Search results

A glazier that handles commercial glass should be able to supply a replacement piece with minimal fuss. It wont be cheap though.

I like the bed frame idea, I might just have to do something similar, I hate cutting sheet on the floor.

If you have a blower attached and you vary the frequency the blower will react accordingly, the results may be undesirable.

I like the electrode holders. Couple of suggestions you may find useful.... Lanthanated electrodes, one electrode for pretty much everything. If you use a single colour electrode for all material you can sharpen both ends without having to worry about losing the colour banding. Have a look on...

Yes, it is possible, you will need to spend some time on getting the length of the rivet right to start with (ie a few practices). You may also need to spend some time shaping the dies so they fit the constraints of the part without damaging them.

I'm curious as to what precision machine was dismembered to get the cast plate with a Bausch and Lomb label on it?

For those of you struggling with the relationship between voltage and current.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law

Use the correct tools/techniques and you wont have that issue. I use a Panduit GS2B or GS4H depending on the size of the cable tie. If I cant get a cable tie tool into the space I use a pair of Crescent flush cutters and apply a little bit of tension to the tail while I cut it off, this pulls...

Its possible the blade isn't square to the frame. What sort of saw is it?

They do work, but it helps if you add a piece of timber to it to make the guide edge longer. My weapon of choice for larger items is a variation on this theme.. http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/reviews/a3602/4283497/

Personally, I would use a burr for mass material removal, and then use a 2" Roloc disc for finishing the last bit.

Assuming you have some form of saw that cuts a mitre then it is the easiest way forward, it will require you to spend the time accurately setting the fence to the blade at 45deg though. As a general rule of thumb, the numbers on the saw base are always off target :lol: Minimise the run-out on...

When my small roll cab caught my drill press after a random act of stupidity on my part I had to purchase OEM slides for it (its not an International though). Try getting a local tool store to get them in as a spare or contact the rep for you. Turned out in my case, they weren't overly...

Re: HF 44 tool box owners ?? Take some scraps of seat belt webbing tied into loops (overhand knot is fine, wont come undone). Your handles wont get scratched and the straps are guaranteed to fit. Edit.. Ive just re-read what you are trying to do. If they don't fit you have a welder, I'm sure...

If the adjustable angle on the base is the main issue here then you will struggle to find a cordless currently available that doesn't have this feature. I have the current Metabo cordless, whilst the sole plate is flat on the two sides to allow it to run against a guide, it still has the...

A couple of rolls of electrical tape in my roll cab, and everything else in a plastic box on the shelf.

They came with the cases, but I got rid of them when they split, they were kind of bulky. In one of the drawers. I thought about a screwdriver holder, might have to have a look at a few options and see if anything is suitable They do, they generally have a socket drive and you apply force...

Looking for ideas on how to store T handle Allen keys in a roll cab. Not interested in a stand on a shelf or a wall hanger. Currently I have a set of Bondhus metric and imperial keys just kind of scattered in a shallower drawer, its not really working for me. Anyone got any ideas that might help?

There are no good parts.. he is ******* painful to watch. Cliffnotes.. He takes an overhead electric winch, attaches it to the tube roller to power it, and wastes 42minutes of your time explaining how to do it.

Contact Shimano and buy the OEM parts, it will work out cheaper.