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The Machine Work Thread

whateg01

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Got a link to the video?
I was thinking about a roll pin (some other lathes do that) but there wasn't enough meat on the stud head to drill a 1/8" hole. I even started cutting a keyway slot but then what I ended up doing was the quickest solution if perhaps not the most elegant one.


He ended up turning the end of the stud down that came with the tool post, but you could make one. (I get a hard time from a buddy of mine for it, but I often cut the head off of a bolt and thread the other end for stuff.) He ended up drilling and tapping the compound for a 1/2" thread (may have been 13tpi, but don't recall.)

It looks like they made the compound the way they did to get the most swing over the compound. A t-slot would have required another several mm of height and the pressed in stud doesn't need it. I'm sure cost was a factor, too.

Dave
 
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stioc

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^ thanks. If my solution doesn't hold long term making a new stud and tapping the compound is a good option.

I don't want to hijack this thread anymore so let's see some more fun projects! :)
 

kazlx

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Just machine a T slot in the compound :)

BTW, on further inspection, two things:

1. Way too much stickout on that bolt to use a push knurl (and probably impossible to do by hand, which is what it looks like?).

2. Scissor knurls work way better, not that you'd probably need one enough to justify getting it.

3. oh and if you need anything just bring it over and we can modify.
 
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stioc

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Just machine a T slot in the compound :)

I don't have a t-slot cutter...I always think I have a ton of tools in general but with stuff like this I realize how inadequate my tooling is lol

BTW, on further inspection, two things:

1. Way too much stickout on that bolt to use a push knurl (and probably impossible to do by hand, which is what it looks like?).


Yep, I thought about using the follow rest to give it some support from the other side but I was lazy :lol_hitti

2. Scissor knurls work way better, not that you'd probably need one enough to justify getting it.

Copy that! I hate this knurler but it came with the set and I haven't purchased the scissor kind yet, just didn't have the need but like 5000 other tools I'd like to have it's on the 'someday' list.

3. oh and if you need anything just bring it over and we can modify.
I appreciate it man! You're my "I'm really stuck, better call kazlx" option but since I get so little garage time I like to make a mess of things myself first before I ask for help :D
 

whateg01

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Got some work done for a customer tonight. Evenings have been short with kid stuff going on, but I'm making progress, and as a friend of mine says, progress is progress!

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Dave
 

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stioc

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^nice! shop time is fun regardless how little! So is that mild steel? done on a lathe? how big is the part, can't quite tell.
 
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stioc

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I finally got a chance to do some turning since fixing the tool post issue. Everything tightened down well I set it to 1000 RPM, chucked up a small piece of alum. I first took a .010" cut, then upped it to .020" then I went for it at .054" with the auto feed engaged at .004" feed rate. Wow, even with a well used insert it ate it up and the finish was pretty good too! Just using cheap TCMT inserts.

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F-117HWK

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Loving this thread. I picked up an old Bridgeport mill and a Harrison lathe a few months ago along with a ton of tooling. Following along trying to learn as much as I can before I get power hooked up.

Speaking of power, how are most of yall powering your machines? They came with a rudimentary home-grown rotary converter, but its loud as hell so I had been looking at VFDs or possibly a pre-made RC from somewhere like American Rotary. Any thoughts/advice?
 

whateg01

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Loving this thread. I picked up an old Bridgeport mill and a Harrison lathe a few months ago along with a ton of tooling. Following along trying to learn as much as I can before I get power hooked up.

Speaking of power, how are most of yall powering your machines? They came with a rudimentary home-grown rotary converter, but its loud as hell so I had been looking at VFDs or possibly a pre-made RC from somewhere like American Rotary. Any thoughts/advice?

My 10ee was a 3ph machine, but had a huge DC spindle motor. It wasn't running when I bought it, so I gutted it and put in a 3ph motor for the spindle and am using a Fuji Electric VFD. The Bridgeport clone I just bought has a 3ph 2sp motor on it, so I'll use a spare VFD I have for it, too.

