Maxjax Installs: Post Here
- Thread starter G-force
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jonesg
Well-known member
2 problems, I'd fall asleep and using a breaker bar is difficult with full castering wheels.
That can be solved with caffeine and brakes on the wheels =)
Hmm good point. I have locking casters on mine, but only because that’s what was on Amazon. They are east to lock by hand.
Got around to shortening my harbor freight oil catch. I had a big dent in the piece I cut out, other wise I would just cut the end cap off
. Conveniently I had lent my shielding gas bottle to a friend so I ended up using 6011, been a minute since I had to use those sparklers. But it held water and vacuum so she’s good to go.
JRC3
Well-known member
Sweet. Thought about one of the HF oil catchers but I can't weld and didn't have a welder so here was my easier/cheaper version. Also serves as an oil extractor for mowers and such. I love the 6g blue totes to take used oil and antifreeze to the county.
Got around to shortening my harbor freight oil catch. I had a big dent in the piece I cut out, other wise I would just cut the end cap off
Conveniently I had lent my shielding gas bottle to a friend so I ended up using 6011, been a minute since I had to use those sparklers. But it held water and vacuum so she’s good to go.
zachicusmaximus
New member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2024
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- 3
So I received my MaxJax M7K a bit ago and did all the concrete reinforcements. I'll post pictures later. I bought some Wej-It PS2-58 epoxy anchors from Stanley Supply since I'm a cheap *** and they're the cheapest vendor I could find. The threading was pretty bad so I first contacted Wej-It to see what to do about it, but turns out the bolts that I was using provided from MaxJax that were supposed to be 5/8-11 were not. Once I had a real 5/8-11 bolt it threaded OK, and was just a bit crusty. The threads to the eye look not great but it's probably just a worn out tap. I spoke with the owner of Wej-It / Toggler and he said they have stopped working with MaxJax so it is normal to not receive Wej-It products with our MaxJax accessories. Also he said they do not supply to Stanley Supply so he's unsure of where they're getting them or if they're knock-offs.
So as we've suspected MaxJax have definitely started supplying chinese knock-offs or "equivalents" for these products. That said, I would DEFINITELY NOT buy the epoxy anchor kit from MaxJax as you do not know what you're getting. Wedge anchors probably are a fairly understood science but I feel really sketched out that they'd not indicate a brand name on the epoxy anchors on their site. Considering you literally cannot find any epoxy anchors of the same type on the internet from any other brand, they have to be sourcing them from the shadiest suppliers.
Edit: Stanley Supply is OK and the anchors they sent were legit. They're old stock as Wej-It hasn't been one of their vendors for 4 years according to Toggler. The date on the box is 2018, so that checks out. So it is probably OK to order from them if they still have them. Probably wouldn't get the epoxy from them though, as it's probably past its shelf life by this point.
So as we've suspected MaxJax have definitely started supplying chinese knock-offs or "equivalents" for these products. That said, I would DEFINITELY NOT buy the epoxy anchor kit from MaxJax as you do not know what you're getting. Wedge anchors probably are a fairly understood science but I feel really sketched out that they'd not indicate a brand name on the epoxy anchors on their site. Considering you literally cannot find any epoxy anchors of the same type on the internet from any other brand, they have to be sourcing them from the shadiest suppliers.
Edit: Stanley Supply is OK and the anchors they sent were legit. They're old stock as Wej-It hasn't been one of their vendors for 4 years according to Toggler. The date on the box is 2018, so that checks out. So it is probably OK to order from them if they still have them. Probably wouldn't get the epoxy from them though, as it's probably past its shelf life by this point.
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They switched to metric (M16) at least 4 years ago. It is a bit ridiculous that even the M7K manual, dated 2022, still says 5/8-11.
I'm not sure I'd agree that the epoxy anchors are shady garbage because they are no longer sourced from Wej-It.
