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Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT The Texas Barn in PA

Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
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madison069

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While I mull it over, I decided to test the reaction to the joint sealer with the 4500 and 8510. If I have to tape the sealer to protect it, then so be it. But I’m just curious if there would be any ill effect from just spraying the sealant with the densifier and sealer.
IMG_9224.jpeg

Luckily I had some good sample test pieces to do this test on.

We will see what it looks like tomorrow
 
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madison069

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How many tubes of the sika flex did you use for your garage? I am going to order some for my project, but dont want to buy too much, that stuff is kina pricey
I ended up using 8.5 tubes of the sealer for 93ft of 1/8” wide by 1/2” deep expansion joints. Your mileage will vary due to the bubble on top. But I am glad to have that extra material on top cause I saw several depress area where it seems like air might of escaped and more material dropped down.
 

fouckhest

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I ended up using 8.5 tubes of the sealer for 93ft of 1/8” wide by 1/2” deep expansion joints. Your mileage will vary due to the bubble on top. But I am glad to have that extra material on top cause I saw several depress area where it seems like air might of escaped and more material dropped down.

Appreciate the feedback, that is good to know, guess I need to go measure and see what I may need to get on order.
 

OutlawDrifter

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I know one thing. If I do the 4500, I’m still going to apply two coats of wet on wet of 8510 sealer because this will be the only time I can do this and not have to grind the surface down to redo the floor.

I had to go back and read my thread to see, but I did 2 coats of the Ghostshield back to back on top of the TL37 densifier I used, wet on wet.
 

cccoltsicehockey

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That’s what they said in the email to me too. Some other people’s bad results makes me think they didn’t get enough of the 8510 down and so it was a waste of their time. This is based on my experience so far with the test.
I was using a sprayer to put it down really yet and heavy. I would do about 8x13.5ft at a time. Basically cutting the garage into 6th but leaving myself the ability with the 10ft extendable roller pole to roll out any wet spots after I completed each section. Basically ran out right at the end with the amount they said I should have used.

So definitely agree that people must be putting to down too light.
 
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madison069

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While I mull it over, I decided to test the reaction to the joint sealer with the 4500 and 8510. If I have to tape the sealer to protect it, then so be it. But I’m just curious if there would be any ill effect from just spraying the sealant with the densifier and sealer.
IMG_9224.jpeg

Luckily I had some good sample test pieces to do this test on.

We will see what it looks like tomorrow
So looking at these sample this morning, they were dry and not sticky. I wonder if the folks who had problems were using the sikaflex that you get at the store? I almost used it myself but @SilverJimmy pointed me toward the 1C-SL which is actually resistant to jet fuel, diesel, gasoline and so on while the other wasn’t resistant to solvent as per the tech data sheet. Either way, it makes me feel better about just spraying the whole floor and not worry about taping off the joint now.
 
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madison069

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Appreciate you keeping this updated, I just ordered the same 12pk from the same jungle store vendor!

Looking forward to getting started on this project, still looking forward to following along and seeing your progress.
If nothing changes, I think I will be spraying the floor with 4500 tomorrow after work. The sika 1c-SL should be fulling cures as cure time is 3-5 days. Tomorrow will be 4 days. I will have to give the floor a good sweep and pick up anything off the floor before I spray. I got two of the Home Depot 2 gallon sprayer for bleach and deck stain waiting for me to pick up from the store. If I get the floor sprayed tomorrow, then I can do the 8510 next Wednesday. Then I will be able to bring drywall material into the barn next weekend. If it works out I will have the drywall crew out in 2 to 3 weeks from now to do the drywall.

Oh, I need to install an ice maker valve in the wall. I plan to put a refrigerator in the garage and an ice maker would be nice!
 

SilverJimmy

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I am going with the big tubes of Sika. Bought the big gun at HomeDespot for the glue when I was installing the pressure treated 2x4 for the plywood walls in the shop. For my shop the coverage on the tubes @ 3/8” depth comes out to 20 of the big tubes so I’ll order two 12 pack cases from Amazon. The extra tubes I’m sure will come in handy somewhere!
 
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madison069

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I am going with the big tubes of Sika. Bought the big gun at HomeDespot for the glue when I was installing the pressure treated 2x4 for the plywood walls in the shop. For my shop the coverage on the tubes @ 3/8” depth comes out to 20 of the big tubes so I’ll order two 12 pack cases from Amazon. The extra tubes I’m sure will come in handy somewhere!
I’m sure the bigger tubes would have let me complete one whole joint cut across the garage!