Dave
 

whateg01

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^nice! shop time is fun regardless how little! So is that mild steel? done on a lathe? how big is the part, can't quite tell.

Yeah, lathe work. It's mild steel so I was a little surprised to get the finish I did. Not complaining, though. (I'm also not saying that it's a great finish. It's still mild steel, after all.) The OD is about 4.5" and it's finished thickness is a little over 1/4" with a small lip at the ID. If the customer is okay with it, I'll show pics when it's done.

Dave
 

kazlx

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Loving this thread. I picked up an old Bridgeport mill and a Harrison lathe a few months ago along with a ton of tooling. Following along trying to learn as much as I can before I get power hooked up.

Speaking of power, how are most of yall powering your machines? They came with a rudimentary home-grown rotary converter, but its loud as hell so I had been looking at VFDs or possibly a pre-made RC from somewhere like American Rotary. Any thoughts/advice?

If you have a smooth motor, the RPCs aren't bad. IMO, if you just have one or two machines with a single motor, VFDs are good. If they have multiple motors like power feeds or other things, RPC is the way to go. I use both, but my main power is a 15hp RPC panel fed from a 100A sub panel and I have 3ph plugs all over the garage I can get juice from. My Fadal is just hard wired to a J box.
 

kazlx

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Perfect garage machine:bounce:

Finished up this batch of 375 cubes last night. Next order will probably be around 925.
 

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F-117HWK

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If you have a smooth motor, the RPCs aren't bad. IMO, if you just have one or two machines with a single motor, VFDs are good. If they have multiple motors like power feeds or other things, RPC is the way to go. I use both, but my main power is a 15hp RPC panel fed from a 100A sub panel and I have 3ph plugs all over the garage I can get juice from. My Fadal is just hard wired to a J box.

That is a good piece of information that I hadn't really thought of. More machines are in the future as well, so rather than buy a VFD each and every time, it may be worthwhile to just get a better RPC from the start. Thanks.
 

kazlx

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That is a good piece of information that I hadn't really thought of. More machines are in the future as well, so rather than buy a VFD each and every time, it may be worthwhile to just get a better RPC from the start. Thanks.

Yup, if you plan on multiple machines, a RPC is a great way to go, as you can run anything. If you decide you want the benefits of a VFD, like speed control, braking, etc, you can easily just wire that in and and then run it off a 110/220 single phase plug.
 

larry_g

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Speaking of power, how are most of yall powering your machines? They came with a rudimentary home-grown rotary converter, but its loud as hell so I had been looking at VFDs or possibly a pre-made RC from somewhere like American Rotary. Any thoughts/advice?

This thread, https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=242465 has some good info in it and a link to the Hanrahan RPC. If you have any electrical experience you can follow the link and figure out how to balance the home made unit and the noise will go down. I also have the motor for the RPC in another room from the machines, mounted on a 2x12 that sits on a chunk of carpet pad. That cuts the noise way down. As Kaz did I put outlets around so that the 3 phase was distributed and available to many machines.

I have not joined the thinking of using a VFD to convert single to three phase. It works and has it's place but for me a RPC from scrounged parts powers 1/2 a dozen machines in my shop.

lg
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stioc

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I don't have any 3phase equipment but if/when I start down that road it'll be RPC. American Rotary is well known for a turn-key solution but there are other too like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/PL-20-Pro-...ter-Built-In-Starter-Made-In-USA/290855265458

You can put together your own with a static box/controller and a 3ph motor as others have done. Sounds like you already have one but might have a tired/old motor?
 

kazlx

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The motor makes a big difference in a RPC. Not power wise, but noise wise. I have friends that have semi clapped out motors. They run fine and provide power no problem but are noisy. My 15hp motor is super smooth and really quiet. Just a dull hum when it’s running and can’t even hear it when the Fadal is running.

At some point I’ll buy a Phase Perfect just for the room and simplicity. I think I still need to buck my voltage down a bit since I’m in the 240s range.
 
