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Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

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jimreed2160

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Stanley 1870 Miller Plow Plane

This kit has been sitting on my shelf for a few decades and it finally came up on the TODO list. It is a bronze replica plane kit from Paul Hamler. During the past month I have been filing down the sprue marks and polishing the metal with deburring pads and wheels. Today's task was to attach the blade holder and cam. They are held in place by brass pins which need to be cut to size and peened.

The true test is whether or not I can remember how I did it the first time. I wrote up a nice tutorial that got lost in the ether. But everything went well and that beauty is gleaming like a big gold tooth.

I put the pins in a vise and carefully peened one end by tapping with a ball peen hammer (of course). A thousand taps and it was done. Then I filed down a few light jaw marks and installed the pins. One thing I did have from the past was the 1/16" metal plate with a hole drilled for the pin. Paul recommended this and it worked great the first time. Cut along the face of the steel and you leave just enough brass to peen into a nice joint. I used my coping saw. Another advantage of the steel plate is that it protects the plane from stray saw marks.

With the pins cut, I worked on the corner of the anvil and pounded out another thousand hammer blows to achieve peening success.
 

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jimreed2160

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Continued

Having paperclip issues with pictures today. Here are some more progress shots and a picture of the finished plane.
 

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CRSINMICH

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SPOFFORD BRACE​
All this talk about auger bits must have created some good ju-ju. I have been on the lookout for one of these for a few years. Where did I find it? I went for a haircut and the shop was decorated on every square inch of the walls with antique tools. The barber is retiring and selling all of it. I got the brace and these two spokeshaves. A bronze coach makers' and a wooden one with Celebrated Joiners' Tools on the blade.
 

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Youngguns

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How do you guys store your swords (i.e., big *** files)? I'm looking for some creative ideas to keep them out of the way, and prevent them from banging into each other.
 

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Allpurpose

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Thanks to people such as guys like Paul Sellers and others like him there's been quite a resurgence in people learning the skills of making things with little more than simple hand tools..
You have a great looking bench there, but there seems to be a lot of people who either purchase an expensive bench or even build one only to little more than polish the bench for fear of maring the surface.
I built my bench with inexpensive construction grade 2x4s and it's still just as sturdy as the day I finished building it, but over time it's seen it's share of sharp objects dropped on it and pounded into the top inadvertently..The weather and other factors have done their share of damage to it so sometime in the next year or so I'll probably rebuild the top with something more substantial than cheap white pine and this time I'll probably even bother to square up the edges and maybe even run the top through the planer instead of eyeballing with my #4 it like the last time..
What I really need is a maid to walk around behind me to put things away when I'm done working with them so my bench doesn't end up looking like a tornado dumped all my tools on top of the bench every 2 days..
 

EOC_Jason

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How do you guys store your swords (i.e., big *** files)? I'm looking for some creative ideas to keep them out of the way, and prevent them from banging into each other.

I was going to use some silverware trays but those were too short, even looking at individual type trays everything seemed a best still an inch short for my long files...

I found some of that wire shelving at Habitat ReStore the other week for $2, I was going to bend it similar to those wire pliers organizers to hold my files. I'll let you know how that goes but that's about the only thing I could think of. I didn't want to stick them on a magnetic bar because I use them for both metal & wood...
 

niget2002

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How do you guys store your swords (i.e., big *** files)? I'm looking for some creative ideas to keep them out of the way, and prevent them from banging into each other.

Buy a cheap wooden cutting board and run it through the table saw to cut grooves the width of the files so that they slide into it like a knife holder.
 
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jimreed2160

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How do you guys store your swords (i.e., big *** files)? I'm looking for some creative ideas to keep them out of the way, and prevent them from banging into each other.

Here is what I do. The files are in my grinding room because that is where I do most of the metal work. The large files are up top and ready for action. The rat tail, triangular, square, and reamer are down below. It was the quickest and easiest storage I could come up with at the time.
 

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jimreed2160

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All--Sounds like a bench project is in your future. I really enjoy my bench and use the top for a reference surface when building furniture because it is dead flat. But that is what to expect from a high end European bench. To me, dings are not as bad as warps.

There is a wealth of info on benches and tops on the web. I think making a good decision really depends on how you will use it. I have a dozen benches in my shop with different tops and they all serve a variety of needs. My backup cabinetmakers bench top is clad in veneer flooring but it works well.

So good luck on your project and keep us posted on your progress.
 

