Provincial
Well-known member
Vinegar isn't a bad thing. You just have to keep an eye on it or it can go too far.
rust removal
- Thread starter elidas
- Start date
d42jeep
Well-known member
Here is a little project where the rust removal was only done with my wire wheel. I wanted to retain the dark finish so elected not to use evaporust. I also wanted to use the original handle so I had to glue and clamp the handle. I sanded the handle lightly to remove the excess glue yet retain some of the patina.
-Don
-Don
Shiftless
Well-known member
That came out great, Don.
Is there a specific name for that shape and size of hammer?
Is there a specific name for that shape and size of hammer?
d42jeep
Well-known member
Thanks. I think they are just called cross pein hammers
d42jeep
Well-known member
This thread has fallen into disuse but it seemed the perfect place to post the large quantity of rusty auger bits I’ve found and cleaned up recently. I found a large batch a week ago that I cleaned up and then found another batch on Saturday. All of the more rusty ones spent an overnight in the Evaporust and then were cleaned manually with a hand wire brush. Any that didn’t come reasonably clean we’re finished off with the 3M 220 disc.
Last weeks haul cleaned up.
Saturdays bits before cleaning
A series of after pictures
Irwin bits
Craftsman bits
Long bit
-Don
Last weeks haul cleaned up.
Saturdays bits before cleaning
A series of after pictures
Irwin bits
Craftsman bits
Long bit
-Don
bmwrd0
Well-known member
Speaking of rust removal, using a techique not too far removed from Don's I was able to save the original paint on this belt guard:
to
I soaked it overnight, took a brass wire brush to the more stubborn parts, and polished with Johnsons paste wax. I am pretty happy with the results. It isn't perfect, but what is?
to
I soaked it overnight, took a brass wire brush to the more stubborn parts, and polished with Johnsons paste wax. I am pretty happy with the results. It isn't perfect, but what is?
Jayman17
Well-known member
Great results guys, those items came out nice.
Shiftless
Well-known member
Thanks for reviving this thread you guys…
It‘s one of the many on GJ where I have learned new techniques and tricks to accomplish my goals.
It‘s one of the many on GJ where I have learned new techniques and tricks to accomplish my goals.
Farmer J.
Well-known member
Those came out nice. I need to do that!This thread has fallen into disuse but it seemed the perfect place to post the large quantity of rusty auger bits I’ve found and cleaned up recently. I found a large batch a week ago that I cleaned up and then found another batch on Saturday. All of the more rusty ones spent an overnight in the Evaporust and then were cleaned manually with a hand wire brush. Any that didn’t come reasonably clean we’re finished off with the 3M 220 disc.
Last weeks haul cleaned up.
Saturdays bits before cleaning
A series of after pictures
Irwin bits
Craftsman bits
Long bit
-Don
y'sguy
Well-known member
This belt guard is great. Can you even imagine getting that kind of quality and material today. Thanks for bringing it back to life and posting.Speaking of rust removal, using a techique not too far removed from Don's I was able to save the original paint on this belt guard:
to
I soaked it overnight, took a brass wire brush to the more stubborn parts, and polished with Johnsons paste wax. I am pretty happy with the results. It isn't perfect, but what is?
d42jeep
Well-known member
These tin snips that I picked up on Saturday offended me so I worked on them today. Wire wheel first, 3M 220 rotary wheel next and finished up with a 3M roloc disc on my die grinder. Oh yeah, I knocked off some nicks on the cutting surface with a fine file. After finishing I rubbed the bare steel area with fluid film.
-Don
Before
After
-Don
Before
After
Tactile
Well-known member
Great thread this...was wondering if anyone has tried cleaning those 3M radial bristle brushes in an ultrasonic cleaner when they get grimy?
d42jeep
Well-known member
I haven’t tried that. I’ve been using mine for quite a while and haven’t felt the need to clean them. Any residue left on the polished pieces wipes off with a little brake cleaner.
-Don
-Don
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d42jeep
Well-known member
This large USN marked spoon I found yesterday was cleaned up with an overnight soak in evaporust and after rinsing with water, any remaining residue was cleaned off with fine steel wool and a hand wire brush to get into the channel. 
-Don
-Don
Where can I get the 3M wheels?I haven’t tried that. I’ve been using mine for quite a while and haven’t felt the need to clean them. Any residue left on the polished pieces wipes off with a little brake cleaner.
-Don
d42jeep
Well-known member
I do searches on eBay and wait for one that is slightly less expensive than the tool suppliers want. They are never cheap but they seem to last a long time.