I am moving my lift to a new shop I built (if it ever passes all the damn inspections argh). I got the maxjax expoxy anchor kit but I'm using the Simpson Strong-Tie SET3G22-N - High-Strength Epoxy Adhesive instead of the stuff that came with the anchors in the box. I've used cheap epoxy from home depot and the current anchors have held 100 ft/lbs for the last 8 years (I periodically check them) .
The anchors look good, I've used epoxy anchors before on the lift, and it's been great for the last 8 years. I will now have to check the damn threads as I bought class 5 bolts 5/8 -11 but haven't checked if the anchors have changed, I assumed they were the usual 5/8-11 which it shows in the instructions, they also say torque to 60 ft/lbs, not 90 ft/lbs for these anchors..
I currently have the pump mounted to the wall but when I move it I want to mount it to a column, think I'm just going to hang the plate of it with spacer like I saw in another thread.
The anchors look good, I've used epoxy anchors before on the lift, and it's been great for the last 8 years. I will now have to check the damn threads as I bought class 5 bolts 5/8 -11 but haven't checked if the anchors have changed, I assumed they were the usual 5/8-11 which it shows in the instructions, they also say torque to 60 ft/lbs, not 90 ft/lbs for these anchors..
I currently have the pump mounted to the wall but when I move it I want to mount it to a column, think I'm just going to hang the plate of it with spacer like I saw in another thread.
zachicusmaximus
New member
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- Jan 12, 2024
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That's beyond ridiculous. Even in the anchor box manual and website it says 5/8-11. As I didn't have anything to compare against and it looked about right I was very confused when they didn't fit the Wej-It epoxy anchors. I will continue to be sketched about the anchors until they say who they source them from or provide an accurate datasheet. If all documentation doesn't even have one of the most important dimensions (bolt size) listed correctly, then I don't trust them.
zachicusmaximus
New member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2024
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Here's my concrete reinforcement. I followed the guidelines for the Bendpak lifts as I couldn't find the MaxJax specific one. It called for I think a bit wider than the lift base, 48" wide, and 12" deep. With rebar spaced at 6" and 8" OC. It was a beast of a job, haha. Got it home using my E36 and a Harbor Freight trailer. They had me back up inside of the Lowes to forklift it on.
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I bought my MaxJax lift in 2020 in September and it was out of stock so I didn't get in until January of 2021 but mine came with SAE bolts. That said, my were not epoxy anchors. When I install the lift at my current house, I will be using epoxy anchors this time around.
So now I'm confused about these epoxy anchors and may have to go back to wedge anchors.
I have a maxjax MX6 which states 4" concrete at 3000 psi or greater
I have 4.5" concrete slab with rebar and fiberglass, 5000 PSI.
The wedge anchors are 3 3/16" long
The epoxy anchors are 6.5" long
I have two choices.
1) Use the wedge anchors like I did last time. I ended up having to use some epoxy as one hole was reamed a little, and they have held for 8 years at 100 PSI torque.
2) Use the epoxy anchors by drilling through the slab, blocking the bottom, fill 2/3 with epoxy then twisting and hammer the epoxy anchor in
The instructions with the epoxy anchors say nothing about the fact that 2" of the anchor will be in the dirt instead of in the concrete.
I couldn't find a thread or anywhere where someone has installed the epoxy anchors in a slab "regular" slab, I did find a thread where wejit said not to use 6.5 epoxy anchors in a 4" slab , these are maxjax anchors not wej-it but they do look like they copied them
I have a maxjax MX6 which states 4" concrete at 3000 psi or greater
I have 4.5" concrete slab with rebar and fiberglass, 5000 PSI.
The wedge anchors are 3 3/16" long
The epoxy anchors are 6.5" long
I have two choices.
1) Use the wedge anchors like I did last time. I ended up having to use some epoxy as one hole was reamed a little, and they have held for 8 years at 100 PSI torque.