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whateg01

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Finished up these parts this week for jymmiejamz. Not the greatest of finishes. Fought the boring bar, and it's mild steel. Still dimensionally good, though.

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Dave
 

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stioc

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:thumbup::thumbup: Awesome you were able to help a fellow GJ member out. Did you print out the bolt pattern to drill the holes on the lathe? or marked them using a compass?

On the mill it would be pretty straight forward with a DRO or CNC.
 
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whateg01

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:thumbup::thumbup: Awesome you were able to help a fellow GJ member out. Did you print out the bolt pattern to drill the holes on the lathe? or marked them using a compass?

On the mill it would be pretty straight forward with a DRO or CNC.

Just used the XY coords. I was going to get the rotary table out, but that was too much effort for one small job.

Dave
 

F-117HWK

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Yup, if you plan on multiple machines, a RPC is a great way to go, as you can run anything. If you decide you want the benefits of a VFD, like speed control, braking, etc, you can easily just wire that in and and then run it off a 110/220 single phase plug.

Interesting, I had never really thought of that before either. The options a VFD opens up for speed control and such were pushing me heavily towards the VFD per machine route. If I used the RPC to power everything, would I still need to size the added VFD to the amp/hp requirements of each machines motor?

This thread, https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=242465 has some good info in it and a link to the Hanrahan RPC. If you have any electrical experience you can follow the link and figure out how to balance the home made unit and the noise will go down. I also have the motor for the RPC in another room from the machines, mounted on a 2x12 that sits on a chunk of carpet pad. That cuts the noise way down. As Kaz did I put outlets around so that the 3 phase was distributed and available to many machines.

I have not joined the thinking of using a VFD to convert single to three phase. It works and has it's place but for me a RPC from scrounged parts powers 1/2 a dozen machines in my shop.

lg
no neat sig line

Thanks for the link. The previous owner had the motor mounted and then had a "sound-proof" box that it slid into for reducing the noise. Even with that, I wouldn't want to turn it on for long periods without ear pro which was a deal breaker for me. I bought everything from a widower and her son, and the son didn't know much more than how to turn everything on, so I couldn't really get any history or additional info on the setup before we tore everything down for a 5hr drive back home at night due to some delays getting up to their house.

I don't have any 3phase equipment but if/when I start down that road it'll be RPC. American Rotary is well known for a turn-key solution but there are other too like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/PL-20-Pro-...ter-Built-In-Starter-Made-In-USA/290855265458

You can put together your own with a static box/controller and a 3ph motor as others have done. Sounds like you already have one but might have a tired/old motor?

American Rotary was one of the RPC places I have been researching and figured I would give them a call and see what they say. I have heard good things across the board about them. I am guessing the motor is old/tired, yes. Electricity and wiring is most certainly not my strong point, so I have been struggling to understand where to begin.

The motor makes a big difference in a RPC. Not power wise, but noise wise. I have friends that have semi clapped out motors. They run fine and provide power no problem but are noisy. My 15hp motor is super smooth and really quiet. Just a dull hum when it’s running and can’t even hear it when the Fadal is running.

At some point I’ll buy a Phase Perfect just for the room and simplicity. I think I still need to buck my voltage down a bit since I’m in the 240s range.

I think the cost of a Phase Perfect setup will keep me from buying one until my final shop is built where all the wood and metal working equipment will fall under the same roof. If I am understanding it correctly, it looks like Phase Perfect is a fully digital conversion from 1PH to 3PH with just a few fans to keep it cool and no actual motor running? Benefits look to include being able to run machines at 100% of stated HP and they are quiet and don't use much energy at idle.


All,
Thanks for the advice. I figure the more questions I ask, the better prepared I am. :beer:
 

kazlx

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Interesting, I had never really thought of that before either. The options a VFD opens up for speed control and such were pushing me heavily towards the VFD per machine route. If I used the RPC to power everything, would I still need to size the added VFD to the amp/hp requirements of each machines motor?

