Maxjax Installs: Post Here

[shortykorte]

Nice use of stands front and rear.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Nice use of stands front and rear.

Thanks, I had some 3" pipe kicking around so I whipped up a couple.I bought staging screws for $15 ea....they work great.

 

[AG1LE]

My pads are 1/4" lower on one side (posts are parallel, so it's the same 1/4" difference all the way up). Instead of trying to adjust the columns, would there be any harm in using a solid 1/4" spacer under the pads on that side?

1/4" is well within specs, but if I can get them perfectly level with spacers under the pads, why not?

 

[Mr onetwo]

I you want to be that precise, go for it.It shouldn't cause any problems, but the lifting of the cylinders won't be perfect anyway.

 

[Laucker]

I thought they were supposed to be movable?

 

[Serj_DMR]

I thought they were supposed to be movable?

The columns are indeed portable. You roll the columns into place and bolt them to the floor using recessed anchors. Once you are done with your project for the day, you unbolt the columns from the floor and roll it away! Takes 15 min or so to setup/teardown!

Feel free to call our main line if you have any further questions or concerns.

 

[Mrroo]

My latest vehicle to go up on my MaxJax. I timed myself in setting it up....20 minutes start to finish.Not bad for a guy in a wheelchair!

Love it when people are safe under the lifts!! I so hope the house we bought and moving into at the end of the month has thick enough concrete to use the MAX JAX. Im used to having a full shop to use with regular lifts. Now im out of the auto business and have to do all my work at home. Gotta make do with a 25x22 garage with 10 foot ceiling till I can build my shop.

 

[syclone50]

I have had my MaxJax for 5 years now and can't be any happier with it. I have had a lot of ups and downs with it. It has moved with me to two houses.

Old House set-up:

It even lifted my Ford Flex (which was at the suggested Max lifting)

Now at my new place. Just installed it a few days ago.

I understand per the instructions you are not supposed to install the maxjax closer than 6" to any crack/seem/edge. I asked in another post and got this answer but this thread is obviously more active. I ran across these pics and cant help bu think this guy did it why cant I? LOL

The main seem/relief cut in my garage does have a crack in it. Is this what makes it particularly unsafe? Here are two pics, one of relief cut and the other of my footing/edge where the other maxjax post would be.

Thanks guys

 

[AG1LE]

Thanks again everyone for your help with my questions. I took my time getting it installed, and finally put my car up this afternoon. Seems to be holding well. I'm thinking the pad extensions would be a good idea.

 

[jsballou]

I understand per the instructions you are not supposed to install the maxjax closer than 6" to any crack/seem/edge. I asked in another post and got this answer but this thread is obviously more active. I ran across these pics and cant help bu think this guy did it why cant I? LOL

The main seem/relief cut in my garage does have a crack in it. Is this what makes it particularly unsafe? Here are two pics, one of relief cut and the other of my footing/edge where the other maxjax post would be.

Thanks guys

I would not put the Maxjax towards the edge of the slab. I had little choice but to install the lift near the relief cut, but was lucky enough the slab was thicker than 4" in those spots. My new place, the thickness was 6" and I epoxied those anchors in.

 

[syclone50]

thanks for the reply

 

[michelin]

I'm after a transmission jack suitable for the MJ.

Anyone tried chopping the full height vertical jack? Are they hydraulic?

Any advice will be appreciated.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Take a look at this thread....http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71554 I just bought the Torin from Amazon and cut it down.Works like a charm!

 

[michelin]

Thanks OneTwo but the Torin jack is not available outside the US. I've looked everywhere for it. Usually Far Eastern made products (including Torin/Big Red) are available in Europe under the same or other name but not this jack, which is unfortunate. So I thought I'd buy and butcher the full size vertical jack but before I do, was wondering if anyone on here has attempted to do the same?

 

[hockey930]

Hey guys I know this issues has been talked about a million times but I figure what's one more time. The issue is what do you do when you have a 4in ish slab and want to use epoxy anchors? The ps2-58 is 5.75in long which would go though the slab. The way these anchors are designed to work is that you fill the hole epoxy about half way up and as your hammer in the anchor it forces the epoxy back up and around the anchor. If you have drilled through your slab then it will not work properly.
Has anyone used the ps2-12 anchors? They are a bit smaller and also have a a half inch less of threading in the top of them which would maximize the amount of the anchor that is adhering to the concrete by another half an inch.
I just worry that the ps2-58 will stick out of the slab by an inch and a half and then you have an inch and a half on the top that is not binding it to the concrete that the tinsel strength has gone way down on that anchor.
I am not an engineer, just a guy trying to figure stuff out.

 

[nholmes]

If your hardware cloth is long enough and can create a "tube" between the bottom of the slab and the dirt in the void, you can fill it with enough epoxy to have it protrude up and around the anchor.

 

[Heel2toe]

Whatsup Noah!? Love seeing evom peeps on here...hope your Maxjax is working out well for you! Sorry to derail I'll go back to my corner now...

 

[nholmes]

Whatsup Noah!? Love seeing evom peeps on here...hope your Maxjax is working out well for you! Sorry to derail I'll go back to my corner now...

