Homemade electrolysis. What do you use?

[bagged89s10]

What about graphite for an anode?

Graphite is an excellent anode from what I hear.

 

[Fretters]

While we're on the topic of oily rags...

I've seen a few suggest to keep them in a sealed metal container to smother them from oxygen and contain any fire. Water wouldn't hurt either. I have no idea if this is correct but some people I trust have posted that and It makes sense to me!

The ammo box seems a decent solution. Other options would be something like the old 20L or so grease drums with the tag top lids, a gas canister, (once the contents are purged, obviously ), having the top cut off just below the top dome and then reattached with a hinge etc. Simplest option is to simply put the rags outside or burn them once used.

 

[Outlawmws]

That will do the job, but don't store it in the shop/Garage:

 

[Outlawmws]

On the topic of using lead and introducing copper wire into the liquid part of an Etank Setup, as has been mentioned several times in the last few pages; I'm NOT a fan:

Using scrap steel, rebar, CI or graphite you have a completely benign mess to deal with, so benign you can safely dump it on your lawn or garden (I'd keep any Lead paint out of that equation...):

Do any of you proponents of allowing lead or copper have lab tested proof your residues are free of "heavy metals"? The EPA, in the states at least, will crucify you if they catch you dumping heavy metal solutions and residues down the drain or onto the land, even your own.

With graphite or iron/steel/CI you don't have any chance of this happening.

I know some try to take the approach of "prove to me it's not safe"...

Bad Idea, and here is why: plating and chemical etching industries are heavily regulated for a reason: They DO produce waste that is loaded with heavy metals. I've been in too many companies that have had to pay through the nose for both fines and cleanup to ignore this. I know of one property that once belonged to a major US car company, and they sold those holdings over twenty years ago. Guess what? They still own that cleanup and monitoring for ground water contamination, and will in perpetuity, or until they can PROVE there is none left... Anyone want to have that bill?

So I'm putting the onus on you proponents: where is your proof? Not opinion, not some dude on the internet saying it's so, but hard proof?

Without that proof my advise for all, but especially the people just starting out is to just run your Etanks as safe as you can, and take no chances...

 

[Fretters]

With the lead, I did ditch that after the first test pieces were done because of what you suggest; The uncertainty of whether it's safe in solution or not. Copper on the cathode side connection though, I've still to find any proof that is not safe. Anode side, yes, it will dissolve into the solution if submerged, but cathode, nope. (This is overlooking the possibility of reversing connections accidentally else for cleaning the anodes, btw. )

 

[Outlawmws]

I'll argue that with the copper is their is no need: you don't need it for current carrying capacity and a roll of rebar Tie wire is dirt cheap and far cheaper than copper wire; a couple of bucks - super cheap and you can use it to hang smaller parts in suspension in the soup. Why even take any risk (even assuming you never accidentally reverse the leads); so why even add the slight possibility?

Etanks should be one of the "greenest" things we can do in an area that is rife with some of the least green things we can be involved with. The last thing I want to see is some knee jerk reaction and have them say "it's against the law for you to do this at home because we can't trust you untrained unprofessional amateurs not to Eff it up!"

Think that can't happen? guess again..

 

[Fretters]

I'm thinking we've had this discussion before. Still no argument with your logic from this end.

Anode side, I am cautious on. With regard the submerged copper wire issue on the cathode side though, I simply have shedloads of copper wire here, and have never yet had to replace even one piece due to to corrosion, thinning or such. All replacement pieces have simply been due to the copper work hardening and snapping after having been flexed and bent over multiple sessions.

However, I still do agree with you that the best approach in general is the conservative approach.

 

[Outlawmws]

I'm thinking we've had this discussion before. Still no argument with your logic from this end.

Yes we have!

 

[drivesitfar]

Outlaw and Fretters: when you both start talking about all this metal stuff i just sit back and try to soak up as much as i can and thanks for sharing. still not sure who is correct or if you both are, but knowledge is still there for all of us to ponder and think about.

DOC: any progress getting that old Parker apart? i know you were in my area seeing your kids and the sites and sorry i missed you. maybe next time.