2) Use the epoxy anchors by drilling through the slab, blocking the bottom, fill 2/3 with epoxy then twisting and hammer the epoxy anchor in
The instructions with the epoxy anchors say nothing about the fact that 2" of the anchor will be in the dirt instead of in the concrete.
I couldn't find a thread or anywhere where someone has installed the epoxy anchors in a slab "regular" slab, I did find a thread where wejit said not to use 6.5 epoxy anchors in a 4" slab , these are maxjax anchors not wej-it but they do look like they copied them
The M7K installation manual has a spec that I followed for my M6K.
I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with it, but here is an example of the epoxy anchors in a thinner slab - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/maxjax-installed.303441/#post-5124746
So decided to check the threads in the maxjax epoxy anchors, the instructions state they are 5/8 - 11 and I bought some class 5 bolts. But when I tested they stopped threading after 1/4 “. So tested with different bolts and they are 16mm x 2.0. Grrrr.
So going to pickup some M16 x 2.0 x 40mm bolts now
So going to pickup some M16 x 2.0 x 40mm bolts now
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alan camby
Well-known member
Maxjax goes on sale starting today.
I will post my install here in a few months. I have to wait the 28 days for the concrete footers.
I will post my install here in a few months. I have to wait the 28 days for the concrete footers.
Does anybody know what the actual, physical difference between the new M7K and the older, post-Dannmar M6K that allows the extra 1,000 lb capacity? Their website simply says "Our engineers found a way to let you safely lift up to 7,000 lbs." I called up Bendpak and Maxjax product specialists to inquire further and got varying answers from "bigger hydraulic cylinders and arms", to "thicker columns". Nobody seemed really confident or certain of their answers, and they both kept things pretty vague. Looking at the owner's manuals, the part numbers for all of the mentioned components are identical between the two. The only differences I noted in the specifications is the lifting height lost a 1/2" and the minimum height gained a 1/4" with this "new design". Another thing I noticed was the M7K isn't, as of this time, ALI certified. There is a placeholder in the manual, so it's possible it's in the works, but they no longer use it as an advertising point on their website. Some resaler's still claim it is certified, but if you look at ALI's database the only Maxjax currently listed is the M6K.
With that being said, I'm just genuinely curious. Being a current owner of an M6K, it would be nice to be able to gain that extra 1K for some of my bigger vehicles. Seeing as there doesn't seem to be much of a difference on paper, I asked if there were some parts like arms, cylinders, etc. I could buy to convert mine over to the higher capacity. The rep wasn't sure in the initial call, but commented it was a great question and said he would look into it. When he called me back yesterday with an answer he simply said "No, it's just completely different and there's no way to convert it." and then promptly mentioned the Valentine's Day sale and tried to sell me a brand new one. I get it, they're a business and their goal is to sell units. That being said, you would think that if they managed to squeeze an extra thousand pounds out of their equipment with some engineering, they would make the re-design clear on their website. That's exactly what they did when they bought out Dannmar. They went out of their way to spell out every individual change they made - gussets, longer baseplate, better wheels, locks etc. With the M7K there's none of that, and it's still clear as mud after talking to them directly. This is what makes me skeptical. If someone can show me the numbers or physical differences I would happily eat my words, and would even seriously consider buying the updated model. If I'm being completely honest it sounds more like some creative marketing than actual engineering, though.
With that being said, I'm just genuinely curious. Being a current owner of an M6K, it would be nice to be able to gain that extra 1K for some of my bigger vehicles. Seeing as there doesn't seem to be much of a difference on paper, I asked if there were some parts like arms, cylinders, etc. I could buy to convert mine over to the higher capacity. The rep wasn't sure in the initial call, but commented it was a great question and said he would look into it. When he called me back yesterday with an answer he simply said "No, it's just completely different and there's no way to convert it." and then promptly mentioned the Valentine's Day sale and tried to sell me a brand new one. I get it, they're a business and their goal is to sell units. That being said, you would think that if they managed to squeeze an extra thousand pounds out of their equipment with some engineering, they would make the re-design clear on their website. That's exactly what they did when they bought out Dannmar. They went out of their way to spell out every individual change they made - gussets, longer baseplate, better wheels, locks etc. With the M7K there's none of that, and it's still clear as mud after talking to them directly. This is what makes me skeptical. If someone can show me the numbers or physical differences I would happily eat my words, and would even seriously consider buying the updated model. If I'm being completely honest it sounds more like some creative marketing than actual engineering, though.