-Don
-Don
What prices are people paying these days for the 6" radial bristle brushes? I recently set up a 400 grit a friend who was going out of business had given me on one of my old bench lathes, it's great for a pre-polish type finish but what I really need is the red 220. Just don't want to pay $100 for it.
RTM
Well-known member
$63 in 2021
$80 now
But goodness, if you wear one out, you can get refills cheaper.
(40) 6” 3M Scotch-Brite Ceramic Radial Bristle Brush Disc T-C Refill 220 Grit | eBay
New box of 40 Scotch-Brite Radial Bristle Discs. Ceramic aluminum oxide abrasive. 2” arbor requires special mounting hub / adapter to mount on bench grinder or angle grinder. Hub is NOT included. Arbor for mounting not included.
www.ebay.com
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macgee
Well-known member
I just looked, the recent prices have gone sky high but Keep searching and stay patient (if you have the time). You can find them on eBay occasionally pop up for $40 but it may take a while, and when they do they go real fast. The killer deals will always come up after you bought one : ) Just make sure your getting the 6" or 7" diameter wheel size, they also make (mini-me) small ones that can look the same so be careful..
The 220 is definitely the go-to grit for these wheels, I love them; couldn't imagine not having one. The 400 is just the icing, but the 220 does most of the major work and well worth it (both of them are).
If you keep them clean and don't abuse them, they last a long time. When they get dirty, you end up using them much longer each time because they take twice as long to do the same job, and this speeds up their wear.
It's like trying to use sand paper thats loaded up.
I recently purchased 40 discs (8 sets) for #220 grit "33213" scotch-brite replacement wheels (w/o adapter mount) for $35. Last year I passed on 8 #220 wheels complete, new in own boxes on eBay auction for $35 total +ship because I now have so many.
Just be patient, create yourself a saved eBay search watch for "3M 220 33213" with email notification to tell you when a new listing comes up. But there a pain to search for because the searches pull up a lot of other products as well. Also search for Bristle Brush 220, Scotch Brite 220......etc.
If you already have an adapter mount, then this is a killer deal below, its the slightly larger diameter ones (7-5/8") compared to the standard 6" size. When Scotch-Brite wheels spin, it does shrink in size a bit with the centrifugal force, so it's just slightly larger than 6" when spinning.
$24 shipped
PS> d42jeep: Keep up the good work!
* Here's one example of using the 220 & 400 wheels, both of these Rockwell-Delta retirement lamps were badly pitted like golf balls, all crusty white from the bad kind of electrolysis, one worse than the other. The scotch brite wheels made for quick work, then used a polishing wheel, and then finished them hand rubbing them with fine silverware polish compound. The Hubble lamp sockets were also done with 440. In fact, all the metal pieces and bases in pic were also scotch-Brite'd
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nadogail
Well-known member
make pickles
Great info, thanks, and that is some pretty old metal! And yeah I already have them in all the smaller sizes, I've been using the mini ones on flex shaft rotary tools for years and recently started running the 2" and 3" on die grinders when I added air to the garage. Definitely my favorite abrasive technology. I wonder why these things are marketed as "for occupational use only" and not marketed to DIYers at all, they're much safer than wire wheels and nothing else finishes like them.I just looked, the recent prices have gone sky high but Keep searching and stay patient (if you have the time). You can find them on eBay occasionally pop up for $40 but it may take a while, and when they do they go real fast. The killer deals will always come up after you bought one : ) Just make sure your getting the 6" or 7" diameter wheel size, they also make (mini-me) small ones that can look the same so be careful..
The 220 is definitely the go-to grit for these wheels, I love them; couldn't imagine not having one. The 400 is just the icing, but the 220 does most of the major work and well worth it (both of them are).
If you keep them clean and don't abuse them, they last a long time. When they get dirty, you end up using them much longer each time because they take twice as long to do the same job, and this speeds up their wear.
It's like trying to use sand paper thats loaded up.
I recently purchased 40 discs (8 sets) for #220 grit "33213" scotch-brite replacement wheels (w/o adapter mount) for $35. Last year I passed on 8 #220 wheels complete, new in own boxes on eBay auction for $35 total +ship because I now have so many.
Just be patient, create yourself a saved eBay search watch for "3M 220 33213" with email notification to tell you when a new listing comes up. But there a pain to search for because the searches pull up a lot of other products as well. Also search for Bristle Brush 220, Scotch Brite 220......etc.
If you already have an adapter mount, then this is a killer deal below, its the slightly larger diameter ones (7-5/8") compared to the standard 6" size. When Scotch-Brite wheels spin, it does shrink in size a bit with the centrifugal force, so it's just slightly larger than 6" when spinning.