 

[bagged89s10]

Here is my tank in progress. I threw Reed 404 in there fully assembled last night. This morning I took it all apart. The swivel pin popped right out with one light hit with a hammer and punch like tool. I decided to clean out the tank and clean the electrodes. I used my small parts basket which is perfect. Here it is in action.


https://vimeo.com/138894534

 

[bagged89s10]

Does anyone toss a scrap piece of steel in their e-tank, then reverse the polarity to clean the anodes? I thought about doing this versus wire brushing my anodes all the time.

 

[Fretters]

Does anyone toss a scrap piece of steel in their e-tank, then reverse the polarity to clean the anodes? I thought about doing this versus wire brushing my anodes all the time.

I know at least Outlaw' does. That's one of the reasons he avoids using copper connection wire at all costs, so that there's no risk of copper contamination when he reverses polarity to clean the anodes.

 

[bagged89s10]

I know at least Outlaw' does. That's one of the reasons he avoids using copper connection wire at all costs, so that there's no risk of copper contamination when he reverses polarity to clean the anodes.

Good deal. I'm doing that after the vise in my tank is done cooking. I only have copper on the outside of the tank. No copper close to anything that touches water.

 

[torqueman2002]

....
DOC: any progress getting that old Parker apart? i know you were in my area seeing your kids and the sites and sorry i missed you. maybe next time.

Nothing to report just yet.

I'll be sure to add an update in the v near future.

I hope to experiment with graphite, also.

I also, like the wealth of information.

 

[1/2 Cup]

I have been following this thread for some time now with keen interest and an E bath is something that I could make great use of.

I am having a crack at doing a solar powered one, not sure how it will turn out but I will give it a go.

The procurement:

1 - 90 watt 6 amp solar panel.
1 - Solar regulator. 20 amp 12, 24 & 48 volt selectable with digital display.

View media item 53563
Regards

 

[bagged89s10]

I have been following this thread for some time now with keen interest and an E bath is something that I could make great use of.



I am having a crack at doing a solar powered one, not sure how it will turn out but I will give it a go.



The procurement:



1 - 90 watt 6 amp solar panel.

1 - Solar regulator. 20 amp 12, 24 & 48 volt selectable with digital display.



View media item 53563


Regards

That seems like it would work. What does a setup like that cost?

 

[1/2 Cup]

That seems like it would work. What does a setup like that cost?

At a guess new the panel would be around AU $300 and the reg about AU $ 200

I was fortunate to score the panel for free it is second hand and about 4 years old. The reg was new old stock and has been replace by a newer model, an Ebay buy for $50.

Regards

 

[bagged89s10]

Who's using their e-tank indoors and is it safe?
I'm trying to figure out if I can use my e-tank in the basement during the winter where I have a large laundry sink to clean parts in after they cook.

 

[BlueBomber]

Who's using their e-tank indoors and is it safe?
I'm trying to figure out if I can use my e-tank in the basement during the winter where I have a large laundry sink to clean parts in after they cook.

E-tanks produce both hydrogen and oxygen as part of the electrolysis process. It would take some pretty unique circumstances for enough hydrogen to collect in one place sufficiently to be dangerous. I have my bath inside my garage, but I do keep the window cracked next to it.

 

[BlueBomber]

At a guess new the panel would be around AU $300 and the reg about AU $ 200

I was fortunate to score the panel for free it is second hand and about 4 years old. The reg was new old stock and has been replace by a newer model, an Ebay buy for $50.

Regards

Let us know how that works out. Free rust removal/reversal would be pretty cool...

 

[1/2 Cup]

Let us know how that works out. Free rust removal/reversal would be pretty cool...

Will do, still getting all the bits together and is not a real high priority at the moment.

 

[Craptain]

Who's using their e-tank indoors and is it safe?
I'm trying to figure out if I can use my e-tank in the basement during the winter where I have a large laundry sink to clean parts in after they cook.

Mine is inside but it's a decent sized warehouse so plenty of air around. Just remember that the hydrogen is much lighter than air and will find the highest level. How much hydrogen depends on how much current and how often you use it.

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk

 

[SeattleKent]

Who's using their e-tank indoors and is it safe?
I'm trying to figure out if I can use my e-tank in the basement during the winter where I have a large laundry sink to clean parts in after they cook.

I do all my electrolysis in a three car garage. It is not well sealed so I do not leave a door or window open. Not sure if I am good or just lucky.