Hey dude!

Who knew cars and garages went hand-in-hand?!

 

[Heel2toe]

Haha yeah you make a good point...well, hope your new track weapon is treating you well!

 

[ymurf]

I bought a Maxjax from a guy that had never installed it. I see on allot of posts on here the handles are on the left hand side of the pump. Mine is on the right hand side. Is this ok or did someone install it wrong? I am missing several parts so haven't installed it yet. Planning on putting anchors in for the posts next week after I order some epoxy anchors from Dannmar. Have a couple questions but this has been bugging me.

 

[97dynaglide]

My handle is on the right side also. I don't think there is anything to worry about.

 

[ymurf]

My handle is on the right side also. I don't think there is anything to worry about.

So does that mean the hose that goes up to the flow divider block will be on rh side to or lh side like all I have seen on here?

 

[97dynaglide]

This is a pic of my pump setup to give you an idea of the hose locations.

My whole setup may look different than most, as I have the lift 'semi-permanently' mounted, but the hose locations should be the same as everyone else.

I do have a flow controller installed on the right side's line due to an unlevel lift condition that bleeding wouldn't fix.
I mounted the pump,tank, and flow divider onto the right mast, then ran the left's line up and along the ceiling.

 

[ymurf]

My garage floor is sloped for drainage. I set the transit up and the floor is about 1/2 to 3/4" higher where one post will mount than the other post. Is this to much? Do I need to make a plate the same footprint to raise the lower post up?

 

[ymurf]

My garage floor is sloped for drainage. I set the transit up and the floor is about 1/2 to 3/4" higher where one post will mount than the other post. Is this to much? Do I need to make a plate the same footprint to raise the lower post up?

I called Dannmare and the guy there said I can just shim the front of the post to raise the arms up even with the other side. But then the post wont be plum and seems to me like while lifting the pads will be pulling back because post isn't plum. Am I thinking wrong on this? Or is it no big deal?

 

[ochristofferson]

This is a pic of my pump setup to give you an idea of the hose locations.

My whole setup may look different than most, as I have the lift 'semi-permanently' mounted, but the hose locations should be the same as everyone else.

I do have a flow controller installed on the right side's line due to an unlevel lift condition that bleeding wouldn't fix.
I mounted the pump,tank, and flow divider onto the right mast, then ran the left's line up and along the ceiling.

I have a similar issue with uneven lifting even after bleeding repeatedly. Can you provide some information (Manufacturer, PN, specs, etc.) for the Flow Controller that you are using?
Thanks in advance!

 

[SB440R/T]

Got mine with the Costco deal had to rework the sloppy China workmanship lift arm spline latches all 4 were less than 50% contact easiest fix was to cut them apart and mill down the center tube re-weld & refinish here are some pics of the before and after rework and the daily driver Dodge up for a oil change.

Slick, what distance did you set up your lift at? I have a dakota also so seeing what worked well for you. Thanks

 

[ymurf]

Finally got mine done.

Since i had to re-pour a part of my slab there was no reason not to use epoxy anchors, had them on hand anyway. Did the holes at about 7" for some wiggle room.

Directions state to set anchors in with 2 direct blows. Well My advice is not to smack the anchors, or you will get epoxy jizzz all over your face. While it sounds ***** and exciting, its not fun. After my 2nd anchor i ended up tapping them in slowly allowing compressed air and epoxy work its way out. While it may be obvious , i must point out, slit on the anchor is where it comes out. So if you do plan to smack it, face it away from you or cover with a rag.

1/3 of the hole(not through slab) is about the perfect amount. Anything more and you will have gobs and gobs squeezing out and wasting epoxy.

It was just 70 outside the day i set them and when i slacked around double checking holes and the epoxy hardened inside the injection tube. Not all the way but enough to make it too difficult to push out. Not even 10 min(when i switched and moved stuff from one column to other)

Had to add anti chatter as some other people have. Maxjax claimed if you lube the blocks there will be no bouncing, sorry but bs. My lift bounced quite bad after 2/3 way up. This hydro system is very picky about the fluid you use. Maxjax need to specify an specific brand/type so people dont have this issue. Simply stating ATF/Hydrolic Fluid is not enough. In fact this agitates me quite a bit, after spending 2k on a lift and no specific fluid req i had to spend 30$ on CAT additive and almost two hours in traffic to get it.

If anyone is looking to save a few bucks i have two laser levels(not a penny more than i paid with 20% coupon just dont feel like going to HF to return) , drill bits, extra epoxy 2.5 tubes and CAT additive. PM me if interested. Oh and Wedge Anchors.

Depite the little issues i am very happy so far. Little Harbor Freight stool is too tall, being 6 1 ft tall is a *****. Will have to find a way to droop the stool couple of inches.

PM Sent.

 

[syclone50]

anyone know where these are on sale right now. I heard costco had a deal on them but they are no longer on their site

 

[hockey930]

Does anyone have access to any single Hilti HIS series anchors? I am looking to buy 1.

 

[bonecrrusher]

I have completed 2 Max Jax installs.

The latest was in my new shop - and I put the MaxJax out of the way in the third bay.