Autonomous

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Allpurpose: If it is still sturdy and suits your needs you could always throw a nice piece of plywood on top with screws in it and when that gets too dinged up flip it over for a renewed surface.

I've heard of folks using a white melamine coated MDF for their tops where they do a lot of glue-ups because you can pop off wood glue with a chisel very easily and the surface is very flat.

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jimreed2160

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Allpurpose: If it is still sturdy and suits your needs you could always throw a nice piece of plywood on top with screws in it and when that gets too dinged up flip it over for a renewed surface.

I've heard of folks using a white melamine coated MDF for their tops where they do a lot of glue-ups because you can pop off wood glue with a chisel very easily and the surface is very flat.

True. The original maker of my spare woodworking bench clad the top in sacrificial hardboard that I recently replaced with hickory laminate flooring. Cost was only $19. It looks really nice and is holding up well. So not every surface has to be exotic hardwood to be useful.
 

PFSard

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How do you guys store your swords (i.e., big *** files)? I'm looking for some creative ideas to keep them out of the way, and prevent them from banging into each other.

Frequently used ones, hanging by wood handles from peg hooks. Ones that I don't use frequently in bicycle inner tubes in a drawer.
 

drivesitfar

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ALL: anybody ever made something out of old WWII ship hatches? i've got one as a workbench that i'm still working on how to set it up and i've got a couple more for maybe another workbench or a table or ??

with the metal straps and hand or tool holders anybody have an idea how to spiff it up? also if there is rot in some of the wood is there an epoxy to use as filler to stop the rot or what is the best fix?

thanks guys
 

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rlitman

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I have a coffee table made from a Liberty Ship hatch cover that looks a lot like that (same handles and end straps, but slightly different proportions).

I've used a thinner than water epoxy called CPES for rotting wood window mullions with great success. It's pricey, but will soak down past any rot further than any other product I know. There are other treatments for rot, but most are incompatible with top finishes.
 

drivesitfar

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RL: any pictures of the table to post would be great. thanks for the epoxy tip and I just googled and found this article that i think says some good things for those of us trying to restore something that isn't in great shape.

https://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html

ALL: any thoughts on how to clean up the wood surface of these WWII hatches? removing paint and rough spots with a power tool or by hand and with what?
 
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rlitman

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Unfortunately, it is kind of buried at the moment. Mine was refinished with spar varnish at least 40 years ago, and looks about the same as I remember from back in the day. I want to say it was cleaned up with a belt sander and then stained. The wood looks kinda rough under the finish, but not as rough as reclaimed skip-planed barn wood, if that makes sense.

I'd start with a cabinet scraper, and see how it looks before going to power tools.
 
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jimreed2160

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Drives--Those hatch covers are a little piece of history. I'll bet they are getting hard to find. As for cleaning it, I would probably start with a belt sander. If there is paint, it probably has lead in it so be careful.
 

rlitman

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Drives--Those hatch covers are a little piece of history. I'll bet they are getting hard to find. As for cleaning it, I would probably start with a belt sander. If there is paint, it probably has lead in it so be careful.

Yeah, they are. I've never seen one painted though. That looks to me like the original varnish that has blackened with exposure.
 

ez-duzit

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Y--my files are stored in a heavy duty vinyl tool roll that came with a set of files I bought decades ago. It has full length clear vinyl on one side, forming the pouches, so you can see each file. Prevents the files from ever touching each other. And it makes them easy to transport.
 

EOC_Jason

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Maybe try CitriStrip first? You can get it at Lowes, HD, Walmart, etc... See if that lifts the paint off, then you can decide how much you want to sand the wood.

ALL: any thoughts on how to clean up the wood surface of these WWII hatches? removing paint and rough spots with a power tool or by hand and with what?
 
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jimreed2160

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Furniture doctor time

Over fifty years ago my parents gave me a pair of Shaker table kits for Christmas. I was really into antique furniture and loved these things. They received my "special" linseed oil finish over a period of six months. The raw linseed oil took me down because it took for ever to dry and never took on a luster. So I ended up coating them in poly and have used them beside my bed ever since. They are some of the few things that survived "the settlement". But the one beside the Queen looked a little out of sorts so I took it into the shop. I think she fell into it when she took a tumble.

Once I got it up on the bench, I could see the damage. Not too bad and should be easy to repair. The top was attached with pocket screws and the stress caused a split at the skirt. Then I can reglue the front drawer tenons. It will not be a difficult repair but will be complicated by not being able to take it apart.