Just want to clarify, I LOVE this lift and have had it for 4 years without any major issues. The folks at Bendpak have been good to me and really helped me out when Dannmar went insolvent after my original order was placed. Hell, I like it so much I would seriously consider buying it again! I would just like to have a little more transparency on the differences before I shell out another 3-4 grand for what seems like basically the same thing I already have. If anyone has the new M7K I would be really interested in comparing measurements.
Sorry if this is the wrong place for this, maybe it would have been better off as a new post... This thread is already a pretty comprehensive list of information on these lifts, so I figured it might be a good place to put it.
Sorry if this is the wrong place for this, maybe it would have been better off as a new post... This thread is already a pretty comprehensive list of information on these lifts, so I figured it might be a good place to put it.
This lines up with my experience calling them about MaxJax. They really don't know the product itself very well. They don't know the total capacity of hydraulic system. They list the total capacity as the capacity of the reservoir which is obviously not the total capacity, I could ***** about other stuff as well but I won't. Overall, its been a good product.
alan camby
Well-known member
Alan,
Glad you spell your name correctly. Lol.
I just got the M7k on Monday. The bolt pattern for the base hasn't changes since 2010. The first few months of production in 2010 has a slightly smaller bolt pattern. They changed it mid year then never changed it again. They moved the base plate back 1.5" or the column forward, however you want to think about it. I think that was done with the Bendpack redesign on the M6K.
The plate is still the same outside dimensions also.
Let me know if you want me to measure anything. I can measure the gauge of the columns or whatever. Like you, I can't figure out what changed from the 6k to the 7K. I have never seen the 6K In person but have seen plenty of pictures.
What state do you live in? I am in Indiana. Would be cool to see the 6K.
Attached are a few random pictures of my lift.
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Haha I'm glad you agree, I have a buddy who spells his with two Ls and an E and he's insistent his is the right way! Thanks for taking the time to send those pics. I'm in Michigan, otherwise I'd be interested in seeing the 7K in person as well. I'll take some pics with measurements and send them in a few.
I didn't know that about the smaller bolt pattern, that's interesting. Maybe I'm crazy but I swear I remember someone on the forums way back mentioning the original Dannmar was de-rated from 7,000 to 6,000 lbs... maybe to make certification? I have no way to prove this... All I know is the original Maxjax base model wasn't ALI certified but the more expensive Dannmar M6 was. That was the model I originally ordered, but it was never fulfilled due to Dannmar kicking the bucket. I believe the baseplate changes were done during the initial Bendpak redesign for the M6K.
If you're interested you can use the internet archive "wayback machine" and look at the "compare" tab on maxjax.com back in 2020. Put it side-by-side with today's maxjax.com and the changes shown from the Dannmar model are almost identical. The pictures are even the same! The only difference in verbiage I could see is they changed the model name to M7K, and the ALI certification gold label part is missing. They don't show any further changes from the M6K to the M7K anywhere on their website. Maybe the updates they made back in 2020 after the Bendpak acquisition were enough to bump it up to the higher capacity? I wonder if they did some more testing and realized they could bump it up and just re-marketed it as a new model instead of trying to retroactively raise the lifting capacity on the older models for liability reasons.
If you have the ceiling height and the means I'd go for it! Asymmetric is the way to go. No more door dings lol
isb cornbinder
Well-known member
Tell me about your IHC. I have a few.I got everything bled and working. It took 8 qts of ATF rather than the 7 qts the manual stated. It lifted nice and even and had minimal air to bleed out. The install was done by myself from start to finish.
Danmar customer service was great through the whole process. I had some items damaged during shipping and Gabe sent out replacements right away, free of charge with no questions asked.
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alan camby
Well-known member
I measured everything you took a picture of and everything is the same on mine.
My columns are .228" thick. Is that the same on yours?
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Since I need to move it from the old house... and will need to drill holes in the new garage. What anchors are you all using these days?
I might have answered my own question...
I might have answered my own question...
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KamiCrit
Well-known member
If you have a slab that can accommodate the 5-3/4" anchor length then yeah. Epoxy is king.
Although zachicusmaximus has ran into difficulties with the MaxJax kit. I'd hit up Hilit and look at their offerings.
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Yes. I asked for 6” slab @4,000psi
Yeah, I got essentially the same. Measured it in a couple different spots and it was between .220-.230. Baseplate seems to be about 5/8" thick and the ram is about 1/2".
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I take this back... I couldn't find any info in the Wayback Machine or the forums to support it. Looks like it's always been 6K lbs up until recently.
alan camby
Well-known member
Here is the 2010 baseplate. You can see in the notes how the plate changed the same year slightly early on to the current size.
My plate is 16mm (or 5/8") thick.
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At least you all have the newer design with better spaced lift locks… I only have the bars. Mine is from the first group buy… I would love to have the latest updates…
Although, with the higher ceiling now, does not matter…
Only thing that would make it have higher capacity is a different hydraulic cylinder…since you are all finding the structure to be the same..
Although, with the higher ceiling now, does not matter…
Only thing that would make it have higher capacity is a different hydraulic cylinder…since you are all finding the structure to be the same..
alan camby
Well-known member
My cylinder has a OD of about 2.367"
Not necessarily the same bore but I doubt they could be much different if the OD of the cylinder is the same.
Everything is looking the same. It is possible that the carriage has larger pins for the uhmw plastic slides. Or maybe the pins are spaced further apart.
My Pivot pins for the yellow arms is 1.5" diameter.
Not necessarily the same bore but I doubt they could be much different if the OD of the cylinder is the same.
Everything is looking the same. It is possible that the carriage has larger pins for the uhmw plastic slides. Or maybe the pins are spaced further apart.
My Pivot pins for the yellow arms is 1.5" diameter.
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M6K arm pivot pins are 1.5" as well. I got 2.39" OD and 1.5" ID for the cylinder
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![KIMG0543[1].JPG](/forum/data/attachments/1902/1902790-c55bc055bccc253e7b532de1c1df00e5.jpg)
![KIMG0544[1].JPG](/forum/data/attachments/1902/1902791-c9b7be03335c41d070619d09e69bfb0b.jpg)
![KIMG0545[1].JPG](/forum/data/attachments/1902/1902792-124b5310841006b4cabf5d09bd04fd43.jpg)
That's what I would think too, but it specifies the same part number of 5502043 in both the M6K and M7K manuals. Doesn't necessarily mean they didn't update the part, but I would think they would designate a new number to avoid confusion with people ordering parts for the different models.
alan camby
Well-known member
Don't lift 7k lbs on a 6k lb rated lift.
I am going to make a big assumption and say they are the same. The assumption is that the M6K did so well on the ALI testing that they decided to change the rating to 7k lbs to appeal to more customers. Rating them for 7k lbs would mean they would have to pay again to get the lifts certified. I looked at these lifts many years ago and decided it wasn't for me as I wanted to lift 1/2 ton trucks with no problem.
When I heard they were making a 7k version, the Maxjax definitely interested me.
As mentioned, part numbers seem to be the same. So far, we have been unable to find anything different, besides a few stickers.
See attached for examples of some key parts.
With all that said. Don't ever use a lift past it's rated capacity. The sticker on your lift should indicate the capacity of your lift.