I agree, it’s nice to have a little extra during the job so you don’t have to run back to the store. I figured the extra tubes I had was going to be used in the attached garage. I remember it had some nice wide cracks in there.
 

cccoltsicehockey

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I am going with the big tubes of Sika. Bought the big gun at HomeDespot for the glue when I was installing the pressure treated 2x4 for the plywood walls in the shop. For my shop the coverage on the tubes @ 3/8” depth comes out to 20 of the big tubes so I’ll order two 12 pack cases from Amazon. The extra tubes I’m sure will come in handy somewhere!
I used the larger tubes in my garage. Only need 1 & 2/3 tubes to finish each bay.
 
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madison069

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Well, today was the day.

First order of business was to install the ice maker valve.
I even pressure tested it and there was no leak.
IMG_9250.jpeg

Then I started sweeping and blowing the floor clean. After several passes it was as clean as it was going to be short of busting out a mop and bucket.

So I mixed the 4500 and distill water at a 1:1 ratio as per instructions and I got ready to go.

It took me 3 gallons to cover the floor properly, so I ended up using a half of the second gallon I had of 4500 to finish the job.
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The concrete sucked that stuff up so fast, it was basically dried in 30 mins.
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All I could think of was, did I apply enough? Why did it absorb the water and solution so fast yet when doing the water test the water just sat there and took forever to disappear. Temperature was 74F while I was spraying and it was comfortable in there, not really hot at all.

I now need to clean my car out and organize the tools that I had in the car. Seems it does a good job of just hauling the gears from one place to the other.
 
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madison069

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With the crew coming to grade the front of the garage, I figured I’d better get the water line installed. So I rented the 18” trencher from Home Depot to make the job a little easier.
IMG_9295.jpeg

Since I had the trencher I figured I’d better run the gas line to the house too. They won’t be connected right away, but at least the lines are ran.

So here’s the trenches dug up.
IMG_9297.jpeg
I got the water line and the conduit that the water line runs through installed and to the house now. Tunneling under that concrete sidewalk was no piece of cake. I did a combination of pressure washer, digging, and just brute force with a sledge hammer. But I got it punched through.
IMG_9299.jpeg

I was so muddy and so on that I didn’t take pictures during this time. But here it is covered up between the garage and the side walk.
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I need to bring a rake and also tamp the dirt down some more. But my father in law and wife came over to help do some digging and covering the trench.
Unfortunately, I didn’t know that the downspouts ran along this sidewalk. I could have swore the old terra cotta pipe I re-routed around the egress window was the downspouts. Looking back I never did verify, just figured they had to fix the pipe above ground and and just put the pvc to the terra cotta. 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️

Oh well that was a waste of time in the past.

Either way, I found the down spout with the trencher. So we had to dig it up to get it replaced.

IMG_9301.jpeg

Here is the current dug up area between the sidewalk and the house.
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Along with the trench toward the garage.
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I still need to send a pipe under the sidewalk for the gas line. But I put it off til tomorrow so I could get some chores done around the house.

If Everything thing goes well, I’ll get the gas line in the ground and the downspout repaired tomorrow. Along with get the trench covered back up before the storm that’s coming in Tuesday.
 
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madison069

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Today I got the gas line installed and got it pressured tested. Getting the pcv under the sidewalk for the gas line to pass though was easier this time. No pics, but using the pressure washer to bore a hole under the sidewalk and then put the pipe in the hole before hammering it through proved to be the ticket to make it an easy job.

Here’s the repaired storm pipe and gas line in the trench before covering it up. A trace wire and the plastic tape to warn of a gas line in in their places.
IMG_9309.jpeg

Pressure tested the lines at 32-33psi.
IMG_9310.jpeg

I also filled in the hole with some foam where the water line passed through. I will trim it back and put hydraulic cement over it.
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5 hours later the line still held at 32-33psi.
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The pressure gauge. You can see the trace wire.

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All filled in.
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Except for this area. I am going to put a water valve box for the water line connection here. You can see the old cement patch where the old ac refrigeration lines passed through the bricks. I’m going to put the gas line through that hole instead of drilling new holes.
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All back filled,
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Once I get the water line at the garage opening patched with hydraulic cement, I will cost that area with some roof tar or something similar for the waterproofing aspect.

Drywall supply is to arrive at the garage this coming Monday. Wednesday I will spray the garage floor with the 8510.

Still lots of stuff to do.
 
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madison069

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Wife made the comment “Poor Boots.” When she saw my boots this morning. She’s not wrong, the bottom threads are gone on these pairs. Hopefully they still make the red wings Pecos 4441 boots in my size. I’ll be going to a nearby town to visit the red wings woot shop to see if they can get my size.
IMG_9308.jpeg

But they have served me well during this build. Along with other projects in the past several years.
 