$24 shipped
PS> d42jeep: Keep up the good work!
* Here's one example of using the 220 & 400 wheels, both of these Rockwell-Delta retirement lamps were badly pitted like golf balls, all crusty white from the bad kind of electrolysis, one worse than the other. The scotch brite wheels made for quick work, then used a polishing wheel, and then finished them hand rubbing them with fine silverware polish compound. The Hubble lamp sockets were also done with 440. In fact, all the metal pieces and bases in pic were also scotch-Brite'd
Have you ever seen the two-piece center mount with the rings sold on its own? Those refill packs are tempting.
That light green is the 1 micron, right? Are you using this setup for polishing, and what's the prep stage you're using before the 400 grit? I've been curious about how that works, do you have any pics of the finish you're getting with 400 + 1 micron? Especially interested in how it looks on soft metals.I haven’t tried that. I’ve been using mine for quite a while and haven’t felt the need to clean them. Any residue left on the polished pieces wipes off with a little brake cleaner.
-Don
macgee
Well-known member
Nope, I've tried. Those $0.25 pieces of plastic is the gold for 3M. Without them you have to pay the big bucks for entry for each grit. TBH, buying a new complete wheel is not that expensive after using them so much. I was at a point, that they had become my most used tool in my shop, it was touching everything I was restoring; and after a while it became to point where I had worn down enough wheels, that I had extra adapters. Also had purchased lower rougher grits that I abandoned also giving me spare adapters to use.
I bet there is a way to score the adapters, but I have not found a way.
@macgee and other 6" bristle brush users, do you have any experience with the 80 grit equivalent yellow or 50 grit green wheels? What are your impressions if so? Those two are available on Amazon for $50 if anyone else wants them:
d42jeep
Well-known member
If I had to do it over, I might not order the very fine wheel. It is useful for removing some fine finish defects left after using the 400 wheel but only minimally. I haven’t done many soft metals and don’t have any examples to show. If I need to polish items with more serious finish defects, I generally start with the 220 disc and follow up with the 400. I am currently in the market for another 400 disc for my summer home since I currently only have the 220 disc here. I’ll be waiting until I find one at a fairly reasonable price. I have no interest in trying the 50 or 80 grit. macgee is the disc expert, in my opinion.
-Don
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Very helpful, thanks.If I had to do it over, I might not order the very fine wheel. It is useful for removing some fine finish defects left after using the 400 wheel but only minimally. I haven’t done many soft metals and don’t have any examples to show. If I need to polish items with more serious finish defects, I generally start with the 220 disc and follow up with the 400. I am currently in the market for another 400 disc for my summer home since I currently only have the 220 disc here. I’ll be waiting until I find one at a fairly reasonable price. I have no interest in trying the 50 or 80 grit. macgee is the disc expert, in my opinion.
-Don
Waste of potatoes.
Do you all find the radial bristle brushes work best on 1800 or 3600 rpm motors, and how much power do you like behind them? I'm looking for another grinder or buffer to run a couple of them.
This one popped up locally for $75, but the specs look maybe suspect to me, 2hp bench grinder that runs on 110v?
This one popped up locally for $75, but the specs look maybe suspect to me, 2hp bench grinder that runs on 110v?
Attachments
RTM
Well-known member
I'm running mine on a 1725 rpm 1/4 hp, and have never had it bog down. But I'm mostly working on pieces smaller than my hand, so not leaning in to it. I've found that pushing harder doesn't really help, because it seems using the tips of the bristles works best.
rust removal
The Evaporust works much better when knocking the big crud of rust off item first that would take a long time in evaporust to dissolve; also degreasing the items as much a possible before evaporust as the grease will become a stop barrier for the evaporust to get through. I am guessing this is...
www.garagejournal.com
I will be upgrading to a 1/2 hp Baldor soon to allow mounting 2 wheels simultaneously.
None of the solution methods will work in close spaces ,as for instance the fit between a vice screw and nut ..........the only methods Ive found reliable is to make a dam around the end of the nut to contain the solution ,and use dilute nitric acid .............obviously the acid will attack the metal,but it dissolves the rust faster ..... note that adequate personal protective gear is essential.
I'm running mine on a 1725 rpm 1/4 hp, and have never had it bog down. But I'm mostly working on pieces smaller than my hand, so not leaning in to it. I've found that pushing harder doesn't really help, because it seems using the tips of the bristles works best.
rust removal
The Evaporust works much better when knocking the big crud of rust off item first that would take a long time in evaporust to dissolve; also degreasing the items as much a possible before evaporust as the grease will become a stop barrier for the evaporust to get through. I am guessing this is...
