that’s what I wanted. I bought Cliff Hall’s really well made ITTP (impact tolerant touch probe) and XoomSpeed’s wireless conversion. Both items are truly impressive.
I drew up a terminal box to mount my probe detect manual pushbutton next to the spindle and printed it on the 3d printer.
Today I got it all wired up and working. There’s an additional probe receptacle on the box in case I ever want to use a wired probe.
First order of business was getting concentricity dialed in. I got it to a few tenths. As good as it got today.
Then run a bore probing cycle on a known bore size and see how things look. I am really happy with the probe and the wireless conversion. I'm excited to add this to the control. Lots to learn!
I drew up a terminal box to mount my probe detect manual pushbutton next to the spindle and printed it on the 3d printer.
Today I got it all wired up and working. There’s an additional probe receptacle on the box in case I ever want to use a wired probe.
First order of business was getting concentricity dialed in. I got it to a few tenths. As good as it got today.
Then run a bore probing cycle on a known bore size and see how things look. I am really happy with the probe and the wireless conversion. I'm excited to add this to the control. Lots to learn!
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice!!!! You like little toys, don't you. 
I’m trying to learn how to make cool **** in the shop!
I can’t deny I dig marrying new tech with traditional methods. As cool as digital fabrication can be, it only goes so far. WCS setup has really been a challenge to wrap my head around on the router. I can see how this will be a tremendous help with that.
I can’t deny I dig marrying new tech with traditional methods. As cool as digital fabrication can be, it only goes so far. WCS setup has really been a challenge to wrap my head around on the router. I can see how this will be a tremendous help with that.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I’m trying to learn how to make cool **** in the shop!
Trying to learn?!?!?!?! Dude, that ship sailed long ago. You DO make cool **** in the shop. (I'm just a teeny but envious here.)
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
It will probably kick your *** for a little bit but once you get the hang of 3D modeling (you will love it) and the downstream ops, you are REALLY going to make some cool ****.
harley jim
Well-known member
Merry Christmas, Slodat
I really enjoy watching your progress it is very interesting, love the mill project.
Wishes for a great 2020, Jim
Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
I really enjoy watching your progress it is very interesting, love the mill project.
Wishes for a great 2020, Jim
Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
I’m trying to learn how to make cool **** in the shop!
I can’t deny I dig marrying new tech with traditional methods. As cool as digital fabrication can be, it only goes so far. WCS setup has really been a challenge to wrap my head around on the router. I can see how this will be a tremendous help with that.
I may have to pick your brain next year. My plan is to buy a Bridgeport or clone soon. Then upfit it to CNC.
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Happy Holidays, Jim! I appreciate you checking out my shop and taking the time to comment. While the shop is a dream to work in, it can be a lonely place this time of year!
I'm happy to share what I've picked up along the way. My first reaction to retrofitting a Bridgeport is there are a lot better options that a typical J-head mill. Ideally, an old CNC machine that the control is either outdated, not functional or similar. If I sell my takeoff parts for 1/3 of what they typically go for, I'll have zero dollars into the machine before I do the new controls and spindle drive. These go for under two grand often. There's an identical machine to mine in Seattle area as of last week. Seller is asking $1k and he can't load it. I bet a deal could be had. It's a lot of weight to move. You want a forklift/telehandler at each end of the trip. Well worth the effort.
I’ve been taking care of little punch list kind of things for the past few days. It’s so nice to relax and enjoy the shop. Good recharge for the coming year for sure.
It’s no secret I’m all about automating things where it makes sense. One such thing is my cnc router. I’ve had several things I’ve wanted to do for a while. I had all the materials on hand and in general knew what I wanted to do. The probe setup yesterday is one such project.
Today I got the air blast installed and working on the router. M code to turn it on and off. Should be really handy with plastics and aluminum. Hose was ran when I had the motors apart.
I have a lot of electric heat.. 23kw. I can’t have it all running when I have the router, vacuum table and dust collector running. That’s over 15 hp of motor running at once. This little guy, actuated by M codes, tells my home automation system (HomeSeer) to disable the heat while the router is running. It has to be outside the enclosure so the Z-Wave radio can work. This is the simple solution I came up with. It works well.
Only router project left is I’d like to design a better dust shoe for the spindle. I’ll get to it at some point.
Happy Holidays!!
It’s no secret I’m all about automating things where it makes sense. One such thing is my cnc router. I’ve had several things I’ve wanted to do for a while. I had all the materials on hand and in general knew what I wanted to do. The probe setup yesterday is one such project.
Today I got the air blast installed and working on the router. M code to turn it on and off. Should be really handy with plastics and aluminum. Hose was ran when I had the motors apart.
