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Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT 3rd time's a charm with a 3 car workshop

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
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loganb

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The farm I live on has electric power to the pivot, but the well has an old 504 NA Case diesel power unit on it. It is kind of silly, but it is also kind of nice. With no generator on the power unit, we can run it at whatever RPM we want to, go get the water flow we like (old well, it is sucking air somewhere), and with no electric motor on the well, we don't ever get shut down for load control.

The old man use to have all of his pivots running off diesel, but over the past twenty years, he has been switching over to electric on some. He now has five pivots on electric (well and pivot), and three on diesel (with a generator for the pivot). He was split down the middle, but he switched one more this winter.

Martin


Sounds pretty similar

We used to run 2 of the wells with Chrysler slant-6's, one of them was still in it's donor of an '81 or '82 dodge pickup frame. Pulled the bed, cut the frame and put a hitch on it and pretty comical to see it being trailered back to get hooked up in June or July! When we moved that field from flood irrigation to pivot it was going to be woefully underpowered for the pivot but there was already a power pole with 3 phase service 10' from where that well was so it was easy to move that one electric. We've also got a surface water permit there for when the adjacent river is high enough we can pump straight from the river, that's run by an 855 Cummins that was retired from fire pump duty at a factory.

The other slant 6 powered well eventually wore out the power unit and it got replaced with a Chevy 4.3L V6 out of Mom's old van....had 250k miles on it but was still running strong...van body and everything else was a different story though. So that slightly more modern engine powered it for a couple years, then when that field went to pivot from flood it became electric as again the power service was already in the field so hookup costs were minimal.

The 2 remaining fields are both running green diesel units, you can get away with a lot less power when it's flood irrigation but once it goes to the pivot, especially with that big end gun on there the power units output becomes more important to the success.
 
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RickP

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Then you get this after pushing print to the Bambu....a cheap PETG filament, 5 hour print...

1709219200594.png
That's a really good idea for using your printer! Now I'm thinking about new dust collection fittings that I could print. Why did you pick PETG? I've only used PLA so far, but I just picked up a roll of ABS for about the same price.
 
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loganb

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That's a really good idea for using your printer! Now I'm thinking about new dust collection fittings that I could print. Why did you pick PETG? I've only used PLA so far, but I just picked up a roll of ABS for about the same price.

Great question! PETG was picked over PLA as it's a stronger, but mostly because it was loaded up in the printer already and I had more black PETG then I had black PLA. I've printed some tool connections/hose adapters out of PLA and have had no issues with it, but the extra strength for this location made me feel better.

PETG prints really well and will most likely print easier for you than ABS. ABS really likes enclosed machines and keeping the print warm while it prints...PETG normally doesn't care. Biggest issue I think people have with PETG is stringing of the filament, generally due to damp filament. PLA is very forgiving to humidity and just doesn't absorb that much moisture from the air, but PETG isn't as tolerant so keep it sealed up and if you get stringing on the print look into drying it either with an off the shelf filament drier or by sticking it in the oven
 

racer-john

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The old man use to have all of his pivots running off diesel, but over the past twenty years, he has been switching over to electric on some. He now has five pivots on electric (well and pivot), and three on diesel (with a generator for the pivot). He was split down the middle, but he switched one more this winter.

Martin
[/QUOTE]
Sorry, I'm a city type. What is this "pivot" ur talking about?
 
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loganb

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The old man use to have all of his pivots running off diesel, but over the past twenty years, he has been switching over to electric on some. He now has five pivots on electric (well and pivot), and three on diesel (with a generator for the pivot). He was split down the middle, but he switched one more this winter.

Martin
Sorry, I'm a city type. What is this "pivot" ur talking about?
[/QUOTE]

No worries and thanks for commenting...happy to share!