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SilverJimmy

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I don’t know if you are aware of this. Red Wing Boots has a great rebuild service. You can send in your boots that still have life left in the uppers and get them factory resoled, they’ll even fix the toes if you wore holes thru the tips! I’ve sent in boots for years, always happy to get my friends back for more fun!
 

gearhead1960

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I don’t know if you are aware of this. Red Wing Boots has a great rebuild service. You can send in your boots that still have life left in the uppers and get them factory resoled, they’ll even fix the toes if you wore holes thru the tips! I’ve sent in boots for years, always happy to get my friends back for more fun!
Allen Edmonds does the same thing. I've been wearing a pair of my Dad's dress shoes that are going on over 50 years old. I've had them, what they call "recrafted" several times.
 
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madison069

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I don’t know if you are aware of this. Red Wing Boots has a great rebuild service. You can send in your boots that still have life left in the uppers and get them factory resoled, they’ll even fix the toes if you wore holes thru the tips! I’ve sent in boots for years, always happy to get my friends back for more fun!

I was not aware of that! I will be sure to take these pairs with me to the boot shop and see what they can do for me with getting these refurbished.
 
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madison069

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Allen Edmonds does the same thing. I've been wearing a pair of my Dad's dress shoes that are going on over 50 years old. I've had them, what they call "recrafted" several times.
I guess it's not uncommon for certain brands to do that kind of service!
I will say this as a side note; I recently had a Henry Arms Big Boy develop a defect that was pretty serious. I reached out to them about it, and they promptly sent me a return shipping label for free shipping to send the gun back to them. With in 2 weeks, they return my rifle with a new barrel on it, but I was able to keep the rest of the original gun since it was a first edition of this particular model. It didn't cost me anything but the actual shipping material which I had in the garage. I thought that was pretty cool of them. They said if it wasn't repairable, they would send me a whole new gun of the same model. That's standing behind their product!
 

zmotorsports

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I don’t know if you are aware of this. Red Wing Boots has a great rebuild service. You can send in your boots that still have life left in the uppers and get them factory resoled, they’ll even fix the toes if you wore holes thru the tips! I’ve sent in boots for years, always happy to get my friends back for more fun!

We have a Red Wing store near where I work. These have been my go-to boots most of my career and I think in the 35+ years I am only on my 4th pair, 5th maybe at the most. I would get them resoled about every 16-18 months like clockwork until they couldn't resole them any longer, then have to buy a new pair. One pair would usually last me about 6-7 years having 3-4 resoles each. The only thing I hated about the new ones is the first month or two getting them worn in. After that they felt like slippers.
 
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madison069

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Today I sprayed the floor with the 8510 sealer. Using a Home Depot bleach and deck stain sprayer with the red tip was a good choice.

I also wore spiked shoes, was interesting but I didn’t fall!
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After 4.5 gallons I got two complete coverage.
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Then I started on the water line point. I first cut the insulation back.
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Using a drill with a wire brush cup I cut the insulation back a little more to get a depressed cavity for the hydraulic cement.
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Here’s the cement
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After mixing it I started spreading the cement in the cavity and smoothed it out.
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I’ll come back and cost it with a waterproof coating that came in the mail today.


Then I connected the gas line from the garage to the underground line.

Yes it’s angled a bit, with my plans for this area, it will be hidden in the future so it will be fine.
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I also primed it before I called it a night. I used acetone to clean the pipe and then with a cardboard I protected the garage from the overspray.
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I’ll paint it with a gray paint on another day.

When the floor sealer cures, I’ll also pressure test the gas line again just to be sure it still holds pressure.

Now to wait for the sealer to cure.
 
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madison069

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Good work:beer: The only thing I would have done differently with the gas is put a shutoff valve on the outside below the union and a pvc sleeve thru the wall.Both required by code in my neck of the woods.
I'll double check the code; I knew a sleeve was needed for concrete pass through but wasn't aware it was needed for wood. I will be installing a shut off valve in the house, but I can install one on the outside of the building if needed. Heck, I might just put one on just for added precaution.

I don't plan to hook the gas to the house until I move back so I got time to correct it. I was going to put two support mounts on the gas line, so I can remove it and drill the holes as needed with the gas line removed and install the shut off valve and the sleeve at the same time.
 
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madison069

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Looking good! Can you tell me more about the 8510?
The product I'm using is a sealer called Ghost Sheild 8510. It's supposed to repel water, salt, and oil. I did some testing a few posts back, and based on it, it seems the 2 coats of 8510 wet on wet coats was the best option for my floor.

Here's the link to the product website,
 
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madison069

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Good work:beer: The only thing I would have done differently with the gas is put a shutoff valve on the outside below the union and a pvc sleeve thru the wall.Both required by code in my neck of the woods.

So checked the code book and it says I need a shut off on all individual buildings installed outdoor.

IMG_9364.jpeg

Now to get a shut off valve.