I have a lot of electric heat.. 23kw. I can’t have it all running when I have the router, vacuum table and dust collector running. That’s over 15 hp of motor running at once. This little guy, actuated by M codes, tells my home automation system (HomeSeer) to disable the heat while the router is running. It has to be outside the enclosure so the Z-Wave radio can work. This is the simple solution I came up with. It works well.
Only router project left is I’d like to design a better dust shoe for the spindle. I’ll get to it at some point.
Happy Holidays!!
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BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
Merry Christmas Slodat, are you going to convert the mill to 2 or 3 axis CNC.
I would assume Z has been done on your type of mill before.
I'm looking forward to seeing your mill go through the Slodat treatment.
Greg
I would assume Z has been done on your type of mill before.
I'm looking forward to seeing your mill go through the Slodat treatment.
Greg
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Steven - Merry Christmas! I wish I could work out of your shop, you’re building my dream shop. You have such an impressive set of capabilities...man.
I’ve been looking at the modern day Centroid DIY system for a while now. I converted my manual knee mill to Centroid CNC about 15 years ago (I think) and it’s been a good error-free setup. I’m following along on your mill build. Gonna be sweet!
I use the centroid conversational programming almost exclusively because the old DXF import sucked. I know you’ve posted it somewhere in the past but can’t find it - What are you using for CAD on your router table? I wish I had a 2D art CAD I could post from...are you posting direct?
Another question about the AllIn1DC - I’ve had it on my list to build a bench top CNC press brake for some time now but for whatever reason, I’m apprehensive about building a CNC from scratch. The conversion I did on the mill was a kit that came ready for bolt-on which eliminated the thinking part. What’s the learning curve (figuring out what parts you need and how to get it all together) on a from scratch kit?
Also - really like the probe setup. It’s one of those features that makes difficult and time consuming tasks stupid easy. The notion you could cut a part on your router, find out a hole is too small, chuck it up anywhere on the table quick, find absolute center, and enlarge it to the correct dimension in less than a minute is a game changer.
Matt
Matt- I was hoping you’d stop by. I had a feeling some of this stuff would interest you. The shop is a dream for me, too. I get so lost working in the shop. It’s truly a joy and a privilege.
I use Vectric Aspire for 2d (2.5d is what I believe they actually classify it as) CAD. It does tool paths and the Centroid post processor works great. I run Dropbox on all of the shop computers. In Aspire I save the post processor output to a Dropbox folder. By the time I walk to the router control PC, it’s already on it. Load the file and I’m ready to cut. I will be able to use the same post for the mill as I do on the router. I don’t see me quitting using Aspire. A lot of parts are 2/2.5d and it’s fast and easy at this point. I’m over the hump of the learning curve. VCarve Pro is a lot less money and you wouldn’t notice the feature difference. And, I know once I’m proficient with Fusion 360, I’ll do more stuff In there. I do use Centroid’s Intercon conversational here and there.
For your press brake idea, I’d look Centroid Acorn. If it can do what you want. You’d need to sort out the gcode stuff. Acorn is $300. As far as the learning curve goes, it’s like everything else. It’s not hard and there are lots of people happy to help. Including me. What do you have for motors on your mill?
The probe is a huge game changer. Especially for parts where I want to engrave on the laser, then machine on the router. That’s the project for the next couple days. Sorting that out.
Merry Christmas, Matt and all!!
I use Vectric Aspire for 2d (2.5d is what I believe they actually classify it as) CAD. It does tool paths and the Centroid post processor works great. I run Dropbox on all of the shop computers. In Aspire I save the post processor output to a Dropbox folder. By the time I walk to the router control PC, it’s already on it. Load the file and I’m ready to cut. I will be able to use the same post for the mill as I do on the router. I don’t see me quitting using Aspire. A lot of parts are 2/2.5d and it’s fast and easy at this point. I’m over the hump of the learning curve. VCarve Pro is a lot less money and you wouldn’t notice the feature difference. And, I know once I’m proficient with Fusion 360, I’ll do more stuff In there. I do use Centroid’s Intercon conversational here and there.
For your press brake idea, I’d look Centroid Acorn. If it can do what you want. You’d need to sort out the gcode stuff. Acorn is $300. As far as the learning curve goes, it’s like everything else. It’s not hard and there are lots of people happy to help. Including me. What do you have for motors on your mill?
The probe is a huge game changer. Especially for parts where I want to engrave on the laser, then machine on the router. That’s the project for the next couple days. Sorting that out.
Merry Christmas, Matt and all!!
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Merry Christmas Steven!
I'm off work for two weeks. I usually plan a big project for this time off. It's a great way to recharge. I like to choose something that's a lot of work, needs to be done and will feel great knowing it's behind me all year. The floor next to the roll up door in the upholstery bay is really, really rough. I didn't put the Lock-Tile down in that area because the floor wasn't flat enough to support it.