The install was fairly smooth - this time I decided to go with Epoxy anchors - which was all fine and dandy until I ran out of Epoxy. I had to order 2 more tubes online.

I modified my lift a bit - I bought some of those 90* hose fittings to prevent tripping over the hoses laying on the floor.

In the new shop - I mounted the Power Cart onto the wall as I was sick of dealing with that being at the front of my shop by my work bench.

I also ended up buying some Race Ramp Scale Weight Ramps to get my low Corvette up in the air to slide the arms under.

I have Race Deck installed under my lift - I bought a large oil drip tray to catch fluids when I'm out working on stuff under it.

I bought the Greg Smith Short jackstands - and have used them numerous times.

I also bought the Torin transmission jack - and used it to drop the rear diff, transmission, and torque tube on my C6 with no issues.

I bought the Harbor Freight 5 Gallon oil catch can - I took out the middle extension pipe and it is at the perfect height when the lift is all the way up to catch oil.

Now for the pics:

 

[Mr onetwo]

Excellent work! That is a bit tight. How do you get the lift arms in position under the car?

 

[skamp]

Very nice! So you attached the rear subframe to the jack (or ******), disconnected the torque tube and took down the whole assembly? I have a C6 and Maxjax as well and will need to do the clutch soon. This is great info. Any more details on this?

Steve

 

[bonecrrusher]

Excellent work! That is a bit tight. How do you get the lift arms in position under the car?

Look at the first 2 pics - I have Race Ramp Scale Weight ramps that I drive up on.

Then I swing the arms out - and lift the Vette up.

On my SS - I just drive in, swing the arms out - and lift it up.

 

[bonecrrusher]

Very nice! So you attached the rear subframe to the jack (or ******), disconnected the torque tube and took down the whole assembly? I have a C6 and Maxjax as well and will need to do the clutch soon. This is great info. Any more details on this?

Steve

I attached the trans jack to the transmission - tied it off with the safety chain.

Take out the center console.
Remove the shifter boot.
Remove the shifter box assembly.
Disconnect shifter to trans cable line.
Disconnect the trans cooler lines.
Remove the exhaust.
Remove the torque tube plate (~40 bolts).
Disconnect the upper control arms.
Disconnect the brake lines from the frame.
Remove the harness from the Diff, trans, ABS sensors, as well as top of the torque tube.
Loosen the front subframe / cradle bolts.
Loosen the engine mount bolts.
Remove the 8 or so torque tube to bellhousing bolts.
Pull backwards on the torque tube and it should slide out of the bell housing.

That should be a good starting guide - I'm not sure if I found a good thread on CorvetteForum to help out or not.

While your in there - replace the slave cylinder on the front of the torque tube - and install a Tick Performance Speed Bleeder - it will help you bleed the clutch hydraulic system when you are done.

 

[skamp]

I attached the trans jack to the transmission - tied it off with the safety chain.

Take out the center console.
Remove the shifter boot.
Remove the shifter box assembly.
Disconnect shifter to trans cable line.
Disconnect the trans cooler lines.
Remove the exhaust.
Remove the torque tube plate (~40 bolts).
Disconnect the upper control arms.
Disconnect the brake lines from the frame.
Remove the harness from the Diff, trans, ABS sensors, as well as top of the torque tube.
Loosen the front subframe / cradle bolts.
Loosen the engine mount bolts.
Remove the 8 or so torque tube to bellhousing bolts.
Pull backwards on the torque tube and it should slide out of the bell housing.

That should be a good starting guide - I'm not sure if I found a good thread on CorvetteForum to help out or not.

While your in there - replace the slave cylinder on the front of the torque tube - and install a Tick Performance Speed Bleeder - it will help you bleed the clutch hydraulic system when you are done.

Thanks for the details. I have seen a few threads on the forum but like you said none of them are very comprehensive. The slave will be replaced for sure and I have seen several threads on the Tick bleeder so that is going in for sure.

Steve

 

[bonecrrusher]

Thanks for the details. I have seen a few threads on the forum but like you said none of them are very comprehensive. The slave will be replaced for sure and I have seen several threads on the Tick bleeder so that is going in for sure.

Steve

I also replaced the rear main seal, the input bearing, and the aluminum housing on the back of the engine while I was in there. I didn't really need to but since I was in there - and these cars a PITA to take apart I didn't want to have to do it again.

Pics can be found on my build thread - you will have to scroll back a few pages.

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=27408&page=34

 

[syclone50]

boneccrusher, any issue with mounting that drivers side post that close to your footing. I am in the same boat you are with installing it in my 3rd bay and was told it would be too close to the footing seam/crack?

 

[NewShockerGuy]

It's nice that the newer style pump has a drain at the bottom AND is clear... mine is black (what dumb *** thought of that) and with no drain hole...

I like my maxjax but looking at the newer pictures of these makes me wonder why they didn't come out like that in the first place. No common sense really.

-Nigel

 

[captainkarl]

boneccrusher, any issue with mounting that drivers side post that close to your footing. I am in the same boat you are with installing it in my 3rd bay and was told it would be too close to the footing seam/crack?

I am in the same boat as well... Wondering what the wall to wall dimension is.