Ohhhh, some people are going to love you for this. Thanks
I forgot to mention, there is very little inside this unit that could rust. Most likely it will gum up. Try putting it into a parts cleaner type solvent. Then dry it up and put some fresh lube on it. I would try this before taking apart.The Yankee drills using a five ratchet selector position have always interested me. How do they work? When I bought a group of Yankee 1555 breast drills, for parts, there was one selector that had obvious damage to the "fingers". Looking online, I could only find warnings that it was difficult to take apart. Decided to try. Figured it out and thought I would share. For the pictures that follow I took a good one apart. Very important to keep things in proper orientation. So in the pictures, the "top" is top when you can read the writing on the shell. I rotated the top to the right in many of the pictures but will refer to either top or bottom. Front has the selector and back is opposite that.
For more information recommend G.O. Leopold's patent #939042 (Nov. 2, 1910). There are other patents, but this one covers most everything.
The selector positions are:
PLAIN
LH RATCHET
RH RATCHET
RH DOUBLE
LOCK
Tip: If moving the selector put your finger into the end and hold up the fingers on the end in the direction you wish to move it. Also, when putting it back into the drill, put the selector halfway between LH Ratchet and RH Ratchet. This will raise all the fingers and allow the idler gears to slip on.
To take apart, lay on bench or put into soft vice with back up. Take a wide flat blade screwdriver and stick it on the piece of metal sticking through. This actually is the key that engages the spindle shaft. With a light mallet, tap the screwdriver until the key moves inward a little bit. It will hit a hard stop, but only needs to clear the thin shell (about .030").
The insides should now be able to slide to either the top or bottom direction. I started with the top. Move just enough to expose the fingers and spring.
Remove the spring and then the two fingers, Put them on a paper and keep them in the same orientation on the paper. This is important.
See which way the fingers are as far as up and down. Now slide the insides to the left end and remove that spring and fingers. Keep them oriented properly.
Now you can slide the rest of it out, but put a finger inside to hold up the selector. Then allow the selector to drop and remove. Put with the springs and fingers keeping its orientation. It must go back in the same direction.
The selector has a spring on it also. A flat strip. Note which way it is oriented (up/down). The fingers all look the same, but one on the bottom is longer. The selector plate has a wider end at the top.
Thats it. Clean it up and put back together. Last thing is to move the key back into its slot.
I used a 5/16 rod and levered it up. Use the spindle itself to verify it's in proper position.
Additional note about the key. It's sort of like a Chinese puzzle. It pushes down to release the shell and once the shell is removed it could be removed but I don't recommend removing it. They used a punch to pinch into it that keeps it somewhat tight. Removing it may loosen it up, which would add wear and tear to the shaft. Here is a picture of both one in and one out.
Youd da man. Thanks.The Yankee drills using a five ratchet selector position have always interested me. How do they work? When I bought a group of Yankee 1555 breast drills, for parts, there was one selector that had obvious damage to the "fingers". Looking online, I could only find warnings that it was difficult to take apart. Decided to try. Figured it out and thought I would share. For the pictures that follow I took a good one apart. Very important to keep things in proper orientation. So in the pictures, the "top" is top when you can read the writing on the shell. I rotated the top to the right in many of the pictures but will refer to either top or bottom. Front has the selector and back is opposite that.
For more information recommend G.O. Leopold's patent #939042 (Nov. 2, 1910). There are other patents, but this one covers most everything.
The selector positions are:
PLAIN
LH RATCHET
RH RATCHET
RH DOUBLE
LOCK
Tip: If moving the selector put your finger into the end and hold up the fingers on the end in the direction you wish to move it. Also, when putting it back into the drill, put the selector halfway between LH Ratchet and RH Ratchet. This will raise all the fingers and allow the idler gears to slip on.
To take apart, lay on bench or put into soft vice with back up. Take a wide flat blade screwdriver and stick it on the piece of metal sticking through. This actually is the key that engages the spindle shaft. With a light mallet, tap the screwdriver until the key moves inward a little bit. It will hit a hard stop, but only needs to clear the thin shell (about .030").
The insides should now be able to slide to either the top or bottom direction. I started with the top. Move just enough to expose the fingers and spring.
Remove the spring and then the two fingers, Put them on a paper and keep them in the same orientation on the paper. This is important.
See which way the fingers are as far as up and down. Now slide the insides to the left end and remove that spring and fingers. Keep them oriented properly.
Now you can slide the rest of it out, but put a finger inside to hold up the selector. Then allow the selector to drop and remove. Put with the springs and fingers keeping its orientation. It must go back in the same direction.