I will be upgrading to a 1/2 hp Baldor soon to allow mounting 2 wheels simultaneously.
Wonder if they make them for this thing. I know some day I'll find a use for it LOL. It's kind of scary when it runs
Isn't this the correct flange? Only thing is it doesn't come with the reducer bushings, but there are a bunch available.
Why did you abandon the lower grits, do they remove excessive material even on steel?
macgee
Well-known member
Sorry for the late reply, I rarely visit here lately.
For the projects I do, I've totally abandoned any use of Bristle Brush below 220. I feel that the sweet spot for this amazing type of wheel is 220 -400, and maybe the next finer grit (pink Pumice?) but depends on your wanting to finish, the time you have and what level of finish your striving for.
Below 220, I have found using fine diameter Brass wire wheels (US-Euro Made) to be better, but many do successfully use the rougher grits with Roloc and hand grinders.
I really like solid Brass wire wheels (when needed) for my projects. Now a days I'm sure they're very expensive and very hard to find the real ones (not from china that are merely just brass plated or with something that looks like brass that comes off after light use showing the steel underneath.
If you can source a 6" very thin diameter solid brass wheel, then go for it; you'll luv but it will need to be coveted. When needing something more brutal, I then will use a fine steel wire wheel but it's rare, typically I will use a cleaner of some sort to prep and remove any hard residuals, even naval jelly to prep over a steel wire wheel
I really do not like what wire wheels do to the finish, they cause a lot of pitting. In the beginning I thought it was the rust causing the pitting, when in fact it was the wire wheel hitting the metal and causing it. I do everything I can to avoid that. If I'm painting over it or milling the finish then that is different.
If I am welding, then that is a totally different ball of wax. This thread and methods discussed here is for restoring and dealing with rust.
For me, I prefer the slower speed with Bristle Brush wheels but thats just a personal preference I found I like using, but I'v also noticed longer wear with slower rpm. I have about 5 or 6 motor wheel on pedestals, expensive ones & cheap ones, fast and slow, big and small. I am always going to my 1/2HP slow rpm motor with wide armatures using the 3M. All the others are just complimentary, and get me ready to use the 220 & 400. The biggest gain is having wheel set up with lots of elbow space for the wheels, opposite of what stone grinding wheels have. Long, smooth and balanced turning spindles is the key. Put a 220 on that, and you'll never turn back : )
Depending on the finish I want and material, I will then use a firm, well broken in cloth polishing wheel after the 400, but I feel I need to find something in between to improve final finish and shorten buffing time but it does work well. There is a gap between the two, but generally for me, the 400 finish is usually enough for me. I find I'm not going after a polished finish as much as I use to.
Nice catch, yes that looks correct. But having the correct spacers are also the key of getting a good balanced and non wobbly wheel. I have made some for myself out of aluminum with the lathe. Having the stock plastic bushings really does help. I'm sure those can now also be found reasonably. Thanks for the link.
Sorry I'm not around as much as I use to be, I'm sure there's others here who now have more experience with these than me that can give better advice than me. I've been working both on new racing sailboats and high end tube audio projects full time, taking my time away from doing more machine shop and restoration projects.
I'll check back occasionally and hope to see more members post's & Pics of rust removal projects and new tips.
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d42jeep
Well-known member
There is a seller with some of these on eBay for around $70.00 which is a bargain for the 400 discs, which have become my favorite. I stIll use the 220 as well. 
-Don
-Don
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Don: do you use these discs on your hand tools? Any type of product too or just the discs shining up your gems?
d42jeep
Well-known member
I use it every day, particularly on chrome sockets with surface defects. I‘ve posted quite a few examples upthread.
-Don
-Don
If I had to do it over, I might not order the very fine wheel. It is useful for removing some fine finish defects left after using the 400 wheel but only minimally. I haven’t done many soft metals and don’t have any examples to show. If I need to polish items with more serious finish defects, I generally start with the 220 disc and follow up with the 400. I am currently in the market for another 400 disc for my summer home since I currently only have the 220 disc here. I’ll be waiting until I find one at a fairly reasonable price. I have no interest in trying the 50 or 80 grit. macgee is the disc expert, in my opinion.
-Don
d42jeep
Well-known member
I used it on this discolored Millers Falls wood chisel. 
Another before and after wood chisel example.
-Don
Another before and after wood chisel example.
-Don
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