Apparently I hit my head, hard. Because I decided I'd knock out flattening that bit of concrete. I started by pulling up tile to clear the work area. This is some of what I found.
I did a 2' square moisture test where you tape a chunk of plastic sheet to the floor, sealing all of the edges. Remove it 24 hours later and look for moisture. It came up bone dry. I'm getting some moisture, but I don't think it's coming through the slab. Most likely through the cracks in the floor. Not much moisture, but enough for some mold and funk to grow in some of the tiles in the three years since I put the tile down. It's not consistently everywhere and the photos are of the worst spots.
I spent the entirety of yesterday researching, running to town for supplies, talking to a lot of knowledgeable people on the subject and in general putting together a game plan. I need to get this done and the shop back together in a week.. ish.
I deliberated on a lot of different solutions. Epoxy coating the floor is not an option. It would be a TON of work to get it in a condition the epoxy would look even half *** good. I bought some epoxy to seal the existing cracks.
This is $160 in epoxy and associated applicator.
The plan:
I considered a lot of options. There is such a tiny amount of moisture that I don't think the more expensive 2 part, 100% solids epoxy liquid vapor barrier products are necessary. They are about 4 times the cost of the Drylok and at least a week out.
So.. turning the clean shop into a disaster area starts now. I'll empty that half of the bay, 550 sq ft of floor, drop a thick plastic barrier down the middle, mask off what I can't remove, and get to grinding while sucking rubber (full face respirator).
I'm sure this will be awesome when it's done. It's going to be a ton of work though.
Apparently I hit my head, hard. Because I decided I'd knock out flattening that bit of concrete. I started by pulling up tile to clear the work area. This is some of what I found.
I did a 2' square moisture test where you tape a chunk of plastic sheet to the floor, sealing all of the edges. Remove it 24 hours later and look for moisture. It came up bone dry. I'm getting some moisture, but I don't think it's coming through the slab. Most likely through the cracks in the floor. Not much moisture, but enough for some mold and funk to grow in some of the tiles in the three years since I put the tile down. It's not consistently everywhere and the photos are of the worst spots.
I spent the entirety of yesterday researching, running to town for supplies, talking to a lot of knowledgeable people on the subject and in general putting together a game plan. I need to get this done and the shop back together in a week.. ish.
I deliberated on a lot of different solutions. Epoxy coating the floor is not an option. It would be a TON of work to get it in a condition the epoxy would look even half *** good. I bought some epoxy to seal the existing cracks.
This is $160 in epoxy and associated applicator.
The plan:
- Thoroughly clean and dry the tiles.
- Vee cut the cracks, fill the bottom with epoxy
- Patch the rough concrete with RapidSet self leveler in the cracks and crevices
- RapidSet Cementall to get to a flat surface in the areas I'm patching and filling.
- Rent a proper concrete grinder and grind the entire surface - that half of the shop, with a 18 grit diamond
- Clean thoroughly
- Coat with DRYLOK Floor & Wall Masonry Waterproofer
- Let that cure for a couple days with the heat on rather high
- Lay the tiles back down
I considered a lot of options. There is such a tiny amount of moisture that I don't think the more expensive 2 part, 100% solids epoxy liquid vapor barrier products are necessary. They are about 4 times the cost of the Drylok and at least a week out.
So.. turning the clean shop into a disaster area starts now. I'll empty that half of the bay, 550 sq ft of floor, drop a thick plastic barrier down the middle, mask off what I can't remove, and get to grinding while sucking rubber (full face respirator).
I'm sure this will be awesome when it's done. It's going to be a ton of work though.
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I like the plan. Are you grinding the concrete to level it out or just to get down to fresher concrete for the Drylok?
I like the plan. Are you grinding the concrete to level it out or just to get down to fresher concrete for the Drylok?
Thank you for weighing in on the plan. Grinding is primarily to give the drylok an opportunity to work. Secondary to that, it will remove the 65+ years of dirt/dust/muck that’s ground into the surface of the concrete.
Currently hauling a trailer load of **** from the pallet rack down the street.
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One of the flooring guys suggested Deep Seal instead of the Drylok. I ordered seven gallons from Home Depot. The product videos make it look like it will do the trick.
Plenty of work to get to this point. And, I haven’t really started. Should have it emptied quickly in the morning. Then put plastic up to create a dust containment.
Plenty of work to get to this point. And, I haven’t really started. Should have it emptied quickly in the morning. Then put plastic up to create a dust containment.
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Long day. Got the rest of the tile up, cleaned, dried and stacked. Emptied the entire bay save for the pallet rack. Everything is masked off. Damn near an asbestos abatement enclosure. I’m wiped.
Beginning of the day:
Drying tile.
Picked up some X14 mildew stain remover. It helped with cleaning the tile. Sprayed it on the concrete, too.