American Rotary was one of the RPC places I have been researching and figured I would give them a call and see what they say. I have heard good things across the board about them. I am guessing the motor is old/tired, yes. Electricity and wiring is most certainly not my strong point, so I have been struggling to understand where to begin.

I think the cost of a Phase Perfect setup will keep me from buying one until my final shop is built where all the wood and metal working equipment will fall under the same roof. If I am understanding it correctly, it looks like Phase Perfect is a fully digital conversion from 1PH to 3PH with just a few fans to keep it cool and no actual motor running? Benefits look to include being able to run machines at 100% of stated HP and they are quiet and don't use much energy at idle.


All,
Thanks for the advice. I figure the more questions I ask, the better prepared I am. :beer:

The only route that doesn't really provide full power is a static converter (which, honestly, at this point in time, I don't see a point in ever using). That's because it really just gets the motor started and then drops out a leg. So you're only getting two legs to your machine, therefore only 2/3 the power. About the sizing, yes, a VFD would still need to be sized to the motor. Technically, you could run a machine off of a RPC and use a 3ph/3ph VFD if you wanted those benefits. This is done all the time with industrial equipment like blowers, fans, stuff like that (not running on a RPC, but 3ph in and and 3ph out VFD). One benefit of the VFD is providing phase conversion, but majority of cases that's not why they are used.

There are some features that are handy with a VFD, but it's definitely not necessary. Almost any machine tool has some sort of way to control spindle speed. There are a few situations where a VFD does become handy. Say you have an old 1J Bridgeport with only the pulleys. So you have to move the belt to change the speed. A properly wired VFD would let you leave it somewhere on a middle speed setting and get to most speeds just by a potentiometer on the VFD. There are some spindle speed/torque curve drawbacks, but that's the idea. Same goes for like a drill press or a bandsaw. Makes it more possible to find like a nice wood bandsaw like a Rockwell and throw a VFD on it and now you can control the SFM of the blade (something like this may need to be re-pulleyed to get into a more suitable speed range for metal).

On the flip side, say you buy a pimped out 2J variable speed head Bridgeport, power feeds, auto drawbar, etc. IMO, there's literally no benefit to using a VFD. The machine functions perfectly normal on 3 phase power. You can still power tap, instant reverse with the switch via the 3 phase and you have infinite speed control via the head and low speed with back gears. Just provide it 3ph power from a RPC and you are good to go. Same goes with a lot of nice 3ph equipment. They already have the mechanisms in place that a VFD would provide. Some people nerd out and like to think you need infinitely variable speeds, but that's just not the case. I had a 1440 Cadillac lathe. Plenty of power. Just plugged into the RPC and ran like normal. Speeds all easily available via the gearbox. Power carriage feeds and all the normal stuff. Literally no benefit I could think of to run that machine off of a VFD. If you already had a RPC for powering equipment, you'd be leagues ahead buying a DRO and fitting it to the lathe rather than a VFD for giggles...

If you ever want to run anything CNC (a native 3ph CNC), you'd need a RPC, because you would need to provide 3ph to the cabinet and all the electrical distribution is in place in the machine already.

Again, all generalities and there are exceptions to everything obviously. A Phase Perfect is essentially the Ferrari of RPCs. It's just a digital converter. So, it's the same idea as an RPC, but you don't have an idler motor. The other benefit is capacity. Generally with an RPC you want to have your idler motor twice as big as the motor you want to run (but that would also be accounting for FLA). Not hard and fast rule, but generally.

The Phase Perfects are rated at stated HP, ie a 10hp PP will run a 10hp machine or combo of machine no issues. Good example is my Fadal is a 15hp machine and I run it on a 15hp RPC, but I'm not burying it all day every day either. I would technically have more head room with a 10hp Phase Perfect.
 
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stioc

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The only route that doesn't really provide full power is a static converter (which, honestly, at this point in time, I don't see a point in ever using). That's because it really just gets the motor started and then drops out a leg. So you're only getting two legs to your machine, therefore only 2/3 the power.