For a large part of the US, irrigation is used to improve crop yields just like it's used to make yards look better...this is just on a larger scale. Some areas such as Western Kansas it's either irrigate or you don't get a crop as there just isn't enough natural rainfall. Wells can be varying depths, from 75 to 100' for areas with very high water tables to deep wells that can be over 1,000 ft deep, power requirements vary based on how much you're pumping but are either done via electric motors or a gas/diesel/propane/nat gas powered engine

Flood irrigation is using a series of pipes, generally 6" or 8" diameter where we farm that have openings (we call them gates) to allow the water you pumped out of the ground to run down the rows like this:

1709301900667.png


You then get to go and open/close the gates every 8 or 12 or 24 hours depending on what you're doing. So more labor intensive but much cheaper to do. For us, we use mostly 8" aluminum pipe in 30' sticks and it gets put out after the fields planted and ready to irrigate, then you go back and pick it up before harvest. It's a pretty straight forward job as the pipe is pretty light, but ideally takes 3 people, 1 to drive the truck and 2 to pickup/put down pipe. As my brother and my available labor disappeared from the farm as we went to college etc, flood irrigation was generally replaced by pivots and now we put out 1 trailer of pipe for a little 30 acre portion of a field we can't get with the pivot system.

Pivots are the classic trade off of buying your time back with a capital purchase:

1709302015361.png

The common style where we farm is a system like this which rotates around a center base/tower, hence the name center pivot irrigation as it's pivoting around the center point. Each tower has a pair of wheels on it so it slowly makes an arc thru the field. Water is pumped up at the center pivot point, then flows thru the arched main pipe towards the end. The nozzles/spray heads then tap into that main pipe and have a calibrated head on them to put out the desired amount of water. You then control the total "rainfall amount" by how fast you run the pivot around the field...need to put more on....just slow it down....speed it up for lighter amounts. Wheel motors are generally electric and are provided that power by the discussed hookup to the grid, or by an engine power unit spinning a generator to provide the required energy.

They can be setup to based on the field layout to spin a full circle, half circle, quarter etc, just depends on what you're looking for and what arrangement gives you the best coverage and flexibility. With the proper equipment and permits you can also apply some fertilizer and chemicals with the water directly to the crops, reducing the need to run equipment thru the field.

When you fly over an ag area, the "crop circles" like shown below from a satellite shot of western Nebraska are each a location of a center pivot irrigation system. Most of these circles are watering a "quarter section" of land or 1/4 of a square mile which is 160 acres. Because of the corners you don't actually get full coverage of all 160 acres, so many people will plant a different crop in the corners that isn't irrigated. The circles shown here are each around 1,400' radius, so likely a 7 or 8 "tower" or "section" pivot

1709302468721.png

A video from Valley who is one of the major manufacturers of these give a better overview of them is here:



With the right features/options you can monitor status and control them remotely as well from a computer or smartphone and when they complete their "cycle" as you set it up they should shut down and wait till they're told to run again. When it's time to harvest you will normally clear out a spot in the field to swing the pivot into so it's out of the way, then you can go about the harvest without any issues other than watching out for the pivot tracks where the wheels go. They can get a bit deep at times and you don't want to hit those at full speed with the tractor!
 

legenddc

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Very cool to learn. I've seen the pivots but I've never seen the flood irrigation, mostly because you wouldn't from the road.

Did you watch Clarkson's Farm on Amazon Prime? I enjoyed watching Jeremy Clarkson try and run a farm.
 

OutlawDrifter

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1709301900667.png



Great googley moogley! Put some socks on those gates, you're washing away all the top soil :ROFLMAO:

Aluminum pipe makes a great long barreled cannon when you've got a skunk wedged in...just put a decent oxy/acetylene mixture and close the gates...100yds is my best range stepped off. You get to replace most of the gates afterwards, but its sooooo worth it. We had 1 farm that had all 12" and 10" pipe, hated that one, it was pvc, but still heavy as hell. Took a big head of water to feed it. Everything else was 8". 97% of our stuff came out of the canal system that fed from 3 different reservoirs in WY/CO. If you ever get over to the dam at Lake McConaughy, it has a really cool display of all the irrigation canals in western NE/eastern WY.
 
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loganb

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1709301900667.png

Great googley moogley! Put some socks on those gates, you're washing away all the top soil :ROFLMAO:

LOL...should've clarified that wasn't my picture :) But I had a similar thought....if I had set that pipe with the gates up like that it would've been an opportunity to break it back down and fix it!

Aluminum pipe makes a great long barreled cannon when you've got a skunk wedged in...just put a decent oxy/acetylene mixture and close the gates...100yds is my best range stepped off. You get to replace most of the gates afterwards, but its sooooo worth it.