Went through a similar thought process with building a spray booth. Do I need an explosion proof fan? Searched the net for spray booth explosion and found tons of them. Broke down and spent the bucks for the good fan.

Searched the web for electrolysis explosions and found almost nothing. Decided it was probably safe enough to do in the garage.

Obviously, YMMV.

 

[SeattleKent]

I am having a crack at doing a solar powered one, not sure how it will turn out but I will give it a go.

Neat idea. I wonder if the electrolysis will work during the day then things would rust back up at night when there is no current.

 

[bagged89s10]

I do all my electrolysis in a three car garage. It is not well sealed so I do not leave a door or window open. Not sure if I am good or just lucky.



Went through a similar thought process with building a spray booth. Do I need an explosion proof fan? Searched the net for spray booth explosion and found tons of them. Broke down and spent the bucks for the good fan.



Searched the web for electrolysis explosions and found almost nothing. Decided it was probably safe enough to do in the garage.



Obviously, YMMV.

I guess my garage is probably a better idea than my basement. My garage is not insulated or airtight. Maybe I'll drop the voltage down. I just don't want the solution to freeze.

 

[torqueman2002]

Update on the RED Parker 52.

It's out of the soup, 99% free of rust and paint.

Before.

Now.

I like the Kroil finish look, maybe I'll keep it 'naked'!

Thanks for looking.

Comments and suggestions are welcome.

More detail. --> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5140677&posted=1#post5140677

 

[taumac]

I guess my garage is probably a better idea than my basement. My garage is not insulated or airtight. Maybe I'll drop the voltage down. I just don't want the solution to freeze.

I don't know if should be done in garage. I know the process produces hydrogen. The amount would be determined on voltage. Somewhat related is that I saw people making hydrogen systems that would run a vehicle. In one video guy took hose off that feed a carb like intake and lite it and it produce a flame. Of course our systems don't run at those voltage and amps but I wouldn't take a chance. Easy way for solution not to freeze would be a small water feature pump and just move the water. Moving water is unlikely to freeze on you.

 

[SeattleKent]

Update on the RED Parker 32.

It's out of the soup, 99% free of rust and paint.

Great pictures. Thanks for sharing.

The last little bits of paint are already loose, they just need a little encouragement. Hit it with a sand blaster. A couple of seconds in each of the corners will clear out the last little bit of paint.

 

[drivesitfar]

Doc: i guess we don't have to talk any more about whether it is a Pink Parker or a Red one now. sure you can use the sand blaster since you have one maybe with glass beads to get the little paint off that is left in a few of the corners or a dremel tool works good too.

did you loosen the jaw pins? are you planning on taking them all the way out so you can shine up the jaws? look at the vise repair 101 thread or the main vise thread and you'll see how Bagged just finished a set of Parker jaws with a mirror finish in case you really want to shine them up.

looks like you got the swivel jaw to move so congrats.

Kroil is pretty expensive to use as a rust inhibitor, but if you don't have boiled linseed oil that works. some guys are even using shoe polish. if you do happen to use BLO you can paint right over it if you want a color later.

nice work and how long did it stay in the E bath??

 

[1/2 Cup]

I fitted up the regulator to the solar panel and fired up the unit today.

I am using the switched load out put for the E tank, next the tank and stand.

View media item 53650
Regards

 

[torqueman2002]

Great pictures. Thanks for sharing.

The last little bits of paint are already loose, they just need a little encouragement. Hit it with a sand blaster. A couple of seconds in each of the corners will clear out the last little bit of paint.

Thanks SeattleK, I do like using my sandblaster.

I'm also itching to use some Aircraft paint remover/stripper that Amazon just delivered.

Aw, decisions decisions ....

 

[torqueman2002]

Thanks drives, I'll reply in Pink below.

Doc: i guess we don't have to talk any more about whether it is a Pink Parker or a Red one now. ....
did you loosen the jaw pins? are you planning on taking them all the way out so you can shine up the jaws? look at the vise repair 101 thread or the main vise thread and you'll see how Bagged just finished a set of Parker jaws with a mirror finish in case you really want to shine them up.
Thanks for the tip, they are loose and the jaws come off. I'm thinking, I'd like straight jaws too. I may get some made up when I get a tapered pin, bottom base, ....

looks like you got the swivel jaw to move so congrats.