Just to clarify, I think what you're talking about is using the static converter to power a machine's 3-phase motor right? I was talking about using it to turn on the RPC idler motor. Once the idler motor is started (off of single phase power through the static box) the feed to the machine is going to be on all 3 legs, right?

Good discussion even if in the wrong thread but that's ok :)
 

kazlx

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Yes. I’m talking about powering the machine. You wouldn’t use one for turning on the idler motor. There’s better ways to do that. That is essentially what the boxes do that come with an RPC. It’s a bunch of capacitors with switch circuitry. When you start the converter the capacitors dump charge, along with the incoming native power to get the idler motor started. Then, once the idler is spinning, the box switches the capacitors out of the circuit and the idler runs on the incoming single phase as well as passing it through, putting out the 3rd phase for use.
 

stioc

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It would be cool to have live tooling on my lathe, and the ability to index the spindle. Hmmm... Maybe time for some new tools!

Dave

Such a thing exists? I suppose if your spindle has a brake that would work, you could then even put a pointer/scribe/mark and a scrap gear/spindex plate etc on the back side of the spindle to clock it.

I was thinking a crude way to do it on a lathe would be to scribe a circle (dykem+cutting tool) on the face of the part right at the center point of the holes. Then you use a divider/compass to scribe the cross at whatever distance the holes need to be from each other. See attached illustration.
 

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stioc

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Yes. I’m talking about powering the machine. You wouldn’t use one for turning on the idler motor. There’s better ways to do that. That is essentially what the boxes do that come with an RPC. It’s a bunch of capacitors with switch circuitry. When you start the converter the capacitors dump charge, along with the incoming native power to get the idler motor started. Then, once the idler is spinning, the box switches the capacitors out of the circuit and the idler runs on the incoming single phase as well as passing it through, putting out the 3rd phase for use.

Gotcha, thanks! Yeah that circuitry of capacitors and switches is what I was calling a static box but may be they're called something else.
I was thinking of a 100% home grown solution from ebay sourced parts and in mind it would just a 3 phase motor (big enough for your needs i.e. usually 1.5x to 2x) and the staring/switching box.
 

KBigg

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Nothing new here, just more forklift parts. Thats a 13/16” drill for reference.
 

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whateg01

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Such a thing exists? I suppose if your spindle has a brake that would work, you could then even put a pointer/scribe/mark and a scrap gear/spindex plate etc on the back side of the spindle to clock it.

I was thinking a crude way to do it on a lathe would be to scribe a circle (dykem+cutting tool) on the face of the part right at the center point of the holes. Then you use a divider/compass to scribe the cross at whatever distance the holes need to be from each other. See attached illustration.

My lathe does have a spindle lock that has several notches. Not what I would rely on though, as it has some slop. I don't know if there are commercially available accessories to do this or not. A friend with a similar machine to mine machined an index plate like you would find on a dividing head and then attached a pin to the headstock so it can be indexed that way. Works pretty slick and has very little play.

Dave
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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My 1.5hp Bridgeport mill came with a static phase converter. The guy that owned it before me had no issues with the drop in power as he was doing gunsmith work. I opted for a VFD, but a static phase converter may be suitable for some. I'd sell mine if someone is in need.
 

kazlx

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60 more of these brackets. 1st op done. Need to face the back side, then radius the tab and drill and tap 1/4-20.
 

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stioc

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60 more of these brackets. 1st op done. Need to face the back side, then radius the tab and drill and tap 1/4-20.

Nice! I forget are you using a tapping head, thread milling or hand tapping?
 

bullnerd

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My 1.5hp Bridgeport mill came with a static phase converter. The guy that owned it before me had no issues with the drop in power as he was doing gunsmith work. I opted for a VFD, but a static phase converter may be suitable for some. I'd sell mine if someone is in need.

I used the static that came with my Prototrak for years and never had a problem. I did some pretty decent hogging on steel with it too.

Phase-o-matic FTW! :lol_hitti
 
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