Ok that's awesome! We had one set of high pressure twist lock pipe laid out in a terrace channel for when we pumped manure out of the lagoon to either then feed a tow behind injector or run it down the rows that sat open for a couple years and we had a couple skunk families in that one when we picked it up. We weren't creative enough to make it a giant potato gun though and flushed them out with water

We had 1 farm that had all 12" and 10" pipe, hated that one, it was pvc, but still heavy as hell. Took a big head of water to feed it. Everything else was 8". 97% of our stuff came out of the canal system that fed from 3 different reservoirs in WY/CO. If you even get over to the dam at Lake McConaughy, it has a really cool display of all the irrigation canals in western NE/eastern WY.

Oh give me aluminum over PVC pipe all day long....the aluminum is easy to carry as it's stiff and doesn't flex....that 30' stick of PVC might sag 1 to 2' in the middle and it's bouncing around as you're trying to carry it then swing it up and onto the trailer. We'd always lay PVC in 1 field adjacent to a river as if that river flooded out of the banks we were "more ok" with the PVC getting washed away then the nicer and more expensive aluminum pipe. We had some solid pipe without any gates that was 10" I think but I don't recall every laying it out for usage.
 

RickP

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PETG prints really well and will most likely print easier for you than ABS. ABS really likes enclosed machines and keeping the print warm while it prints...PETG normally doesn't care.
Thanks for the explanation! I'm right at the bottom of the learning curve and trying to make sense of some conflicting info on 3d printing sites. I really appreciate your first-hand knowledge and advice.
 
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loganb

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Here the only place I see the straight line/rolling units is either sod (grass) farms or some vegetable/fruit farms have them. The veggie/fruit isn't a big crop around me and is generally for farmers market type sales or a "pick yourself" operation

Very cool to learn. I've seen the pivots but I've never seen the flood irrigation, mostly because you wouldn't from the road.

Did you watch Clarkson's Farm on Amazon Prime? I enjoyed watching Jeremy Clarkson try and run a farm.

Flood irrigation is really a regional thing...some areas have it and others don't. And for areas that have it, it can really vary how they do it. As Marc mentioned there are canal systems(big ditches) in some areas like California and Nebraska that you can pump out of, other areas pump via wells etc so even if you're looking you may not see it as it just may not be common in the particular area.

I haven't watched Clarkson's farm, but I do like him and their "original" Top Gear stuff so it's on my watchlist, just haven't gotten to it yet.
 
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loganb

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Well she spins....and in the right direction! Now to do a more stable mounting of the blower and then get rid of the temp wiring. The wireless remote is to make it easy to kill power to the vfd but will need to come up with a remote start/stop/speed control

20240302_144716.jpg
 
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loganb

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Thanks for the explanation! I'm right at the bottom of the learning curve and trying to make sense of some conflicting info on 3d printing sites. I really appreciate your first-hand knowledge and advice.

Happy to share what I've learned.

If you've got an enclosed machine, once you get used to ABS it prints wonderfully if you can manage the smell, warping and layer separation. ABS has a significant odor and should be printed in a well ventilated space or with a printer with fume extraction and filters if you're doing it without the venting. Personally it will give me a headache if I print it in the Voron I've got in my office without the window open. Warping of the print off the build plate is probably the biggest printability issue people have. Ways to manage this includes a larger brim around the part, bumping up bed temp or running a secondary heater in the print chamber to bump up the ambient temp while printing.

I also have struggled with layer to layer adhesion, especially resistance to impacts. The ones I've done seem to want to break at layer lines more then PLA or PETG. But if the part needs resistance to higher temps, ABS or it's more modern variant ASA(UV stable) are the common choices.

The biggest downfall to PLA is it's resistance to heat, otherwise it's really pretty impressive how much it can do, how easily a quality filament prints on reliable machines and how cost effective it is.

Here is a good video showing some of the physical strength differences and failure modes between PLA, PETG and ABS from one of my favorite printing related channels CNC Kitchen:

 
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loganb

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**** clamps!

Those clamps are sweet. I've got one I use constantly compared to the others in my rack.

Thanks Gents! I should've bought a lot more last fall when they dropped under 10 bucks a piece...I still have about $100 bucks in that collection so I can't complain at all other then I don't use them much. Upgrading my welding capabilities is on the list of upgrades after I get the half dozen other projects "more finished"....have to figure out where the small welding table would go first.
 
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loganb

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Get way more excited about these boxes then Amazon

20240307_161933.jpg

That MTW wire removed a procrastination excuse on the drill press so trying to get progress on it going again

20240307_171019.jpg

Already had 3 existing wires for the disconnect so only needed to pull 1. Now the wires on the top of the rotary are hitting the casting to going to see if I can get the rotary moved far enough down for clearance without causing issues with the reverse switch
 
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loganb

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That looks like a tight fit haha

Definitely....thought I had enough space for wiring....wrong

Futzed with it a bit and just hit print on 2 new face plates

face plates.jpg

Moves the rotary power vfd disconnect down 3/8" of an inch which should give enough clearance for wires, then swapped the directional switch and on/off around between the 2 cover plates. I think due to how the wire plugs are done this will allow the space....should find out tomorrow....or tonight if I can't sleep as it's only a 2 hour print.
 
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loganb

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We are toying with buying a 3d printer for my son for his birthday. Something entry level..... but something tells me that will spiral into having one we share or my own.....

I have a Prusa mk3 that would be a great starter machine....

But honestly...it or the Bambu A1 or A1 mini is where I would suggest if budget can support $500

The Prusa is extremely reliable, huge community for support if required, and are still being supported by the manuf and aftermarket communities. The Enders/Creality can be great machines when they work....but their reliability and build quality isn't there

The Bambu A1 and offspring is newer, but other then a power cable issue being handled...it appears to be a good machine plus gives color change ability.

So yes, a Prusa or A1 will be more money then a creality or Ender, but I think you're want to give a gift, not a headache.

Or.....

You go full send on a Bambu P1S or X1c and share it with him!
 
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loganb

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I have a Prusa mk3 that would be a great starter machine....

But honestly...it or the Bambu A1 or A1 mini is where I would suggest if budget can support $500

The Prusa is extremely reliable, huge community for support if required, and are still being supported by the manuf and aftermarket communities. The Enders/Creality can be great machines when they work....but their reliability and build quality isn't there

The Bambu A1 and offspring is newer, but other then a power cable issue being handled...it appears to be a good machine plus gives color change ability.

So yes, a Prusa or A1 will be more money then a creality or Ender, but I think you're want to give a gift, not a headache.

Or.....

You go full send on a Bambu P1S or X1c and share it with him!

I should also clarify here....

$450 to $500 around here buys a used Prusa Mk3s+ on FB Marketplace etc. Bambu A1 Mini with AMS Lite is 459 new, the full sized A1 with AMS lite is 559 but won't ship till May I think

Surprise here this morning, had a chance of it but wasn't expecting this much on the ground....kids got excited with it:

morning surprise.jpg

65 degrees on Sunday....I love March snows...they don't stick around long!

Progress....though the right button was just a bit too close to the edge and was hitting the casting just barely once I put the wire plug connector on the button. Quick model update and it's printing maybe the final one....for now?

drill press fri.jpg
 
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loganb

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No snow here, two hours West of you.

Martin

Drive this way really fast and you can see it! LOL you're probably sick of it...though the moisture is always appreciated

I might be able to find a spot 2" deep if I look hard. Reinforces why I haven't put Pre-Emergent down on the yard as it needs to be watered in and I didn't want to put water into the sprinkler line yet....probably next week
 

Blackbyrd

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Thanks for the feedback @loganb !

I'll add those to the list, my wife had suggested one they have at their school but I've not dug into it yet. Figured this is a kind of big ticket gift, but I want it to be something he can use near out of the box.
 
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loganb

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Closer.....spindle speed sensor mounted and cable lead is into the box

20240310_090742.jpg

I managed to loose the wiring connector to the readout in the 6 ish months since I bought it....oops. A cable crimp set will be this afternoon to make a new one

And maybe time to clean up some stuff

20240310_090857.jpg
 
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loganb

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And a couple minutes after getting the delivery....my lack of organization and delay in finishing this was solved

20240310_120104.jpg

20240310_120112.jpg

O-ring pick set maybe there cause I might have wired it backwards the first time....

Now that it's fixed....I'm sure the original harness will turn up

Hopefully will get it wired in this afternoon, first up is a oil change for the wife's Volvo
 
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