I’ve had the 20’ x 100’ roll of 6 mil plastic since I put the tile down, just for this project. Didn’t plan on it being the whole shop though. I found varying amounts of mold/mildew/yuck in many areas. Will be giving the other half of the bay the same treatment in the future.
I cut the plastic about 6’ long. Worked out well.
Ready for the mess to begin tomorrow.
Beginning of the day:
Drying tile.
Picked up some X14 mildew stain remover. It helped with cleaning the tile. Sprayed it on the concrete, too.
I’ve had the 20’ x 100’ roll of 6 mil plastic since I put the tile down, just for this project. Didn’t plan on it being the whole shop though. I found varying amounts of mold/mildew/yuck in many areas. Will be giving the other half of the bay the same treatment in the future.
I cut the plastic about 6’ long. Worked out well.
Ready for the mess to begin tomorrow.
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Geeez...you're a machine. I would have been wiped about half way through what you did.
This is going to be some back breaking work. There’s a complete top layer of ground in dirt. I’m using a knotted wire wheel in a grinder to expose clean concrete so I can put the self leveler down. This is about an hours work.
This is the area I need leveled out so I can put the tile down. Hoping to get it cleaned up and ready for self leveler in the next few hours. Picking up the grinder tomorrow and would be good to know what material I need to pick up.
This is the area I need leveled out so I can put the tile down. Hoping to get it cleaned up and ready for self leveler in the next few hours. Picking up the grinder tomorrow and would be good to know what material I need to pick up.
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Azmule71
Well-known member
I Don't Envy This Job at All!! Hope It Turns Out How You Expect, Watching This Progress..
Long day working the floor by hand. The low viscosity epoxy gets into the cracks and appears to be sealing them up well.
I wore a twisted knot wire wheel down to almost nothing in the 4.5” angle grinder. Picking up the concrete grinder and vacuum from the rental company tomorrow. Excited to see how that goes. Once the surface is cleaned up I’ll get all of the cracks with the epoxy and start with the self leveler over this area.
I wore a twisted knot wire wheel down to almost nothing in the 4.5” angle grinder. Picking up the concrete grinder and vacuum from the rental company tomorrow. Excited to see how that goes. Once the surface is cleaned up I’ll get all of the cracks with the epoxy and start with the self leveler over this area.
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harley jim
Well-known member
Lots of work in an old floor but I know it will be perfect when you get done.
Happy new year Slodat
Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
Happy new year Slodat
Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
Happy New Year!!
Grinding concrete is no joke. I am completely drained. Holy **** that’s a lot of hard work. The rough surface of my floor probably doubles the effort, even with the dual head grinder. It’s producing a crazy amount of dust. I’ve dumped 13 gallons of fine dust/dirt from my dust deputy equipped shop vac. It’s doing a surprisingly good job sucking up the dust off the floor.
First section when I started yesterday.
This was about four hours of the grinder kicking my ***.
About five hours into the other side.
A good before after contrast.
That layer of dust is 1/2 - 3/4 thick.
Going to go over the whole floor again now that the high spots are knocked down and it’s actually grinding and not just beating the **** out of me. In retrospect, I’m thinking I could have made due with the ****** floor. I’ve bought into the tiles and want to use them. I believe the sealer will be able to get into the concrete now and the tile will lay better. Lots of spots to fill in once this mess is cleaned up. Still considering ideas on the really bad section in front of the door.
Grinding concrete is no joke. I am completely drained. Holy **** that’s a lot of hard work. The rough surface of my floor probably doubles the effort, even with the dual head grinder. It’s producing a crazy amount of dust. I’ve dumped 13 gallons of fine dust/dirt from my dust deputy equipped shop vac. It’s doing a surprisingly good job sucking up the dust off the floor.
First section when I started yesterday.
This was about four hours of the grinder kicking my ***.
About five hours into the other side.
A good before after contrast.
That layer of dust is 1/2 - 3/4 thick.
Going to go over the whole floor again now that the high spots are knocked down and it’s actually grinding and not just beating the **** out of me. In retrospect, I’m thinking I could have made due with the ****** floor. I’ve bought into the tiles and want to use them. I believe the sealer will be able to get into the concrete now and the tile will lay better. Lots of spots to fill in once this mess is cleaned up. Still considering ideas on the really bad section in front of the door.
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I almost wonder if it would just be better to demo that section and pour new. 
I almost wonder if it would just be better to demo that section and pour new.
Oh... it would be a LOT better.. alas, it is not at option at this time.
I’ve done all of the grinding I’m going to do this go round. Kept reminding myself the reason I’m grinding is so the sealer can absorb into the slab. That is back breaking work. I’m sure I’ll be sore for a solid week. Still a ton of handwork to do before I can seal up all of the cracks and apply the sealer. End of the day shots:
