Raising the Rat Shack

[Platonic Solid]

Once I finish cleaning out as much stuff as possible from the 1940s era 12x24 garage pictured (more pics in my roof thread (linked) I’m going to take a shot at raising it at least 6 inches, maybe more. Over the last 80 years it has sunk at least 6 inches into the ground.

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To the best of my knowledge it is built like a mini pole barn with the poles just sitting in dirt = no sill plate or foundation. I’ll have to dig down in one spot to see what’s really there (or not there). There is a wood floor that is just large tongue and grove planks placed on dirt = not connected to the structure (or each other for that matter). I’ll post interior pictures when I have enough stuff out to see what’s really going on. I know I shouldn’t have done the roof first, but that’s too late now, so my goal is to move the whole structure up while maintaining the messed up roof and ridge lines. I’ll write that off as “character” and aim for a “Rat Shack” look. I’ll put up some collar ties to keep the roof stable.

I have read several threads here that deal with somewhat similar scenarios, but most are now suffering from lack of pictures due to the photobucket fiasco:

fergus - Gotta fix my (leaning/derelict) garage!!! (no pics)
Talonslair - Leaning Tower of Piece-A-.... (no pics)
Falcon67 - Older garage/shed save (has pics)
tyrenta - 1940's post/beam garage with sagging ridge and 2-3" wall bow (has pics)

So far I’m thinking of Qty.7 of the Ellis Light Duty Steel Lifting Shore STL-22 (linked)

each with STL-JHD double joist holder U-head adaptor (linked).

Total cost = $1085. (I wouldn’t even consider this if I didn’t also need these jacks for a repair project on my house.) I’m also not willing to consider using bottle jacks as I expect the building to be raised for about 2 weeks (which probably means 4) as I can only work on this part time and the location is not at my primary residence.

I’m thinking sistered 2x6 or 2x8 boards screwed to all posts with #12 6 in. TimberLok Truss Screws (linked) attached about 2 ft up on perimeter of 3 walls. 1 jack near each corner and one jack on center of each of 3 walls. All done from the interior structure and I don’t see any reason to dig around the entire perimeter. Does this sound realistic?
.

 

[SteveCh]

Maybe. Worth a try. Sort of will depend on how much, if any, rot there is with that lumber sitting on the soil. If most of it is in decent shape, sounds like it's a plan.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Once I finish cleaning out as much stuff as possible from the 1940s era 12x24 garage pictured .......I’m going to take a shot at raising it at least 6 inches, maybe more. Over the last 80 years it has sunk at least 6 inches into the ground.

I’m thinking sistered 2x6 or 2x8 boards screwed to all posts with #12 6 in. TimberLok Truss Screws (linked) attached about 2 ft up on perimeter of 3 walls. 1 jack near each corner and one jack on center of each of 3 walls. All done from the interior structure and I don’t see any reason to dig around the entire perimeter. Does this sound realistic?
.

If I understand what youre proposing you'll put the 2x's alongSIDE of the poles "2ft up on the perimeter" then what?

You'll cut off the poles-or what's left of them? I can't imagine the poles aren't very compromised from 80 years in dirt.

Are you thinking you will use some sort of foundation after this operation? Concrete block? Cast concrete? Some way of replacing the now-rotted poles? Because those fasteners will be in shear and it would be best if the structure is supported another way.

 

[egdede]

Those are shoring supports not jacks. They can support big loads, but are not designed to raise loads. Search the term 'basement jack' for a much cheaper alternative.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I'd go with cheap bottle jacks, and then simply use wood blocking to support the structure when you're not actually working on it. You can then take the jacks out altogether.

 

[matt_i]

A potential problem is if the posts are shallow-buried you are reducing the ground contact by 6". The posts bear the tipover moment for cantilevering the walls perpendicular to the ground. This would be in addition to the condition of the wood (as mentioned above), the max bending stress in a cantilever is right at the support, eg right at the plane of the ground. So if you pull the post up 6" and its been ravaged by powder post beetles i think you have a new more serious problem.

For me it would be either tear out and renew, or, if the permitting journey is too much, simply start a quiet, methodical project to rebuild it from the inside out in many stages under the auspices of "repairs".

 

[kbs2244]

It sounds like you are planning on putting a rim of 2x6 around the inside, screwed to the studs , and then jacking the rim up to raise the whole thing.
It has been done many times.
Just remember to "X" brace the big door opening.

I have seen both cheap bottle jacks and the extra long< 4 x 4, bumper jacks used.
Have plenty of cribbing on hand to support it as it goes up.
And set it down onto the cribbing for any over an hour breaks.
You cannot trust the jacks/screws to hold the weight overnight.

One foot pieces of bed frame angle iron will keep the jacks from chewing up the rim boards.

 

[Platonic Solid]

I was there today collecting my 2nd truckload of **** = nine 20+ year old tires, an old dryer, a heavy as s#it cast iron bathtub … Upon closer inspection of the building, without digging (yet), I believe the whole thing is sitting on rotten horizontal 4x6 beams in the ground. That puts a crimp in my plan as I was going to put the jacks under the sistered 2x8s, which puts the base of the jack right on the sill plate. That’s obviously not going to work. I was really hoping to avoid digging, but that’s not sounding likely. So I guess I’ll have to use full 12ft long horizontal 4x4s under & perpendicular (running from left wall to right wall) to the sistered 2x6s (or 2x8?) to permit me to move the jacks a little away from the sill plates. I'm trying to avoid poking holes through the walls and jacking from outside.

Type of jack: The Ellis lifting shore with bearings inside the wing nut has got to be easier and better than jack posts. My problem with the bottle jack method is I’m not sure I trust 7 bottle jacks holding the building up while I either put cribbing in place or make some kind of foundation.

After I’ve lifted this thing, (assuming the whole thing doesn't come crashing down on me) I was thinking I’d follow most of theoldwizard1’s advice from the roof thread (see below) except I want to lift the whole thing at one time and leave it there while I replace the rotten sill plate and likely rotten posts.

IMHO, ANY amount of money to fix the roof is a waste without doing something about the lack of foundation and the obviously now rotten wood in contact with the dirt. If it is only going to be there for a year or so, cover it with a blue plastic tarp.

If you want to see this thing last more than just a couple more years you don't need a full foundation but the is a lot you can do.

• Jack up one side so that it is a couple inches off the ground. Brace the other sides so they don't move.
• Cut off about 1-2' of the rotten studs along with the rotten bottom plate.
• Lay down a PT 2x8 that is the complete length of that side. You could also use some double 5/4 PT deck boards that are shorter so you can splice the with at least a 1/3 overlap. Add/remove dirt to make this level. You could also use a couple of additional non-PT 2x8 on top of the PT 2x8 to cover the splice and to move the whole structure up from grade 4-6".
• Cut 2x4 to go under each stud that you cut off. Nail 1by on both sides of the existing stud and to the new "extension" down to the new plate so that it can not "kickout".
• Toe nail the built up stud to the plate
• You should use hot dipped galvanized or stainless nails on PT wood.

Far from perfect, but with some extra bracing in the corner (AFTER you have made the walls plumb and square) it will likely stand for a long time.

I will need to add extra support posts as it currently only has 6 (3 per wall, 12 ft apart), which is the cause of the roof dip.
.

 

[Platonic Solid]

It sounds like you are planning on putting a rim of 2x6 around the inside, screwed to the studs , and then jacking the rim up to raise the whole thing.
It has been done many times.
Just remember to "X" brace the big door opening.

I have seen both cheap bottle jacks and the extra long< 4 x 4, bumper jacks used.
Have plenty of cribbing on hand to support it as it goes up.
And set it down onto the cribbing for any over an hour breaks.
You cannot trust the jacks/screws to hold the weight overnight.

One foot pieces of bed frame angle iron will keep the jacks from chewing up the rim boards.

Got it - set building down on cribbing while I fix the sill and posts. Thank you. 7 bottle jacks still sounds rather precarious to me.

 

[finn]

Barn jacks, probably 100 years old show up at swap meets and CL quite frequently, as do railroad jacks.

Regular old high lift jacks work too.

You'll have to screw in temporary bracing while lifting the building. It'll take some creativity, as the building obviously isn't square or plumb now.

You don't need to jack from the bottom. Just screw some 2"x6" lumber to the studs above the rot and start lifting. The rot will likely stay on the ground as you lift the walls away.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I don't think you should be scared of bottle jacks. Lift up the building a little one side at a time like described above, set some cribbing, let it back down, move to the other side and repeat. You only have to lift an inch or so at a time. Even if somehow they all failed simultaneously, which isn't likely, it would just drop that inch.

 

[oldmxracer]

I'd go with cheap bottle jacks, and then simply use wood blocking to support the structure when you're not actually working on it. You can then take the jacks out altogether.

I agree !

Lowered My sons 1 1/2 story house back to it's new raised foundation when the jackass house mover bailed, using three 35 ton bottle jacks and cribbing !

This is just a shed !

 

[Platonic Solid]

OK, is this $20 Big Red 8-Ton Bottle Jack (linked) too cheap?

 

[Farmall450]

OK, is this $20 Big Red 8-Ton Bottle Jack (linked) too cheap?

No. Larin would suffice too.

 

[spudley]

I don't think you should be scared of bottle jacks. Lift up the building a little one side at a time like described above, set some cribbing, let it back down, move to the other side and repeat. You only have to lift an inch or so at a time. Even if somehow they all failed simultaneously, which isn't likely, it would just drop that inch.

Yep. Just moved a 14x24 using 2x6 lag bolted ribbons length wise with 4 sets of 14' 2x8's running widthwise under the ribbons. Using a Larin floor jack (with a piece of 4x4) we jacked the 2x8's 1-3" at a time and placed blocking under. After we raised it 9" we slid a trailer under, lowered it down (compressed the springs about 6") and drove it across the street.
Getting it up shouldn't be too bad but replacing the rot might be fun.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Yep. Just moved a 14x24 using 2x6 lag bolted ribbons length wise with 4 sets of 14' 2x8's running widthwise under the ribbons. Using a Larin floor jack (with a piece of 4x4) we jacked the 2x8's 1-3" at a time and placed blocking under. After we raised it 9" we slid a trailer under, lowered it down (compressed the springs about 6") and drove it across the street.

Cool! Any pictures?

Getting it up shouldn't be too bad but replacing the rot might be fun.

Yeah, now that I realize it has sill plates, I'll have to dig all that up. On the up side, barring the whole thing collapsing, any progress is an improvement.

 

[spudley]

Cool! Any pictures?

Yeah, now that I realize it has sill plates, I'll have to dig all that up. On the up side, barring the whole thing collapsing, any progress is an improvement.

Took a video but I'm not techie enough to know how to post. Anywho the garage is still sitting on the trailer (with a few stabilizers) waiting for me to pour a new slab. But I'm 200 miles away so I feel your long distance project pain...

 

[finn]

Yep. Just moved a 14x24 using 2x6 lag bolted ribbons length wise with 4 sets of 14' 2x8's running widthwise under the ribbons. Using a Larin floor jack (with a piece of 4x4) we jacked the 2x8's 1-3" at a time and placed blocking under. After we raised it 9" we slid a trailer under, lowered it down (compressed the springs about 6") and drove it across the street.
Getting it up shouldn't be too bad but replacing the rot might be fun.

I moved my 10'x20' woodshed across the yard like that, but on the back of my '79 F150 short bed plow truck.

Needed my wife to act as a spotter, as visibility wasn't too good with the walls extending past the hood.

I sort of wish the building move had failed, though, as I'm still using that 25 year old temporary building with no foundation.

Maybe a new shed will happen next year....

 

[My Old Tools]

Have you thought about tearing it down and rebuilding on a real foundation? It looks really small and low. Not sure it's worth the effort to save it.

 

[Schurkey]

For me it would be either tear out and renew

Have you thought about tearing it down and rebuilding on a real foundation? It looks really small and low. Not sure it's worth the effort to save it.

Winners.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Have you thought about tearing it down and rebuilding on a real foundation? It looks really small and low. Not sure it's worth the effort to save it.

Not willing to spend $5,000 to rebuild a storage shed located 20 minutes from my primary residence. I own this house and rent it out (shed not included). The shed is for my use for off site storage.

I would have to move it farther away from the septic tank if I made a real foundation. Septic tank clean out is 3 ft to the right of the shed. Then I'll have to go the whole permit route - increased property value - higher taxes ... My pending 2 story 6 car (3-up, 3-down) garage build on my primary residence is what I really care about.

I won't really know what direction I'm going until I get it all cleaned out and can see the true extent of decay. As for small, it's 12 x 24. And low, yep , it used to be at least 6 inches taller cause mother earth is slowly reclaiming it. The previously leaking roof was accelerating that process.

 

[Falcon67]

I would not sweat the lift.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41042

 

[Platonic Solid]

I would not sweat the lift.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41042

Great job saving your shed. You're right. I know it's going down all on its own if I do nothing, so I've got nothing to lose. It's more of a challenge.

This all started when I realized I need to do repairs to a storage room under a 4 season sun-porch at my house that isn't built properly (wood floor sitting 4 inches above dirt), but I can't get to that area without moving the disassembled paint booth I've been storing. So I figured I could move the paint booth to the shed ...

 

[TractorJeff]

12 by 24?
Screw some 2 by 10"s along the walls about 3 feet up for the length. Then go across the width with some 2 by 10's underneath them. These you jack on as you will be away from the walls. Put some "X" crosses in it in case it tries to get wobbly. I moved a 12 by 12 that was post construction a couple of years ago. It got wobbly after I got 3 feet of post out of the ground. No big deal to use a foot of pole for stability while I installed a couple of "X" frames. Jacked it up the rest of the way, backed the trailer under the framework I had built inside, then lowered it down! You need cribbing blocks and a couple of those Hilift jacks they sell at the Farm Stores!

 

[Platonic Solid]

... You need cribbing blocks and a couple of those Hilift jacks they sell at the Farm Stores!

Dang, yet another jack option:

(linked to Northern Tool)
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[Doug B]

Got it - set building down on cribbing while I fix the sill and posts. Thank you. 7 bottle jacks still sounds rather precarious to me.

A friend and I raised a 12'x24' frame building with 4 -20 ton jacks and lots of blocking just this way. The building had a 6' sidewall sitting on a slab-on-grade. We raised it 24", laid 3 courses of block under it, and set it down. As stated, jack a little and block it up so if there is a jack failure, it only goes down an inch or so.
Take lots of pictures!

 

[finn]

Dang, yet another jack option:

(linked to Northern Tool)
​

Get the original HiLift brand, not the knockoffs.

Bolt it to a large, solid base for more stability.

 

[spudley]

12 by 24?
Screw some 2 by 10"s along the walls about 3 feet up for the length. Then go across the width with some 2 by 10's underneath them. These you jack on as you will be away from the walls. Put some "X" crosses in it in case it tries to get wobbly. I moved a 12 by 12 that was post construction a couple of years ago. It got wobbly after I got 3 feet of post out of the ground. No big deal to use a foot of pole for stability while I installed a couple of "X" frames. Jacked it up the rest of the way, backed the trailer under the framework I had built inside, then lowered it down! You need cribbing blocks and a couple of those Hilift jacks they sell at the Farm Stores!

Should've had you help raise and move my garage (with a trailer that spent most of it's life in Elkhorn, Wi). I was surprised at how stable this beast felt when I finally got it out on the road. Had to go through trees on the end of the driveway 16'4" apart with a 16' (eaves) garage. I only moved it about 400' but I had thought of taking it to our deer camp about 50 miles north (at 3AM, on back roads, slowly with many guys with chainsaws just in case...).
I'd do it again as this building is well built and worth saving.

 

[TractorJeff]

Read Squashfest81 reply on post#9
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=367390
Right along the same line of discussion!

 

[Platonic Solid]

Finally got all the stuff out of the shed. Had to build a dolly to get the bay window out. I should probably toss the old paino frames. Always thought they'd make interesting shelves - not sure if it's worth the hassle.

(All images linked to large views)


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I really don't understand where all that dirt is coming from. It's higher in the shed than the exterior grade. Do raccoons play with dirt? There's raccoon turds everywhere. Not that I'm a **** turd expert - just guessing really.

​

The pile on the right side of this pic is actually 2 bags of sand that broke open.

​

 

[Platonic Solid]

Pics Continued:

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Next step is to remove the floating tongue and grove flooring. At least 50% of it is trash. Definitely some type of hardwood as even the small pieces have real weight to them.

 

[Stuart in MN]

You're nothing else if not industrious. That right there is a pile of work.

 

[Platonic Solid]

You're nothing else if not industrious. That right there is a pile of work.

Yeah, it's a pile of something alright. I keep telling myself I've got nothing to lose.

 

[Tennessee Cattleman]

You're nothing else if not industrious. That right there is a pile of work.

That's a heaping pile of work! If I was looking at that dirt and found ****, around here that would most likely be groundhogs digging burrows in the ground under the building. Don't know if you have those evil critters that live beneath the surface of the earth or not in your area.

 

[buildyourown]

I've done similar projects on several structures including the one I'm currently doing to my deck/garage. You dont need so many jacks. You can get a very long way with 4x4s and only 2 jacks. A cheap bottle jack is handy too. Of course you never crawl under the load but if you are just lifting something up and putting a post under you can really rig stuff up on the fly and still work safe.

I'm 2 yrs into my garage, and I should have torn it down. I didnt realize the rot was so bad when I started. Now Im so deep Im committed and married to a horrible roof design. 20/20 hindsight. Do a proper assessment and make sure it makes sense to save the structure. Personally, unless you cant get it permitted, I'd tear that one down.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Ground hogs! Yes, that makes sense. We have plenty of those.

With the exception of the roof, so far I haven’t done anything that I wouldn’t have to do anyway if I tore it down. Several trips to the dump to get rid of stuff that wasn’t worth saving when I put it in there. My gf said that someone could steal the stuff I put outside – I told her they’d be doing me a favor.

Lifting the building is one challenge. I haven’t quite wrapped my mind around how to move the bottom part of the walls in so they’re back to vertical while it’s lifted.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Lifting the building is one challenge. I haven’t quite wrapped my mind around how to move the bottom part of the walls in so they’re back to vertical while it’s lifted.

The bottom of the walls will probably be pretty floppy once the building is up in the air, they'll just be hanging. You should be able to push them in or out by hand without much trouble, although you'll need extra hands to hold them in place as the building is set back down on new sills.

 

[My Old Tools]

I bet those posts are in the ground a couple of feet. Can you actually see a sill beam?

 

[xtremek]

Count me in for the adventure. Seems like a fun project and should save you some time and money.

 

[TractorJeff]

In the one photo you show two angled beams holding a corner post up straight. This indicates to me that at one time there was a Sill Plate sitting on stones(?). It has all sunk into the ground over the years(?).
Tie the upright posts (6x6) to the ceiling beam with a 2x8 plate to stabilize the post to the beam. Then look at lifting from down low (my preferred way) or lifting the ceiling/roof beam which in this case may make more sense.
You'll need to lag bolt a 2x8 across from post to post to lift on. Then crib up to it to get the jack in there.
Or second option depending on soil/ground conditions would be to build a low base to set the jack with a 4x4 post going up to the cross beams.
Its a challenge but been done before!
BTW you'll need to guy wire the building to prevent it from shifting if you feel the need to lift the whole thing at one time!
It ***** when the post is canted a little and the building shifts direction!