The selector has a spring on it also. A flat strip. Note which way it is oriented (up/down). The fingers all look the same, but one on the bottom is longer. The selector plate has a wider end at the top.
Thats it. Clean it up and put back together. Last thing is to move the key back into its slot.
I used a 5/16 rod and levered it up. Use the spindle itself to verify it's in proper position.
Additional note about the key. It's sort of like a Chinese puzzle. It pushes down to release the shell and once the shell is removed it could be removed but I don't recommend removing it. They used a punch to pinch into it that keeps it somewhat tight. Removing it may loosen it up, which would add wear and tear to the shaft. Here is a picture of both one in and one out.
That is incredible! It must’ve taken a lot of guts to open it up to see how the guts work!The Yankee drills using a five ratchet selector position have always interested me. How do they work? When I bought a group of Yankee 1555 breast drills, for parts, there was one selector that had obvious damage to the "fingers". Looking online, I could only find warnings that it was difficult to take apart. Decided to try. Figured it out and thought I would share. For the pictures that follow I took a good one apart. Very important to keep things in proper orientation. So in the pictures, the "top" is top when you can read the writing on the shell. I rotated the top to the right in many of the pictures but will refer to either top or bottom. Front has the selector and back is opposite that.
For more information recommend G.O. Leopold's patent #939042 (Nov. 2, 1910). There are other patents, but this one covers most everything.
The selector positions are:
PLAIN
LH RATCHET
RH RATCHET
RH DOUBLE
LOCK
Tip: If moving the selector put your finger into the end and hold up the fingers on the end in the direction you wish to move it. Also, when putting it back into the drill, put the selector halfway between LH Ratchet and RH Ratchet. This will raise all the fingers and allow the idler gears to slip on.
To take apart, lay on bench or put into soft vice with back up. Take a wide flat blade screwdriver and stick it on the piece of metal sticking through. This actually is the key that engages the spindle shaft. With a light mallet, tap the screwdriver until the key moves inward a little bit. It will hit a hard stop, but only needs to clear the thin shell (about .030").
The insides should now be able to slide to either the top or bottom direction. I started with the top. Move just enough to expose the fingers and spring.
Remove the spring and then the two fingers, Put them on a paper and keep them in the same orientation on the paper. This is important.
See which way the fingers are as far as up and down. Now slide the insides to the left end and remove that spring and fingers. Keep them oriented properly.
Now you can slide the rest of it out, but put a finger inside to hold up the selector. Then allow the selector to drop and remove. Put with the springs and fingers keeping its orientation. It must go back in the same direction.
The selector has a spring on it also. A flat strip. Note which way it is oriented (up/down). The fingers all look the same, but one on the bottom is longer. The selector plate has a wider end at the top.
Thats it. Clean it up and put back together. Last thing is to move the key back into its slot.
I used a 5/16 rod and levered it up. Use the spindle itself to verify it's in proper position.
Additional note about the key. It's sort of like a Chinese puzzle. It pushes down to release the shell and once the shell is removed it could be removed but I don't recommend removing it. They used a punch to pinch into it that keeps it somewhat tight. Removing it may loosen it up, which would add wear and tear to the shaft. Here is a picture of both one in and one out.
Not really. I have many years' experience working with machines and hand tools. I also have a lot of tools. Probably the biggest problem people have is being in a hurry and not paying attention to the details. It also helped that the one I initially took apart was damaged by a previous owner. So, if I did hurt it, no big loss. As it is, that one had two broken fingers and a mangled spring. It's only good for parts now. Always have a plan A, B and C if possible. Ask, "If I mess it up, how can I fix it"?
Plain acts like a drill with no ratchet. Lock holds the spindle still to allow loosening the chuck easier.
Double Right Hand was always my favorite. No matter which way you spun the crank, it drilled right hand. What genius to design that mechanism, and cram it into that little bitty barrel.
I agree that it is a cool feature. The Millers Falls No. 97 also adds the ability to always drill left hand. With the three-jaw chuck, that allows you to use left-handed drill bits, which are nice when removing broken screws/bolts. Another feature of the 97 is changing the crank handle position so it becomes a long lever. Adds about 4" of leverage. Good for tight areas.
So I had four total Yankee 1555 drills. The one posted earlier is the only complete one. The rest all had issues. All of them had broken teeth on the two idler gears and also the smaller low speed drive gear. Decided to fix up the good parts and sell them for parts or display. I painted the broken gears gold so it would look good as a display drill (man cave). In the auction I clearly stated it was not a usable drill and would likely jam if used for drilling. I also mentioned the custom walnut handles. Maybe someone has a broken frame and want to fix theirs? Tried really hard to give an honest assessment.Finally got the handle taken care of. Used a 3/8" stainless carriage bolt. I needed about 5 1/2" of unthreaded under the square. Ordered some from McMaster, but the only thread length they list is minimum threaded. Ordered some long ones and they were all threaded down to about 3" from the square. No good. Finally found some on E-Bay that were 7 1/2" long. Asked, and they verified there was 5 1/2" unthreaded. Got them and here is the process I used. First cut the threaded portion off and chamfered the end.
Next was threading. I set the vice up level (it rotates) and then used a square on the bolt. That would make it perpendicular.
Next was threading. I use a round bubble level with a magnet on the back. Stuck that to the die and held it level while threading for about the first 1/2"
After threading I check the length with the jam nut. I needed two extra turns (1/8" with a 3/8-16 die).
Then I removed the square using a file and 1" belt sander. Thats for the crank handle side. The auxiliary handle on the left of this drill uses a 3/8"-16 right hand thread and the square is left on. It goes into a square mortice hole. No screwdriver slot needed.
Next, I cut a screwdriver slot in the head using a Starrett screw slotting blade in my hacksaw (#249A-2, discontinued). Polished the whole bolt. This blade cuts about a 0.050" wide slot.
Comparing the Starrett screw slot blade (top) to a normal blade (bottom)
Then I made a walnut handle with a stainless ferrule. Jam nut holds it all tight. Note: Left-handed bolt and jam nut were used to prevent loosening. A right-handed bolt would want to unscrew on the crank side.
Last few days I've been working on an unusual 2-speed Aurowa hand drill. Searching I have not found this version anywhere.
Here is an ad (they said from the 1950's?) that shows a similar one. Biggest differences are the breast plate and the way the crank handle attaches. The one in the ad has a rod type breastplate and the crank handle goes onto rods sticking out and a thumbscrew secures it to the flats. There is also a slot to hold the spindle from rotating. Searches show most have a round rod with just one flat for the crank handle.
On mine the handle can fold over the main case with the use of a knurled knob on a threaded post sticking out. The crank handle uses a 10mm hex with a spring loaded bearing to hold it in place. It inserts into one of the hex holes that are inside shafts that go through the gears. You change speeds by pulling the handle off and putting into a different hole.
Below is the crank handle and a replacement auxiliary handle I made.
Inside you can see the gears. I need to put grease on when done. Note the ratios are 1:2 and 1:4 (The crank is the first number).
The chuck is a design first used by Goodell Brothers. Three jaws, about 3/8", springs exposed between the jaws. Spindle has 12 bearings.
Another interesting thing is on each side of the fold up handle it is marked D.R.G.M. which is a German patent. No numbers are on the drill. No "Made in Germany" either, which was put into law in 1930.
Because of all the details, I think this was made by the manufacturer and not modified later. Could have been produced and not imported but brought over by a worker. Any ideas?
Good bookmark for your references library. 
Thank you so much for the ad and translation. Did not expect it to be so old.
Translated ;
29/9 1919. Alb. Urbahn & Comp., Remscheid-Güldenwerth. 18/12 1919.
RO &0 WA
Business operations: Manufacture, import and export of tools and machines for metal and woodworking, as well as accessories. Goods: sealing and padding materials, thermal insulation and insulating materials, asbestos products, wool; Iron, steel, copper and other metals, raw or partially processed, tools for metal and woodworking, in particular files, hammers, anvils, vices, drills, planes, milling cutters, turning tools, machine tools and accessories, machine casting, transmissions , drive belts made of leather, Hans, metal, paper; Lubricants, fats and oils other than those intended for food
I usually spray it down w WD-40, wipe it down til dry, while exercising it.
While oils can somewhat break down rust, it's easier to use something like PB Blaster. Soak it and let it sit for a while. Then wipe down and re-lube.Picked up this Craftsman push drill for $1. Seems to be several bits in the handle. Question: what can i soak it in to loosen the innards? It’s really stiff, doesn’t want to move. Evaporust is not a lube. Don’t really want to use motor oil. ATF?
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Heres a link to the latest update. Click on the "Eric Brown's Augermaker list". Still have a lot to put in.
Tapping and a screw might work, but it needs to be left hand threaded or it will unscrew during use. Does the top cap have a shoulder inside it? Another option for closing the top would be a push in type cap. If this is all too much for you, I will fix it and only charge shipping. I have left-handed taps and dies. Might be able to thread the stub.