Good thing I got a 3/4” thread cutter for black pipe!
 

bdbecker

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I've been making my way through this thread over the last few weeks... fantastic work!

Regarding the paint color, I would advise against the gray/red stripe/light gray combo. You have spent far to much time, money, and energy on this project to just have it end up looking like every other garage/shop. If you want to do the blue but are worried about being too dark, you could do a blue accent wall and paint the rest of the area an off-white complimentary color.

A random thought as well... if you really wanted to make a statement, paint the entire garage a light/off-white color, and then do a large outline of the state of Texas on one wall. It could be a vinyl decal, wall paint, or even a plywood cut-out. Something like this, but bigger...

 
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madison069

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I've been making my way through this thread over the last few weeks... fantastic work!

Regarding the paint color, I would advise against the gray/red stripe/light gray combo. You have spent far to much time, money, and energy on this project to just have it end up looking like every other garage/shop. If you want to do the blue but are worried about being too dark, you could do a blue accent wall and paint the rest of the area an off-white complimentary color.

A random thought as well... if you really wanted to make a statement, paint the entire garage a light/off-white color, and then do a large outline of the state of Texas on one wall. It could be a vinyl decal, wall paint, or even a plywood cut-out. Something like this, but bigger...

Thanks! I agree, I started thinking the initial color combo was too common. I'm still undecided on the actual color but I've thought about making the far-left rear corner like an accent corner wall theme where I can sit at a counter and it kind of turns into a separate room so to speak.

I also haven't given up the idea of painting the Texas state on the wall. I have a projector that I can use to trace the state on the wall.

But I am thinking of doing a light tan wall and the ceiling to be white. For me it would be kind of like the desert of West Texas.
 
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madison069

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Well it wasn’t ideal since the floor was still a little wet in some spots. The weather has been very cool. I opened the windows to let some air circulate in there.
IMG_9382.jpeg

But seems the drywall delivery got pushed up and so they came today and put the drywall sheets in the garage.
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Wished it could have waited til Monday but I’ll take it when I can. The drywall crew will be here Monday morning to start.

I got a few things to do this weekend but overall it’s ready for drywall.
 

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madison069

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I’ve read this paragraph in the gas line code book several times.
IMG_9388.jpeg
I’ve searched the book for the answer on what’s the annular spacing that is needed to be acceptable. It’s not mentioned in the books unless I’m missing it. I talked to a plumbing buddy of mine and he said inspectors are all over the page on what they accept as proper annular spacing, but he never has an issue with just wrapping it with a PVC tape and sending it through the wall. Long as it’s UPC stamped, the tape will pass. I talked to the building inspector and he said, painting the pipe as per the code is acceptable. But he also accept the proper tape too.

I’m just going to wrap it and paint it, but leave an unpainted area of the wrap to show the UPC stamp.
I did find that in New Jersey they require 1/2” of annular spacing for their conduits, but nothing here has been an hard answer regarding annular spacing.
 

Mr onetwo

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So checked the code book and it says I need a shut off on all individual buildings installed outdoor.

IMG_9364.jpeg

Now to get a shut off valve.

Good thing I got a 3/4” thread cutter for black pipe!
make sure the valve has an "AGA" stamp for gas service. These Watts ones work great and are cheap. The tape will be fine for penetrating the wall as long as the inspector approves.Sorry to muddy the waters with the sleeve comment...just how it's done up here.
34bv.JPGCapture.JPG
 

larry4406

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I recall our plumbers using PVC one nominal pipe size larger than the gas pipe as the sleeve thru masonry/concrete. So, a 1" gas line would use a 2" PVC sleeve. The annular gap is sealed with electrician's duct seal. A 3/4" gas line would use a 1.5" PVC sleeve

We don't sleeve thru wood framing.

I have only seen PVC sleeving in my construction career here in VA and adjacent MD counties.

I had one plumber forget to sleeve a gas line and it was caught by the inspector. The plumber took a used tube of caulk, cut it to a length of 8" to make an open tube, and slit it along its side. He then pried it open and placed it around the gas pipe with the ends overlapping itself and slid it into the hole in the 8" concrete wall to become the sleeve. Inspector passed it.
 
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madison069

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make sure the valve has an "AGA" stamp for gas service. These Watts ones work great and are cheap. The tape will be fine for penetrating the wall as long as the inspector approves.Sorry to muddy the waters with the sleeve comment...just how it's done up here.
34bv.JPGCapture.JPG
No worries, better to point it out to prevent headaches down the road.

I took the opportunity to talk to the local fire house chief and I asked what valve they preferred to see. He said the style with the lockout option, so I went with this one.
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One good thing is I’m getting more and more familiar with the code books and finding out that it can contradict its self, so be sure to ask the inspector what’s allowed per his standard!
 
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