While taking it apart I noticed a midnight repair on one of the drawers. Seems I did a midnight repair on a stuck drawer and hacked at the dovetail with a chisel. Hmmm... I think that can be cleaned up a bit with a handplane and some stain. Maybe if I do this repair right, these tables can last another 50 years.
 

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jimreed2160

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More pictures

Paperclip issues. Here are more pictures of the table. Our temps are diving tonight so I have delayed the glue up.
 

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CRSINMICH

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jim: If there is anything good about a break like that table's it's that during the repair you can do a forensic analysis on the joinery - what held, what didn't, and so on. File it away for you next build.

ALL: A few months ago I painted a sheet of 1/2" plywood blinding white and mounted it to the wall behind my bench. Since then I've been taking note of the tools that I use the most and finding a convenient place to hang them on the plywood. Here is what I find the most handy for the things I use the most during ANY project. First is my homemade magnifying glasses holster. It's a modified pocket glasses case. The clip that is supposed to hold it to your shirt pocket is in the back. I leave that temple piece hanging out for easy access. The second most handy thing is the pencil box I made to fit in the small tool well in the rear. The interior bottom is a piece of foam so the leads won't break when the pencil is dropped in. Notice that there are popsicle sticks in there too. They're surprisingly handy for anything from glue spreading to shims.

Of course, there are many other things hanging on the wall now but day-to-day for the sheer number of times I reach for glasses or pencils these two are used the most. I still have to remember to put things back though.

Sometimes the little things make the big things go easier.
 

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jimreed2160

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CRS--Good job on your backboard. I am glad to see that I am not the only one who changes things constantly. I like to use the retail store approach like you and replace the little used slugs with the popular things. Sometimes I redo an entire workbench and repurpose it.
 
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jimreed2160

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Table project

I worked on the little table today and glued the skirt splinter back into place. Once this dries, I will reglue the front drawer tenons. I also worked on the drawer side and fixed the chewed up look. All it took was a little plane work and some stain.

Then I brought it inside because the garage is getting cold this evening.
 

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jimreed2160

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Table repair continued

The skirt fix went well and I moved on to the drawer side tenons today. It was pretty uneventful. I guess the top can go back on tomorrow.
 

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jimreed2160

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Cable control project

I installed a new kitchen "island" last year and put the surround sound box on top of it. That got it off the floor but the dang wires really cramped my style. I moved that project to the top of the list and got out my Kreg jig.

All I really needed was a box. It was a simple project with a few complications. First, there was no easy way to use the Kreg and hide the holes. That was an easy fix since I could attach the top from the outside.

Second issue came during assembly. I sometimes use my ww bench for carpentry projects. It works well but I have to be careful about damage. Bonehead things like drilling holes through and such. So I put the top piece of plywood under the box while I was attaching the bottom. Good thing because the screws protruded about 1/8". Whew!

I needed the 1" screws instead of the 1 1/4". It was a simple change. I finished up and attached the top with screws from the outside. No prob because the box will go on top of it and cover them up.
 

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jimreed2160

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Cable control

Installation took about ten minutes. Lucky for me that I had a helper. Now all of those dang wires are under control and out of my way.

OK. It is not a piece of Chippendale style furniture and it is not made from exotic wood. But it is a project from the woodshop. And it is a project that will solve a problem and make life easier. It is another good reason to have a woodshop.
 

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Craptain

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For an old traditionalist Jim, you certainly get your money's worth from the kreg jig.

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jimreed2160

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For an old traditionalist Jim, you certainly get your money's worth from the kreg jig.

That Kreg is a nice little tool. It is quick and easy to use. And it is very forgiving--I especially like that part. All of the projects so far have been quick n dirty. I have yet to glue one up. The screws hold the joints tightly. Just call me a believer.
 

CRSINMICH

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BMR: Your 711/2 is a Type 1 (1896-1901). It never had a depth adjustment mechanism. It could be altered to add one but DON'T! It's only original once. Very nice find!
 
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Bob Heine

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Jim, I see we have something else in common -- workbenches in the kitchen. The Duchess requested that I not install the woodworking vise on the end.
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jimreed2160

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Bob, it looks like fine furniture to me too but the vise would be a dead give away. The Queen really likes the "island". It may be that I turned it so she can't see the "Husky" label.
 
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