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When we did some work in a Wrigley Gum factory in Chicago they had topped the old slabs with 2" of sand and poured new concrete over the top. Forklifts and all kinds of traffic on them and they all looked good, didn't even know until we started sawcutting for new lines in the slab.

Build a soffit around it, a little coordination between the tin knocker and the plumber would have fixed it at the start. Almost looks like a St. 22 1/2 coming out of the tee not a St. 45, with no access to above the tee a broken fitting will start a snowball rolling.

Flush valve or tank type ?

Tables are out there, got this one for $50 a few months ago.

I've had the pleasure of witnessing a few PVC DWV failures with only 5 PSI being used, it's not so much the pressure but the volume involved, a 10' standpipe filled with water accomplishes the same thing with no danger other than getting wet.

I'll throw my 2 cents in. They have wet vented the shower with the lab sink, that's OK. The WC right now is not vented and you won't have a CO on the main. Take the 2" bathroom sink line and cut it back as close to the shower as you can and cap it, not going to use it anymore. On the downstream...

They both come with a cartridge. From the 8370HD spec sheet .... CARTRIDGE •1222HD brass cartridge design •Brass construction stainless steel materials •Accommodates back to back installations

Go to the item and click on support for spec's, the commercial valve has stops and a brass 1222HD cartridge, the other one has no stops and a 1222 plastic cartridge shipped loose in the box, so not the same valve body. On the old valves the stops were screwed on, now they are part of the valve...

Install it like they did originally, pre-fab a short piece of copper to the MIP adapter and the use a coupling . You can see the original coupling used in the one pic.

PVC sch. 40 would be my last choice.

Odds are you'll be chipping concrete anyway to set a FG pan, the drain usually extends below the floor.

Do the 4-90's, one at a time with a torpedo level in the ditch easy. Make up the other piece on a flat level surface and glue it up, drop it in the ditch and glue it to the other 2-90's. Trying to use repair couplings you'll end up not getting a 4" one to the right spot before it sets, been...

Had a patio foam jacked and leveled 5 years ago, hasn't dropped since. They raised it 2 - 2 1/2" and gave a guarantee that the would redo it if it dropped more than a 1/4".

You're just paying extra money for the warranty length.

Frost tooth.

Drain the line, cut it at the nick and solder a repair coupling over it.

You don't want a tee, use a wye and a st. 45 or a combo. A tee on it's back in drainage hasn't been an approved fitting since the 80's.

Some homes back then were built in R+D Thiels shop, they had jigs for all the walls, trusses were all prefab, came on a truck with a crane. As long as the foundation was square they went up fast . I did plumbing in lot's of homes in the suburbs in the 80', 90's, 00's and there were good framing...

Just put a 45 on the vertical line and roll a long sweep 90 up to it on the horizontal line. The one 90 in the first pic isn't even a DWV fitting.

Running the shower drain above the floor, the p-trap will determine the floor height, a 2" trap will be tough to fit in 6". Running the new lav into the old shower drain you'll have a double trap it you put one at the sink location too.