Kroil is pretty expensive to use as a rust inhibitor, but if you don't have boiled linseed oil that works. some guys are even using shoe polish. if you do happen to use BLO you can paint right over it if you want a color later.
I do have BLO, but the Kroil was handy, and the BLO was in the basement, sooo ....

nice work and how long did it stay in the E bath??
I started timing it with the clock, then made a trip to Seattle, I switched it back ON when I returned, rested, and had some minor surgery w/ more resting, so I wound-up timing it with a calendar. 7 - 10 days.
Much longer than necessary.

 

[Craptain]

Thanks SeattleK, I do like using my sandblaster.

I'm also itching to use some Aircraft paint remover/stripper that Amazon just delivered.

Aw, decisions decisions ....

IF you sandblast be very gentle. It is effective but also tends to damage the surface if overdone. Bead blasting is a better option, or as you are now properly equipped, stripper.
Good luck.

 

[Outlawmws]

Great pictures. Thanks for sharing.

The last little bits of paint are already loose, they just need a little encouragement. Hit it with a sand blaster. A couple of seconds in each of the corners will clear out the last little bit of paint.

Thanks SeattleK, I do like using my sandblaster.

I'm also itching to use some Aircraft paint remover/stripper that Amazon just delivered.

Aw, decisions decisions ....

Sandblasting tools needs to be approach with extreme care (or fear and loathing...) . if you are leaving the traditional sand blast "patina", many will simply walk away from the tool/part. (with VERY few exceptions, I'm one of them...)

 

[Outlawmws]

Update on the RED Parker 32.

It's out of the soup, 99% free of rust and paint.

Before.

Now.

I like the Kroil finish look, maybe I'll keep it 'naked'!

Thanks for looking.

Comments and suggestions are welcome.

More detail. --> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5140677&posted=1#post5140677

That is SO cool! I want one!

 

[Outlawmws]

I have been following this thread for some time now with keen interest and an E bath is something that I could make great use of.

I am having a crack at doing a solar powered one, not sure how it will turn out but I will give it a go.

The procurement:

1 - 90 watt 6 amp solar panel.
1 - Solar regulator. 20 amp 12, 24 & 48 volt selectable with digital display.

View media item 53563
Regards

Now that's an interesting approach! I like!

Question:

"90 watt 6 amp solar panel." at what voltage?

I'll be following this one for sure!

 

[SeattleKent]

Sandblasting tools needs to be approach with extreme care (or fear and loathing...) . if you are leaving the traditional sand blast "patina", many will simply walk away from the tool/part. (with VERY few exceptions, I'm one of them...)

Agreed. Fortunately, after the electrolysis you only need to hit it for a second or two.

 

[1/2 Cup]

Now that's an interesting approach! I like!

Question:

"90 watt 6 amp solar panel." at what voltage?

I'll be following this one for sure!

Outlawmws, The panel is a Sunpower unit its open circuit voltage is about 17 VDC from memory.

I will keep you updated as I progress.

 

[1/2 Cup]

Tinkering around in the shed last night and managed to get a bit more done on the Solar Powered Electrolysis Bath


View media item 53805
The tub is about 60 lt ( 16 us gal ) and should suit most of my needs.

After reading what seamed like every thread on the GJ in relation to Electrolysis Rust removal a couple of things really stood out.

1. Stating the obvious... They produce hydrogen, it goes bang big time. So the focus is on all the electrical connections in and around the tub.

2. Good electrical continuity is paramount to a successful process.

3. I will be using plate steel in lieu of rebar for the anodes on either sides of the tub and the reason behind this is to provide a greater surface area, much like a battery plate.

4. I intend to measure the resistance of brew across the item to be derusted and the anode, voltage and current to find out the optimum settings. Given that it is solar powered there is also some settings on the reg I can play with.

5. I have used rebar tie wire from the negative link to connect to the work piece. This also poses another question, a good connection to your piece will also help the process along.

That's all for now, out to the shed to make some anodes.

Have a good one guys.

 

[bagged89s10]

I picked up a charger for my etank for $9 this weekend. Now I can give my father his charger back. Is it better to use the lower 6 volt setting for an e-tank versus 12 volt?